Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)
Posted by Dan_FolgerTech
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 17, 2016 02:28AM |
Yeah I have one of those metal ones on my machine right now. I do like the higher tension it gives on the idler, that cleaned up a pattern I was seeing in my prints. But my stepper has been running about 10-15 degrees hotter since the change and started skipping. I initially thought it was due to the aluminum extruder letting more hot end heat get into the stepper...but now I think it's the extra tension making the stepper work harder - I turned up the current on my stepper driver a bit (doing the math I'm now over the 0.4a the stepper is rated for...but still under 0.5a so not much over) and even though I'm apparently over the current limit the stepper is running cooler and not skipping steps anymore so I'm going with it...close to 30 hours of printing at that setting so far and still working great.)
I also had some issues with the idler not lining up with the entrance to the heat break and with the tensioner not moving well if I tightened the screw it mounts with enough that I didn't worry about the screw falling out. I solved both problems by putting a 3mm washer between the tensioner and the body of the extruder with a dab of super lube grease on it:
To try and stop heat from the hot end getting into the stepper I added a gasket cut from some high temp gasket material I picked up for a few bucks at tractor supply for another project and had plenty of extra on hand:
The gasket didn't really help much, but the washer got the idler lined up with the heat break much better so it's much easier to load filament now and it has a straight path through the extruder - you can see the gasket and the washer here if you look closely:
But my e3d v6 (full all metal version since I want to try nylon) should be here tomorrow so I've got this printing right now: [www.thingiverse.com] It should be done in about half an hour. Not sure how I'll mount my inductive sensor though...may have to rig something up. I'm a little worried about the stepper hitting the top bar and costing me some Z...but we'll just have to see how that goes. I do like that the stepper is exposed so I can put the stock heat sink on the back of it to help cool it some. I want to do the compact geared extruder: [www.thingiverse.com] but that will take a bit more work to collect the vitamins for since I'll have to make a hobbed bolt so won't tackle that until this weekend at the earliest.
I may just go with animoose's mount and the stock extruder - I'm starting to think the issues I had with the stock extruder may be more related to stepper current than they were tension. I printed his mount and this remix: [www.thingiverse.com] to fit my inductive sensor. So I should have two options to try tomorrow. Doubt I'll get the e3d on and printing tomorrow but at least I'll have a few extruders to experiment with.
I also had some issues with the idler not lining up with the entrance to the heat break and with the tensioner not moving well if I tightened the screw it mounts with enough that I didn't worry about the screw falling out. I solved both problems by putting a 3mm washer between the tensioner and the body of the extruder with a dab of super lube grease on it:
To try and stop heat from the hot end getting into the stepper I added a gasket cut from some high temp gasket material I picked up for a few bucks at tractor supply for another project and had plenty of extra on hand:
The gasket didn't really help much, but the washer got the idler lined up with the heat break much better so it's much easier to load filament now and it has a straight path through the extruder - you can see the gasket and the washer here if you look closely:
But my e3d v6 (full all metal version since I want to try nylon) should be here tomorrow so I've got this printing right now: [www.thingiverse.com] It should be done in about half an hour. Not sure how I'll mount my inductive sensor though...may have to rig something up. I'm a little worried about the stepper hitting the top bar and costing me some Z...but we'll just have to see how that goes. I do like that the stepper is exposed so I can put the stock heat sink on the back of it to help cool it some. I want to do the compact geared extruder: [www.thingiverse.com] but that will take a bit more work to collect the vitamins for since I'll have to make a hobbed bolt so won't tackle that until this weekend at the earliest.
I may just go with animoose's mount and the stock extruder - I'm starting to think the issues I had with the stock extruder may be more related to stepper current than they were tension. I printed his mount and this remix: [www.thingiverse.com] to fit my inductive sensor. So I should have two options to try tomorrow. Doubt I'll get the e3d on and printing tomorrow but at least I'll have a few extruders to experiment with.
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 17, 2016 08:13AM |
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marc2912
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flatlander
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marc2912
I noticed someone else mention it on here. I have an E3D with the stock extruder. I had to remove the aluminum block that sits under the extruder that the heat block screws into. I was going to upgrade my extruder to this from ebay but the block isn't removable and I won't be able to attach the hotend. What are people running with an E3D that is NOT a bowden extruder.
I purchased this on a recommendation from our Folger Tech thread here. I ran into the same problem, the hotend tube does screw into the bottom of this device and it probably would feed filament into the hotend. There were threads on the in-feed;I would drill out and the countersink that hole.It looked like it could transfer heat to the extruder stepper. It's for another day when I feel more adventurous. It's buyers remorse with a lowercase b. I did print out the instructions and folded them into the box.
It does say this, "Reduce the wiredrawing problem when working for remote feeding." Now that would make sense if it was a welder, but I'm not feeding any wire into my 3d printer.
Thanks with a stock hot end with an e3d it's even more pain as I'd have to mill part of the lower section away and find a way to fasten the hot end. Obviously not happening hence why I'm looking for people direct feeding e3d.
Sleeping on this I have a better solution. You need something to get the filament into the roller and drive-gear. I think a push-to-connect-fitting would center the filament and eliminate the need to drill:
[folgertech.com]
Is the problem that the top of the E3D doesn't have M6 threads? I'll bet that there is a female/female M6 to xxM fitting. I'm working on getting a direct feed on top of a v-rail,I think your E3D is the solution.
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 17, 2016 08:27AM |
Mine came with threads on top not the fine little hole you have...hence the need for a fitting up top.
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 17, 2016 05:34PM |
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SteveRoy
From what I understand the slicers don't take acceleration/deceleration into account when estimating the times.
I usually use [gcode.ws] for a better estimate
That would explain why rep-server does a better job at estimating than slic3r then.
Mailman showed up with not only my e3d today but also the spare stepper I ordered in case I burn my extruder out - so tonight I get to build up a new print head without having to take parts off my printer
Should be a fun evening...assuming I find all the bits I need at the hardware store after work!
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Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 18, 2016 03:02PM |
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jag
My FolgerTech 2020 i3 printer was working great except for 2 issues. Prints were 4% short on the Z-axis, and on some prints it was clear that filament volume was too low. I fixed both my changing DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT in configuration.h
Here's my question: Why does the firmware on the FolgerTech Google drive have these settings: {80,80,3840,90} ? My printer works much better with what seems to be 'normal' settings {80,80,4000,100} for this printer design.
I have this resolved, just curious about the settings published on the Google Drive
Yea, I wish someone would do a little house keeping. I had the printer a week before I saw the wiki. This is the first I have seen the link you have. My link is [drive.google.com] It looks similar to yours, but not quite right. Hum?
My thought is you want the firmware settings to allow the machine to mechanically move by the amount the you tell it to move in g-code. Print size may be the result of shrinkage and should be accounted for by slightly scaling the objects. Am I wrong about the basic method for tuning our printers? Not that I haven't fiddled with the extrusion multiplier, when I probably should look at the firmware figures
On a slight tangent, do you draw your objects to scale and then account for shrinkage at time of printing, by scaling? I see about 1-2% shrinkage.
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