Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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therippa
I finished the induction autolevel sensor this weekend. The hardest part was getting it dialed in initially, and then having to do some serious changes in the configuration since Folgertech makes the X endstop max, which doesn't work with autolevel. Also, animoose and others using E3D's, I would HIGHLY recommend getting this thermistor...

[www.amazon.com]

I learned this weekend taking apart the head to fix a clog that the thermistor/insulation is only good for one screw tightening, after that the insulation falls apart and the thermistor shorts, showing a temp of 999F.

What did you do to make the inductive sensor work? I tried connecting a inductive sensor with both a voltage divider and a voltage regulator. The sensor activated when I brought it close to a metal surface, but the controller still did not register it as triggered.

Forgive me if this has been covered yet. I am new to 3d printing and bought one of these folgers i3 2020 kits last week. I have it all together but im having a few issues. Im getting a MINTEMP triggered on the extruder and from what I read there should be 100ohms reading on the thermister. I get that with the heated bed one but I am getting no reading at all with the extruder thermister.

Problem number two my Y axis motor wont turn. Ive got my driver set around.550v it just sits there and vibrates back and forth like it wants to do something ( and I have it completely disconnected from the belt and carraige.) Ive upped it more but it just makes more noise but doesn't spin. All my connections are right and my x and z axis move fine (though im going to have to figure out the x axis end stop).I even put in a new driver thinking that was the problem. Think I have something wrong with my board? I'm new and out of ideas. ;-(

Update: I unplugged my z axis and plugged the y axis into that and the y motor worked great. So something is wrong with my y axis in the card somewhere. I have all my jumpers in?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/31/2015 12:33PM by woodknack.

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Mach

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therippa
I finished the induction autolevel sensor this weekend. The hardest part was getting it dialed in initially, and then having to do some serious changes in the configuration since Folgertech makes the X endstop max, which doesn't work with autolevel. Also, animoose and others using E3D's, I would HIGHLY recommend getting this thermistor...

[www.amazon.com]

I learned this weekend taking apart the head to fix a clog that the thermistor/insulation is only good for one screw tightening, after that the insulation falls apart and the thermistor shorts, showing a temp of 999F.

What did you do to make the inductive sensor work? I tried connecting a inductive sensor with both a voltage divider and a voltage regulator. The sensor activated when I brought it close to a metal surface, but the controller still did not register it as triggered.

I built the circuit described in this post - [forums.reprap.org]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/31/2015 04:05PM by therippa.

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therippa

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Mach

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therippa
I finished the induction autolevel sensor this weekend. The hardest part was getting it dialed in initially, and then having to do some serious changes in the configuration since Folgertech makes the X endstop max, which doesn't work with autolevel. Also, animoose and others using E3D's, I would HIGHLY recommend getting this thermistor...

[www.amazon.com]

I learned this weekend taking apart the head to fix a clog that the thermistor/insulation is only good for one screw tightening, after that the insulation falls apart and the thermistor shorts, showing a temp of 999F.

What did you do to make the inductive sensor work? I tried connecting a inductive sensor with both a voltage divider and a voltage regulator. The sensor activated when I brought it close to a metal surface, but the controller still did not register it as triggered.

I built the circuit described in this post - [forums.reprap.org]

Quote
woodknack
Forgive me if this has been covered yet. I am new to 3d printing and bought one of these folgers i3 2020 kits last week. I have it all together but im having a few issues. Im getting a MINTEMP triggered on the extruder and from what I read there should be 100ohms reading on the thermister. I get that with the heated bed one but I am getting no reading at all with the extruder thermister.

Problem number two my Y axis motor wont turn. Ive got my driver set around.550v it just sits there and vibrates back and forth like it wants to do something ( and I have it completely disconnected from the belt and carraige.) Ive upped it more but it just makes more noise but doesn't spin. All my connections are right and my x and z axis move fine (though im going to have to figure out the x axis end stop).I even put in a new driver thinking that was the problem. Think I have something wrong with my board? I'm new and out of ideas. ;-(

Update: I unplugged my z axis and plugged the y axis into that and the y motor worked great. So something is wrong with my y axis in the card somewhere. I have all my jumpers in?

Any clues or is this a dead forum?

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woodknack

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woodknack
Forgive me if this has been covered yet. I am new to 3d printing and bought one of these folgers i3 2020 kits last week. I have it all together but im having a few issues. Im getting a MINTEMP triggered on the extruder and from what I read there should be 100ohms reading on the thermister. I get that with the heated bed one but I am getting no reading at all with the extruder thermister.

Problem number two my Y axis motor wont turn. Ive got my driver set around.550v it just sits there and vibrates back and forth like it wants to do something ( and I have it completely disconnected from the belt and carraige.) Ive upped it more but it just makes more noise but doesn't spin. All my connections are right and my x and z axis move fine (though im going to have to figure out the x axis end stop).I even put in a new driver thinking that was the problem. Think I have something wrong with my board? I'm new and out of ideas. ;-(

Update: I unplugged my z axis and plugged the y axis into that and the y motor worked great. So something is wrong with my y axis in the card somewhere. I have all my jumpers in?

Any clues or is this a dead forum?

your thermistor is fried you need a new one. If you have verified it has no resistance and it's wired in correctly.

your Y is set to home max or min when it wants the other or the motor is plugged is backards check for both. Look in Repetier for the homing options.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/01/2015 10:54AM by jasonsaffle13@gmail.com.

This is the link to my Youtube channel where all I do is 3D printed stuff. My only video right now is my review for this printer. Come check it out.
[www.youtube.com]

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[email protected]

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woodknack

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woodknack
Forgive me if this has been covered yet. I am new to 3d printing and bought one of these folgers i3 2020 kits last week. I have it all together but im having a few issues. Im getting a MINTEMP triggered on the extruder and from what I read there should be 100ohms reading on the thermister. I get that with the heated bed one but I am getting no reading at all with the extruder thermister.

Problem number two my Y axis motor wont turn. Ive got my driver set around.550v it just sits there and vibrates back and forth like it wants to do something ( and I have it completely disconnected from the belt and carraige.) Ive upped it more but it just makes more noise but doesn't spin. All my connections are right and my x and z axis move fine (though im going to have to figure out the x axis end stop).I even put in a new driver thinking that was the problem. Think I have something wrong with my board? I'm new and out of ideas. ;-(

Update: I unplugged my z axis and plugged the y axis into that and the y motor worked great. So something is wrong with my y axis in the card somewhere. I have all my jumpers in?

Any clues or is this a dead forum?

your thermistor is fried you need a new one. If you have verified it has no resistance and it's wired in correctly.
your Y is set to home max or min when it wants the other or the motor is plugged is backards check for both. Look in Repetier for the homing options.

Yup I have new thermister coming.

As for the Y axis the home set on min or max shouldn't matter. the motor should turn either way. It just sits there and vibrates back and forth. voltage is set correctly. its not the stepper or the stepper wires as I have unplugged them and plugged them into the x axis and the stepper spun up just fine. I even put a new driver on the y axis thinking it was the driver and adjusted the voltage and still the same. all the jumpers are connected under the driver and all have metal in the jumpers so they are bridged. I see no solder bridges on either board. So I think something is fried on the ramps board or maybe even the mega chip has a problem!?

So I just get my 2020 Prusa i3 from folgertech and was wondering if anyone else had problems with connecting the sk8s to the frame? It says to use m5x8mm but they aren't long enough... Any thoughts?

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platinum16
So I just get my 2020 Prusa i3 from folgertech and was wondering if anyone else had problems with connecting the sk8s to the frame? It says to use m5x8mm but they aren't long enough... Any thoughts?

I don't think anyone who has built the printer received all the correct hardware in the order, and a trip or two the local hardware store always had to be made.

Use M5x10 or M5x12 for connection. Good design practice has at least three threads engaging, those M5x8 couldn't even do that in theory based on the SK8s.

Hi all, still not getting my printer to work. I emailed Folger Tech and waited the two days for a response, but the response didn't fix anything. Here's what I am at: I can connect to the printer with no issues. However, hitting the home x and home y buttons do almost nothing. Sometimes the home x button moves the carriage about 10mm, but never a big sweep to the limit switch. I have tried about every possible combination of movements and some times something allows the y axis or the x axis to move in both directions, but it's random. I believe that hitting home, should ask the machine to move the printer carriage or heated plate until it hits the endstops. Which would either make them 0,0 since they are min endstops or 200,200 if they were max endstops. This isn't happening. Is there somewhere that spells this out for people who are not familiar with these machines? Folger said to move my endstops to the MAX position. That had no effect.

I also noticed that my limit switches are having an issue, I used M119 on the x_min and y_min and they seem to work when hand toggled, but the z_min ignores any input, I used the working y_min plugged into the z_axis_min and it didn't read what was working before, I don't see any solder issues on the RAMPS board. What could be the issue there?

I also notice on pg 28 of the build doc, the x-axis stepper is reversed WRT to the others, that is carried through on the wiring check on pg 38. What is correct? Why is X reversed if this is correct?

Ok sounds good and my shf8's didn't come but FT alrdy replied and told me they were going to send it prolly tomorrow with some m5x10's

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Davewerld
Hi all, still not getting my printer to work. I emailed Folger Tech and waited the two days for a response, but the response didn't fix anything. Here's what I am at: I can connect to the printer with no issues. However, hitting the home x and home y buttons do almost nothing. Sometimes the home x button moves the carriage about 10mm, but never a big sweep to the limit switch. I have tried about every possible combination of movements and some times something allows the y axis or the x axis to move in both directions, but it's random. I believe that hitting home, should ask the machine to move the printer carriage or heated plate until it hits the endstops. Which would either make them 0,0 since they are min endstops or 200,200 if they were max endstops. This isn't happening. Is there somewhere that spells this out for people who are not familiar with these machines? Folger said to move my endstops to the MAX position. That had no effect.

I also noticed that my limit switches are having an issue, I used M119 on the x_min and y_min and they seem to work when hand toggled, but the z_min ignores any input, I used the working y_min plugged into the z_axis_min and it didn't read what was working before, I don't see any solder issues on the RAMPS board. What could be the issue there?

I also notice on pg 28 of the build doc, the x-axis stepper is reversed WRT to the others, that is carried through on the wiring check on pg 38. What is correct? Why is X reversed if this is correct?

If you manually move your printer head to the middle of the build area and hit home, does it move, and what direction?

Wow, I can't believe how long this thread is now and all the cool stuff people have done! I'm feeling inspired by and of the enclosures and additional aluminum. (For everyone who doesn't know, getting aluminum brackets, more extrusion cut to length, t nuts, etc is all really easy from [us.misumi-ec.com]. Apparently they're giving new customers a 30% discount, so you could buy the brackets tnuts aluminum, etc for 30% off, print out the mastic parts, and give a printer to a friend at discount . Or make yourself a backup printer on the cheap!

I haven't done nearly as much with mine. I got it mainly to print out parts for my custom delta. Haven't done much of that since I had ordered a custom acl for my right knee. It came in last Wednesday .

Today, I got a cool new toy in. A 320W mains powered silicone heater with psa (pressure sensitive adhesive. Press on hard and it sticks). I ordered a slightly oversized aluminum ate from onlinemetals.com came cut to size 10x9" which seems to be about the max usable area on this printer. Slightly higher, but not bad. Cost was $14.40 plus ~$10 shipping. Currently, I just drilled the original mount holes as I forgot either I need to get glass with reliefs for the heat spreader mount, or I need to make a bigger y carriage. Still haven't decided because customized borosilicate glass really isn't that expensive, and I'm going to have to get a bigger piece anyhow! I got my heater from oemheaters.com but their prices are awful...lead times are sweet though. I'd recommend omega. They have a 5 week lead time on any heater sized for our printer. ($60 iirc at omega, $110 at or heaters for a 3 week lead time, $160 for a "rush" order delivered in 10 days. Omega is so much cheaper!). I still went with an 8x8. With the psa that put me at 5W/sq in max, 320 watts. Omega has the same offerings. Both allow you to go up to 10W/sq inch without the psa, but then how will you mount your heater to the heat spreader? . The silicone heaters, even with psa were rated to either 220C or 240C, can't remember which. Either way, more than you'll need. Oemheaters will also let you set your W/sq in to anything you want below the max for your configuration. They let you select your input voltage as well. Not just 12, 24, 120 either, it's 0-480V ac/dc whatever you need. (So if you have eutopean mains they can help...if you're running of 3 phase somewhere, they can help you out ). Omega I think just offers 12 and 120.

Didn't mean for that to be a vendor compare, just figured I'd share in case anyone else wants to buy one of these. So why would you want a 320W mains powered heater you ask? No strain on the power supply, and it hits 120C in 2 minutes. Yup, heated at 1 degree C/second average. You may wonder how ramps is controlling it. A cheap solid state relay from Amazon does the trick nicely. Yes, cheap ssr's only switch off at a zero crossing. Marlin uses 7.xxxx Hz pwm, and repetier does 15.xxxx Hz pwm. In other words there will only be a very slight delay in actual off times vs commanded off times. The power company probably doesn't like pwm on mains but hasn't come knocking either . Honest, the expensive ssr's are much harder on the house turning on and off mid wave, so I wouldn't worry to much. Temps are maintained to about 0.2 Degrees C. So the mosfet, capable of supplying 10Amps to the heated bed is instead connected directly to the solid state relay (mind the polarity) and uses milli amps to switch the relay on. One wire from the heater is soldered directly to a power cord with a standard plug for 120v outlets. The other wire is run to the control side of the ssr, as well as the other side of the power cord. Ssr has screw terminals. It'd be a good idea to house all this inside a plastic box, though as long as you solder/l and heat shrink/wire nut/etc the heater to the power cord, there should be basically 0 shock risk from the ssr. Still better to hide it in a box

Second mod I've done doesn't take nearly so many words, and it may have already been done, I didn't read the whole thread . Yeah, I'm *THAT* guy tonight . I have repetier firmware working on the printer. Marlins auto leveling just left so much to be desired. If been using repetier in my delta, and the eepron support in repetier is so much better. If anyone wants my current firmware, I'll put it up on Dropbox and share it. I don't know if there's religious followings of firmwares and if saying I'm using repetier in marlin home is heresy, so I won't post it until asked

Third one I'm working on....is stupid, and unnecessary, but amusing. It's a power switch...that will use a touch sensor....and have a kill-a-watt style power meter built in....and an led that will change color with power draw . See....stupid . Turns out, measuring ac power isn't easy. Currently I have the Hall effect current sensor working, the voltage through a transformer (for isolation and sane voltage) through a voltage divider and dc biasing to get a 1-4V sine wave (leaving some extra room for changes in voltage) for voltage detection. Also ran the sine waves through a differential amp to square them off and have the output of those as rising edge triggering interrupts on the arduino for phase detection. (To correct for power factor). See what I mean! Complex! Why?! I don't have a good reason . Regardless, when it's done I'll post schematics and source code on github or something in case anyone else wants to be part of the insanity!

I also have an e3d v6 ready to go since the delta is going to get the cyclops, but want to make i3 dual extruder with the original. If anyone already has stls for that with a mechanical bed leveling probe, could you point me in the right direction? . I'll probably upgrade to an inductive probe now that I have an aluminum heat spreader, but looking to keep it mechanical for now.

Keep up the awesome stuff people! I'm going to have to go back through this thread in detail and copy some of the work I saw skimming!

Hi therippa, and others

If I place the printer head in the middle, and home the xaxis, it moves about 10mm to the left, each time I press home it moves about 10mm away from the endstop. That's with the stepper motor plugged in like the picture on p28/38 of the config doc. If I flip that connection, it moves 10mm toward the endstop. The y axis most often does what I would expect, it buzzes along until it hits the endstop in the rear of the machine. The z axis seems like it would want to zero itself, but since the Z_min_endstop is not working, it would just press into the table and cause issues. I'm getting the idea that something is wrong with my Ramps board for both the x-axis and the z_min_endstop.

I have swapped the z_axis_min endstop to test it, and a known good one, doesn't produce a reading in the z_axis_min when doing M119. That same sensor does read postively in the y_axis_min endstop. I also replaced the x_axis motor driver to make sure that wasn't it and it still misbehaves. Also in Repetier, I can use @isathome to make it think it's homed, then move the xaxis in it's little 10mm jumps, and get to a position of say 80, but then when I hit xhome, it moves 10mm away from the endstop and claims a x position value of 0.

Any ideas would be very welcome.

Thanks,

Dave

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Davewerld
Hi therippa, and others

If I place the printer head in the middle, and home the xaxis, it moves about 10mm to the left, each time I press home it moves about 10mm away from the endstop. That's with the stepper motor plugged in like the picture on p28/38 of the config doc. If I flip that connection, it moves 10mm toward the endstop. The y axis most often does what I would expect, it buzzes along until it hits the endstop in the rear of the machine. The z axis seems like it would want to zero itself, but since the Z_min_endstop is not working, it would just press into the table and cause issues. I'm getting the idea that something is wrong with my Ramps board for both the x-axis and the z_min_endstop.

I have swapped the z_axis_min endstop to test it, and a known good one, doesn't produce a reading in the z_axis_min when doing M119. That same sensor does read postively in the y_axis_min endstop. I also replaced the x_axis motor driver to make sure that wasn't it and it still misbehaves. Also in Repetier, I can use @isathome to make it think it's homed, then move the xaxis in it's little 10mm jumps, and get to a position of say 80, but then when I hit xhome, it moves 10mm away from the endstop and claims a x position value of 0.

Any ideas would be very welcome.

Thanks,

Dave

Oh, the X axis issue is known problem described about 20 pages ago (I had the same problem), but since the search function on this forum sucks, I can't remember the solution. First, try loading this firmware to it (it's the latest marlin with folgertech settings merged in) - [github.com]

See if that helps. I want to say you should also go into Repetier (or whatever host you're using) and make sure that under printer preferences X endstop is set to MAX. If you still get stuck, go back about 20 pages and start reading through.

EDIT: Original problem described and solved here - [forums.reprap.org] , but the better solution is here - [forums.reprap.org]

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 09/02/2015 01:15AM by therippa.

Hey guys just a couple questions. Is it easier to do all the firmware updating from PC or Mac and what program do you use for printing?

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platinum16
Hey guys just a couple questions. Is it easier to do all the firmware updating from PC or Mac and what program do you use for printing?

I use a PC and the Arduino software. Super easy

Hi,

Downloading that firmware didn't change the behavior. So I want to try moving the Xstop connector over, but that opens a new batch of questions. If I look in pins.h, I think we have Gen7 v 1.4 pin assignment, which says X_STOP_PIN 0, is that what I would change and to what, because Y_STOP_PIN is already 1 and Z_STOP_PIN is 2. Of course, none of that seems to match the RAMPS 1.4 schematic [reprap.org] . Should I be looking at something else than these two places? If I look at Arduino Mega pin assignment, I get the right matches, which is what was suggested in the posts 20 pages ago, but do I change 2 to 3 and make the min pin the max?

Of course none of this will fix my Z-axis not registering, I think that's a board issue. I ordered another board from Amazon last night, which will probably get here tomorrow.

Thanks,

Dave

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/02/2015 12:27PM by Davewerld.

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Davewerld
Hi,

Downloading that firmware didn't change the behavior. So I want to try moving the Xstop connector over, but that opens a new batch of questions. If I look in pins.h, I think we have Gen7 v 1.4 pin assignment, which says X_STOP_PIN 0, is that what I would change and to what, because Y_STOP_PIN is already 1 and Z_STOP_PIN is 2. Of course, none of that seems to match the RAMPS 1.4 schematic [reprap.org] . Should I be looking at something else than these two places? If I look at Arduino Mega pin assignment, I get the right matches, which is what was suggested in the posts 20 pages ago, but do I change 2 to 3 and make the min pin the max?

Of course none of this will fix my Z-axis not registering, I think that's a board issue. I ordered another board from Amazon last night, which will probably get here tomorrow.

Thanks,

Dave

I can confirm that in both the stock folger firmware, and the merged marlin version posted earlier in this thread work with the X endstop plugged into the second set of pins from the right. On the ramps board this is X-Max instead of X-Min. Y and Z endstops still plug into the min pins. This corresponds to how the folgers build instructions mount the endstops, with Y and Z at the 0 position, but X at the max position.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/02/2015 01:58PM by Bert3D.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

My Thingiverse Designs

I did try that. I also tried playing with the settings of the pins. And changing min and max in repetier. Also flipping the x axis wiring to match y and z and even flipping the directions in Repetier. And still it mocks me by moving that little x carriage about 10mm. Folger tech sent me an email saying they were going to send me a new Ramps board. Maybe that will make the magic happen. I kind of feel like it must be some software setting because occassionally the x axis will move 50 mm, but if you move 50, 10 or 1 mm in the other direction, then it doesn't move again. It's a puzzle.

Trickiest print so far - printed as one piece (with tiny supports, and a ramp to hold onto the tiny supports)...

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therippa
Trickiest print so far - printed as one piece (with tiny supports, and a ramp to hold onto the tiny supports)...

IMG_20150902_091605.jpg

A bit low res, but it looks pretty good. What layer height did you print it in?

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Mach

Quote
therippa
Trickiest print so far - printed as one piece (with tiny supports, and a ramp to hold onto the tiny supports)...

IMG_20150902_091605.jpg

A bit low res, but it looks pretty good. What layer height did you print it in?

0.175

Platinum16
''So I just get my 2020 Prusa i3 from folgertech and was wondering if anyone else had problems with connecting the sk8s to the frame? It says to use m5x8mm but they aren't long enough... Any thoughts?''



I just started assembling my 2020 today and, yes, the 8mm bolts are too short for the SK8's. I countersunk the holes with a 3/8" drill bit about 2-3mm and then had enough length to secure them.
As for hardware, I had MORE than enough of all the hardware when I did an inventory. I used a couple of muffin pans to separate everything ahead of time.

You'll also have to drill out the holes in the bearing holders to let the bolts go through easily. I cleaned up the inside of the recesses for the bearings with a dremel because there were a lot of 'strings' in there. Minor problems for a kit at that price. You DO need to be handy with tools and be mechanically inclined to tackle this kit.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/02/2015 11:41PM by tjnamtiw.

Ya I got tools and licenced auto machanic I just don't know if I should be drilling recesses n wat not but all good I grabbed some m5x10mm from my works supplier and it was perfect
I guess I'm just not as confident with this printer as I am with other people's cars lmao
Jk

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/03/2015 03:34AM by platinum16.

So, I am trying to setup a full graphic lcd controller, but I cannot get the screen to show anything other than the blue backlight. I have downloaded and included the u8glib library in config.h, uncommented
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER, #define ULTRA_LCD, #define DOGLCD, and #define SDSUPPORT. The contrast pot is set to a proper amount and I am using the latest version of marlin. The selector knob does beep when I press it, but nothing else seem to work. I know a few people on this thread have hooked up this controller, so I was wondering what you had to do to get it to work? Thanks

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Mach
So, I am trying to setup a full graphic lcd controller, but I cannot get the screen to show anything other than the blue backlight. I have downloaded and included the u8glib library in config.h, uncommented
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER, #define ULTRA_LCD, #define DOGLCD, and #define SDSUPPORT. The contrast pot is set to a proper amount and I am using the latest version of marlin. The selector knob does beep when I press it, but nothing else seem to work. I know a few people on this thread have hooked up this controller, so I was wondering what you had to do to get it to work? Thanks

Are you using TheRippa's configured version of the firmware? If so, check out my post on page 45. Also take a look at Tom's LCD episode on Youtube.

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[www.thingiverse.com]

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Mach
So, I am trying to setup a full graphic lcd controller, but I cannot get the screen to show anything other than the blue backlight. I have downloaded and included the u8glib library in config.h, uncommented
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER, #define ULTRA_LCD, #define DOGLCD, and #define SDSUPPORT. The contrast pot is set to a proper amount and I am using the latest version of marlin. The selector knob does beep when I press it, but nothing else seem to work. I know a few people on this thread have hooked up this controller, so I was wondering what you had to do to get it to work? Thanks

Comment out ULTRA_LCD and DOGLCD and SDSUPPORT around lines 535 to 537. These will get defined automatically later in the config, if appropriate, just from setting REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER.

Make sure none of the other LCD options are set that might conflict, like G3D_PANEL, or MAKRPANEL.

This may not fix your issue. I don't think the ones you selected would conflict, but it is worth a try.

The only thing you should have to do is uncomment REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER, and comment out whatever display was selected previously. That and include the u8glib library.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/03/2015 01:31PM by Bert3D.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

My Thingiverse Designs