Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

Quote
animoose
Check in case the gear on the extruder is slipping. Sometimes the grub screws can work loose.
Check whether the V-grooved bearing in the extruder is rotating freely. These are quite cheap bearings and can wear out.
Check whether the nozzle is blocked (partly in your case as some filament is getting through). This is a bit harder to see directly, but maybe you can drive some filament through by hand. If you have some fine stiff wire such as welding wire or a guitar string, you may be able to run it through, but be careful to avoid damaging the liner.

Awesome, thank you very much, I will look into all that.

The 156 pages of this thread make me order it as my first 3d Printer

It should arrive next week, hopping that custom fees - I'm in Canada - won't be too much (not idea how much that will be ).

I'm not afraid to tinkle to make it works the right way.

Thanks to [folgertech.wikia.com] it looks like a good start.
There is also some nice stuff here: [www.reddit.com]

But I still have one quesiton:

Quote

We need to address the X-endstop problems here, and probably recommend putting it on the left

Is there some details about the left mount of this endstop, I would prefer to mount everything the right way (then print parts to upgrade it).

I also starts to dig around OctoPi that looks gorgeous (and as the printer will be in the garage downstairs, its a must have to check the printing progress IMO).

I hope my kit will arrive with all the pieces and in good shape!

Quote
DaveA
BLTouch Users:

Has anyone else had an issue where the pin will remain retracted after a print is finished and the printer is turned off over night? I've had this happen several times and if I forget about pulling down on the pin the next G28 will crash the nozzle into the glass. I've cleaned the pin several times but I really assume the issue is inside the touch. Once I pull the pin down first thing in the morning it seems OK for the rest of the day so I can't make it happen on demand. Does the hex adjust on the top have any relation to this issue?

Don't mess with the hex adjust. Just go into your Starting GCode in your slicer and put the following at the very beginning and it will reset any alarms and put the pin in the proper position.>>>

M280 P0 S160
G4 P5000 : wait for alarm reset to clear
M280 P0 S90 ;pin up

If you are using SLIC3R, you only have to do it once. For Cura, you have to put it in each version of the print setting that you created.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
Cyril
The 156 pages of this thread make me order it as my first 3d Printer

It should arrive next week, hopping that custom fees - I'm in Canada - won't be too much (not idea how much that will be ).

I'm not afraid to tinkle to make it works the right way.

Thanks to [folgertech.wikia.com] it looks like a good start.
There is also some nice stuff here: [www.reddit.com]

But I still have one quesiton:

Quote

We need to address the X-endstop problems here, and probably recommend putting it on the left

Is there some details about the left mount of this endstop, I would prefer to mount everything the right way (then print parts to upgrade it).

I also starts to dig around OctoPi that looks gorgeous (and as the printer will be in the garage downstairs, its a must have to check the printing progress IMO).

I hope my kit will arrive with all the pieces and in good shape!

If you use the google docs build guide linked in the wiki (alongside the original guide or Cyberkni guide) that will tell you to mount the x endstop on the left hand side of the printer instead of the right hand side like in the FolgerTech guide (so it's a 'min' endstop (same as Y and Z) and not a 'max' endstop). You will also need to connect it to the RAMPS board one set of pins over from what the original guide says. This will make a lot more sense when you actually get to this stage during the build procedure. Also make sure to use therippa's Marlin firmware instead of the one FolgerTech provide. You'll also need to change a line in one of the Marlin files. If you go to therippa's github to download his Marlin version you will see the info at the top of the page.

Hope this helps

Quote
Boffster

If you use the google docs build guide linked in the wiki (alongside the original guide or Cyberkni guide) that will tell you to mount the x endstop on the left hand side of the printer instead of the right hand side like in the FolgerTech guide (so it's a 'min' endstop (same as Y and Z) and not a 'max' endstop). You will also need to connect it to the RAMPS board one set of pins over from what the original guide says. This will make a lot more sense when you actually get to this stage during the build procedure. Also make sure to use therippa's Marlin firmware instead of the one FolgerTech provide. You'll also need to change a line in one of the Marlin files. If you go to therippa's github to download his Marlin version you will see the info at the top of the page.

Hope this helps

It now makes sense to me. Btw [docs.google.com] doesn't have any pictures on it, so kind of hard to understand for now without the kit ;p

Hi all.

I read a few pages and did a few forum searches (would really help to search inside specific topics) but I can't find if this has been asked before. I just finished assembling the basic structure (next step would be soldering the heated bed) and I'm feeling a little unsure about the position of the SK8s specifically. The rods and aluminum bed are already in place, should I use that to eye their right position? The manual in more than one stance says "this will be adjusted later" and never really does, from what I saw ahead. I would really appreciate precise measurements of the pieces' positions. The only time there was one it was ill defined; "the vertical 2020s' back have to be 90 mm from the back of the printer." If I use the actual back of the printer it gets way too far when comparing to the pictures, so it means 90 of space between this 2020 and the back 2020.

Also the official documentation come with a revision A and we can also find a revision B... Does the latest kit are revision B? What are the differences?

Thanks

Quote
DaveA
BLTouch Users:

Has anyone else had an issue where the pin will remain retracted after a print is finished and the printer is turned off over night? I've had this happen several times and if I forget about pulling down on the pin the next G28 will crash the nozzle into the glass. I've cleaned the pin several times but I really assume the issue is inside the touch. Once I pull the pin down first thing in the morning it seems OK for the rest of the day so I can't make it happen on demand. Does the hex adjust on the top have any relation to this issue?

If you have cranked it up too high, that can cause the problem, but if it is set like it came, that shouldn't be an issue. It can also happen if you spray your bed with hairspray and get some on the pin, or if the BLTouch sets at an angle, instead of being perfectly vertical.

If you change the adjustment of the hex nut at the top, you will have to readjust your Z probe offset setting.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

My Thingiverse Designs

My Folgertech 2020 is in the mail now!

This is my 3rd printer (Formlabs Form2 and Velleman K8200), so the pressure isn't really on for building it fast. I know that I'm going to want to upgrade to the 200x300mm bed... Has anyone done that? Any gotchas to worry about?

I've got a shopping list of upgrade parts to print (Z risers being #1). Any other must have on day one things I might have missed in this epic thread?

Quote
diegzumillo
Hi all.

I read a few pages and did a few forum searches (would really help to search inside specific topics) but I can't find if this has been asked before. I just finished assembling the basic structure (next step would be soldering the heated bed) and I'm feeling a little unsure about the position of the SK8s specifically. The rods and aluminum bed are already in place, should I use that to eye their right position? The manual in more than one stance says "this will be adjusted later" and never really does, from what I saw ahead. I would really appreciate precise measurements of the pieces' positions. The only time there was one it was ill defined; "the vertical 2020s' back have to be 90 mm from the back of the printer." If I use the actual back of the printer it gets way too far when comparing to the pictures, so it means 90 of space between this 2020 and the back 2020.

I would shoot for smooth movement of the y-axis bed, centering the SK8s the best you can. As you print calibration "squares" you will dial in the squareness of your machine. I don't think any of the corner brackets are all that precise. It's going to take some fiddling. Don't get too hung up on it yet. Have fun!

Calibrate the x and y squareness with something like the following:
[www.thingiverse.com]

Quote
diegzumillo
Hi all.

I read a few pages and did a few forum searches (would really help to search inside specific topics) but I can't find if this has been asked before. I just finished assembling the basic structure (next step would be soldering the heated bed) and I'm feeling a little unsure about the position of the SK8s specifically. The rods and aluminum bed are already in place, should I use that to eye their right position? The manual in more than one stance says "this will be adjusted later" and never really does, from what I saw ahead. I would really appreciate precise measurements of the pieces' positions. The only time there was one it was ill defined; "the vertical 2020s' back have to be 90 mm from the back of the printer." If I use the actual back of the printer it gets way too far when comparing to the pictures, so it means 90 of space between this 2020 and the back 2020.

I am far from an expert because I am just building mine now, and that is the step I did tonight and am real happy with how it came out. With all of the SK8s loose I moved the bed to one end and took a combination square and adjust the ruler to make sure the SK8s were the same distance from both sides, and this also has the assembly centered. I then too the combination square and set the SK8s on the back to match. When finished with just a small tilt the bed will slide both ways real easy.

I hit a problem in the next step, when I started to put a screw through the acrylic rod keepers it cracked on the first screw. I am going to get a 4mm drill tomorrow morning and open the holes before I try putting any more screws through. If this is the biggest problem I have I will be happy.

Going through the instructions I notice some stuff:

When mounting the upper frame : [github.com], we have to later remove some screws to place the SHF8UU Clamp [github.com]. I think we can do that in the first place, and make the upper frame alignment once for good.

Same thing with Aluminum heat bed plate [github.com], I think we can attach the LM8UU Bearings under the place and them just slide the all thing when we are attaching the rails [github.com]

Those are tiny things but I think this could make it easier and quicker.

What do you think about?

Quote
Cyril
Going through the instructions I notice some stuff:

......

Same thing with Aluminum heat bed plate [github.com], I think we can attach the LM8UU Bearings under the place and them just slide the all thing when we are attaching the rails [github.com]

Those are tiny things but I think this could make it easier and quicker.

What do you think about?

What I did was set up the chrome rails as the instructions said. Then when installing the heat bed I took the chrome rails off the frame and put the bearings into the holders. Then after finishing that I put the chrome rails back onto the frame and it was easy to do it that way. I then aligned everything as described in the previous post.

Hi all again

I was putting the end stops now and noticed something strange. I moved the plate all the way back to see where the nozzle meets the front of the plate and to position the end stop, then noticed It's actually hitting the y motor wires first. To me that indicates I have my whole vertical structure too far back but I measured again and it's the indicated 90 mm. Comparing with the photos though it looks different. My power supply aligns almost perfectly with the back of the printer and the manual has it a few inches before.

Right now the nozzle can only get as close as 50 mm to the front of the heated plate before the plate cuts the motor wires. Should I move the whole thing forward or does that sounds about right? Also, I can almost press the motor wires down to avoid the plate but it's a very uncomfortable bend, it's not going to last very long before the wires break.

edit: For now I just rotated the motor so the wires come through the front. Through the back would be ideal but it nags on the SK8. Through the front it seems to be manageable, doesn't hit anything and the wires can be kept under control with some clever zip ties.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/23/2016 07:02PM by diegzumillo.

Quote
diegzumillo
edit: For now I just rotated the motor so the wires come through the front.

That's the way I did it too. I also changed the stepper bracket to the opposite side, compared to the build photos.

Quote
flatlander

Quote
diegzumillo
edit: For now I just rotated the motor so the wires come through the front.

That's the way I did it too. I also changed the stepper bracket to the opposite side, compared to the build photos.

Yep, I did it that way too. I have the motor shaft pointing right, with the wires facing forward:

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
DaveA
BLTouch Users:

Has anyone else had an issue where the pin will remain retracted after a print is finished and the printer is turned off over night? I've had this happen several times and if I forget about pulling down on the pin the next G28 will crash the nozzle into the glass. I've cleaned the pin several times but I really assume the issue is inside the touch. Once I pull the pin down first thing in the morning it seems OK for the rest of the day so I can't make it happen on demand. Does the hex adjust on the top have any relation to this issue?

Don't mess with the hex adjust. Just go into your Starting GCode in your slicer and put the following at the very beginning and it will reset any alarms and put the pin in the proper position.>>>

M280 P0 S160
G4 P5000 : wait for alarm reset to clear
M280 P0 S90 ;pin up

If you are using SLIC3R, you only have to do it once. For Cura, you have to put it in each version of the print setting that you created.

Thanks for the tip. I'm using Octoprint so I added the following to the "run after printer connected" script:

M280 P0 S160 ; Reset BLTouch sensor
G4 P1000 ; Wait for alarm reset to clear
M280 P0 S120 ; self test BL Touch
G4 P3000 ; Let self test run a few seconds
M280 P0 S160 ; Reset BLTouch sensor - stop self test
M280 P0 S90 ; Pin up

Every time I turn on the printer and connect through Octoprint the BL Touch will get exercised. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be a way to test that the pin is actually down before the carriage starts moving down.

Quote
DaveA

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
DaveA
BLTouch Users:

Has anyone else had an issue where the pin will remain retracted after a print is finished and the printer is turned off over night? I've had this happen several times and if I forget about pulling down on the pin the next G28 will crash the nozzle into the glass. I've cleaned the pin several times but I really assume the issue is inside the touch. Once I pull the pin down first thing in the morning it seems OK for the rest of the day so I can't make it happen on demand. Does the hex adjust on the top have any relation to this issue?

Don't mess with the hex adjust. Just go into your Starting GCode in your slicer and put the following at the very beginning and it will reset any alarms and put the pin in the proper position.>>>

M280 P0 S160
G4 P5000 : wait for alarm reset to clear
M280 P0 S90 ;pin up

If you are using SLIC3R, you only have to do it once. For Cura, you have to put it in each version of the print setting that you created.

Thanks for the tip. I'm using Octoprint so I added the following to the "run after printer connected" script:

M280 P0 S160 ; Reset BLTouch sensor
G4 P1000 ; Wait for alarm reset to clear
M280 P0 S120 ; self test BL Touch
G4 P3000 ; Let self test run a few seconds
M280 P0 S160 ; Reset BLTouch sensor - stop self test
M280 P0 S90 ; Pin up

Every time I turn on the printer and connect through Octoprint the BL Touch will get exercised. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be a way to test that the pin is actually down before the carriage starts moving down.

That's an even better routine than mine!
The pin should move down as part of the bed leveling routine from the firmware. If it tests fine during the initial GCode, then, if it doesn't come down during the BL routine, there's something amiss in the Marlin code, not the BLTOUCH.

[plus.google.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2016 11:18AM by tjnamtiw.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Anyone know what could cause my RAMPS to start messing up arduinos?

I use a $9 C.H.I.P (www.getchip.com) as a printer server running repetier-server to control my 2020 i3. Had been working flawlessly for a month, then suddenly last Thursday it shut down with no warning with 10 minutes to go in a print. Since then I've had a pile of problems. I reflashed the OS on the C.H.I.P re-installed rep-server and couldn't get it to talk to my printer. It would appear to connect - but couldn't actually send any commands. I can still print from SD but over USB things are really messed up.

When I connect by USB right to my desktop repetier-host just shows garbage coming from the arduino/RAMPS:

18:00:42.106 : No start signal detected - forcing start
18:00:44.592 : Jo6?F?J??%?M?y?K?f?*kX?H.,?P|fN?H7obvHa&??'Z]h.?g:}M?VS?
18:05:45.419 : ??

I happened to have a spare RAMPS/Arduino set on hand that I was going to use for the MPCNC I'm printing...and it worked just fine when I hooked it up to the C.H.I.P or straight to my computer.

So I figured it had to be something with my Arduino or Marlin. I reflashed Marlin and still had the same problems. So apparently that wasn't it. Then I swapped the arduino on my printer for the one from the other set (which was working fine) and it's now doing the same thing just giving garbage. I moved it back to the RAMPS it came with and it's giving garbage there now as well, even after reflashing.

So it seems any arduino I connect to the RAMPS on my printer develops some kind of problem with it's USB converter (remember it still prints from SD so the main processor seems to be working ok.)

I still have another spare arduino mega from other projects on hand...but I'm not about to subject it to the kiss of death from my Printer now

Looks like I'll need to order a new RAMPS/Mega combo...but I'm at a loss as to what could be causing this. It doesn't seem likely that anything is physically wrong since I can still reflash the arduinos so the USB-Serial bridge is still seems to be working.

Ok...it gets harder to understand....I'm still getting garbage if I connect the arduinos right to my PC and talk to them with rep-host...but connected to the CHIP rep-server can now connect and talk to my spare test board and the board for my MPCNC...but my original board still won't talk after connecting. And now my RAMPS is acting like it's not getting power but still has 12v on the inputs and the fuses show continuity...but no lights.

This is not my day apparently....

Hi guys,

trying to set my Home position. Every time I hit the home button in Repetier the motors run past the end stops. I have checked the wiring and everything seems correct.

@WilberMaker - Use M119 commands from repetier to check end stops

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2016 11:02PM by SteveRoy.

Thanks SteveRoy

Have not checked it on the printer yet but the term "M119 Commands" helps. Googled and got lots of needed information and directions. A little clue is just what I needed. Thanks again.

Quote
jhitesma
Anyone know what could cause my RAMPS to start messing up arduinos?

I use a $9 C.H.I.P (www.getchip.com) as a printer server running repetier-server to control my 2020 i3. Had been working flawlessly for a month, then suddenly last Thursday it shut down with no warning with 10 minutes to go in a print. Since then I've had a pile of problems. I reflashed the OS on the C.H.I.P re-installed rep-server and couldn't get it to talk to my printer. It would appear to connect - but couldn't actually send any commands. I can still print from SD but over USB things are really messed up.

When I connect by USB right to my desktop repetier-host just shows garbage coming from the arduino/RAMPS:

18:00:42.106 : No start signal detected - forcing start
18:00:44.592 : Jo6?F?J??%?M?y?K?f?*kX?H.,?P|fN?H7obvHa&??'Z]h.?g:}M?VS?
18:05:45.419 : ??

I happened to have a spare RAMPS/Arduino set on hand that I was going to use for the MPCNC I'm printing...and it worked just fine when I hooked it up to the C.H.I.P or straight to my computer.

So I figured it had to be something with my Arduino or Marlin. I reflashed Marlin and still had the same problems. So apparently that wasn't it. Then I swapped the arduino on my printer for the one from the other set (which was working fine) and it's now doing the same thing just giving garbage. I moved it back to the RAMPS it came with and it's giving garbage there now as well, even after reflashing.

So it seems any arduino I connect to the RAMPS on my printer develops some kind of problem with it's USB converter (remember it still prints from SD so the main processor seems to be working ok.)

I still have another spare arduino mega from other projects on hand...but I'm not about to subject it to the kiss of death from my Printer now

Looks like I'll need to order a new RAMPS/Mega combo...but I'm at a loss as to what could be causing this. It doesn't seem likely that anything is physically wrong since I can still reflash the arduinos so the USB-Serial bridge is still seems to be working.

Ok...it gets harder to understand....I'm still getting garbage if I connect the arduinos right to my PC and talk to them with rep-host...but connected to the CHIP rep-server can now connect and talk to my spare test board and the board for my MPCNC...but my original board still won't talk after connecting. And now my RAMPS is acting like it's not getting power but still has 12v on the inputs and the fuses show continuity...but no lights.

This is not my day apparently....

It sounds like the mega has some power issue, maybe a faulty voltage regulator on the mega. I have a bad regulator right now and my temp fix is a powered USB 2.0 hub. Is the amperage for the C.H.I.P. power supply up to the task, or does it derive power from the Ramps through the mega board? Some of my old USB chargers are rated way too low in amperage.

Are the MOSFETS on the Ramps Board touching each other?

Quote
flatlander
It sounds like the mega has some power issue, maybe a faulty voltage regulator on the mega. I have a bad regulator right now and my temp fix is a powered USB 2.0 hub. Is the amperage for the C.H.I.P. power supply up to the task, or does it derive power from the Ramps through the mega board? Some of my old USB chargers are rated way too low in amperage.

Are the MOSFETS on the Ramps Board touching each other?

Power is my guess as well...but...the way the problem starts on an arduino after plugging it into my RAMPS makes me question just what's going on since there's no active power circuits on the RAMPS (Well, there are active output circuits...but no input/regulation circuits that's all on the mega.)

The CHIP is not up to powering much of anything directly itself, it's only powered off USB. So I use a USB hub with a 2a supply to connect things to the CHIP (the CHIP only has one USB port and very limited power so the hub is pretty much necessary...feels kinds of silly to use a $20 hub with a $9 computer...but there you go.) I actually just upgraded the hub on the CHIP this weekend since my old hub only had a 0.1a power supply and I figured that was why I had the crash last week. Knew it was pushing things with the old hub but ran great for almost a month. Could be an issue with the new hub I suppose, will grab the multimeter at lunch and check a few more things.

MOSFETS are not touching.

Just seems really odd that it only appears to affect USB I/O under marlin and seems to start as soon as I connect a mega to the ramps on my printer. Have a new ramps/mega set on the way which will be here tomorrow since now I have 3 megas that are acting up after swapping them in to try and isolate what's going on. If it was power on the board or the USB->Serial chip on the mega I'd expect to have issues with flashing the board, but that works just fine.

Can still print from SD no problem, but the server setup really has me spoiled. And not having USB is going to make it hard to do any more tweaks to my printer

I went through quite some pages here and the "building instructions".
I have one question. Is Folgertech a sponsor of this forum ?
Thanks

Quote
awmyhr

Quote
animoose
Check in case the gear on the extruder is slipping. Sometimes the grub screws can work loose.
Check whether the V-grooved bearing in the extruder is rotating freely. These are quite cheap bearings and can wear out.
Check whether the nozzle is blocked (partly in your case as some filament is getting through). This is a bit harder to see directly, but maybe you can drive some filament through by hand. If you have some fine stiff wire such as welding wire or a guitar string, you may be able to run it through, but be careful to avoid damaging the liner.

Awesome, thank you very much, I will look into all that.

Update: turns out it was the nozzle, but in fixing that, I seem to have destroyed my hotend. So I... ordered an E3D V6 (been meaning to do that anyway) and threw in the new Titan extruder for good measure. Anyone else using that combo yet? Even better question: anyone using those two with a BLTouch yet? (As I've just ordered one of those as well).

Quote
MKSA
I went through quite some pages here and the "building instructions".
I have one question. Is Folgertech a sponsor of this forum ?
Thanks

They are not an official sponsor. The forum thread was started by someone from Folger, but he has not been involved since the very early posts on it, and I think no longer works there.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

Quote
animoose

Quote
MKSA
I went through quite some pages here and the "building instructions".
I have one question. Is Folgertech a sponsor of this forum ?
Thanks

They are not an official sponsor. The forum thread was started by someone from Folger, but he has not been involved since the very early posts on it, and I think no longer works there.

I've also read somewhere that Dan left the company.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2016 04:42PM by Cyril.

From the manual to deal with the fan extruder:

Attach the black wire the remaining – screw/socket on the power supply (the 6th from the side of the power supply closest to the back of the printer assembly).
Note: This will cause the extruder fan to run constantly, which will reduce clogs and jams in the extruder.

I think the first attempt was to plug the hot end fan to the D9 Connector. Looks like it was an issue (maybe the fan stopped to early when the hot end stopped heating I don't know). But it could be great to turn on the fan only when required (and keep it running for a certain amount of time.

From Polulu schematic [reprap.org] we can see the D8 to D10 connector and on Marlin Firmware [github.com] we can see some variant of the RAMP Board (like EEB or EFB an so on).

And this is actually a feature of the Marlin firmware: [github.com]

So I was wondering if there is a way to plug the FAN to the D9 Connector and let Marlin deal with the FAN power on / off depending on the hot end temperature. If any one already tried this please share your thought.

If the manual state otherwise then, there should be a reason I'd like to hear

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2016 06:59PM by Cyril.

Quote
Cyril
From the manual to deal with the fan extruder:

Attach the black wire the remaining – screw/socket on the power supply (the 6th from the side of the power supply closest to the back of the printer assembly).
Note: This will cause the extruder fan to run constantly, which will reduce clogs and jams in the extruder.

I think the first attempt was to plug the hot end fan to the D9 Connector. Looks like it was an issue (maybe the fan stopped to early when the hot end stopped heating I don't know). But it could be great to turn on the fan only when required (and keep it running for a certain amount of time.

From Polulu schematic [reprap.org] we can see the D8 to D10 connector and on Marlin Firmware [github.com] we can see some variant of the RAMP Board (like EEB or EFB an so on).

And this is actually a feature of the Marlin firmware: [github.com]

So I was wondering if there is a way to plug the FAN to the D9 Connector and let Marlin deal with the FAN power on / off depending on the hot end temperature. If any one already tried this please share your thought.

If the manual state otherwise then, there should be a reason I'd like to hear

The extruder fan should be always on, or you will get nozzle clogs from heat rising too high up the heat break tube towards the extruder. It cools the extruder and heat break.

There are lots of things on thingiverse for attaching a second fan to blow on the extruded filament or the print itself. This is the one that you want controlled by Marlin.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

My Thingiverse Designs