First Print! March 14, 2016 09:19PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 12 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 14, 2016 09:19PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 130 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 15, 2016 12:14AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 16 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 15, 2016 09:01AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 130 |
Quote
pizzachef
Hey guys, I appreciate all the good info in this enormous thread. I've got my printer built and am going through calibration now. I used therippa's firmware, but had the following error messages when it was compiling the sketch:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Arduino: 1.6.8 (Windows XP), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:2667:36: warning: invalid suffix on literal; C++11 requires a space between literal and identifier [-Wliteral-suffix]
LCD_MESSAGEPGM(MACHINE_NAME" "MSG_OFF".");
^
sketch\temperature.cpp:565:50: warning: extra tokens at end of #ifdef directive [enabled by default]
#ifdef THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD && THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD > 0
^
Sketch uses 102,872 bytes (40%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253,952 bytes.
Global variables use 4,223 bytes (51%) of dynamic memory, leaving 3,969 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8,192 bytes.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am also getting a lot of checksum errors as well, but this probably has to do with the old XP machine I'm using, so it won't upload the firmware at all. I carried the printer upstairs to use a newer mac to upload the firmware and it connected fine, but still had the errors I copied above. Is this a problem that I need to address? I downloaded therippa's the other day so it should be current.
I'm also having some funny X-axis behavior. When moving the printer around manually, the X-direction loses its place. When I press X-home, it moves slightly to the left (instead of all the way to the right like normal). After I hit X-home, the printer thinks the carriage is at X-max and I can move it to the left, but it could be anywhere on the bed and I can move it farther than it should go. I've got the X endstop in the 6th position on the controller and the setting changed to MAX in Repetier, and sometimes it works fine. But if I start a print with the extruder in the middle of the bed, it goes to Y and Z homes, but not X, and the print is offset and can run off the edge of the bed. I can fix the problem by manually pushing the carriage to the X-home, hitting the X-home button, and then it moves around fine manually and will print fine.
Any ideas?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 15, 2016 09:30AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 12 |
Quote
pizzachef
Hey guys, I appreciate all the good info in this enormous thread. I've got my printer built and am going through calibration now. I used therippa's firmware, but had the following error messages when it was compiling the sketch:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Arduino: 1.6.8 (Windows XP), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:2667:36: warning: invalid suffix on literal; C++11 requires a space between literal and identifier [-Wliteral-suffix]
LCD_MESSAGEPGM(MACHINE_NAME" "MSG_OFF".");
^
sketch\temperature.cpp:565:50: warning: extra tokens at end of #ifdef directive [enabled by default]
#ifdef THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD && THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD > 0
^
Sketch uses 102,872 bytes (40%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253,952 bytes.
Global variables use 4,223 bytes (51%) of dynamic memory, leaving 3,969 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8,192 bytes.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 15, 2016 03:06PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 10 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 15, 2016 10:05PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 92 |
Quote
Toxic0n
So I've calibrated the extruder, adjusted the stepper voltages, printed out some new bearing holders, leveled the bed. I'm getting decent prints for boxy parts (mounts, end stops etc) but seeing some separation? on more complex objects.
Here's a Yoda I printed.
Folger ABS, 240/105c, 0.3mm layer height, 80mm/s printing speed, no support and 3 perimiter walls. About 20c ambient with some drafts.
[imgur.com]
Any suggestions?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 15, 2016 10:46PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 314 |
Here is an enclousure idea... I use this. Total cost probably around $20 (Can't remember the price of the box maybe $12?... And the plexiglass stuff I think costed around $7 Maybe? Then the bolts and nut's aren't much.) Only problem, it doesn't fit if the big clunky usb cable is sticking out the back of the arduino so I ordered a 90 degree angle usb cable so hopefully that will solve it. Also it's easy to remove, just take the bin offQuote
iamquestar
Quote
Toxic0n
So I've calibrated the extruder, adjusted the stepper voltages, printed out some new bearing holders, leveled the bed. I'm getting decent prints for boxy parts (mounts, end stops etc) but seeing some separation? on more complex objects.
Here's a Yoda I printed.
Folger ABS, 240/105c, 0.3mm layer height, 80mm/s printing speed, no support and 3 perimiter walls. About 20c ambient with some drafts.
[imgur.com]
Any suggestions?
Try slowing your speed or upping your temp. Generally the faster you print, the hotter your nozzle needs to be, because the plastic doesn't spend as much time in the hot end, so it's not getting heated as much.
I print at something like 50mm/s with FT ABS at 240/100c
Also, it could be caused by drafts. Try eliminating them.
I was reading something recently that said that it's hard to large ABS prints without some layer separation on an open printer due to layer cooling and shrinkage. Ideally you want your build changer to be quite warm, then cooled slowly when an ABS print is done. I plan on building an enclosure in the near future for mine, for this very reason. (full disclosure: I have printed little with ABS (15-20 prints) because of this issue. The small things I have done have turned out well. If I get 40+mm high on a part, I start seeing cracks due to layer delamination. - sometimes not happening until a day or 2 later). The problem with enclosing the entire printer are heat concerns with the power supply, ramps board, and motors. Electronics can be "easily" mounted outside the enclosure, the motors, not so much.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 15, 2016 11:50PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 16 |
Quote
lemgandi
Quote
pizzachef
Hey guys, I appreciate all the good info in this enormous thread. I've got my printer built and am going through calibration now. I used therippa's firmware, but had the following error messages when it was compiling the sketch:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Arduino: 1.6.8 (Windows XP), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:2667:36: warning: invalid suffix on literal; C++11 requires a space between literal and identifier [-Wliteral-suffix]
LCD_MESSAGEPGM(MACHINE_NAME" "MSG_OFF".");
^
sketch\temperature.cpp:565:50: warning: extra tokens at end of #ifdef directive [enabled by default]
#ifdef THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD && THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD > 0
^
Sketch uses 102,872 bytes (40%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253,952 bytes.
Global variables use 4,223 bytes (51%) of dynamic memory, leaving 3,969 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8,192 bytes.
I got exactly those warning (not error) messages building therippa's firmware on the very latest & greatest Arduino IDE. Older compilers did not generate them. Since they were just compiler warnings and did not stop the build, I went ahead and loaded it into Cora (my printer) from my IBM R50e running Debian Jessie. Everything so far is working as designed. I'll see about cleaning up the warning messages RSN.
Yea, I figured I'd get some flack for mentioning XP, but its the only extra computer I had laying around that I could leave in the basement with the printer. If I could do what I needed with a chromebook, I'd be golden! I'll get Linux on it sooner or later, but the project of building the printer outweighed the project of getting Linux running reliably on this thing. And I have a display for the printer, so once its calibrated and running, the computer won't be used for much.Quote
flatlander
Windows XP, yikes! Get a modern OS, like any flavor of free linux, on that machineMaybe not, there is some overhead with admin permissions and usb dialout groups on linux...
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 02:05AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 314 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 09:49AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 130 |
I use sewing machine oil or 3-In-One, just a drop or two at each friction point and a good wipe down with a lint-free rag on some weekly cleaning schedule.Quote
UltiFix
I have been succesfully printing on my folger for awhile and now the z axis makes annoying screeching noises... Can I use WD-40 on the threaded rod? I have autolevel if that makes any difference.
I did some googling around and it looks likelithium grease(I guess that collects dirt fast, so people are using motor oil instead) for the threaded rods, and silicon grease for the rods...
Sounds good to you guys?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 10:14AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 130 |
Gentle ribbing not flack. You do what ya got a do. I just last night got a "stable" version of theRippa's firmware and I'm still using the back right corner for (0, 0, 0). My display is still sitting in its anti static bag...I'm not sure I want to add any more current to RAMPS until I beef-up the 12V-dc-in or until I get the Heat Bed Current off the RAMPS board.Quote
pizzachef
Yea, I figured I'd get some flack for mentioning XP, but its the only extra computer I had laying around that I could leave in the basement with the printer. If I could do what I needed with a chromebook, I'd be golden! I'll get Linux on it sooner or later, but the project of building the printer outweighed the project of getting Linux running reliably on this thing. And I have a display for the printer, so once its calibrated and running, the computer won't be used for much.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 10:24AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 130 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 11:41AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 130 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 02:15PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 85 |
Quote
flatlander
One my gotchas has to do with "sane defaults." It's where the extrusion volume is reduced on the perimeter so the object looks 'pretty.' I think all of our slicers are using this to some degree. Re: last paragraph at the following:
[manual.slic3r.org]
I'll probably use the maths from here to get overlap and width correct:
[hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk]
Specifying my own width should help overhangs. Maybe printing 'perimeters first' might help too.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 02:18PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 85 |
Quote
flatlander
On a side note, is there a good way to see 'graphically' the Folger Tech Marlin branches/version lineage?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 02:27PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 314 |
Lately I have been printing everything at 0.2mm, im using the stock extruder and hotend... Should I change it? Im using curaQuote
jhitesma
Quote
flatlander
One my gotchas has to do with "sane defaults." It's where the extrusion volume is reduced on the perimeter so the object looks 'pretty.' I think all of our slicers are using this to some degree. Re: last paragraph at the following:
[manual.slic3r.org]
I'll probably use the maths from here to get overlap and width correct:
[hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk]
Specifying my own width should help overhangs. Maybe printing 'perimeters first' might help too.
I've found that explicitly setting a default extrusion width in slic3r gives far better results than it's defaults.
The default is nozzle_width * 1.05 which with our stock 0.4mm nozzle comes out to 0.42 But my testing and tjnamtiw's seems to really back up that that's too low as the free air extrusion from our nozzles comes out larger due to die swell (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?406,512329,635611#msg-635611)
The value I've heard is best is 120% which on a 0.40mm nozzle comes out to 0.48 I also tried 0.45 and that gave me better results than slic3r's default 0.42 but 0.48 has given me by far the best results - once I adjust my filament diameter and extrusion multiplier so single wall test prints come out with the actual default extrusion with I've set.
This blog describes the process quite well: [northwoods3d.weebly.com]
Once I switched to a 0.48mm default extrusion width and dialed in my extrusion multiplier for each filament I use my accuracy improved greatly. I can now do just about any print in place design with no issues and can do the make negative space tolerance test and the first 3 pegs fall out by themselves and even the 0.2mm clearance peg can be removed by hand.
This is the single wall test piece I use for a 0.4mm nozzle: [drive.google.com]
Note: this method won't work in cura since cura won't slice a single wall partAt least I've yet to find a way to get it to do so.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 02:41PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 131 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 03:00PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 130 |
Quote
jhitesma
Quote
flatlander
One my gotchas has to do with "sane defaults." It's where the extrusion volume is reduced on the perimeter so the object looks 'pretty.' I think all of our slicers are using this to some degree. Re: last paragraph at the following:
[manual.slic3r.org]
I'll probably use the maths from here to get overlap and width correct:
[hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk]
Specifying my own width should help overhangs. Maybe printing 'perimeters first' might help too.
I've found that explicitly setting a default extrusion width in slic3r gives far better results than it's defaults.
The default is nozzle_width * 1.05 which with our stock 0.4mm nozzle comes out to 0.42 But my testing and tjnamtiw's seems to really back up that that's too low as the free air extrusion from our nozzles comes out larger due to die swell (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?406,512329,635611#msg-635611)
The value I've heard is best is 120% which on a 0.40mm nozzle comes out to 0.48 I also tried 0.45 and that gave me better results than slic3r's default 0.42 but 0.48 has given me by far the best results - once I adjust my filament diameter and extrusion multiplier so single wall test prints come out with the actual default extrusion with I've set.
This blog describes the process quite well: [northwoods3d.weebly.com]
Once I switched to a 0.48mm default extrusion width and dialed in my extrusion multiplier for each filament I use my accuracy improved greatly. I can now do just about any print in place design with no issues and can do the make negative space tolerance test and the first 3 pegs fall out by themselves and even the 0.2mm clearance peg can be removed by hand.
This is the single wall test piece I use for a 0.4mm nozzle: [drive.google.com]
Note: this method won't work in cura since cura won't slice a single wall partAt least I've yet to find a way to get it to do so.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 03:53PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 85 |
Quote
UltiFix
Lately I have been printing everything at 0.2mm, im using the stock extruder and hotend... Should I change it? Im using cura
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 04:10PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 85 |
Quote
flatlander
Good stuff thanks a lot! One question to clarify one missing parameter. Are you specifying a height of 0.32mm? That would fit with all the maths I've been looking at. TIA
p.s. Looks like too many github branches to suss out our Marlin lineage.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 04:51PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 276 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 05:24PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 85 |
Quote
therippa
If anyone is curious about the marlin lineage, the only two files changed on my fork from the official Marlin fork is configuration.h and pins.h. If you want to see the differences, compare the two files using BeyondCompare.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 05:35PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 314 |
Is layer height and quality the same? On cura it says quality..Quote
jhitesma
Quote
UltiFix
Lately I have been printing everything at 0.2mm, im using the stock extruder and hotend... Should I change it? Im using cura
Layer height? 0.2 should be good Prusa has a calculator that helps you figure out optimal layer heights based on your z screws: [prusaprinters.org]
For extrusion width 0.2 would be WAY too narrow. But like I said I don't use cura because I can't get it to do single wall prints so I can't test the extrusion multiplier accurately.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 05:40PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 314 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 06:18PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 314 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 07:45PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 131 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 08:15PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
marc2912
I noticed someone else mention it on here. I have an E3D with the stock extruder. I had to remove the aluminum block that sits under the extruder that the heat block screws into. I was going to upgrade my extruder to this from ebay but the block isn't removable and I won't be able to attach the hotend. What are people running with an E3D that is NOT a bowden extruder.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 08:31PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 130 |
Quote
marc2912
I noticed someone else mention it on here. I have an E3D with the stock extruder. I had to remove the aluminum block that sits under the extruder that the heat block screws into. I was going to upgrade my extruder to this from ebay but the block isn't removable and I won't be able to attach the hotend. What are people running with an E3D that is NOT a bowden extruder.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) March 16, 2016 09:36PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 131 |
Quote
flatlander
Quote
marc2912
I noticed someone else mention it on here. I have an E3D with the stock extruder. I had to remove the aluminum block that sits under the extruder that the heat block screws into. I was going to upgrade my extruder to this from ebay but the block isn't removable and I won't be able to attach the hotend. What are people running with an E3D that is NOT a bowden extruder.
I purchased this on a recommendation from our Folger Tech thread here. I ran into the same problem, the hotend tube does screw into the bottom of this device and it probably would feed filament into the hotend. There were threads on the in-feed; I would drill out and the countersink that hole. It looked like it could transfer heat to the extruder stepper. It's for another day when I feel more adventurous. It's buyers remorse with a lowercase b. I did print out the instructions and folded them into the box.
It does say this, "Reduce the wiredrawing problem when working for remote feeding." Now that would make sense if it was a welder, but I'm not feeding any wire into my 3d printer.