Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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elkayem

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tjnamtiw
Wow, I just had my first bitch-slap from J-MAX >> [forums.reprap.org]

This guy hates FT and apparently is God, at least in his own mind. In his words, anyone who's only been around for 3 months has NOTHING to contribute to the forum. They should just sit quietly and learn even though I spent my entire working career of 50 years in electrical and electronic engineering.

Sad, really.

That guy is an arrogant jerk, and really has it in for FT. I've read a number of his posts, and he repetitively posts about how much he hates FT. It seems to be personal for him.

My experience is similar to yours. I have nothing but good things to say about the kit I received. Well, perhaps a few things could get cleaned up in the build manual. Before this printer, my experience is with the ones we have at the office, an Ultimaker 2 and a Taz 5. Most of my printing there is on the Ultimaker 2, which is a $2500 printer. I can honestly say that it's prints are no better than my FT 2020. Not just my opinion. I've brought some examples of my prints into work, and my coworkers have been equally impressed. The only upgrades I made to the FT2020 are a new E3D lite hot end, and an LCD screen. Other than that, strictly stock.

When I went shopping for a printer, I wanted to go the DIY route. I initially compiled the list of parts for a RepRap Prusa and priced them out on eBay and Amazon. Then I discovered the FT2020, which had all the same parts, but at $50 cheaper than I could do by myself. I can't say that any of the parts in the kit are different than ones I would have picked out myself. The way I look at it, I can take that $50 savings and apply it to upgrade any parts that fall short. So far, it's just been the hot end and I'm still ahead. I see that a number of other people on this thread have upgraded bearings, threaded rods, etc, but I suspect a lot of that is just for the fun of tinkering rather than getting noticeable improvement in print quality,

Anyway, it must really irk J-MAX that this thread is one of the most popular on this forum, filled with people who love the FT2020. So there!

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elkayem

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tjnamtiw
Wow, I just had my first bitch-slap from J-MAX >> [forums.reprap.org]

This guy hates FT and apparently is God, at least in his own mind. In his words, anyone who's only been around for 3 months has NOTHING to contribute to the forum. They should just sit quietly and learn even though I spent my entire working career of 50 years in electrical and electronic engineering.

Sad, really.

That guy is an arrogant jerk, and really has it in for FT. I've read a number of his posts, and he repetitively posts about how much he hates FT. It seems to be personal for him.

My experience is similar to yours. I have nothing but good things to say about the kit I received. Well, perhaps a few things could get cleaned up in the build manual. Before this printer, my experience is with the ones we have at the office, an Ultimaker 2 and a Taz 5. Most of my printing there is on the Ultimaker 2, which is a $2500 printer. I can honestly say that it's prints are no better than my FT 2020. Not just my opinion. I've brought some examples of my prints into work, and my coworkers have been equally impressed. The only upgrades I made to the FT2020 are a new E3D lite hot end, and an LCD screen. Other than that, strictly stock.

When I went shopping for a printer, I wanted to go the DIY route. I initially compiled the list of parts for a RepRap Prusa and priced them out on eBay and Amazon. Then I discovered the FT2020, which had all the same parts, but at $50 cheaper than I could do by myself. I can't say that any of the parts in the kit are different than ones I would have picked out myself. The way I look at it, I can take that $50 savings and apply it to upgrade any parts that fall short. So far, it's just been the hot end and I'm still ahead. I see that a number of other people on this thread have upgraded bearings, threaded rods, etc, but I suspect a lot of that is just for the fun of tinkering rather than getting noticeable improvement in print quality,

Anyway, it must really irk J-MAX that this thread is one of the most popular on this forum, filled with people who love the FT2020. So there!

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catbagan
Greetings! I received my 2020 last week. It's my first printer and I stayed up all night building it. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get any decent and my hot end got terribly clogged. It turns out the PTFE tube was damaged. I ordered a few replacement throats with the PTFE but I figured I check out the electronic surplus store over the hill. I was amazed that they had the exact PTFE tube that I needed! For $0.44/foot!!!

I just got back and decided enough with the test cubes; let's just try print something semi-useful using the stock PLA .ini config. And here it is! My first not completely failed print, a fan shroud (still need to clean it up though)! I'm super excited and wish that my Thanksgiving break from school was longer so I could get this printer calibrated and dialed in!

oF684V6.jpg

SIOmJ1X.jpg

Cheers all!

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watlooazn
Can we use any glass plate as long as its within the required dimensions? 213*200*3mm

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animoose
I agree with both of you. I've seen several posts from J-max and made a decision not to engage with them. I like my printer and get good results from it, and I built it and come to these forums to have fun. Getting into an argument would just leave me feel angry. We probably all know this: [www.explainxkcd.com].

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animoose

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watlooazn
Can we use any glass plate as long as its within the required dimensions? 213*200*3mm

I use some ordinary 3mm window glass. I've read that using glass less than 3mm thick might be risky, as it could crack. Some people like borosilicate glass, but I've found the window glass has worked fine for me. Mostly I print PLA and PETG.

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sethmo
Elkayem that is pretty impressive. What mods have you done?

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elkayem
New prints from yesterday. 0% infill and no support material.

[attachment 66632 IMG_0907.JPG]

[attachment 66633 IMG_0903.JPG]

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msaeger

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sonnylowe

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msaeger

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sonnylowe
Y-Carriage installed and running

This VIDEO shows significant noise reduction of the previous SETUP. Now all I can hear are the stepper motors and some noise from the X-Carriage (I'm working that redesign now).

I printer a couple cal blocks prior to the change and the same block afterwards. I added more photos to the FOLDER, some of the cal blocks, and the y-carriage installed. The blocks on the right were prior to the upgrade and left were after. I cannot see a significant change in quality one way or the other. However, this upgrade was not about print quality as much as it was about building a better, quieter, and more easily aligned Y-Carriage (no bearing alignment needed only making sure the rail was aligned wit hthe frame), all of which I feel was achieved.

As usual things never go as planned...the endstop mount cause a foul between the endstop and the bed mount bracket prior to initiating. I had to improvise and move the endstop while still using the mount. I was able to do this by added the longer screws and a few nuts. Luckily I had tapped threads into the mount which made this last miunte change pretty easy. I'll design and print a new mount tonight.

I am so pleased with this setup I just order everything I need to the X-Carriage...I have designed and redesign X several times...it is proving to be a bit more difficult. I have a plan just need to get everything aligned prior to printing parts. therippa had asked about lead screws, but after seeing the cost more than double and the bulkiness of the setup would increase I'm going to try to make the belt drive work...at least for now ;-)

I'd be happy to generate a BOM and upload all the STL (and step) files if anyone that is interested...

Sonny

It's hard to tell the difference in noise from the video but I can't see how it wouldn't be quieter. I defiantly would like to see the BOM and STL's. Did you see any of the X axis's using vslot on thingiverse? [www.thingiverse.com]

If you listen to the "previous SETUP" video you can hear clicking/grinding sounds...they were the most annoying and completely eliminated :-)

I'll work on uploading the BOM and STL's this week...

I'll take another look at thingi, hopefully it will inspire me ;-)

Definitely could hear the clicking I just don't get the clicking on my stock setup so I am thinking that could have been eliminated. What I have heard on mine and others is a vibration kind of sound.

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tjnamtiw
[attachment 66503 tn_WP_20151124_006.jpg]

So far so good. PLA at 185, 0.2 layer, 65 speed. This thing is WAY too much fun! Stock extruder, stock carriages (although new ones are on my to-do list).

This one was awesome. So says my grand daughter, who confiscated it! Still hadn't trimmed him from all the support material. Also, my new roll of brown tangled up and starved the extruder, which is why the legs look sick! I'm glad I caught it before it was a total loss.



[attachment 66504 tn_WP_20151122_006.jpg]

And it's finally done!!! Smooth as baby's behind!

[attachment 66509 tn_WP_20151124_008.jpg]

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therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

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catbagan
Greetings! I received my 2020 last week. It's my first printer and I stayed up all night building it. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get any decent and my hot end got terribly clogged. It turns out the PTFE tube was damaged. I ordered a few replacement throats with the PTFE but I figured I check out the electronic surplus store over the hill. I was amazed that they had the exact PTFE tube that I needed! For $0.44/foot!!!

I just got back and decided enough with the test cubes; let's just try print something semi-useful using the stock PLA .ini config. And here it is! My first not completely failed print, a fan shroud (still need to clean it up though)! I'm super excited and wish that my Thanksgiving break from school was longer so I could get this printer calibrated and dialed in!

oF684V6.jpg

SIOmJ1X.jpg

Cheers all!

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sonnylowe

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therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

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elkayem
New prints from yesterday. 0% infill and no support material.

[attachment 66632 IMG_0907.JPG]

[attachment 66633 IMG_0903.JPG]

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elkayem

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sethmo
Elkayem that is pretty impressive. What mods have you done?

I've added an E3D lite6 hotend, and a full graphic LCD.

I also added a beefier X stepper motor, but I doubt that has made a bit of difference. A few weeks back, I thought my extruder was missing steps so I ordered a better stepper. Since then, I discovered it was a loose set screw, but not before I received the stepper. I put the new stepper on the X axis since the old one was running a bit hot.

Anyway, I'll bet you can get similar quality going 100% stock parts. The hotend was an inexpensive upgrade, and was added only to convince myself I was getting the most out of my printer.

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tjnamtiw

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elkayem

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sethmo
Elkayem that is pretty impressive. What mods have you done?

I've added an E3D lite6 hotend, and a full graphic LCD.

I also added a beefier X stepper motor, but I doubt that has made a bit of difference. A few weeks back, I thought my extruder was missing steps so I ordered a better stepper. Since then, I discovered it was a loose set screw, but not before I received the stepper. I put the new stepper on the X axis since the old one was running a bit hot.

Anyway, I'll bet you can get similar quality going 100% stock parts. The hotend was an inexpensive upgrade, and was added only to convince myself I was getting the most out of my printer.

With the E3D mounted on the X carriage, IF you still have the FT drive but just a new mounting block, how much lower does it extend than the stock hot end? I'm just wondering how much Z distance you lose.

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tjnamtiw

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elkayem

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sethmo
Elkayem that is pretty impressive. What mods have you done?

I've added an E3D lite6 hotend, and a full graphic LCD.

I also added a beefier X stepper motor, but I doubt that has made a bit of difference. A few weeks back, I thought my extruder was missing steps so I ordered a better stepper. Since then, I discovered it was a loose set screw, but not before I received the stepper. I put the new stepper on the X axis since the old one was running a bit hot.

Anyway, I'll bet you can get similar quality going 100% stock parts. The hotend was an inexpensive upgrade, and was added only to convince myself I was getting the most out of my printer.

With the E3D mounted on the X carriage, IF you still have the FT drive but just a new mounting block, how much lower does it extend than the stock hot end? I'm just wondering how much Z distance you lose.

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I also changed the way the motor attached to the X carriage, so it is mounted using the bottom two screw holes in the back of the motor rather than the top two. This reclaims all of the extra Z space taken up by the E3D.

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msaeger

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tjnamtiw

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elkayem

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sethmo
Elkayem that is pretty impressive. What mods have you done?

I've added an E3D lite6 hotend, and a full graphic LCD.

I also added a beefier X stepper motor, but I doubt that has made a bit of difference. A few weeks back, I thought my extruder was missing steps so I ordered a better stepper. Since then, I discovered it was a loose set screw, but not before I received the stepper. I put the new stepper on the X axis since the old one was running a bit hot.

Anyway, I'll bet you can get similar quality going 100% stock parts. The hotend was an inexpensive upgrade, and was added only to convince myself I was getting the most out of my printer.

With the E3D mounted on the X carriage, IF you still have the FT drive but just a new mounting block, how much lower does it extend than the stock hot end? I'm just wondering how much Z distance you lose.

You don't lose any space if you use animoose's trick.

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I also changed the way the motor attached to the X carriage, so it is mounted using the bottom two screw holes in the back of the motor rather than the top two. This reclaims all of the extra Z space taken up by the E3D.

[moosteria.blogspot.com]

The only issue I had doing it this was was the screws from the front hit the ones coming from the rear so I had to get shorter screws.

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therippa

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sonnylowe

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therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

Awesome, thanks for the files!

Also, did you see open builds is having a pretty good black friday/cyber monday sale? 25% most stuff. Yes, you did see that as well

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sonnylowe

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therippa

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sonnylowe

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therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

Awesome, thanks for the files!

Also, did you see open builds is having a pretty good black friday/cyber monday sale? 25% most stuff. Yes, you did see that as well

You're welcome!!

If you haven't placed your order with OB yet, I'd suggest enough SLOT COVER to close off all the top of the rail...I'm finding a lot of little bits get stuck in there...

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therippa

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sonnylowe

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therippa

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sonnylowe

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therippa
sonny - would you mind sharing the STL's? I think I'm going to get started on the y-axis thing soon.

Not at all...here ya go Y-Carriage STL Files (let me know if this link works!?!?)

FYI: I haven't tried V-4 of the endstop yet...but if it doesn't work I'm sure you can come with something quickly, or let me know how to adjust and I'll be happy to...

If you going to buy the OB parts do it tomorrow, they have a 10-25% off sale...

BOM

(1) V-Slot Gantry Set Plate​: 20mm ​- 80m​m (Un​ivers​al) Wheel​: Delri​n Sol​id V ​Wheel​s (look at the bundles)

(1) V-Slot™ Linear Rail Size: 20mm ​x 80m​m Lengt​h: 500mm Color​: Silve​r

(1) Precision Shim - 10x5x1mm (for idle pulley bearings)

(2) 5x13x4 (FLANGED) Metal Shielded Bearing F695-ZZ

(1) 20 GT2 20 tooth Pulley

(1.5M) GT2 Timing Belt

Misc: screws, tie raps, etc...

You can either buy more or use the 5mm T-Nut from the SK8s...the short screw that FT sent are the perfect length to mount it with the brackets I used.

BTW: I had an epiphany yesterday concerning the Lead Screws (LS) for Y or X axis...I am constantly moving the hotend carriage or bed manually (printer on or off), you cannot do that if you run the LSs, that in itself is enough for me not to do it...

Awesome, thanks for the files!

Also, did you see open builds is having a pretty good black friday/cyber monday sale? 25% most stuff. Yes, you did see that as well

You're welcome!!

If you haven't placed your order with OB yet, I'd suggest enough SLOT COVER to close off all the top of the rail...I'm finding a lot of little bits get stuck in there...

I placed an order for your BOM, plus an extra grantry kit (and needed pulleys, shims, etc), for the inevitable x-carraige rework. Let me know what you have going on with the x-carriage, or I might be tempted to make my own

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tjnamtiw
I'm happier than a pig in poop! I just finished three of these babies! It took a loooooooooong time but well worth it! They are beautiful. I also added the Z axis extension. I did note that the extensions' holes are too small for the boss on the bottom of the Z motors so I've changed the .stl file and will be printing new ones.

Oh, 190 C on first layer and 185 on the rest. 70 C on the bed with just hair spray on the tempered borosilicate glass from Amazon. Sticks like heck!


[attachment 65428 tn_WP_20151105_001.jpg]
[attachment 65429 tn_WP_20151105_003.jpg]
[attachment 65430 tn_WP_20151105_007.jpg]
[attachment 65431 tn_WP_20151106_002.jpg]