Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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Bert3D

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UltiFix
So let me get this straight, there are 2 kinds of autolevel, one were this are servos moving the bed, and the other is a sensor and the z axis just moves up and down to compensate for bed level changes, im assuming the second choice is cheaper. Right? What are most of you guys doing?

No, the servo method has a servo mounted on the print head, with an arm attached and an endstop type switch on the end of the arm. When it is time to home Z, or probe, the servo arm swings down and the head lowers until the switch closes. When the probing is done, the servo arm goes up, so the switch is out of the way, and the head can go on down to print.

I don't have a good photo, but you can see it in this one:

3dprinter.jpg

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sonnylowe

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UltiFix

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Bert3D

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peeejayz

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sonnylowe

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therippa
So I just ordered a BLTouch to replace my inductive sensor, would someone mind updating the wiki page with the basic instructions?

Done

Are they that much better than inductive sensors? Just wondering it its worth getting one. I have an inductive on the way, but if its better I'll keep the inductive as a spare.

That's what I was wondering as well. I have a BLTouch on the way, and I'm sure it is better than the servo setup I'm using now, and should be easier than the switch to an aluminum print bed to make an inductive sensor work.

If you have a working inductive sensor setup, the only advantage I can see would be that it measures to the top of the surface, where the inductive sensor measures to the metal plate. That means you need to insure whatever you put on top of the metal plate is always the same thickness. That's probably not really a huge limitation, but one time I accidentally put my glass plate on top of one of the corner screw heads, and because the autolevel probed it and just adjusted, I didn't even notice it wasn't flat. Prints worked fine anyway. If it was sensing the bed underneath, that would have been a problem.

I haven't gotten my BLTouch, or tried an inductive setup, so I'd love to hear from others how they have worked for them.

So let me get this straight, there are 2 kinds of autolevel, one were this are servos moving the bed, and the other is a sensor and the z axis just moves up and down to compensate for bed level changes, im assuming the second choice is cheaper. Right? What are most of you guys doing?

They both work exactly the same, they just use different means to check the levelness of the bed. Either way the Z motor make the adjustment while printing.

The BLtouch and Servo/Micro Switch Setup work by actually touching the surface you are printing on. An Inductive Proximity Sensor measure how close you are to a metallic surface without actually touching it. A Capacitive Sensor measure density changes in almost anything, so it can read the glass, BuildTak, or possibly the Kapton Tape surface, otherwise it works just like the Inductive Sensor. If you look through the thread you will find lots of info and lots of opinions on both.

As far as cost, the Inductive Sensor and BLtouch cost about the same if you buy an aluminum build plate. If you can find the Capacitive Sensor I suggested earlier it can be as little as $15.00 with no need to buy any other build plate material.

There is success with all three setups, every person running them likes their choice for one reason or another, they all do the basically the same thing, it's really just your preference...

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Jim72
I have a question regarding printing. Still waiting on parts to get this going. My question is this. I have read where people will set their firmware to print at 0.1mm or 0.2mm for better quality. The printer comes with a 0.4mm extruder tip, does this need to be changed to a smaller opening to facilitate printing thinner layers?

Thanks, Jim

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Jim72
I have a question regarding printing. Still waiting on parts to get this going. My question is this. I have read where people will set their firmware to print at 0.1mm or 0.2mm for better quality. The printer comes with a 0.4mm extruder tip, does this need to be changed to a smaller opening to facilitate printing thinner layers?

Thanks, Jim

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UltiFix

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sonnylowe

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UltiFix

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Bert3D

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peeejayz

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sonnylowe

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therippa
So I just ordered a BLTouch to replace my inductive sensor, would someone mind updating the wiki page with the basic instructions?

Done

Are they that much better than inductive sensors? Just wondering it its worth getting one. I have an inductive on the way, but if its better I'll keep the inductive as a spare.

That's what I was wondering as well. I have a BLTouch on the way, and I'm sure it is better than the servo setup I'm using now, and should be easier than the switch to an aluminum print bed to make an inductive sensor work.

If you have a working inductive sensor setup, the only advantage I can see would be that it measures to the top of the surface, where the inductive sensor measures to the metal plate. That means you need to insure whatever you put on top of the metal plate is always the same thickness. That's probably not really a huge limitation, but one time I accidentally put my glass plate on top of one of the corner screw heads, and because the autolevel probed it and just adjusted, I didn't even notice it wasn't flat. Prints worked fine anyway. If it was sensing the bed underneath, that would have been a problem.

I haven't gotten my BLTouch, or tried an inductive setup, so I'd love to hear from others how they have worked for them.

So let me get this straight, there are 2 kinds of autolevel, one were this are servos moving the bed, and the other is a sensor and the z axis just moves up and down to compensate for bed level changes, im assuming the second choice is cheaper. Right? What are most of you guys doing?

They both work exactly the same, they just use different means to check the levelness of the bed. Either way the Z motor make the adjustment while printing.

The BLtouch and Servo/Micro Switch Setup work by actually touching the surface you are printing on. An Inductive Proximity Sensor measure how close you are to a metallic surface without actually touching it. A Capacitive Sensor measure density changes in almost anything, so it can read the glass, BuildTak, or possibly the Kapton Tape surface, otherwise it works just like the Inductive Sensor. If you look through the thread you will find lots of info and lots of opinions on both.

As far as cost, the Inductive Sensor and BLtouch cost about the same if you buy an aluminum build plate. If you can find the Capacitive Sensor I suggested earlier it can be as little as $15.00 with no need to buy any other build plate material.

There is success with all three setups, every person running them likes their choice for one reason or another, they all do the basically the same thing, it's really just your preference...

Awesome! I will go back and find the capactive sensor and favorite it, once I get this printer running im going to go upgrade crazy

EDIT:
Goodness, the search function is awful!

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Bert3D

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UltiFix
So let me get this straight, there are 2 kinds of autolevel, one were this are servos moving the bed, and the other is a sensor and the z axis just moves up and down to compensate for bed level changes, im assuming the second choice is cheaper. Right? What are most of you guys doing?

No, the servo method has a servo mounted on the print head, with an arm attached and an endstop type switch on the end of the arm. When it is time to home Z, or probe, the servo arm swings down and the head lowers until the switch closes. When the probing is done, the servo arm goes up, so the switch is out of the way, and the head can go on down to print.

I don't have a good photo, but you can see it in this one:

3dprinter.jpg

Quote
Mach

Quote
UltiFix

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
UltiFix

Quote
Bert3D

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peeejayz

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sonnylowe

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therippa
So I just ordered a BLTouch to replace my inductive sensor, would someone mind updating the wiki page with the basic instructions?

Done

Are they that much better than inductive sensors? Just wondering it its worth getting one. I have an inductive on the way, but if its better I'll keep the inductive as a spare.

That's what I was wondering as well. I have a BLTouch on the way, and I'm sure it is better than the servo setup I'm using now, and should be easier than the switch to an aluminum print bed to make an inductive sensor work.

If you have a working inductive sensor setup, the only advantage I can see would be that it measures to the top of the surface, where the inductive sensor measures to the metal plate. That means you need to insure whatever you put on top of the metal plate is always the same thickness. That's probably not really a huge limitation, but one time I accidentally put my glass plate on top of one of the corner screw heads, and because the autolevel probed it and just adjusted, I didn't even notice it wasn't flat. Prints worked fine anyway. If it was sensing the bed underneath, that would have been a problem.

I haven't gotten my BLTouch, or tried an inductive setup, so I'd love to hear from others how they have worked for them.

So let me get this straight, there are 2 kinds of autolevel, one were this are servos moving the bed, and the other is a sensor and the z axis just moves up and down to compensate for bed level changes, im assuming the second choice is cheaper. Right? What are most of you guys doing?

They both work exactly the same, they just use different means to check the levelness of the bed. Either way the Z motor make the adjustment while printing.

The BLtouch and Servo/Micro Switch Setup work by actually touching the surface you are printing on. An Inductive Proximity Sensor measure how close you are to a metallic surface without actually touching it. A Capacitive Sensor measure density changes in almost anything, so it can read the glass, BuildTak, or possibly the Kapton Tape surface, otherwise it works just like the Inductive Sensor. If you look through the thread you will find lots of info and lots of opinions on both.

As far as cost, the Inductive Sensor and BLtouch cost about the same if you buy an aluminum build plate. If you can find the Capacitive Sensor I suggested earlier it can be as little as $15.00 with no need to buy any other build plate material.

There is success with all three setups, every person running them likes their choice for one reason or another, they all do the basically the same thing, it's really just your preference...

Awesome! I will go back and find the capactive sensor and favorite it, once I get this printer running im going to go upgrade crazy

EDIT:
Goodness, the search function is awful!

lol, I would agree it is pretty bad. Animoose made a custom google search for the thread that works much better.

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marc2912

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Bert3D

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UltiFix
So let me get this straight, there are 2 kinds of autolevel, one were this are servos moving the bed, and the other is a sensor and the z axis just moves up and down to compensate for bed level changes, im assuming the second choice is cheaper. Right? What are most of you guys doing?

No, the servo method has a servo mounted on the print head, with an arm attached and an endstop type switch on the end of the arm. When it is time to home Z, or probe, the servo arm swings down and the head lowers until the switch closes. When the probing is done, the servo arm goes up, so the switch is out of the way, and the head can go on down to print.

I don't have a good photo, but you can see it in this one:

3dprinter.jpg

Is that print ABS? I'm printing on glass the same way and can't stop the warping on the corners.

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Mach
lol, I would agree it is pretty bad. Animoose made a custom google search for the thread that works much better.

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Bert3D

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Mach
lol, I would agree it is pretty bad. Animoose made a custom google search for the thread that works much better.

I agree that the forum search is less than worthless. We should link his search in our sigs, just like the wiki. And maybe put it on the wiki, if he doesn't mind.

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animoose

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Bert3D

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Mach
lol, I would agree it is pretty bad. Animoose made a custom google search for the thread that works much better.

I agree that the forum search is less than worthless. We should link his search in our sigs, just like the wiki. And maybe put it on the wiki, if he doesn't mind.

There is a different link that I would prefer:
[cse.google.com]
I set up the original search engine using my work account, and the new one with my personal account. The work account would go away if I left the company, while the personal one should stay around indefinitely.

BTW, setting these up is really easy - it takes about 2 minutes.

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nobrakes
M119 shows all endstops open, min and max, Is this correct ?

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nobrakes
Manually pressing the stop and sending M119 does nothing, no report ?

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nobrakes
Yes I can manually move everything, do they all need to be triggered to get the report ?

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sonnylowe

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UltiFix

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Bert3D

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peeejayz

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sonnylowe

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therippa
So I just ordered a BLTouch to replace my inductive sensor, would someone mind updating the wiki page with the basic instructions?

Done

Are they that much better than inductive sensors? Just wondering it its worth getting one. I have an inductive on the way, but if its better I'll keep the inductive as a spare.

That's what I was wondering as well. I have a BLTouch on the way, and I'm sure it is better than the servo setup I'm using now, and should be easier than the switch to an aluminum print bed to make an inductive sensor work.

If you have a working inductive sensor setup, the only advantage I can see would be that it measures to the top of the surface, where the inductive sensor measures to the metal plate. That means you need to insure whatever you put on top of the metal plate is always the same thickness. That's probably not really a huge limitation, but one time I accidentally put my glass plate on top of one of the corner screw heads, and because the autolevel probed it and just adjusted, I didn't even notice it wasn't flat. Prints worked fine anyway. If it was sensing the bed underneath, that would have been a problem.

I haven't gotten my BLTouch, or tried an inductive setup, so I'd love to hear from others how they have worked for them.

So let me get this straight, there are 2 kinds of autolevel, one were this are servos moving the bed, and the other is a sensor and the z axis just moves up and down to compensate for bed level changes, im assuming the second choice is cheaper. Right? What are most of you guys doing?

They both work exactly the same, they just use different means to check the levelness of the bed. Either way the Z motor make the adjustment while printing.

The BLtouch and Servo/Micro Switch Setup work by actually touching the surface you are printing on. An Inductive Proximity Sensor measure how close you are to a metallic surface without actually touching it. A Capacitive Sensor measure density changes in almost anything, so it can read the glass, BuildTak, or possibly the Kapton Tape surface, otherwise it works just like the Inductive Sensor. If you look through the thread you will find lots of info and lots of opinions on both.

As far as cost, the Inductive Sensor and BLtouch cost about the same if you buy an aluminum build plate. If you can find the Capacitive Sensor I suggested earlier it can be as little as $15.00 with no need to buy any other build plate material.

There is success with all three setups, every person running them likes their choice for one reason or another, they all do the basically the same thing, it's really just your preference...

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nobrakes
No joy, tried with all tripped as well.

Thanks by the way.

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nobrakes
Reflashed it shows them open but nothing when closed ? I sure would like to print something !
Maybe a bad RAMPS I will send an email to FT, it's a new build.

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UltiFix

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sonnylowe

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UltiFix

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Bert3D

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peeejayz

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sonnylowe

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therippa
So I just ordered a BLTouch to replace my inductive sensor, would someone mind updating the wiki page with the basic instructions?

Done

Are they that much better than inductive sensors? Just wondering it its worth getting one. I have an inductive on the way, but if its better I'll keep the inductive as a spare.

That's what I was wondering as well. I have a BLTouch on the way, and I'm sure it is better than the servo setup I'm using now, and should be easier than the switch to an aluminum print bed to make an inductive sensor work.

If you have a working inductive sensor setup, the only advantage I can see would be that it measures to the top of the surface, where the inductive sensor measures to the metal plate. That means you need to insure whatever you put on top of the metal plate is always the same thickness. That's probably not really a huge limitation, but one time I accidentally put my glass plate on top of one of the corner screw heads, and because the autolevel probed it and just adjusted, I didn't even notice it wasn't flat. Prints worked fine anyway. If it was sensing the bed underneath, that would have been a problem.

I haven't gotten my BLTouch, or tried an inductive setup, so I'd love to hear from others how they have worked for them.

So let me get this straight, there are 2 kinds of autolevel, one were this are servos moving the bed, and the other is a sensor and the z axis just moves up and down to compensate for bed level changes, im assuming the second choice is cheaper. Right? What are most of you guys doing?

They both work exactly the same, they just use different means to check the levelness of the bed. Either way the Z motor make the adjustment while printing.

The BLtouch and Servo/Micro Switch Setup work by actually touching the surface you are printing on. An Inductive Proximity Sensor measure how close you are to a metallic surface without actually touching it. A Capacitive Sensor measure density changes in almost anything, so it can read the glass, BuildTak, or possibly the Kapton Tape surface, otherwise it works just like the Inductive Sensor. If you look through the thread you will find lots of info and lots of opinions on both.

As far as cost, the Inductive Sensor and BLtouch cost about the same if you buy an aluminum build plate. If you can find the Capacitive Sensor I suggested earlier it can be as little as $15.00 with no need to buy any other build plate material.

There is success with all three setups, every person running them likes their choice for one reason or another, they all do the basically the same thing, it's really just your preference...

Awesome! I will go back and find the capactive sensor and favorite it, once I get this printer running im going to go upgrade crazy

EDIT:
Goodness, the search function is awful! I searched and went back and looked at previous pages and can't find it.
[www.ebay.com]
Would something like this work ok?

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peeejayz

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sonnylowe

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therippa
So I just ordered a BLTouch to replace my inductive sensor, would someone mind updating the wiki page with the basic instructions?

Done

Are they that much better than inductive sensors? Just wondering it its worth getting one. I have an inductive on the way, but if its better I'll keep the inductive as a spare.

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Mach

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Zeegzeigler

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Mach

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Zeegzeigler
[qoute=Mach]

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Zeegzeigler
Move your X and Y endstop connector one place to the left on the ramps board. The printer will not move until you homes it. If the endstops are not setup properly, the printer will hit them, and then keep trying to move in that direction since it will never get the signal to stop. If you ever want to move your endstops, look at the comments I added in the configs above and that should give you a good idea what to uncomment and comment.

thanks! so i do i just delete the old? i moved the end stops,ill have to do this part later hopefully works! thanks. is there a way to mount the x endstop on the left with the existing printed part? idont have acess to a printer right now. thanks!

The above configs are just segments of the endstop config section, so they replace of the configs that look similar to them, not the entire endstop section. You should be able to put the endstop holder that comes with the printer on the left until you can print a better one. Just keep in mind that the above config will have to be changed to match the printer if you put it on the left since it is set to be on the right.

thanks! ill keep in on the right for now,but for some reason the end stops still dont work. i moved them a,ll to the left 1 slot. so they are in 1,3 and 5. also the y home moved to the front of the printer,is that correct? ill see if i can start to understand what the configs mean lol. i really appreciate the help.

Move only the X and Y connectors if you want the Z to home to the bottom. If the Y endstop is in the back, but the bed moves to the front, just reverse the Y motor connector on the ramps.