P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

here is my extruder cooling fan holder with inductive bracket to enable the ABL
hope you guys finds it useful
[www.thingiverse.com]

Nice work. thanks for sharing. How will you do the wiring ? I bought a Zonestar prusa i3 too, with the original ABL , but they forgotten it to put it in the package and a lot of other things too. It takes tree weeks to get all the stuff.
I had a lot of trouble with the quality of the parts delivered. Now I will try the ABL option, because the missing sensor arrived last week.

Kindly regards
Bernd

I have added V0.92 Repetier Firmware to the [drive.google.com]

What is better in 0.92 than 91?
What will change?

Vo.92 has better auto bed leveling and has corrected other issues.

Thank you your answer.
I'm beginner in my Zonestar P802. it is working only 4 days.
I dont have auto bed leveling. How do this type.
i dont have level adjuster, i have just 3 end switch.

oh i googled now i know, my P802M is not have auto leveling (sensor.)
but for a while, i can upgrade my printer with auto leveling. I think it can be work if i make senzor wire to end stop switch. and after that i have just upgrade my firmware ?

Quote
Robkadett
oh i googled now i know, my P802M is not have auto leveling (sensor.)
but for a while, i can upgrade my printer with auto leveling. I think it can be work if i make senzor wire to end stop switch. and after that i have just upgrade my firmware ?

I have installed Inductive sensoers on 3 of my P802M printers. The sensors are working as Z endstops. I have not been able to get the G29 command to work -- it does nothing. G28 works like a charm.
I have been following this forum discussion by do not comprehend what he is saying because he wants to have the Z axis zero on the max Z axis not the min Z axis. Maybe you can give some feed back that will help me get auto bed leveling working.
[forum.repetier.com]

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
Robkadett
oh i googled now i know, my P802M is not have auto leveling (sensor.)
but for a while, i can upgrade my printer with auto leveling. I think it can be work if i make senzor wire to end stop switch. and after that i have just upgrade my firmware ?

I have installed Inductive sensoers on 3 of my P802M printers. The sensors are working as Z endstops. I have not been able to get the G29 command to work -- it does nothing. G28 works like a charm.
I have been following this forum discussion by do not comprehend what he is saying because he wants to have the Z axis zero on the max Z axis not the min Z axis. Maybe you can give some feed back that will help me get auto bed leveling working.
[forum.repetier.com]

Hi GWC2795

Was your Melzi board marked as MELZI V3b by Zonestar?
Would it be possible to see or know how you connect your induxtive sensor?
And what type of sensor did you put?
Did you add power divider on your sensor or you just plugged directly to the three pins?
Thanks for sharing

I have MELZI V3b too.
im interesting in too, how do you assemby it
thanks lot

Hallo friends, I am using this sensor (inductive). It belongs to the zonestar kit I
bought some weeks ago. The working voltage is 3... 32 V. The switching distance to
detect the AL-heatbed plate is app.5 mm.
It should be connected instead the Z-endstop switch. The detection is working fine
but because I had burn up my melzi board I am trying to convert the original Melzi
firmware with auto bed levelling into a Marlin version for RAMPS 1.4., but untill
yesterday I was not very sucessfull.
Bernd

Quote
Bobyni

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
Robkadett
oh i googled now i know, my P802M is not have auto leveling (sensor.)
but for a while, i can upgrade my printer with auto leveling. I think it can be work if i make senzor wire to end stop switch. and after that i have just upgrade my firmware ?

I have installed Inductive sensoers on 3 of my P802M printers. The sensors are working as Z endstops. I have not been able to get the G29 command to work -- it does nothing. G28 works like a charm.
I have been following this forum discussion by do not comprehend what he is saying because he wants to have the Z axis zero on the max Z axis not the min Z axis. Maybe you can give some feed back that will help me get auto bed leveling working.
[forum.repetier.com]

Hi GWC2795

Was your Melzi board marked as MELZI V3b by Zonestar?
Would it be possible to see or know how you connect your induxtive sensor?
And what type of sensor did you put?
Did you add power divider on your sensor or you just plugged directly to the three pins?
Thanks for sharing

I have attached a drawing of the connect to the ZoneStar V3b board

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
Bobyni

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
Robkadett
oh i googled now i know, my P802M is not have auto leveling (sensor.)
but for a while, i can upgrade my printer with auto leveling. I think it can be work if i make senzor wire to end stop switch. and after that i have just upgrade my firmware ?

I have installed Inductive sensoers on 3 of my P802M printers. The sensors are working as Z endstops. I have not been able to get the G29 command to work -- it does nothing. G28 works like a charm.
I have been following this forum discussion by do not comprehend what he is saying because he wants to have the Z axis zero on the max Z axis not the min Z axis. Maybe you can give some feed back that will help me get auto bed leveling working.
[forum.repetier.com]

Hi GWC2795


Was your Melzi board marked as MELZI V3b by Zonestar?
Would it be possible to see or know how you connect your induxtive sensor?
And what type of sensor did you put?
Did you add power divider on your sensor or you just plugged directly to the three pins?
Thanks for sharing

I have attached a drawing of the connect to the ZoneStar V3b board

Thank you Veryso much,
so you connect only one pin to the signal?
or you connect all three cable onto the Z endstop socket S-+ ?

and what is your output voltage between the S and ground?
I just did on the bread board and it gives me 0.694V when not triggered and when triggered with metal, 0V

Quote
Bobyni
and what is your output voltage between the S and ground?
I just did on the bread board and it gives me 0.694V when not triggered and when triggered with metal, 0V

Mine is a normally closed sensor that gives off 4.84V when the sensor is not near metal, it sinks the the Z-min pin to 0.7V through the 680 ohm resistor when it is near metal.
Only 1 lead is attached to the Z-min as shown in the drawing.
Some sensors only supply 5V to the board logic whereas my sensor supplies 12V when not sensing metal. If your sensor supplies only 5V to the board logic you will not need the voltage divider circuit just connect the black wire to Z-min as shown in the drawing.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/11/2015 07:02AM by gwc2795.

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
Bobyni
and what is your output voltage between the S and ground?
I just did on the bread board and it gives me 0.694V when not triggered and when triggered with metal, 0V

Mine is a normally closed sensor that gives off 4.84V when the sensor is not near metal, it sinks the the Z-min pin to 0.7V through the 680 ohm resistor when it is near metal.
Only 1 lead is attached to the Z-min as shown in the drawing.
Some sensors only supply 5V to the board logic whereas my sensor supplies 12V when not sensing metal. If your sensor supplies only 5V to the board logic you will not need the voltage divider circuit just connect the black wire to Z-min as shown in the drawing.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain!!!
mine is NPN NO. when no sensing it is high and when metal it goes to 0V.
I am connecting all the connectors S-+, so the voltage divider protects the Melzi board.
I have follow the Tom's guide and changed a lot of Config.h and config-adv.h in Marlin.
and did not work.....
A member of a 3D forum from France says the MELZI can handle up to 12V that he connects he's sensor directly to the three pins WITHOUT the voltage divider....
I'm quite scared to do that... it is my only board, and don't want to blow it away!
I will try your connection, but did you change anything in your firmware?
I suppose you are using Repetier 0.91? or .92?

AGAIN really appreciate your help!!!!

Quote
Bobyni

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
Bobyni
and what is your output voltage between the S and ground?
I just did on the bread board and it gives me 0.694V when not triggered and when triggered with metal, 0V

Mine is a normally closed sensor that gives off 4.84V when the sensor is not near metal, it sinks the the Z-min pin to 0.7V through the 680 ohm resistor when it is near metal.
Only 1 lead is attached to the Z-min as shown in the drawing.
Some sensors only supply 5V to the board logic whereas my sensor supplies 12V when not sensing metal. If your sensor supplies only 5V to the board logic you will not need the voltage divider circuit just connect the black wire to Z-min as shown in the drawing.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain!!!
mine is NPN NO. when no sensing it is high and when metal it goes to 0V.
I am connecting all the connectors S-+, so the voltage divider protects the Melzi board.
I have follow the Tom's guide and changed a lot of Config.h and config-adv.h in Marlin.
and did not work.....
A member of a 3D forum from France says the MELZI can handle up to 12V that he connects he's sensor directly to the three pins WITHOUT the voltage divider....
I'm quite scared to do that... it is my only board, and don't want to blow it away!
I will try your connection, but did you change anything in your firmware?
I suppose you are using Repetier 0.91? or .92?

AGAIN really appreciate your help!!!!

Since my sensor is NC i changed the z-min-pullup to 0 but you will not need to do that since yours is NO.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/12/2015 05:08AM by gwc2795.

Quote
Bobyni

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
Bobyni
and what is your output voltage between the S and ground?
I just did on the bread board and it gives me 0.694V when not triggered and when triggered with metal, 0V

Mine is a normally closed sensor that gives off 4.84V when the sensor is not near metal, it sinks the the Z-min pin to 0.7V through the 680 ohm resistor when it is near metal.
Only 1 lead is attached to the Z-min as shown in the drawing.
Some sensors only supply 5V to the board logic whereas my sensor supplies 12V when not sensing metal. If your sensor supplies only 5V to the board logic you will not need the voltage divider circuit just connect the black wire to Z-min as shown in the drawing.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain!!!
mine is NPN NO. when no sensing it is high and when metal it goes to 0V.
I am connecting all the connectors S-+, so the voltage divider protects the Melzi board.
I have follow the Tom's guide and changed a lot of Config.h and config-adv.h in Marlin.
and did not work.....
A member of a 3D forum from France says the MELZI can handle up to 12V that he connects he's sensor directly to the three pins WITHOUT the voltage divider....
I'm quite scared to do that... it is my only board, and don't want to blow it away!
I will try your connection, but did you change anything in your firmware?
I suppose you are using Repetier 0.91? or .92?

AGAIN really appreciate your help!!!!

I have heard the same thing about the 12v but I decided not to put it to the test. One of my Melzi boards has already died, for no apparent reason, so I do not want to tempt fate. I did not put a 24V power supply on the printer because the caps are only rated for 25V. That fact makes me suspicious of putting 12V on the 5V pin.

Yeah, same way here.
Still fighting with the sensor.
Using your method I can not get the sensor to work.
Sensor is triggered but the signal is not taken and hot end would sink into the bed! :-(
Tried both endsrop_ ZMINpullup true / false same result
Inverting true/false same result
Connecting all three S-+ or S alone the sme
Did you had to change something else in config.h? Pun.h?
Really at cede of grabbing a hammer!!!

Quote
Bobyni
Yeah, same way here.
Still fighting with the sensor.
Using your method I can not get the sensor to work.
Sensor is triggered but the signal is not taken and hot end would sink into the bed! :-(
Tried both endsrop_ ZMINpullup true / false same result
Inverting true/false same result
Connecting all three S-+ or S alone the sme
Did you had to change something else in config.h? Pun.h?
Really at cede of grabbing a hammer!!!

I go this info that helped me. If you look you will find several posts where I am having problems with Repetier but finally go it worked out.
Main changes to the firmware
// #################### Z-Probing #####################
#define AUTO_LEVEL_DEBUG 0
#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE 1 //0
#define Z_PROBE_BED_DISTANCE 6 //4
#define Z_PROBE_PIN Z_MIN_PIN //-1
#define Z_PROBE_PULLUP 1
#define Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH 0
#define Z_PROBE_X_OFFSET 5 //0
#define Z_PROBE_Y_OFFSET 5 //0
#define Z_PROBE_WAIT_BEFORE_TEST 0
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED 2
#define Z_PROBE_XY_SPEED 200
#define Z_PROBE_SWITCHING_DISTANCE 0.3
#define Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS 2
#define Z_PROBE_HEIGHT 5
#define Z_PROBE_START_SCRIPT "G28 Y0 X0\n G1 X-40\n G28 Z0\n G1 Z5\n"
#define Z_PROBE_FINISHED_SCRIPT "G28 X0 Y200\n"

#define FEATURE_AUTOLEVEL 1 //0
#define Z_PROBE_X0 -30
#define Z_PROBE_Y0 -5

#define Z_PROBE_X1 50
#define Z_PROBE_Y1 -5

#define Z_PROBE_X2 50
#define Z_PROBE_Y2 160

#define Z_PROBE_X3 -30
#define Z_PROBE_Y3 160


I found that before I ran the G32 S2 (command to use with repetier) I had to do a g28 Z to home the Zaxis and then I moved the head around the bed to get the bed level. Once I did this no more head crashing and it now prints without a problem. As explained by the Repetier forum they expect you to home the Z axis to the top of the machine not to the bed, if you do that the bed does not have to be so level to get started. I have not had to level the bed since the first time.

Quote
gwc2795
I have added V0.92 Repetier Firmware to the [drive.google.com]

Hi ,can you load it as .Rar up ?

Quote
m@rkus

Quote
gwc2795
I have added V0.92 Repetier Firmware to the [drive.google.com]

Hi ,can you load it as .Rar up ?

I don't know what you mean.

Thank GWC2795!!
I will give it another try!
I think m@rkus wants the firmware be RAR file. compressed file...:-)

Both of my z motor mounts and my y motor mount cracked. Not a fan of acrylic.

After searching what I could, I gave up and modeled my own z and y replacement mounts. Just printed the parts on another i3 I have and installed them. They fit well and are near exact replacements.

Here are the STLs if you ever need them.

[www.thingiverse.com]

Also working on a power supply cover with a standard plug socket with a switch and fuse. I don't like hard wiring a power cord directly to a power supply. But need to dial it in a bit more and print a few more samples.

Quote
rtideas
Both of my z motor mounts and my y motor mount cracked. Not a fan of acrylic.

After searching what I could, I gave up and modeled my own z and y replacement mounts. Just printed the parts on another i3 I have and installed them. They fit well and are near exact replacements.

Here are the STLs if you ever need them.

[www.thingiverse.com]

Also working on a power supply cover with a standard plug socket with a switch and fuse. I don't like hard wiring a power cord directly to a power supply. But need to dial it in a bit more and print a few more samples.

WOW!!!
Thanks for making this available. Is it OK for me to add these to the P802M [drive.google.com] parts?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/21/2015 06:54AM by gwc2795.

you wanna check this out!!
[www.thingiverse.com]

Quote
gwc2795
WOW!!!
Thanks for making this available. Is it OK for me to add these to the P802M [drive.google.com] parts?

Certainly! I'd be honored.

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Bobyni
you wanna check this out!!
[www.thingiverse.com]

Fantastic!!!! I bet it does keep the X axis level. I have never seen anything like this.

Quote
Bobyni
you wanna check this out!!
[www.thingiverse.com]

Bonyni can I post this link on the google drive for the P802M?

I also have this printer. But it does not have auto bed leveling.
I was wondering if someone could create a step by step guide on how to add this to my printer. Preferably with links on which part you should print or buy. Because right now I'm very confused on what I have to do to get this feature.
Are firmware changes needed? How do you make those changes etc...?