Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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marc2912

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iamquestar

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Keary123
Quick question for anyone using S3D and an auto leveling probe.

I have my probe working perfectly with Cura/Slicer but since switching over to S3D my prints are off centered. Lets say I place an item in the middle of my bed and slice it, it appears to be in the center on S3D but when the print actually starts it is around 40mm to the right of the center mark. I was wondering if it has something to do with the extruder/probe offsets in the Marlin configuration.h code. I haven't had time to mess with offset settings in the software yet so I figured I would see if anyone has had a similar problem.

Also TheRippa, I finally scrapped my bowden extruder and switched over to your TinyFlex Extruder, it is working amazing to say the least. I also remixed your design to fit a 18mm OD capacitance sensor. If anyone wants the files let me know, the sensor is working great with my glass/pei print bed, it is linked below.

Thanks for the help.

[www.amazon.com]

I'd love to get those files. I've been very frustrated with the bowden (I just can't get the right retraction settings). I'm ready to go back to direct, and have a 18mm sensor.

Out of curiosity why did you switch to bowden in the first place?

I switched in the mis-guided attempt to lighten the carriage as much as possible. Initially I wanted to lighten things up due to the sag of the hot end I was seeing in the middle of the x-axis (only about .1-.15 mm, but this made bed leveling impossible). I upgraded to the v-slot x-axis, and while I was confident the extra stiffness would take care of any sag, I received the parts all around the same time, so still made the switch to bowden, thinking that it would allow me to push the print speeds (the lower mass allowing the x movement to go faster without having to up the current on the motor to avoid missed steps). Add to that the thought that I may go to a dual extruder bowden setup down the road, I figured, "why not?". I now know why not.

The frustrating thing to me is that it's a proven technology, used successfully by many printers, but I have had nothing but trouble. I feel it's all related to the retraction settings, and may keep trying to tweak things for a few more days, but... we'll see.

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jhitesma

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Toxic0n
Did anyone else get a bag of jelly beans in their package?
A happy accident or a little reward for when I finish putting it together? My kit was missing all the M3x8mm screws, I guess this almost makes up for it.

Any advice on aligning the Z axis? I don't think mine are perfectly align as the movement on the Z axis is not as smooth and it feels like it is binding at the bottom part a bit.

If you can print reasonably well I'd suggest trying to print two of these: [www.thingiverse.com]

They really helped me dial in my Z alignment.

If nothing else at least take some measurements to make sure the two sides are as close as you can get them. I originally did this by lowering the Z to just a few mm above the bed and measuring from the lower X chrome rod to the table on both sides and manually turning the lead screws or threaded rods to get the two sides even.

However, when I saw these I realized that was a bad way to do it. Level to the table doesn't matter. It's getting the X and Y motion axes even that matters (bed level can play into this as well but is a separate issue.) So these are nice because they give a quick way to confirm that the lower X chrome rod is even to the two Y chrome rods. You can do the same thing measuring with calipers...but I found it much quicker and more repeatable to use these. I just put them on the two Y rods then slowly lower the Z until one of the X just touches the top of one measuring tool. Then manually turn the screw/rod of the other Z until the other one just touches equally. Once they both match I did one of these to test:

[www.thingiverse.com]

Adjusting to the table my diagonals on there were close but slightly off. Probably acceptable for most people but I'm looking to do fairly high precision parts so I keep trying to improve. Adjusting with calipers between the rods I got closer but still had a slightly mismatch on the diagonals. Using the printed tools my test comes out with the diagonal measurements closer than my calipers can discern.

Printing those calibration squares are pretty good way to go as jhitesma suggests.

Did you catch that the mounts for the z-steppers cannot be located properly if you attach the bottom bolts( I think a screw becomes a bolt with a t-nut attached)?

"Z axis motor mounting - The instructions call for using 3 screws and T nuts to mount each motor. This will result in a misaligned printer! The 3rd screw that goes into the vertical 20x20 extrusion should be left out and only the two that go into the top horizontal extrusion should be used. When fully assembled the two vertical chrome rods should be parallel to each other and the vertical frame."
from: [folgertech.wikia.com]

I manually bed level using an approach similar to this: [www.youtube.com]


I think the jelly beans are a reward for having to use tweezers and magnifying glasses to pick up 3 mm "Barbie" nuts.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2016 08:43PM by flatlander.

Haha yup, I saw that in the wiki. I read through most of this thread while waiting for the printer to arrive, lots of good info in here.

I will try messing with the rods tonight. I can't print yet but will be able to soon. Hopefully!

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Mach

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UltiFix
I am using autolevel as of saterday, do these look like a decen't upgrade set?
[www.banggood.com]

These might be a better option if you are in the U.S. The 250mm ones cost about the same, and are the perfect length Leadscrews

I am in the usa, Those looks great! thanks for posting!

Anything I need to know when replacing them? Will the same nut work?

Thanks!
-Sam

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2016 10:18PM by UltiFix.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

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iamquestar

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UltiFix
I am using autolevel as of saterday, do these look like a decen't upgrade set?
[www.banggood.com]

I bought those, and they are working well, although I wish I had purchased extra nuts at the time (I have them in route now) so I could set them up with in an anti-backlash setup. HOWEVER, I really wish I had bought these: (and will be ordering when I have some additional disposable cash)
[store.makerstoolworks.com]

The 8mm lead on the Banggood screws means 1/10 the steps (400) per mm when compared to the threaded rod. With this installed, those Z motors really don't move very far. I feel that any imperfections in the manufacturing of those could result in much bigger errors. The screws linked above are singe start, so the lead is 2mm, (1600 steps/mm) AND they come with delrin nuts, which I understand wear better than the brass, and are inherently non-backlash (can anyone confirm?). Also, those single start lead screws have their ends turned down to 5mm, so you don't need to replace the flex couplers.

Even though they are over twice the cost, I think it would be worth it, which is why I will be swapping them out in the next couple months.

--Andrew

Thanks!
I think im going to go with the ebay ones... 18 bucks for 1 is a bit steep.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

Can someone tell me where I would connect a print cooling fan to the ramps board so I can control it? I mean a layer cooling / print cooling fan not the fan on the cool block. Google is giving me mixed results.


Edit:

After trying a couple places I found D9 worked.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2016 10:54PM by msaeger.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Hey guys! Just got shipment of my 2020 kit earlier today. Must say, awesome job on the packaging! Entire printer plus 4 total rolls of abs and that box was rock solid! Certainly no worries of it coming apart mid shipment. Also it appears they didn't have a color of filament that I wanted, so I got 2 rolls of a different color! A free spool? I think I can live with a different color. These guys at Folger Tech have been nothing but awesome so far! Very highly recommend them for anyone on the fence!

Now, onto questions! I really only have a few so far, and they all boil down to the same thing. I have no experience with metric bolts/nuts/washers. And before 3D printers came about I had no idea what a T-nut was! So, the qusetion I have, is can there be a graphical way for us to identify the bolts/nuts in the kit? Right now I have a small table covered in screws, and a parts cabinet waiting to have it's drawers filled. But even with the calipers I just can't figure this out. Do I measure the whole bolt or just the shaft to get the size? And how do I tell the t-nuts apart? The hex keys obviously won't mesh with threaded holes! Also.. I've got 10 M4 bolts with VERY thick heads.. they stand out greatly compared to all the other bolts in the kit. But the package the bolts came in, doesn't mention a single M4 bolt that comes in a 10 count! I'll see if I can get a picture up with them. Once I can get the bolts sorted out this should be a breeze to put together otherwise!

Okay you wanted suggestions for the kits. I'll tell you a big one. For the love of all sanity.. PREPACKAGE THE BOLTS IN AT LEAST SAME M-SIZE BAGS! Here we are almost 8 hours after I started poking at this, maybe 10-15 minutes at a time with breaks in between.. has been spent doing nothing but sorting out the bolts/nuts/washers. Really! This has got to be the most aggrevating part of the build, for someone without a ton of experience with these things. I imagine handling m3 nuts/washers is going to be the other frustration, but I'm not sure how that can be designed out considering how many M3 bolts go into this! I'm up to nearly 30 M3 25mm pan head bolts, with like 7 of the 30mm ones. And I have no CLUE what these tiny black head-less shafts are for!

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MonolithTyriss
Okay you wanted suggestions for the kits. I'll tell you a big one. For the love of all sanity.. PREPACKAGE THE BOLTS IN AT LEAST SAME M-SIZE BAGS! Here we are almost 8 hours after I started poking at this, maybe 10-15 minutes at a time with breaks in between.. has been spent doing nothing but sorting out the bolts/nuts/washers. Really! This has got to be the most aggrevating part of the build, for someone without a ton of experience with these things. I imagine handling m3 nuts/washers is going to be the other frustration, but I'm not sure how that can be designed out considering how many M3 bolts go into this! I'm up to nearly 30 M3 25mm pan head bolts, with like 7 of the 30mm ones. And I have no CLUE what these tiny black head-less shafts are for!

The black head-less shafts are set screws for the z-movement steppers shaft to threaded rod couplers. I think really skilled people could build these things in a day. I wasn't test printing until the third day. All my measurement calipers are in inches. I sorted about 90% of my hardware into an egg carton, and left the rest in the lid.

If you can't handle the frustration of putting the right size nuts and bolts into muffin tin spaces, I see a long, frustrating time ahead of you!!! Right now, put everything down and go to Harbor Freight and buy a digital calipers that reads in both metric and American! They are cheap and I see them in many of the photos posted here. You WILL need them throughout your 3d printing 'career' to measure such things as wall thickness, diameters, distances on the machine, etc. While you are there get a set of feeler gauges, which is IMHO the easiest way to measure the nozzle to bed gap for setting zero. I know that means nothing to you now but it will.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

I have a big, pre-ABS usage, installation this weekend. I purchased a $15, 50-CFM bathroom fan to use as a fume extractor in my printer closet. It's way overkill but better safe than sorry. Hopefully I won't disturb the warmth around the print bed; a Plexiglas enclosure may be needed. Something with three sides that slides into the 2020 rail of the front 2/3's of the printer should do it.

My box-o-steppers arrived. Now the y-axis is cool with good torque

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2016 09:37AM by flatlander.

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MonolithTyriss
Okay you wanted suggestions for the kits. I'll tell you a big one. For the love of all sanity.. PREPACKAGE THE BOLTS IN AT LEAST SAME M-SIZE BAGS! Here we are almost 8 hours after I started poking at this, maybe 10-15 minutes at a time with breaks in between.. has been spent doing nothing but sorting out the bolts/nuts/washers. Really! This has got to be the most aggrevating part of the build, for someone without a ton of experience with these things. I imagine handling m3 nuts/washers is going to be the other frustration, but I'm not sure how that can be designed out considering how many M3 bolts go into this! I'm up to nearly 30 M3 25mm pan head bolts, with like 7 of the 30mm ones. And I have no CLUE what these tiny black head-less shafts are for!

You measure just the portion UNDER the head. Don't fret about the number of bolts. FT gives you MORE than you need. In fact, in my kit I have a huge pile of long bolts that were never needed. I cut them down to the size needed for other add ons.
I have to ask, as a newbe, why in the heck did you choose to start with ABS?!!!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2016 10:56AM by tjnamtiw.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

I just can't find the setting in Slic3r that would account for the layers being off by .5 mm allowing the hot filament to spill off the overhang ledge. It's almost like the filament has a swirl like a spin of a flushing toilet or the rotation of a hurricane. My nozzles are cleaned, with a 0.39 mm drill. When manually extruding, the filament extrudes straight down creating a tight spiraled pile.

If I rotate the Object 180 deg, the successive layers seem seat on the ledge of the prior layer. Would you increase the extrusion multiplier, and/or Overlap>infill/perimeters overlap. My infill perimeters/overlap is 15% should this be 50% or more? ..extrusion multiplier is 100%

I have some hiss and pop in my old PLA filament roll, it's near the end. Trying to sort overhang seems like a fair use for a dying roll.


The prints on the left were sliced with cura and the prints on the right were sliced with Slic3r. I tried, for the most part, to get all settings the same.

TIA

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2016 12:24PM by flatlander.

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MonolithTyriss
Hey guys! Just got shipment of my 2020 kit earlier today. Must say, awesome job on the packaging! Entire printer plus 4 total rolls of abs and that box was rock solid! Certainly no worries of it coming apart mid shipment. Also it appears they didn't have a color of filament that I wanted, so I got 2 rolls of a different color! A free spool? I think I can live with a different color. These guys at Folger Tech have been nothing but awesome so far! Very highly recommend them for anyone on the fence!

If you think that's generous just wait until you see how many screws you have left over at the end

Quote

Now, onto questions! I really only have a few so far, and they all boil down to the same thing. I have no experience with metric bolts/nuts/washers. And before 3D printers came about I had no idea what a T-nut was! So, the qusetion I have, is can there be a graphical way for us to identify the bolts/nuts in the kit? Right now I have a small table covered in screws, and a parts cabinet waiting to have it's drawers filled. But even with the calipers I just can't figure this out. Do I measure the whole bolt or just the shaft to get the size? And how do I tell the t-nuts apart? The hex keys obviously won't mesh with threaded holes! Also.. I've got 10 M4 bolts with VERY thick heads.. they stand out greatly compared to all the other bolts in the kit. But the package the bolts came in, doesn't mention a single M4 bolt that comes in a 10 count! I'll see if I can get a picture up with them. Once I can get the bolts sorted out this should be a breeze to put together otherwise!

I tried to cover a lot of this in my blog post about building the printer: [www.nevermindthesand.com]

As already mentioned it's the shaft that you measure, don't include the head.

To sort them I found it easiest to first divide them all up and not worry about the size/length just get all the same parts into piles, I used egg crates to organize them but a muffin tin or other type of compartmentalized container will work just as well.

Yeah, the parts list is pretty bogus as are the instructions. The wiki [folgertech.wikia.com] has a lot of great tips and I tried to cover some of the most glaring issues with photo in my second blog post about the printer: [www.nevermindthesand.com]

For the most part though don't stress over sizes it's all relative. You kind of have to develop a feel for what size is actually needed rather than refer to the instructions, but for the most part there's only one size that will work right for each step and it's not that hard to figure out on most steps.

Hang in there, sorting out the hardware really is one of the worst parts of the job! I think I spent almost as much time doing that as I did actually building. I'm one of the exceptions who built his crazy fast. I spent about 10 hours on physical construction but then another 6 figuring out firmware and software before my first print - I'll admit to having a bit of skill with mechanical stuff and software is my day job....but I'm also pretty sure it was 90% luck that resulted in my very first test print being a functional part that came off the printer about 26 hours after I opened the box. That I had spent close to 2 months reading every blog post and forum thread I could find about the Folger probably had a good bit to do with my quick success as well

I just put one of these things together and I'm starting to think that I have a bad power supply, and I'm hoping someone can clarify for me. I was able to flash the board and repartier connects just fine. However when using repartier the motors do not move at all. Additionally, on the power supply the fan does not run and the LED light is not lit. I used my multimeter to confirm that the line and Neutral contacts (8 & 9) show ~115V AC. However the DC voltage between the output contacts is measuring at only 0.75V. As I said I'm fairly certain this due to a bad power supply, but I'm curious if anyone else had any bright ideas. Thanks in advance.

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serks644
I just put one of these things together and I'm starting to think that I have a bad power supply, and I'm hoping someone can clarify for me. I was able to flash the board and repartier connects just fine. However when using repartier the motors do not move at all. Additionally, on the power supply the fan does not run and the LED light is not lit. I used my multimeter to confirm that the line and Neutral contacts (8 & 9) show ~115V AC. However the DC voltage between the output contacts is measuring at only 0.75V. As I said I'm fairly certain this due to a bad power supply, but I'm curious if anyone else had any bright ideas. Thanks in advance.

Yep, sure sounds like a bad power supply. The arduino will get power over the USB which is why you can flash it and connect with rep. But everything else sounds like a bad power supply.

Thanks for the help guys! Yeah, once I got the digital calipers I had around out, and started measuring right, everything finally came together for sorting out stuff. I used a big plastic parts cabinet, those little things with the translucent white plastic drawers you put nuts and bolts and small tools into? Yeah, sorted all my bolts and the like into it. Once I realized the bolts basically all came with extras things went so much more smoothly too! Also nabbed a set of very fine-ended long-nose pliers, those were invaluable! I would go so far as to say they should update the build guide to say metric calipers and good, small needlenose pliers are also required tools, especially for those less inclined to mechanical work.Oh and lighting.. can't stress enough to have GOOD lighting around your preferred work area! I will probably post again before this is done, I'm sure some part of the real build is going to aggravate me! ;D

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MonolithTyriss
Thanks for the help guys! Yeah, once I got the digital calipers I had around out, and started measuring right, everything finally came together for sorting out stuff. I used a big plastic parts cabinet, those little things with the translucent white plastic drawers you put nuts and bolts and small tools into? Yeah, sorted all my bolts and the like into it. Once I realized the bolts basically all came with extras things went so much more smoothly too! Also nabbed a set of very fine-ended long-nose pliers, those were invaluable! I would go so far as to say they should update the build guide to say metric calipers and good, small needlenose pliers are also required tools, especially for those less inclined to mechanical work.Oh and lighting.. can't stress enough to have GOOD lighting around your preferred work area! I will probably post again before this is done, I'm sure some part of the real build is going to aggravate me! ;D

Step 1 will annoy you. The bolts don't come with washers and fall through the holes in the two metal angle brackets. Fix : Use washers.

Changing #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.3 literally does nothing... Why?
Here is my configuration.h

ANY help is appreciated! Please?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2016 04:27PM by UltiFix.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

That means that your telling your printer that your bed leveling probe is only 0.3 mm above the level of your nozzle. When it probes for zero and senses the bed, it will bring the Z axis down an additional 0.3 mm when it's ready to print. You have to adjust this number until the distance at that point is the thickness of card stock or about 0.1 mm. What are you seeing? You say it's 'literally doing nothing'. Compared to what?

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
tjnamtiw
That means that your telling your printer that your bed leveling probe is only 0.3 mm above the level of your nozzle. When it probes for zero and senses the bed, it will bring the Z axis down an additional 0.3 mm when it's ready to print. You have to adjust this number until the distance at that point is the thickness of card stock or about 0.1 mm. What are you seeing? You say it's 'literally doing nothing'. Compared to what?

Thats exactly what im expecting it to do, lower the hotend past where the sensor says it should stop by .3mm

But it doesn't bring it down any lower, I even tried making it -.9 and a bunch of other numbers, whatever the number says the extruder doesn't go any lower.

It's bugging me... I can't even print because the the first layer isn't sticking to bed because the extruder is to high up.

So I mean it literally does nothing, changing the number makes no difference in how the printers acts. (no offence intended )
Thanks for the help!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2016 05:14PM by UltiFix.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

Quote
UltiFix
Changing #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.3 literally does nothing... Why?
Here is my configuration.h

ANY help is appreciated! Please?

you have the following in your Configuration.h file:
#ifdef CUSTOM_M_CODES
#define CUSTOM_M_CODE_SET_Z_PROBE_OFFSET 851
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -15
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX -5

I would change to:
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 1 // not sure it can be 0

//so that -0.3 is in range, i.e. -0.3 isn't between -15 an -5

//just looking at code I have no idea what the hardware is doing.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 03/11/2016 05:54PM by flatlander.

Quote
flatlander

Quote
UltiFix
Changing #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.3 literally does nothing... Why?
Here is my configuration.h

ANY help is appreciated! Please?

you have the following in your Configuration.h file
#ifdef CUSTOM_M_CODES
#define CUSTOM_M_CODE_SET_Z_PROBE_OFFSET 851
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -15
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX -5

I would change to
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 1 // not sure it can be 0

so that -0.3 is in range

//just looking at code I have no idea what the hardware is doing.

Changing that still doesn't fix it...
Any other ideas?
BTW:
I have been running g29, then g29z10 then m119 then I lower the extruder in .1mm untill the hotend just starts rubbing up against the paper. Lets say I had to click lower by .1mm 5 times, I set my z probe offset to -.5

is that right?

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

See! I knew I'd have to post again! I was building the lower frame.. got all the 2020 bars together.. then I hit a MAJOR SNAG! I don't have any set screws for the L brackets that hold the 2020 bars together!! Or if I do I can't tell what they are! Someone please help.. maybe my kit didn't ship with them?


The brackets in question. I don't remember seeing any screws included with these!

Quote
MonolithTyriss
See! I knew I'd have to post again! I was building the lower frame.. got all the 2020 bars together.. then I hit a MAJOR SNAG! I don't have any set screws for the L brackets that hold the 2020 bars together!! Or if I do I can't tell what they are! Someone please help.. maybe my kit didn't ship with them?

The brackets in question. I don't remember seeing any screws included with these!

Those headless M4? set screws. If not for the couplers they belong here. The couplers may already have them.

Quote
flatlander

Quote
MonolithTyriss
See! I knew I'd have to post again! I was building the lower frame.. got all the 2020 bars together.. then I hit a MAJOR SNAG! I don't have any set screws for the L brackets that hold the 2020 bars together!! Or if I do I can't tell what they are! Someone please help.. maybe my kit didn't ship with them?

The brackets in question. I don't remember seeing any screws included with these!

Those headless M4? set screws. If not for the couplers they belong here. The couplers may already have them.

I searched everywhere for mine until I realized they were already installed........... GRRRRRRRRRRRR

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
flatlander

Quote
UltiFix
Changing #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.3 literally does nothing... Why?
Here is my configuration.h

ANY help is appreciated! Please?

you have the following in your Configuration.h file:
#ifdef CUSTOM_M_CODES
#define CUSTOM_M_CODE_SET_Z_PROBE_OFFSET 851
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -15
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX -5

I would change to:
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 1 // not sure it can be 0

//so that -0.3 is in range, i.e. -0.3 isn't between -15 an -5

//just looking at code I have no idea what the hardware is doing.

Yea, good spotting. It won't allow anything outside of -5 to -15. Mine is >>>

#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
flatlander

Quote
UltiFix
Changing #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.3 literally does nothing... Why?
Here is my configuration.h

ANY help is appreciated! Please?

you have the following in your Configuration.h file:
#ifdef CUSTOM_M_CODES
#define CUSTOM_M_CODE_SET_Z_PROBE_OFFSET 851
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -15
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX -5

I would change to:
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 1 // not sure it can be 0

//so that -0.3 is in range, i.e. -0.3 isn't between -15 an -5

//just looking at code I have no idea what the hardware is doing.

Yea, good spotting. It won't allow anything outside of -5 to -15. Mine is >>>

#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20

Sadly, it still didn't fix it.

What other information can I provide? I really would like to get this fixed as my printer is currently not usable.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

[forums.reprap.org]
Created a thread for my auto level issues.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

Any recommendations for an upgraded Y carriage bearing holders? I'm not sold on the zip tie approach. I found one for X carriage, but nothing for Y.

Also, the right side X axis mount (where the motor is attached)? The rod holes were slightly too small so I had to dremel them out so I'd rather print a new one now.