Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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WilberMaker
I am trying to install a Inductive sensor on my printer. The sensor is working. If I put the head in the center of the bed and do a normal Z home it works like a regular endstop. Problem comes when I try a G28 it Homes X and W normal then trys to home Z with the sensor hanging off the bed. What settings do I change to get it to home Z in the center of the bed?

G28 X; Home extruder
G28 Y
G1 X100; move the sensor over the bed
G28 Z ; home the extruder down after moving the sensor

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WilberMaker
@ Keary123 - Yes, it would be a big help to see your files. Thank You.

@ DaveA - Thanks, I have SAFE_HOMING uncommitted but it still wants to home Z in the 0,0 position. I have set the X_MIN_POS and X_MAX_POS at 0 and 200 (bed size) and set the probe offset at -30 and -20. What else is controlling it? I was thinking that maybe I am not updating the EEPROM so I ran clear EEPROM before reloading. What else should I check.

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Keary123

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WilberMaker
@ Keary123 - Yes, it would be a big help to see your files. Thank You.

@ DaveA - Thanks, I have SAFE_HOMING uncommitted but it still wants to home Z in the 0,0 position. I have set the X_MIN_POS and X_MAX_POS at 0 and 200 (bed size) and set the probe offset at -30 and -20. What else is controlling it? I was thinking that maybe I am not updating the EEPROM so I ran clear EEPROM before reloading. What else should I check.

Sorry was busy yesterday and didn't get a chance to check my firmware. I have the appropriate probe offsets in Marlin, then modified the endstops pull-ups, when I run a G28 it moves to 0,0 (front left corner of bed) and then moves to the middle of the bed and homes, then G29 sends the probe to the front right position probes, front left probes, back left probes, and then back right probes. This is opposite of what it use to do with my older version of Marlin but abl is still doing its job. I'll send you my firmware around 1pm central time today.

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DaveA

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Keary123

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WilberMaker
@ Keary123 - Yes, it would be a big help to see your files. Thank You.

@ DaveA - Thanks, I have SAFE_HOMING uncommitted but it still wants to home Z in the 0,0 position. I have set the X_MIN_POS and X_MAX_POS at 0 and 200 (bed size) and set the probe offset at -30 and -20. What else is controlling it? I was thinking that maybe I am not updating the EEPROM so I ran clear EEPROM before reloading. What else should I check.

Sorry was busy yesterday and didn't get a chance to check my firmware. I have the appropriate probe offsets in Marlin, then modified the endstops pull-ups, when I run a G28 it moves to 0,0 (front left corner of bed) and then moves to the middle of the bed and homes, then G29 sends the probe to the front right position probes, front left probes, back left probes, and then back right probes. This is opposite of what it use to do with my older version of Marlin but abl is still doing its job. I'll send you my firmware around 1pm central time today.

What version of Marlin are you using? With 1.1.0RC6 I get exactly the same results as you. I'm using a BLTouch probe that hangs off the left side of the extruder head. If I comment out the Z_SAFE_HOMING line it will try to probe Z with the probe hanging off the left edge of the bed. With SAFE_HOMING enabled it moves to the left edge switch and then moves to the center and then probes. I haven't had time to look if any EEPROM settings are connected to the probe position.
Are you sure you had a good compile and download after enabling Z_SAFE_HOMING?

Here's a couple of lines of code that are used when Z_SAFE_HOMING is enabled. The code is certainly trying to get to the center of the bed.

#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_MIN_POS + X_MAX_POS) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28).
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_MIN_POS + Y_MAX_POS) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28).
#endif

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WilberMaker
Thanks for the help guys. Only had a little time to play with it yesterday. The head will still not go to bed center for homing Z. Strange thing is when I give it (G1 x100) the head moves very slow with funny sound and only travels about half the distance. the display shows x at 100 but it is not in center. Same thing happens with Y. However, it will home Z in this position. The printer display thinks it is at 100,100 with the head closer to 50,50. When I give G29 the head moves over and puts the probe over 0,0 and attempts to probe.( will not work on corner of bed) I am wanting to say my offsets are correct and safe probing is working but I have something wrong with the Z homing not going to bed center and the head is trying to go off the bed. Also need to find why G1 not working. Thinking maybe G1 is over-driving the steppers and they are skipping steps? Hope this makes since.

WilberMaker

Edit: I tried moving the head to 0,0 with the Repeiter toggle buttons and homing Z at true 100,100 and the sensor still goes over 0,0 and attempts to probe. I did see that a M119 shows the MAX endstops triggered. Is this right or do they need to be turned off?

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WilberMaker
Keary123 - Steps work in everything but G1. Tired of beating the file up, I'm going to abort this version. I downloaded your version of Marlin going to mod that file tonight

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AngoveInc
Hello everyone I am new to this cite so any advice or pointers would be very appreciated. I have upgraded my computer which means I have to create all of my old settings in my slicer, I am using Cura at the moment and am open to any other suggestions. I am trying to print multiple parts on the same bed, but I want them to print individually. When I try to do so however, I get an error message that states "for one at a time printing, you need to have entered the correct head size and gantry height in the machine setting." I have done no modifications to the machine. If anyone knows the correct numbers for the stock machine, I would greatly appreciate this information.

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schmuck
Does any one think they might be able to help me with the post that I just posted here:

[forums.reprap.org]

I have a 2020 prusa by FT and just need some quick marlin tips.

Thanks!

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fvargasfrank
Can someone one help me out, the bltouch just blink, g28 home my x and y g29 just make the bltouch go up, m119 reports z is trigger at all time
here is a link to my config, firmware is 1.1 RC3, i sped two days trying ot get this to work lol

[pastebin.com]

Thank you

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fvargasfrank
I reset the alarm but once it touches the glass is goes back into alarm, i did move the screw on the top a little,I try {M280 P0 S10 ; pushes the pin down } it send into alarm mode, the pin does not move up or down

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jabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

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jabu32

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

what should i try next? lower temp? Higher temp? slower speed?

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

what should i try next? lower temp? Higher temp? slower speed?

Can you push the filament easily through the nozzle with the roller retracted by the spring lever?

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jabu32

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

what should i try next? lower temp? Higher temp? slower speed?

Can you push the filament easily through the nozzle with the roller retracted by the spring lever?

Not as easy as pla or abs

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

what should i try next? lower temp? Higher temp? slower speed?

Can you push the filament easily through the nozzle with the roller retracted by the spring lever?

Not as easy as pla or abs

Then my GUESS would be that you either have ABS still stuck in the nozzle because you aren't melting it out at the lower temperatures or your teflon tubing in the heat break tube has gone bad due to the high temperatures you ran ABS at. If it were me, I'd put a new heat break tube and nozzle in the machine. It's a cheap fix. All of this assumes you have a stock extruder and hot end.

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jabu32

Yeah still stock. I do have an all metal one I bought. Is there any cautions running the all-metal head?

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32

Yeah still stock. I do have an all metal one I bought. Is there any cautions running the all-metal head?

Just replace the two parts I mentioned. If you change heads then you'll never know what caused your problem.

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jabu32

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32

Yeah still stock. I do have an all metal one I bought. Is there any cautions running the all-metal head?

Just replace the two parts I mentioned. If you change heads then you'll never know what caused your problem.

I meant all metal heat break.

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32

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tjnamtiw

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jabu32
anyone have any issue printing ESUN PETG? I can't print it with out the gear chewing it up. What settings are you using?

tried printing at 230, 235, 240C. Tried also with retract on and off. Both Cura and Slic3r.

No, I've run about 1/2 a roll so far. I did find that it strings like crazy if too hot (started at 245). I've been lowering the temperature slowly with each print. The last one ran great at 225 C. I ran 12 parts and there was almost no stringing between parts with 1.5 mm retract. Next I'll try 220 C.

Make sure you flushed out what ever you were running before that and that it comes straight down when you push the plastic through manually.

i tried 225 and still chewing up the line. I even slowed to 35mm/s. it seems like the filament is too soft.

what should i try next? lower temp? Higher temp? slower speed?

Can you push the filament easily through the nozzle with the roller retracted by the spring lever?

Not as easy as pla or abs

Then my GUESS would be that you either have ABS still stuck in the nozzle because you aren't melting it out at the lower temperatures or your teflon tubing in the heat break tube has gone bad due to the high temperatures you ran ABS at. If it were me, I'd put a new heat break tube and nozzle in the machine. It's a cheap fix. All of this assumes you have a stock extruder and hot end.

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iamquestar

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UltiFix
Well, I thought I fixed my extruder problem but I guess not... It the middle of a print it will stop extruding. I tried tightening the threaded hotend into the heat break and the hotend into the threaded piece.

If I take it apart and put it back together it will work for abit... Then stop extruding again. Should I try heating my hotend up to around 230 and then try cleaning it with a guitar string?

I guessing you may have a blob of plastic forming between your heatbreak and nozzle.

I looked a little closer at the before/after photos you posted a page or two back. It looks like you tightened the heatbreak tube up into the heatsink block, not down into the heater block. To ensure you have a tight seal between the heatbreak tube and the nozzle, start by backing the brass nozzle out of the heater block a full turn or so. At this point, screw the heatbreak tube all the way into the heater block (use ALL the threads). Now tighten the nozzle, until it bumps up against the tube. You should still have some thread of the nozzle visible, if not, try getting the heatbreak in a little farther down into the heater block.

Now heat up the hot end to about 240c, then once up to temp, tighten the nozzle again. You should still have a little space on the nozzle thread. It should not bottom out all the way to the heater block. This way, you know you have a good seal between the heatbreak tube and the nozzle.

If you do this, and you still have trouble, then it may be as msaeger suggests, the liner is bad, and replacing it may be needed. When replacing the heatbreak tube, make sure you follow the steps above to ensure a good seal between tube and nozzle.

I failed to do this when I purchased and installed an E3D lite6. I was having all kinds of extruder skips and jams. After much troubleshooting, and trying all kinds of different things (and more than a few choice words), I cleaned it all out, followed these steps when putting it back together, and it's been running like a champ ever since.

--Andrew

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WilberMaker
Thanks for the help guys. Only had a little time to play with it yesterday. The head will still not go to bed center for homing Z. Strange thing is when I give it (G1 x100) the head moves very slow with funny sound and only travels about half the distance. the display shows x at 100 but it is not in center. Same thing happens with Y. However, it will home Z in this position. The printer display thinks it is at 100,100 with the head closer to 50,50. When I give G29 the head moves over and puts the probe over 0,0 and attempts to probe.( will not work on corner of bed) I am wanting to say my offsets are correct and safe probing is working but I have something wrong with the Z homing not going to bed center and the head is trying to go off the bed. Also need to find why G1 not working. Thinking maybe G1 is over-driving the steppers and they are skipping steps? Hope this makes since.

WilberMaker

Edit: I tried moving the head to 0,0 with the Repeiter toggle buttons and homing Z at true 100,100 and the sensor still goes over 0,0 and attempts to probe. I did see that a M119 shows the MAX endstops triggered. Is this right or do they need to be turned off?