Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

Quote
Bert3D
The BLTouch setup is documented in the wiki that is maintained by some of us in this forum.
Scroll down, and you'll find all the necessary config file changes included. You should be able to just post them into your config.
Folger Tech i3 Wiki

If you have specific questions, I can help.

Thanks- I am running very stock hardware - only mods have be add-ons like spool holder, better endstops, etc.
Wil ping you if i run into trouble

Quote
3333dddd

Quote
Bert3D
The BLTouch setup is documented in the wiki that is maintained by some of us in this forum.
Scroll down, and you'll find all the necessary config file changes included. You should be able to just post them into your config.
Folger Tech i3 Wiki

If you have specific questions, I can help.

Thanks- I am running very stock hardware - only mods have be add-ons like spool holder, better endstops, etc.
Wil ping you if i run into trouble

I starting this tonight. How far along are you? What holder did you use to get the correct height?

Quote
WilberMaker
I starting this tonight. How far along are you? What holder did you use to get the correct height?

I am going to be printing both this one
[www.thingiverse.com]
and the source of it
[www.thingiverse.com]
and will see which one fits....but I need to score some ABS, as I only have PLA right now

Quote
3333dddd

Quote
WilberMaker
I starting this tonight. How far along are you? What holder did you use to get the correct height?

I am going to be printing both this one
[www.thingiverse.com]
and the source of it
[www.thingiverse.com]
and will see which one fits....but I need to score some ABS, as I only have PLA right now

I created the derivative of the original because it didn't have enough height for me. Perhaps the original was for an earlier version of the hotend? Just to give you a starting point ONLY, my Z offset is -3.45.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Hi all

I have my printer working for a few months already and there is one thing that I could never get rid of. Initially I thought it was z banding so I did all those things people do about z wobble and such. But here is the thing, it's not z banding! I can change the horizontal pattern to different inclinations by varying stuff like extrusion multiplier or the extruder voltage. I came to the conclusion that my extruder oscillates and I have no idea how to fix that. It makes a sound hard to describe; it's very "musical" like a high pitch arpeggio. I would think it to be normal as these motors do make these sounds, but in the case of the extruder the sound's frequency matches the pattern on the surface. Could this be a problem with the gears? or voltage?

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
UltiFix
This doesnt happen very often, but lately its happend twice in a row. My filament will jam in the middle of a print, and I can hear clicking noises coming out of the extruder... I noticed filament was jammed inside my hotend, so I just heated the hotend up really hot and pushed out the plastic.

1. Im wondering what causes this to happen randomely?

2. Is it time for me to get a new hotend?

3.A few things I noticed, my hotend seeps plastic, especially when im extruding really fast. When I heat up my hotend to say, 250C its loose, it can be turned both directions easily. Should it be tightened all the way to the right?

I just want to say this printer has been a workhorse for me for awhile now, it prints just fine and has required low maintence. Its probably time to give it an upgrade

The stock hot end will serve you well for quite a while. If it's spinning, the set screw holding the threaded tube is loose or the nozzle/threaded tube junction isn't correct. That tube should be run up several turns above the heat break block so it's closer to the extruder gear and prevent jams. Then it should be run far enough down into the hot end so that when you screw in the nozzle, the nozzle hits it before it bottoms out. You should have a thread or two showing on the nozzle, Tighten the nozzle against the threaded tube, which gives you the seal to prevent any leakage. Retighten when it's way up in temperature again. NO LEAKS and no need for a new hot end yet! Just get it set up correctly.

Thanks! I spun the threaded rod up a bit above the head block, then tightened the set screw up good. Then brought it to tempature and tightened the heating element block thing itself.

Here are before and after pics...
Before:
[imgur.com]
After:
[imgur.com]

Unfortanetly mid print (Right after I was excited the extruder was fixed!) my entire extruder fell off of the x carriage. IMO how its mounted is a bad design.

I have had problems with this in the past, the first time I tried to install my extruder the bolt holes were not properly lined up in the 3d printed part and I stripped the motor threads trying to get the bolts in. I swapped the motor with the bad threads to the z axis motor since it mounts with the front holes not the back.(I drilled out the holes abit in the x axis 3d printed piece so I could get the bolts into the motor) So this is the second time my extruder has fallen off! What am I doing wrong? Should I switch this motor with the other z axis motor?

I shouldn't have said this printer has been running reliably for me and I haven't had to work on it. It now wants my attention

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/2016 09:14PM by UltiFix.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

Quote
msaeger

Quote
UltiFix
This doesnt happen very often, but lately its happend twice in a row. My filament will jam in the middle of a print, and I can hear clicking noises coming out of the extruder... I noticed filament was jammed inside my hotend, so I just heated the hotend up really hot and pushed out the plastic.

1. Im wondering what causes this to happen randomely?

2. Is it time for me to get a new hotend?

3.A few things I noticed, my hotend seeps plastic, especially when im extruding really fast. When I heat up my hotend to say, 250C its loose, it can be turned both directions easily. Should it be tightened all the way to the right?

I just want to say this printer has been a workhorse for me for awhile now, it prints just fine and has required low maintence. Its probably time to give it an upgrade

I would just get the e3d. You could probably fix old one by replacing the threaded tube with the liner if you want to stay with the stock one. That liner breaks down and you start getting jams especially if you are running at 250c.

For leaking you should heat up the hotend then tighten the nozzle with it hot.

I would actually get the e3d and the titan extruder then you won't get anymore extruder clicking. I think there needs to be some gearing in the extruder to make it work with the motor they are using.

I went ahead and fixed the stock one, I might upgrade in the future though... Thanks for the advice!

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

I finally found some more time to work on my printer. I just switched my autoleveling sensor from the right side of the extruder to the left side. Since the endstop is on the left I can get closer to the left edge of the bed with the sensor hanging off of the bed. But now i am having issues getting G28/G29 to work correctly. Before this autobed leveling had been working for the past three months.

First a G28 X0 Y0 is sent, the extruder moves to the front left position of the bed (this works correctly).
Second G28 Z0 is sent (printer head crash because the probe is not on the bed).
I have safe homing enabled and entered correct probe offset values but this doesn't seem to help.
I am wondering if anyone has figured out how to home X/Y and then move the probe to the right so it can home Z.

Thanks.

I'm using 1/2" PVC and made a stand behind the printer. Will something like that work for you to you can find some 2020?

Quote
Devil Inc
Dan/John. I'm having issues with the side mounted spool. The extruder is 'slipping' trying to pull the filament once it gets tight with the spool. I had a jam because of it. If I can source a piece of 20/20 quickly, I'm going to relocate the spool up top similar to the OG i3 users to see if removing the side load helps. Just an observation I'm noticing. A 6" long piece and a few mounts would work, if my measurements are correct.

Still having problems with my Marlin and the BLTouch. Been comparing my configuration.h with others and the version I am using is different. Can someone link my to a version of Marlin to start with for Auto bed leveling?

Quote
Keary123
I finally found some more time to work on my printer. I just switched my autoleveling sensor from the right side of the extruder to the left side. Since the endstop is on the left I can get closer to the left edge of the bed with the sensor hanging off of the bed. But now i am having issues getting G28/G29 to work correctly. Before this autobed leveling had been working for the past three months.

First a G28 X0 Y0 is sent, the extruder moves to the front left position of the bed (this works correctly).
Second G28 Z0 is sent (printer head crash because the probe is not on the bed).
I have safe homing enabled and entered correct probe offset values but this doesn't seem to help.
I am wondering if anyone has figured out how to home X/Y and then move the probe to the right so it can home Z.

Thanks.

When I hit the home all button on rep host it homes x and y then does the safehome thing where x and y center then z homes, here is my configuration.h to compare to yours. PLEASE do not just copy mine, its setup specifically for my printer.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

Quote
UltiFix

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
UltiFix
This doesnt happen very often, but lately its happend twice in a row. My filament will jam in the middle of a print, and I can hear clicking noises coming out of the extruder... I noticed filament was jammed inside my hotend, so I just heated the hotend up really hot and pushed out the plastic.

1. Im wondering what causes this to happen randomely?

2. Is it time for me to get a new hotend?

3.A few things I noticed, my hotend seeps plastic, especially when im extruding really fast. When I heat up my hotend to say, 250C its loose, it can be turned both directions easily. Should it be tightened all the way to the right?

I just want to say this printer has been a workhorse for me for awhile now, it prints just fine and has required low maintence. Its probably time to give it an upgrade

The stock hot end will serve you well for quite a while. If it's spinning, the set screw holding the threaded tube is loose or the nozzle/threaded tube junction isn't correct. That tube should be run up several turns above the heat break block so it's closer to the extruder gear and prevent jams. Then it should be run far enough down into the hot end so that when you screw in the nozzle, the nozzle hits it before it bottoms out. You should have a thread or two showing on the nozzle, Tighten the nozzle against the threaded tube, which gives you the seal to prevent any leakage. Retighten when it's way up in temperature again. NO LEAKS and no need for a new hot end yet! Just get it set up correctly.

Thanks! I spun the threaded rod up a bit above the head block, then tightened the set screw up good. Then brought it to tempature and tightened the heating element block thing itself.

Here are before and after pics...
Before:
[imgur.com]
After:
[imgur.com]

Unfortanetly mid print (Right after I was excited the extruder was fixed!) my entire extruder fell off of the x carriage. IMO how its mounted is a bad design.

I have had problems with this in the past, the first time I tried to install my extruder the bolt holes were not properly lined up in the 3d printed part and I stripped the motor threads trying to get the bolts in. I swapped the motor with the bad threads to the z axis motor since it mounts with the front holes not the back.(I drilled out the holes abit in the x axis 3d printed piece so I could get the bolts into the motor) So this is the second time my extruder has fallen off! What am I doing wrong? Should I switch this motor with the other z axis motor?

I shouldn't have said this printer has been running reliably for me and I haven't had to work on it. It now wants my attention

What I ended up doing was switching the stripped extruder motor with one of the non stripped z axis motors, then got new bolts to attach the motor to the x carriage, then I used some red loctite and put a bit on the end of the bolts that go into the motor, then tightened it! Lets just say its never gonna come off

Should I have used red loctite? Probably not but its what I had lying around and I tried to only use a tiny bit which didnt go so well... Oh well.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

Quote
UltiFix

Quote
Keary123
I finally found some more time to work on my printer. I just switched my autoleveling sensor from the right side of the extruder to the left side. Since the endstop is on the left I can get closer to the left edge of the bed with the sensor hanging off of the bed. But now i am having issues getting G28/G29 to work correctly. Before this autobed leveling had been working for the past three months.

First a G28 X0 Y0 is sent, the extruder moves to the front left position of the bed (this works correctly).
Second G28 Z0 is sent (printer head crash because the probe is not on the bed).
I have safe homing enabled and entered correct probe offset values but this doesn't seem to help.
I am wondering if anyone has figured out how to home X/Y and then move the probe to the right so it can home Z.

Thanks.

When I hit the home all button on rep host it homes x and y then does the safehome thing where x and y center then z homes, here is my configuration.h to compare to yours. PLEASE do not just copy mine, its setup specifically for my printer.

Yea, you're missing something in the Safe Homing routine. It should go into the center to home Z, like UltiFix said.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Hello all,

I want to setup auto leveling using the stock/factory endstop. My Folger Tech 2020 i3 is bone stock in hardware and software.

I have read 60 - 70 posts in this thread and now I am more confused than ever.

Is there a step-by-step wiki or post I can follow to get auto leveling up and running with what I stated above?

Any help would be much appreciated!

Quote
Trilithon
Hello all,

I want to setup auto leveling using the stock/factory endstop. My Folger Tech 2020 i3 is bone stock in hardware and software.

I have read 60 - 70 posts in this thread and now I am more confused than ever.

Is there a step-by-step wiki or post I can follow to get auto leveling up and running with what I stated above?

Any help would be much appreciated!

You can't use autolevel without adding some hardware. You need a probe of some kind attached to the hot end/extruder assembly. It can be done using the endstop sensor attached to an arm with a servo, but that isn't the best solution. A lot of people use a BLTouch, and many use inductive or capacitive sensors. There are mounts for all of these on thingiverse. I'd probably hold off on autolevel until you have some experience with modifying the printer and customizing the firmware. You need a good clear understanding of what is involved before deciding which auto level approach you want.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

My Thingiverse Designs

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
UltiFix

Quote
Keary123
I finally found some more time to work on my printer. I just switched my autoleveling sensor from the right side of the extruder to the left side. Since the endstop is on the left I can get closer to the left edge of the bed with the sensor hanging off of the bed. But now i am having issues getting G28/G29 to work correctly. Before this autobed leveling had been working for the past three months.

First a G28 X0 Y0 is sent, the extruder moves to the front left position of the bed (this works correctly).
Second G28 Z0 is sent (printer head crash because the probe is not on the bed).
I have safe homing enabled and entered correct probe offset values but this doesn't seem to help.
I am wondering if anyone has figured out how to home X/Y and then move the probe to the right so it can home Z.

Thanks.

When I hit the home all button on rep host it homes x and y then does the safehome thing where x and y center then z homes, here is my configuration.h to compare to yours. PLEASE do not just copy mine, its setup specifically for my printer.

Yea, you're missing something in the Safe Homing routine. It should go into the center to home Z, like UltiFix said.

Okay awesome thanks for the help. I guess G28 is case sensitive because when I do a g28 x0 y0 it homes in the center like you stated but when I do a G28 X0 Y0 it homes at the orgin in the front left side of the bed.

Has anyone set up autobed leveling with marlin 1.6.5? I am having some issues switching over. I am using a fixed inductive sensor and before the light would always be on and it would trigger when the nozzle was close to the bed. Now the light is off and triggers when it is close to the bed but it doesn't stop the Z-Axis from continuing to move down.

Matter control has a autolevel thing that doesn't need more hardware. They have you set the hotend to bed gap in a few places then during the print they move the z to make up for your bed being out of level. It would work best if you had the z end stop at the top but it will work at the bottom you just need the end stop set at the lowest point on the bed.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Quote
msaeger
Matter control has a autolevel thing that doesn't need more hardware. They have you set the hotend to bed gap in a few places then during the print they move the z to make up for your bed being out of level. It would work best if you had the z end stop at the top but it will work at the bottom you just need the end stop set at the lowest point on the bed.

Im using S3D but the issue isnt in the software its in the firmware. marlin 1.6.5 has new code for defining a fixed probe but I am using the probe as my z endstop and autoleveling probe so I am having issues getting the new firmware to work correctly.

Quote
Keary123

Quote
msaeger
Matter control has a autolevel thing that doesn't need more hardware. They have you set the hotend to bed gap in a few places then during the print they move the z to make up for your bed being out of level. It would work best if you had the z end stop at the top but it will work at the bottom you just need the end stop set at the lowest point on the bed.

Im using S3D but the issue isnt in the software its in the firmware. marlin 1.6.5 has new code for defining a fixed probe but I am using the probe as my z endstop and autoleveling probe so I am having issues getting the new firmware to work correctly.

Sorry I should have used quote I was responding to someone saying you needed to add hardware to do auto level. All these problems getting it going is why I have just not tried auto level and I don't really think I need it now anyway. What I would love to have is the feature Prusa was showing on his printer where you can change the Z height during a print.

[www.youtube.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/19/2016 11:03PM by msaeger.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Quote
msaeger

Quote
Keary123

Quote
msaeger
Matter control has a autolevel thing that doesn't need more hardware. They have you set the hotend to bed gap in a few places then during the print they move the z to make up for your bed being out of level. It would work best if you had the z end stop at the top but it will work at the bottom you just need the end stop set at the lowest point on the bed.

Im using S3D but the issue isnt in the software its in the firmware. marlin 1.6.5 has new code for defining a fixed probe but I am using the probe as my z endstop and autoleveling probe so I am having issues getting the new firmware to work correctly.

Sorry I should have used quote I was responding to someone saying you needed to add hardware to do auto level. All these problems getting it going is why I have just not tried auto level and I don't really think I need it now anyway. What I would love to have is the feature Prusa was showing on his printer where you can change the Z height during a print.

[www.youtube.com]

No problem! That looks interesting. I finally got Marlin 1.6.5 working with auto level but not for some reason G29 starts on the right side away from the x end stop moves to the left and then back. Weird. It seems reversed to how it was normally probing the bed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/20/2016 10:32AM by Keary123.

Quote
diegzumillo
Hi all

I have my printer working for a few months already and there is one thing that I could never get rid of. Initially I thought it was z banding so I did all those things people do about z wobble and such. But here is the thing, it's not z banding! I can change the horizontal pattern to different inclinations by varying stuff like extrusion multiplier or the extruder voltage. I came to the conclusion that my extruder oscillates and I have no idea how to fix that. It makes a sound hard to describe; it's very "musical" like a high pitch arpeggio. I would think it to be normal as these motors do make these sounds, but in the case of the extruder the sound's frequency matches the pattern on the surface. Could this be a problem with the gears? or voltage?

It might be the bed that is oscillating. I bolted the back of the bed with a spacer and manually level the z heigth ; by twizling the left z-axis stepper. Hard bolting the (0,0,0), with a spacer made a bunch of artifacts go away. Bolts and springs make for a very loose bed.

Interesting! I haven't thought about that.

I suspect it's not the case though, because I can change the pattern by varying extrusion multiplier. But I'll give it a shot.

Quote
3333dddd

Quote
WilberMaker
I starting this tonight. How far along are you? What holder did you use to get the correct height?

I am going to be printing both this one
[www.thingiverse.com]
and the source of it
[www.thingiverse.com]
and will see which one fits....but I need to score some ABS, as I only have PLA right now

I actually made mine out of PLA and it's still fine with no sagging. Remember you are mounting it on the cooling block, which is essentiall room temp. Try PETG instead of ABS. It's plenty strong. Also they are introducing a stronger, more heat resistant PLA now too.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

I ask the question before and I think I got buried so I will try again. My bed is taking and unusal amount of time to heat up. Around 5 min or so. Tip is heating at the normal rate. I'm running a different Marlin than before, what settings would control this?

I've been researching 120 VAC silicon heat pads and I think I came across a Tom video that may have bad advice. It's at the following YouTube address:
[www.youtube.com]

Isn't switching the neutral a bad idea. I think all 120 vac house wiring is switched on the hot side (black wire). If you freeze the video at 2:35 you'll see the diagram that I have a questions about. The description starts at about 1:55.

Isn't it best practice to switch the hot, load, side? It probably doesn't matter for the function the heater...but having the hot end live might create some dangerous path to ground. The 60 Hz dance is bad.

Does anyone have a good source for wiring SSRs and the correct Marlin 'pulse' frequency settings for one of these heaters?

How well do aluminum beds do with part adhesion vs glass plates?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2016 10:35AM by flatlander.

Quote
WilberMaker
I ask the question before and I think I got buried so I will try again. My bed is taking and unusal amount of time to heat up. Around 5 min or so. Tip is heating at the normal rate. I'm running a different Marlin than before, what settings would control this?

The following could be different:

//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

I would compare Thermal Settings and maybe the thermistor definition has changed. Mine is as follows:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1.

I've tried a few settings, I think I used 5 for a while and an an 'experimental' custom 8, that required the following mod to thermistorstables.h:

// type 8 alternative
// NTC 3950 Thermistor parameters
// beta:3950 thermistor table for marlin
// from: [microfabricator.com]
#if (THERMISTORHEATER_0 == 8) || (THERMISTORHEATER_1 == 8) || (THERMISTORHEATER_2 == 8) || (THERMISTORBED == 8) // QU-BD silicone bed QWG-104F-3950 thermistor
const short temptable_8[][2] PROGMEM = {
         {1*OVERSAMPLENR,        938},
         {31*OVERSAMPLENR,       314},
         {41*OVERSAMPLENR,       290},
         {51*OVERSAMPLENR,       272},
         {61*OVERSAMPLENR,       258},
         {71*OVERSAMPLENR,       247},
         {81*OVERSAMPLENR,       237},
         {91*OVERSAMPLENR,       229},
         {101*OVERSAMPLENR,      221},
         {111*OVERSAMPLENR,      215},
         {121*OVERSAMPLENR,      209},
         {131*OVERSAMPLENR,      204},
         {141*OVERSAMPLENR,      199},
         {151*OVERSAMPLENR,      195},
         {161*OVERSAMPLENR,      190},
         {171*OVERSAMPLENR,      187},
         {181*OVERSAMPLENR,      183},
         {191*OVERSAMPLENR,      179},
         {201*OVERSAMPLENR,      176},
         {221*OVERSAMPLENR,      170},
         {241*OVERSAMPLENR,      165},
         {261*OVERSAMPLENR,      160},
         {281*OVERSAMPLENR,      155},
         {301*OVERSAMPLENR,      150},
         {331*OVERSAMPLENR,      144},
         {361*OVERSAMPLENR,      139},
         {391*OVERSAMPLENR,      133},
         {421*OVERSAMPLENR,      128},
         {451*OVERSAMPLENR,      123},
         {491*OVERSAMPLENR,      117},
         {531*OVERSAMPLENR,      111},
         {571*OVERSAMPLENR,      105},
         {611*OVERSAMPLENR,      100},
         {641*OVERSAMPLENR,      95},
         {681*OVERSAMPLENR,      90},
         {711*OVERSAMPLENR,      85},
         {751*OVERSAMPLENR,      79},
         {791*OVERSAMPLENR,      72},
         {811*OVERSAMPLENR,      69},
         {831*OVERSAMPLENR,      65},
         {871*OVERSAMPLENR,      57},
         {881*OVERSAMPLENR,      55},
         {901*OVERSAMPLENR,      51},
         {921*OVERSAMPLENR,      45},
         {941*OVERSAMPLENR,      39},
         {971*OVERSAMPLENR,      28},
         {981*OVERSAMPLENR,      23},
         {991*OVERSAMPLENR,      17},
         {1001*OVERSAMPLENR,     9},
         {1021*OVERSAMPLENR,     -27}
};

#endif

I didn't do a good test of the whole range for my thermistors, but I figure if it has room temperature correct I'm might be in the ballpark...not good having one data point, ha, ha, ha.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2016 10:33AM by flatlander.

I haven't been following this thread too closely lately, but I thought I would share this in case anyone was interested. I have updated my x axis to v rail and updated the extruder I designed so that it mounts on the mini v wheel kit.

[www.thingiverse.com]

I still haven't completely tested it and was hoping the community would let me know if they see anything that can be improved.

Thanks in advance.

Quote
WilberMaker
I'm using 1/2" PVC and made a stand behind the printer. Will something like that work for you to you can find some 2020?

Quote
Devil Inc
Dan/John. I'm having issues with the side mounted spool. The extruder is 'slipping' trying to pull the filament once it gets tight with the spool. I had a jam because of it. If I can source a piece of 20/20 quickly, I'm going to relocate the spool up top similar to the OG i3 users to see if removing the side load helps. Just an observation I'm noticing. A 6" long piece and a few mounts would work, if my measurements are correct.

I also made a stand out of 1/2" PVC and it works just fine.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
WilberMaker
I ask the question before and I think I got buried so I will try again. My bed is taking and unusal amount of time to heat up. Around 5 min or so. Tip is heating at the normal rate. I'm running a different Marlin than before, what settings would control this?

5 minutes is NOT unusual. Some people experience twice that amount of time. Take a deep breath and chill.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]