Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 07, 2016 12:12PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 367 |
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UltiFix
I did try going through netfabb How did you learn to use blender? Can you reccomend a good youtube series on learning it?Quote
animoose
Might be the normals pointing the wrong way. That is, the faces of the inset portion might be pointing inwards rather than outwards. The fact that the faces are colored differently and you can see the grid showing through suggests something like this is wrong. I don't know sketchup, so I don't know if you can check and fix this (you can in Blender, which is what I usually use). Also try putting it through netfabb.azurewebsites.net to see if that fixes it.
It seems to have a huge learning curve..
an idea for my X carriage and Z axis February 07, 2016 12:47PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 20 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 07, 2016 01:40PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 70 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 07, 2016 02:07PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 314 |
When my extruder was clicking my extruder had gotten so close to the bed it wouldn't actually extrude anything... Once I lifted it off of the bed it extruded fine.Quote
Mopar99
So I have issues this morning, I didn't get a hole lot of time to diagnose it before heading out. I went to print an item and the extruder motor started clicking. So I stop the print and move the extrude to a clear spot to run a few quick test on. It wasn't extruding like normal so tweak the driver board pot a little to see if that help and swapped drive boards. None of that work. Thinking later when I get back home, taking it apart and check it for blockage. Also planning on testing the extrude motor on the x axis. So if none that works, where is a good source to get motors from. Looking at Amazon, simple due to having a prime account, but may go a different way depending suggest.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 07, 2016 02:17PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 70 |
Quote
UltiFix
When my extruder was clicking my extruder had gotten so close to the bed it wouldn't actually extrude anything... Once I lifted it off of the bed it extruded fine.Quote
Mopar99
So I have issues this morning, I didn't get a hole lot of time to diagnose it before heading out. I went to print an item and the extruder motor started clicking. So I stop the print and move the extrude to a clear spot to run a few quick test on. It wasn't extruding like normal so tweak the driver board pot a little to see if that help and swapped drive boards. None of that work. Thinking later when I get back home, taking it apart and check it for blockage. Also planning on testing the extrude motor on the x axis. So if none that works, where is a good source to get motors from. Looking at Amazon, simple due to having a prime account, but may go a different way depending suggest.
Re: an idea for my X carriage and Z axis February 07, 2016 03:03PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 130 |
Quote
buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.
On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)
before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...
thanks
buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos
Re: an idea for my X carriage and Z axis February 07, 2016 04:07PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.
On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)
before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...
thanks
buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos
Re: an idea for my X carriage and Z axis February 07, 2016 04:52PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 131 |
Quote
msaeger
Quote
buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.
On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)
before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...
thanks
buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos
I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?
Re: an idea for my X carriage and Z axis February 07, 2016 04:58PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
marc2912
Quote
msaeger
Quote
buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.
On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)
before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...
thanks
buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos
I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?
If I'm understanding it the same way as you I don't know how well that would work. If one of the the axis stepper misses a step, the impact on z would be minimal with screws, to the point that even when calibrating you wouldn't notice it. Switching both z axis steppers to belt drive and other events missing a step or worse, the belt skipping a tooth would have a much larger impact and effect on prints. I would keep the z upgrade to acme threaded rods. Also belts lifting a vertical are much more likely to slip that belts on an horizontal.
Re: an idea for my X carriage and Z axis February 07, 2016 05:00PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 131 |
Quote
msaeger
Quote
marc2912
Quote
msaeger
Quote
buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.
On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)
before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...
thanks
buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos
I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?
If I'm understanding it the same way as you I don't know how well that would work. If one of the the axis stepper misses a step, the impact on z would be minimal with screws, to the point that even when calibrating you wouldn't notice it. Switching both z axis steppers to belt drive and other events missing a step or worse, the belt skipping a tooth would have a much larger impact and effect on prints. I would keep the z upgrade to acme threaded rods. Also belts lifting a vertical are much more likely to slip that belts on an horizontal.
I wasn't thinking you would not have the screws. I was thinking you would just use the rails to eliminate the smooth rods and linear bearings.
Possible hotend thermister problem? February 07, 2016 05:07PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 12 |
Re: an idea for my X carriage and Z axis February 07, 2016 05:14PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 20 |
Quote
msaeger
Quote
marc2912
Quote
msaeger
Quote
buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.
On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)
before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...
thanks
buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos
I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?
If I'm understanding it the same way as you I don't know how well that would work. If one of the the axis stepper misses a step, the impact on z would be minimal with screws, to the point that even when calibrating you wouldn't notice it. Switching both z axis steppers to belt drive and other events missing a step or worse, the belt skipping a tooth would have a much larger impact and effect on prints. I would keep the z upgrade to acme threaded rods. Also belts lifting a vertical are much more likely to slip that belts on an horizontal.
I wasn't thinking you would not have the screws. I was thinking you would just use the rails to eliminate the smooth rods and linear bearings.
Re: Possible hotend thermister problem? February 07, 2016 07:07PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Quote
JustAGuy
Hey all.
Had my first real malfunction today and am not really sure where to start on troubleshooting. Started a print and went to take the girls to the mall. Came back and found that the printer had stopped shortly after I left. Only about 1.5 layers of the print were done and the nozzle was stuck in the nylon filament that had already been layed down. LCD panel said Error:Mintemp.
Hmmm. Never seen that before. So I freed the nozzle and homed X, Y and Z. Used Repetier manual control to turn on the hotend, which at this time was at room temp. Reading the repetier display, the temp of the hotend gets to about 80C and instantly goes to 0 and LCD display now reads Error:Mintemp. This is repeatable.
Any Ideas where to start troubleshooting?
Thanks
Sam
Re: an idea for my X carriage and Z axis February 07, 2016 07:09PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
marc2912
Quote
msaeger
Quote
marc2912
Quote
msaeger
Quote
buffcleb
I'm planning on doing the v-slot upgrade for my X & Y axis. Y axis is pretty simple and straight forward.
On the X axis I've been looking at this Folgertech Prusa i3 2020 X-Axis Upgrade (Openbuilds V-Slot Rail System) and thinking... why not use the( OpenRail Linear rail on the vertical towers and mount the x axis between them? I can use a gantry plates on both sides, have the X axis rail shorter with mounting brackets that hold a bearing on each gantry to act as an idler/tensioner for the belt, mount the x axis stepper on the back of the z axis rail. I could move the power supply and electronics to the outside of the frame. this would allow me to move all the parts inside of the frame on the left and right side (I eventually plan to build a box as the ambient temp of my basement is 13c - I would mount the power supply and ramps outside the box for cooling)
before I start drawing this up I want to see if anyone else has thought of doing this... of if someone already has... no need to re-invent the wheel...
thanks
buffcleb
My Folgertech i3 build videos
I need to see a picture So you are saying you would need three of these then? [openbuildspartstore.com] one on each vertical rail and one to mount the hotend/extruder on?
If I'm understanding it the same way as you I don't know how well that would work. If one of the the axis stepper misses a step, the impact on z would be minimal with screws, to the point that even when calibrating you wouldn't notice it. Switching both z axis steppers to belt drive and other events missing a step or worse, the belt skipping a tooth would have a much larger impact and effect on prints. I would keep the z upgrade to acme threaded rods. Also belts lifting a vertical are much more likely to slip that belts on an horizontal.
I wasn't thinking you would not have the screws. I was thinking you would just use the rails to eliminate the smooth rods and linear bearings.
Unless you've had issues with your z axis I'd leave it as is filed I was you, z barely moves and I've yet to see someone have problems with it.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 07, 2016 08:10PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 22 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 07, 2016 08:19PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 314 |
My glass bed heats up really quick, if I hit print my nozzle and bed heat up in about 5-10 minutes maybe? Haven't timed it... And thats with the bed heating up, then holding temp while the extruder heats up, not sure why they don't both heat at once?Quote
thebabymaker
I've had a lot of clogs lately - mostly because the nozzle has been scraping on my aluminum bed and clogging it up with aluminum shavings! I have been using a steel acoustic guitar E string to clear it.. i just stick it on, floss it a little then press down the level on the extruder and push the filament through. It's actually been working extremely well.
As for the scraping, for some reason my 8mm induction sensor moves up slightly after awhile until it stops sensing the plate, then my z grinds into aluminum... does this happen to anyone? I've tried tightening the nuts on the probe, it holds for a bit. It just happened again so i decided to mount the sensor even closer to bed and increasing my z offset.
Question regarding heated beds - its taking about 50 minutes to heat up to 100C with an aluminum bed.. i've added a cork board underneath the heater and a book on top, it still takes a loooong time. Is this normal? I've enable PIDTEMBED and tried running a PID autotune at 90 - it times out before i get there. I've preheated to about 85 then ran the autotune and got some values that i put into marlin, doesnt seem to help.
Is there anything else I can do? Could it be a defective board or bad soldering? I was very intentional in making sure the wire was hitting both contacts when soldering. What model HBP ships with the kit? I'm wondering if i should get a new HBP. Would a 24v HBP work with this kit without any major modifications?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 07, 2016 08:35PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Quote
UltiFix
My glass bed heats up really quick, if I hit print my nozzle and bed heat up in about 5-10 minutes maybe? Haven't timed it... And thats with the bed heating up, then holding temp while the extruder heats up, not sure why they don't both heat at once?Quote
thebabymaker
I've had a lot of clogs lately - mostly because the nozzle has been scraping on my aluminum bed and clogging it up with aluminum shavings! I have been using a steel acoustic guitar E string to clear it.. i just stick it on, floss it a little then press down the level on the extruder and push the filament through. It's actually been working extremely well.
As for the scraping, for some reason my 8mm induction sensor moves up slightly after awhile until it stops sensing the plate, then my z grinds into aluminum... does this happen to anyone? I've tried tightening the nuts on the probe, it holds for a bit. It just happened again so i decided to mount the sensor even closer to bed and increasing my z offset.
Question regarding heated beds - its taking about 50 minutes to heat up to 100C with an aluminum bed.. i've added a cork board underneath the heater and a book on top, it still takes a loooong time. Is this normal? I've enable PIDTEMBED and tried running a PID autotune at 90 - it times out before i get there. I've preheated to about 85 then ran the autotune and got some values that i put into marlin, doesnt seem to help.
Is there anything else I can do? Could it be a defective board or bad soldering? I was very intentional in making sure the wire was hitting both contacts when soldering. What model HBP ships with the kit? I'm wondering if i should get a new HBP. Would a 24v HBP work with this kit without any major modifications?
Re: Possible hotend thermister problem? February 07, 2016 08:42PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 12 |
Re: Possible hotend thermister problem? February 07, 2016 08:53PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
JustAGuy
Well, did a little experiment. Started with a room temp printer....had been unplugged for a couple of hours. Homed all three x,y and z. Turned on the bed via repetier manual control with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 60C. Took 1 min, 36 seconds to heat. Left the bed heated and turned on the hot end with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 200C. It heated for 21 seconds before going to 0 in the display. It was to around 55C or so before it quit. And the heat block is, in fact, getting hot.
Oh, and by the way, the LCD said Err: MINTEMP as soon as I plugged it in.
Suggestions?
Re: Possible hotend thermister problem? February 07, 2016 09:28PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 12 |
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msaeger
Quote
JustAGuy
Well, did a little experiment. Started with a room temp printer....had been unplugged for a couple of hours. Homed all three x,y and z. Turned on the bed via repetier manual control with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 60C. Took 1 min, 36 seconds to heat. Left the bed heated and turned on the hot end with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 200C. It heated for 21 seconds before going to 0 in the display. It was to around 55C or so before it quit. And the heat block is, in fact, getting hot.
Oh, and by the way, the LCD said Err: MINTEMP as soon as I plugged it in.
Suggestions?
The thermistor is shorting someplace. Try and see if you can find where the short is or ask Folger for a new hotend if you haven't had the printer long.
Re: Possible hotend thermister problem? February 07, 2016 09:46PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
JustAGuy
That was it. Removed the thermistor from the heat block and cut the clear heatshrink off of it. As soon as I did, one of the wires came out of the insulation near the thermistor end. Going to order one from Ebay simply because I don't want to wait on folger to send it whenever they can.
Quote
msaeger
Quote
JustAGuy
Well, did a little experiment. Started with a room temp printer....had been unplugged for a couple of hours. Homed all three x,y and z. Turned on the bed via repetier manual control with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 60C. Took 1 min, 36 seconds to heat. Left the bed heated and turned on the hot end with a starting temp of 22C and a target temp of 200C. It heated for 21 seconds before going to 0 in the display. It was to around 55C or so before it quit. And the heat block is, in fact, getting hot.
Oh, and by the way, the LCD said Err: MINTEMP as soon as I plugged it in.
Suggestions?
The thermistor is shorting someplace. Try and see if you can find where the short is or ask Folger for a new hotend if you haven't had the printer long.
Re: Possible hotend thermister problem? February 07, 2016 09:54PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 12 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 07, 2016 10:24PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 70 |
Quote
Mopar99
Quote
UltiFix
When my extruder was clicking my extruder had gotten so close to the bed it wouldn't actually extrude anything... Once I lifted it off of the bed it extruded fine.Quote
Mopar99
So I have issues this morning, I didn't get a hole lot of time to diagnose it before heading out. I went to print an item and the extruder motor started clicking. So I stop the print and move the extrude to a clear spot to run a few quick test on. It wasn't extruding like normal so tweak the driver board pot a little to see if that help and swapped drive boards. None of that work. Thinking later when I get back home, taking it apart and check it for blockage. Also planning on testing the extrude motor on the x axis. So if none that works, where is a good source to get motors from. Looking at Amazon, simple due to having a prime account, but may go a different way depending suggest.
Mine is doing it 10 mm above the bed... So I'm hope it's just clogged even though I did turn the temp up on the hot end to help move things along. Really wanting to swap out the brass gear and bearing for a different setup... Just don't like the bearing having a grove in it. I keep waiting for the filament to get caught in it.
Re: Possible hotend thermister problem? February 07, 2016 10:26PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
[/quote]Quote
JustAGuy
I've been meaning to do the research on that. Can you recommend a good place to get one and some idea of what other parts I'm gonna need?
Nows your excuse to get an e3d ☺️
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 07, 2016 10:48PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 314 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 08, 2016 03:53AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Re: Possible hotend thermister problem? February 08, 2016 07:36AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 12 |
Quote
msaeger
Quote
JustAGuy
I've been meaning to do the research on that. Can you recommend a good place to get one and some idea of what other parts I'm gonna need?
Nows your excuse to get an e3d ☺️
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 08, 2016 08:18AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 25 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 08, 2016 10:40AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 9 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) February 08, 2016 10:50AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 9 |