Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 28, 2016 10:53PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 92 |
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UltiFix
Im planning on installing auto level with this proximity switch, below I have made a list of everything I need to do, anything else?
Also since im moving the x endstop to left do I need to change anything in the firmware?
- Upgrade to therippa's firmware
- Move X endstop to left and change the setting's from max to min in rep host
- Change the code in configuration.h that the wiki says to
- Wire it up to the ramps, no idea how to... Help?
#define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 11:12AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 16 |
Thanks. I changed the E steps per millimeter to be 101 after doing 2 calibration tests of extruding 100mm of filament. I now have my extrusion multiplier at 1.Quote
Mach
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ihaveworms
Where in the configuration do you set steps per millimeter?Quote
Mach
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ihaveworms
What kind of extrusion multiplier are you all using? I am using 0.7 right now that seems really low, almost like I am doing something wrong.
Did you calibrate your extruders steps/mm?
"#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT". The parameters are X, Y, Z, E from left to right.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 03:34PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 92 |
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true;For a normally open switch, this would be set to false. For a normally closed switch (like the ones shipped with the printer, and the sensor I have) this would be set to true.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 03:46PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 22 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 04:50PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 85 |
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thebabymaker
I use this same sensor (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX DC 6-36V NPN 3-wire 8mm Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch Detector) and did not need to use a voltage divider. I have it plugged into my 12V power supply with my extruder fan and LEDs (as you have done), signal and ground into Z-stop input. From what I have been told, NPN sensors do not need a voltage divider - and it works as intended for me with this setup. I think the reason being that for NPN sensors do not have any voltage going back to the board on the signal wire.. i'm not an expert so don't hold me to this
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 04:59PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 22 |
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jhitesma
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thebabymaker
I use this same sensor (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX DC 6-36V NPN 3-wire 8mm Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch Detector) and did not need to use a voltage divider. I have it plugged into my 12V power supply with my extruder fan and LEDs (as you have done), signal and ground into Z-stop input. From what I have been told, NPN sensors do not need a voltage divider - and it works as intended for me with this setup. I think the reason being that for NPN sensors do not have any voltage going back to the board on the signal wire.. i'm not an expert so don't hold me to this
You may want to check that. I'm using the same sensor (mine is blue but it's the same model number and specs) and was able to run it off 5v...but not reliably. It would work sometimes and not at all at others. So I switched to 12v. But before I did I checked it with a volt meter and confirmed that it IS 12v coming off it. So you may be on borrowed time and just lucky that your arduino hasn't fried yet.
Adding the two resistors to drop the voltage is quick and easy and a lot cheaper than replacing arduino's
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 05:03PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 22 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 07:15PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 1 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 08:45PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 92 |
Quote
thebabymaker
Do you have a link to the sensor you bought? LJ18A3-8-Z/BY is blue and is a pnp sensor that would need a voltage divider, the BX version is orange and is NPN which does not need a voltage divider.
EDIT: Actually i see a blue version of the BX too. lol i dont know anymore
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mickeypop Reply 4 months ago
I have seen several comments on a voltage divider and the hookup. (schematic below)
ABSOLUTELY, you do need the divider to protect the micro input pin.
Though 15K and 10K are most often noted, any pair where one is 1.5 times higher and both range between say 7K and 25K should work.
Some have noted their Z output from the divider was around 6V and still work.
The length of the wire and connection resistance may be the only things preventing the micro pin from damage.
This will likely shorten the life of the arduino. Atmel spec on the micro allow .3 volt higher max than the supply(5v).
If the output is around 6V a diode in series will steal .7 volt and greatly extend the arduino life. Alternatively, a 1.2K to 2K instead of the diode should also work.
Any voltage out between 3.3 and 5 volts will be best for the micro to detect it and safe from pin damage.
-------
Separately, several have mentioned capacitive sensors. I strongly suggest you stay away from them and only use inductive or the micro switch idea some have used.
Like standing close to a radio and the reception changes. The sensing distance is not constant if you are move around the printer the sensing distance will change too.
Electronics Engineer
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 08:51PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 130 |
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marlonaraujo85
someone would have the assembly drawing to bed this printer?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 08:53PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 22 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 09:34PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 93 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 10:57PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 85 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 11:30PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 314 |
This is the one I got, here is the datasheet for it..Quote
Bert3D
Speaking in general, and not specifically about proximity sensors, the reason some kinds of sensors don't absolutely require the drop down, is that they use a "pull down" approach to the output. They allow the pull-up resistors on the Arduino (or whatever else they are plugged into) to provide the voltage to bring the input to a "1" or "on" status, with the output from the sensor "floating" in a passive state, essentially providing no signal, then when they are active, they pull the output to 0 volts, grounding it, which turns it off or "0". This is called the sensor "sinking", or grounding out, the current.
Not all sensors work this way, and I cannot speak to these, since I don't have either part. I'm just pointing out that it is possible that some sensors can be ok.
However, if the sensor is a "pull up" type, it pulls the output up to voltage. In that case, if it is a 12 volt part, it will try to pull it up to 12v by supplying 12v on the output, which would definitely fry the Arduino. In this case the sensor is sourcing the current, which means providing the voltage.
Also, just because a sensor is PNP or NPN doesn't guarantee there are no internal pull-up resistors in it, so you can't always rely on that alone. You really need to read the datasheet for the specific part to know for certain. Most NPN sensors don't have internal pull up resistors, but a few do.
Ok, I pulled up the datasheet for these parts. The BX and BY are both NO (Normally Open). The BX is an NPN, and the BY is a PNP. The PNP will require the voltage divider. The NPN appears to have no internal pull up, so you should be ok without the voltage divider on that one.
And I apologize for the electronics lesson. I know nobody was asking for one, and I really didn't intend to turn this into one.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 11:38PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 93 |
Quote
UltiFix
This is the one I got, here is the datasheet for it..Quote
Bert3D
Speaking in general, and not specifically about proximity sensors, the reason some kinds of sensors don't absolutely require the drop down, is that they use a "pull down" approach to the output. They allow the pull-up resistors on the Arduino (or whatever else they are plugged into) to provide the voltage to bring the input to a "1" or "on" status, with the output from the sensor "floating" in a passive state, essentially providing no signal, then when they are active, they pull the output to 0 volts, grounding it, which turns it off or "0". This is called the sensor "sinking", or grounding out, the current.
Not all sensors work this way, and I cannot speak to these, since I don't have either part. I'm just pointing out that it is possible that some sensors can be ok.
However, if the sensor is a "pull up" type, it pulls the output up to voltage. In that case, if it is a 12 volt part, it will try to pull it up to 12v by supplying 12v on the output, which would definitely fry the Arduino. In this case the sensor is sourcing the current, which means providing the voltage.
Also, just because a sensor is PNP or NPN doesn't guarantee there are no internal pull-up resistors in it, so you can't always rely on that alone. You really need to read the datasheet for the specific part to know for certain. Most NPN sensors don't have internal pull up resistors, but a few do.
Ok, I pulled up the datasheet for these parts. The BX and BY are both NO (Normally Open). The BX is an NPN, and the BY is a PNP. The PNP will require the voltage divider. The NPN appears to have no internal pull up, so you should be ok without the voltage divider on that one.
And I apologize for the electronics lesson. I know nobody was asking for one, and I really didn't intend to turn this into one.
[industrial.omron.com.br]
The datasheet says its a npn-no so im correct in thinking I don't need a resister right? And it's always closed right? (Outputting no voltage)
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 29, 2016 11:41PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 314 |
Your right, I missed that.Quote
Bert3D
Quote
UltiFix
This is the one I got, here is the datasheet for it..Quote
Bert3D
Speaking in general, and not specifically about proximity sensors, the reason some kinds of sensors don't absolutely require the drop down, is that they use a "pull down" approach to the output. They allow the pull-up resistors on the Arduino (or whatever else they are plugged into) to provide the voltage to bring the input to a "1" or "on" status, with the output from the sensor "floating" in a passive state, essentially providing no signal, then when they are active, they pull the output to 0 volts, grounding it, which turns it off or "0". This is called the sensor "sinking", or grounding out, the current.
Not all sensors work this way, and I cannot speak to these, since I don't have either part. I'm just pointing out that it is possible that some sensors can be ok.
However, if the sensor is a "pull up" type, it pulls the output up to voltage. In that case, if it is a 12 volt part, it will try to pull it up to 12v by supplying 12v on the output, which would definitely fry the Arduino. In this case the sensor is sourcing the current, which means providing the voltage.
Also, just because a sensor is PNP or NPN doesn't guarantee there are no internal pull-up resistors in it, so you can't always rely on that alone. You really need to read the datasheet for the specific part to know for certain. Most NPN sensors don't have internal pull up resistors, but a few do.
Ok, I pulled up the datasheet for these parts. The BX and BY are both NO (Normally Open). The BX is an NPN, and the BY is a PNP. The PNP will require the voltage divider. The NPN appears to have no internal pull up, so you should be ok without the voltage divider on that one.
And I apologize for the electronics lesson. I know nobody was asking for one, and I really didn't intend to turn this into one.
[industrial.omron.com.br]
The datasheet says its a npn-no so im correct in thinking I don't need a resister right? And it's always closed right? (Outputting no voltage)
The datasheet says it includes a pull up resistor, so you will probably need the resistors to drop the voltage with that one.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 05:29AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 22 |
Quote
Bert3D
Speaking in general, and not specifically about proximity sensors, the reason some kinds of sensors don't absolutely require the drop down, is that they use a "pull down" approach to the output. They allow the pull-up resistors on the Arduino (or whatever else they are plugged into) to provide the voltage to bring the input to a "1" or "on" status, with the output from the sensor "floating" in a passive state, essentially providing no signal, then when they are active, they pull the output to 0 volts, grounding it, which turns it off or "0". This is called the sensor "sinking", or grounding out, the current.
Not all sensors work this way, and I cannot speak to these, since I don't have either part. I'm just pointing out that it is possible that some sensors can be ok.
However, if the sensor is a "pull up" type, it pulls the output up to voltage. In that case, if it is a 12 volt part, it will try to pull it up to 12v by supplying 12v on the output, which would definitely fry the Arduino. In this case the sensor is sourcing the current, which means providing the voltage.
Also, just because a sensor is PNP or NPN doesn't guarantee there are no internal pull-up resistors in it, so you can't always rely on that alone. You really need to read the datasheet for the specific part to know for certain. Most NPN sensors don't have internal pull up resistors, but a few do.
Ok, I pulled up the datasheet for these parts. The BX and BY are both NO (Normally Open). The BX is an NPN, and the BY is a PNP. The PNP will require the voltage divider. The NPN appears to have no internal pull up, so you should be ok without the voltage divider on that one.
And I apologize for the electronics lesson. I know nobody was asking for one, and I really didn't intend to turn this into one.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 10:04AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 130 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 11:04AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 4 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 11:07AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 32 |
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flatlander
I had an itch caused by not attaching the lower bolts to the bottom of the motor mounts...
[attachment 73640 NEMA17motormountslotL.jpg]
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 06:30PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 130 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 07:25PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 171 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 07:30PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 367 |
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markts
I have the E3d V6 Lite installed and it seems to be printing well. I still get some clicking/missing from the extruder. I remember I had to play with temperatures with the stock hotend, so I probably have to do that again (now that I'm printing at 195 instead of 175).
I didn't replace the gear that grabs the filament. They seemed to be the same size, and I thought, "Why take the chance of messing something up?" Is there a difference? I'm also planning to calibrate the extruder just in case anything's changed.
Last issue - the new fan from E3D is LOUD. It also must be blowing more air despite its smaller size. When I changed the firmware to switch thermistor values, I opted to enable "thermal runaway protection." Well, with the new 30mm fan along with the fan duct on the 40mm, it's blowing so much air that it's cooling the bed off, so the code thinks the thermistor is broken -> thermal runaway. I printed a small flat piece to serve as a wind deflector on the back side of the heat sink just to keep the breeze off the bed. Anyone else had this problem? I'm tempted to print another fan duct and ditch the loud fan!
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 07:34PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 13 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 09:56PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 171 |
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animoose
Quote
markts
I have the E3d V6 Lite installed and it seems to be printing well. I still get some clicking/missing from the extruder. I remember I had to play with temperatures with the stock hotend, so I probably have to do that again (now that I'm printing at 195 instead of 175).
I didn't replace the gear that grabs the filament. They seemed to be the same size, and I thought, "Why take the chance of messing something up?" Is there a difference? I'm also planning to calibrate the extruder just in case anything's changed.
Last issue - the new fan from E3D is LOUD. It also must be blowing more air despite its smaller size. When I changed the firmware to switch thermistor values, I opted to enable "thermal runaway protection." Well, with the new 30mm fan along with the fan duct on the 40mm, it's blowing so much air that it's cooling the bed off, so the code thinks the thermistor is broken -> thermal runaway. I printed a small flat piece to serve as a wind deflector on the back side of the heat sink just to keep the breeze off the bed. Anyone else had this problem? I'm tempted to print another fan duct and ditch the loud fan!
That E3d fan drove me mad, and I printed a duct for the 40mm fan which splits the air between the heatsink and the bed. It's a modified version of this: [www.thingiverse.com]. It seems to work well, with the only issue being that cheap fans don't always like to work except when they are vertical, and so after a while the fan bearings got noisy and I had to replace it. I didn't find any need to replace the gear either, and it has worked fine.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 10:25PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
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markts
Quote
animoose
Quote
markts
I have the E3d V6 Lite installed and it seems to be printing well. I still get some clicking/missing from the extruder. I remember I had to play with temperatures with the stock hotend, so I probably have to do that again (now that I'm printing at 195 instead of 175).
I didn't replace the gear that grabs the filament. They seemed to be the same size, and I thought, "Why take the chance of messing something up?" Is there a difference? I'm also planning to calibrate the extruder just in case anything's changed.
Last issue - the new fan from E3D is LOUD. It also must be blowing more air despite its smaller size. When I changed the firmware to switch thermistor values, I opted to enable "thermal runaway protection." Well, with the new 30mm fan along with the fan duct on the 40mm, it's blowing so much air that it's cooling the bed off, so the code thinks the thermistor is broken -> thermal runaway. I printed a small flat piece to serve as a wind deflector on the back side of the heat sink just to keep the breeze off the bed. Anyone else had this problem? I'm tempted to print another fan duct and ditch the loud fan!
That E3d fan drove me mad, and I printed a duct for the 40mm fan which splits the air between the heatsink and the bed. It's a modified version of this: [www.thingiverse.com]. It seems to work well, with the only issue being that cheap fans don't always like to work except when they are vertical, and so after a while the fan bearings got noisy and I had to replace it. I didn't find any need to replace the gear either, and it has worked fine.
Great, thanks for the info. I'd like to keep the possibility of printing ABS so I was hesitant to use that shroud. Hmm, maybe it needs a louver ....
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 01, 2016 10:44PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 541 |
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stanger2k
So I've bought a bltouch and I already have therippa's code, my x stop is on the left and I'm planning to cut a usb cable and power it from a powered hub that I'll also will run octopi from. What I'm having problems understanding is what is the process of setting the correct needle height? With the manual control not normally working to set the extruder higher if I need to?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 02, 2016 01:19AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 314 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 02, 2016 08:13AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 268 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 02, 2016 08:55AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 13 |
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tjnamtiw
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stanger2k
So I've bought a bltouch and I already have therippa's code, my x stop is on the left and I'm planning to cut a usb cable and power it from a powered hub that I'll also will run octopi from. What I'm having problems understanding is what is the process of setting the correct needle height? With the manual control not normally working to set the extruder higher if I need to?
To be honest, I don't know what you are asking. You MOUNT the BLTOUCH so that when the pin is all the way up, it is HIGHER than the nozzle and when it is DOWN, it is lower than the nozzle. You can adjust the height somewhat with the set screw in the top but that is not the preferred way because if you go too far, then you lose magnetic force to pull the pin up. I have no idea what you mean by "with the manual control not normally working to set the extruder higher if I need to?"
You say you are going to power the BLTOUCH with the USB CABLE from a powered hub but you do realize that you have to send that power to a spare set of servo pins on the RAMPS board, right? AND you have to remove the jumper that normally sends power to the pins, right?
Maybe you need to read [www.antclabs.com]