P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

Hi, you can do that also in the Repetierhost menue configuration/ printer settings/ printer if the eeprom is activated in the firmware. The other possibility is to change the axis direction in the firmware that you have mentioned above. If you get an upload error you have propably not disconnect the printer from the computer befor uploading the compiled firmware, I think.

Good luck
Bernd

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bmark25116
Hi, you can do that also in the Repetierhost menue configuration/ printer settings/ printer if the eeprom is activated in the firmware. The other possibility is to change the axis direction in the firmware that you have mentioned above. If you get an upload error you have propably not disconnect the printer from the computer befor uploading the compiled firmware, I think.

Good luck
Bernd

Thx for the suggestions. My board was Melzi 2.0.

The issue was that I didn't load the correct board in arduino. So what I did to correct the Y axis was this:

Configuration.h

#define MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Y 		false
#define MAX_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Y 		true

#define ENDSTOP_Y_MIN_INVERTING 	false
#define ENDSTOP_Y_MAX_INVERTING 	true
#define Y_HOME_DIR 		1


Pins.h

#define ORIG_Y_MIN_PIN          -1
#define ORIG_Y_MAX_PIN          19

On the EEPROM side, I did some tweaking on the Y MAX Length to 260.

I use Arduino 1.0.5-r2 to compile V0.91 and do not have any problems. The later versions of Arduino IDE would not compile the V0.91. At least in my case.

The newer versions of Arduino IDE do not have support for the Sanguino (Melzi) board. This link [github.com] shows how to add the Sanguino (Melzi) board to Arduino IDE. For more information about different versions of Arduino IDE google -- how to add sanguino board to arduino ide

As mentioned above, I ended up using Arduiono 1.0.1 and it worked ok. Now my 3D printer prints normal. One more thing to add is to set up Y home position to 260 in the printer settings when using repetierhost. EEPROM settings to XYZ home all to 0.

Now I need to calibrate the printer for some known issues like first layer, oozing, etc.

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rtideas

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glimpse79
I really have trouble to print something with my P802M; the filament do not attach well so just at the second pass a part of the printed PLA goes away attacched to the nozzle.. any suggestions?

You have to get the first layer perfect. Without the first layer right, nothing else matters.

perfecting-first-layer-tips-and-tricks
perfecting-the-first-layer

Simplify3D is compatible with P802M?

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glimpse79
Simplify3D is compatible with P802M?

Yes if you set up for your machine. Start with an existing profile from Cura or the like and copy the values over. My computer took a dump on me so I lost some settings, and had to print replacements for my cracked motor mounts.Once I get it moving again, I'll work up a starting profile. Have been having inconsistent bed leveling.

Seems silly paying $150 for S3D for a $250 printer, but you have 30-days for a refund, and it has saved me time on some fiddly stuff. I tried it and kept it. But I currently have seven printers (some in various states of repairs or builds) and it has worked well with the ones I have tried. Faster than Cura. Great previews. Had better luck with Slic3r for printing finer details that Cura. Need to test it again against S3D.

Hi to all, what is the correct way to connect the printer to a mac client; i use and last version of repetier, setted usb port (default speed) and i can connect but i can't send command to printer.

Any suggestions?

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glimpse79
Hi to all, what is the correct way to connect the printer to a mac client; i use and last version of repetier, setted usb port (default speed) and i can connect but i can't send command to printer.

Any suggestions?

I have never used a mac so I can't address your issue with first hand knowledge. On windows you have to install FTDI drivers before the computer can see the Melzi board (FTDI has a driver for the USB chip on the Melzi). This is the link to the FTDI drivers [www.ftdichip.com] so you can select the proper driver and instructions for your MAC. On windows after installng the driver the printer will be on a USB port you can select.

Hope this helps.

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 01/05/2016 08:11PM by gwc2795.

Hi guy, I need your help. I also build an inductive Sensor at my prusa I3 zonestar p802m but i have Problems to configurat the config.h.

Hello, please look here, it is a nice description around setting and operating
the auto bed leveling feature. You have to activate the ABL Feature in the firmware and tell the printer the grid for the test points.

http://www.3d-proto.de/index.php?p=tips_autobed%23autobed


Bernd

Thx. That topic i Seen. Can you look the Videos and Fotos at my link if it look great the config.h? my drive

So I'm still working on auto bed leveling.
I'm completely lost on which sensor I should buy... I've read multiple suggestions but it came down to these ones:
- [www.ebay.com]
- [www.amazon.com]
- [www.ebay.com]

Which one do I need for this printer? What is NPN - PNP? I've read about having to add 15K and 10K transistors, ... is there a way to avoid doing that?

Hi Gehring 88, it looks good. Does it work? What Board do you have (Melzi or Ramps) I could send you different versions that are working with my printer per mail.
Or send me a phone number, so I can call you bach.
Bernd

Hi wotwood
The resistors are urgently needed to et the output Voltage to the right level . Or you cn buy a sensor from Zonestar where the resistors built in. There are different types of sensors (NPN or PNP is easy to say the switching direction) usually I think it NPN, but not at all you can adapt this in the firmware. If you do it like this guys, it will work.

[www.3d-proto.de]

Bernd

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bmark25116
Hi wotwood
The resistors are urgently needed to et the output Voltage to the right level . Or you cn buy a sensor from Zonestar where the resistors built in. There are different types of sensors (NPN or PNP is easy to say the switching direction) usually I think it NPN, but not at all you can adapt this in the firmware. If you do it like this guys, it will work.

[www.3d-proto.de]

Bernd

Website says:
Fatal error: Uncaught exception 'Exception' with message 'Error loading page.' in /var/www/web1205/html/Aleksand/app/class/ADT.php:40 Stack trace: #0 /var/www/web1205/html/Aleksand/web/index.php(93): ADT\ADT->loadContent() #1 {main} thrown in /var/www/web1205/html/Aleksand/app/class/ADT.php on line 40

If I change the url though, I can see the page. But it is in german. And Google translate does not translate it good enough for it to be understandable. Especially the technical parts. Do you have a link for that sensor from zonestar?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/1pc-Fotek-Proximity-Sensor-PL-08N-Sensing-Distance-8mm-NPN-out-DC10-30V-IP67-/140394864049

The type is PL-08N from different manufactures. Look at the link there is one for instannce.

Bernd

Hey,

I am new to the forums. I have a Zonestar P802M from aliexpress as well.

I am pretty happy with the results other then overhangs seem to curl up alot on the side opposite the blower fan. I have slowed down external perimeter printing and dropped the temp and that has helped quite a bit, but i think it could still be better. Has anyone added a secondary blow to the back side of the x axis? I might try the ring style blower to see if that helps cool the back end better.

I have downloaded as many of the parts as possible to make a new from but I am missing the main frame parts. Is there any source for those parts? I want to import those files in to a CNC cutter and cut an aluminum frame for my next iteration. The acrylic seems to flex a fair amount.

Well I just ordered an aluminum Y carriage because my acrylic carriage is warping about 1/4" once it hits 115 degrees. Sometimes it would stay straight for a while and warp mid print screwing it all up... So upgrade time. I also ordered all the parts to do the Z axis upgrade to using just 1 Z axis stepper. as I found my Z was off level about by close to 2 mm frequently.

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jnsbanman
Well I just ordered an aluminum Y carriage because my acrylic carriage is warping about 1/4" once it hits 115 degrees. Sometimes it would stay straight for a while and warp mid print screwing it all up... So upgrade time. I also ordered all the parts to do the Z axis upgrade to using just 1 Z axis stepper. as I found my Z was off level about by close to 2 mm frequently.

Post a link to the one you purchased. The screw holes on the ones I have found do not fit the P802.

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gwc2795

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glimpse79
Hi to all, what is the correct way to connect the printer to a mac client; i use and last version of repetier, setted usb port (default speed) and i can connect but i can't send command to printer.

Any suggestions?

I have never used a mac so I can't address your issue with first hand knowledge. On windows you have to install FTDI drivers before the computer can see the Melzi board (FTDI has a driver for the USB chip on the Melzi). This is the link to the FTDI drivers [www.ftdichip.com] so you can select the proper driver and instructions for your MAC. On windows after installng the driver the printer will be on a USB port you can select.

Hope this helps.

I installed the driver but as before i can connect but i can't send command; attached image could help.

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glimpse79

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
glimpse79
Hi to all, what is the correct way to connect the printer to a mac client; i use and last version of repetier, setted usb port (default speed) and i can connect but i can't send command to printer.

Any suggestions?

I have never used a mac so I can't address your issue with first hand knowledge. On windows you have to install FTDI drivers before the computer can see the Melzi board (FTDI has a driver for the USB chip on the Melzi). This is the link to the FTDI drivers [www.ftdichip.com] so you can select the proper driver and instructions for your MAC. On windows after installng the driver the printer will be on a USB port you can select.

Hope this helps.

I installed the driver but as before i can connect but i can't send command; attached image could help.

I solve by myself; i had to set the baud rate to 115200!

Quote
glimpse79

Quote
glimpse79

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
glimpse79
Hi to all, what is the correct way to connect the printer to a mac client; i use and last version of repetier, setted usb port (default speed) and i can connect but i can't send command to printer.

Any suggestions?

I have never used a mac so I can't address your issue with first hand knowledge. On windows you have to install FTDI drivers before the computer can see the Melzi board (FTDI has a driver for the USB chip on the Melzi). This is the link to the FTDI drivers [www.ftdichip.com] so you can select the proper driver and instructions for your MAC. On windows after installng the driver the printer will be on a USB port you can select.

Hope this helps.

I installed the driver but as before i can connect but i can't send command; attached image could help.

I solve by myself; i had to set the baud rate to 115200!

Way to go!! I forgot to mention the 115200 baud rate.

Hello everybody

I also have a P802M, and i have bought a sensor for auto levelling.
It's a Baomain LJC18A3-BZ / BX 1-10mm Capacité Capteur de proximité Commutateur NPN NO DC 6-36V 300mA.

I have create a support to use it.

Now the problem for me it's the configuration.
I have use your firmware gwc2795, and i thank you to have shared it with Google Drive

Here my Probe configuration :

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
// #################### Z-Probing #####################
#define AUTO_LEVEL_DEBUG 0
#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE true
#define Z_PROBE_BED_DISTANCE 4
#define Z_PROBE_PIN ORIG_Z_MIN_PIN
#define Z_PROBE_PULLUP 0
#define Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH 0
#define Z_PROBE_X_OFFSET -26
#define Z_PROBE_Y_OFFSET -48
#define Z_PROBE_WAIT_BEFORE_TEST 0
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED 2
#define Z_PROBE_XY_SPEED 200
#define Z_PROBE_SWITCHING_DISTANCE 0.3
#define Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS 2
#define Z_PROBE_HEIGHT 6
#define Z_PROBE_START_SCRIPT "G28 Y0 X0\n"
#define Z_PROBE_FINISHED_SCRIPT "G28 X0 Y0\n"

#define FEATURE_AUTOLEVEL true
//#define Z_PROBE_X0 80
//#define Z_PROBE_Y0 80

#define Z_PROBE_X1 90
#define Z_PROBE_Y1 90

#define Z_PROBE_X2 100
#define Z_PROBE_Y2 100

#define Z_PROBE_X3 110
#define Z_PROBE_Y3 110
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When i use G29 in Repetier Host, the probe doesn't use my first point (Probe X0 and Y0), the extrudeur go to HOME X and HOME Y, then it go to approximatly X150 and start levelling (But at HOME Y, the probe is out of bed :/ )
I don't understand why the extrudeur doesn't go to X80 and Y80 and then star levelling when i use G29.

Could you please help me, i don't know what i have to do
If you have any question, or want any parameters i have, that can help me to solve this problem, i will copy you here.

PS : Sorry for my bad English !

Damien

What are your typical slicer parameters?

Layer Heigh?

Perimeters?

Fill Density?

My goal is to reduce the "aliased" effect

Another goal is to limit or reduce to zero the "not coveded" zone of first layer

Any ideas?

Quote
bob69740
Hello everybody

I also have a P802M, and i have bought a sensor for auto levelling.
It's a Baomain LJC18A3-BZ / BX 1-10mm Capacité Capteur de proximité Commutateur NPN NO DC 6-36V 300mA.

I have create a support to use it.

Now the problem for me it's the configuration.
I have use your firmware gwc2795, and i thank you to have shared it with Google Drive

Here my Probe configuration :

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
// #################### Z-Probing #####################
#define AUTO_LEVEL_DEBUG 0
#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE true
#define Z_PROBE_BED_DISTANCE 4
#define Z_PROBE_PIN ORIG_Z_MIN_PIN
#define Z_PROBE_PULLUP 0
#define Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH 0
#define Z_PROBE_X_OFFSET -26
#define Z_PROBE_Y_OFFSET -48
#define Z_PROBE_WAIT_BEFORE_TEST 0
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED 2
#define Z_PROBE_XY_SPEED 200
#define Z_PROBE_SWITCHING_DISTANCE 0.3
#define Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS 2
#define Z_PROBE_HEIGHT 6
#define Z_PROBE_START_SCRIPT "G28 Y0 X0\n"
#define Z_PROBE_FINISHED_SCRIPT "G28 X0 Y0\n"

#define FEATURE_AUTOLEVEL true
//#define Z_PROBE_X0 80
//#define Z_PROBE_Y0 80

#define Z_PROBE_X1 90
#define Z_PROBE_Y1 90

#define Z_PROBE_X2 100
#define Z_PROBE_Y2 100

#define Z_PROBE_X3 110
#define Z_PROBE_Y3 110
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When i use G29 in Repetier Host, the probe doesn't use my first point (Probe X0 and Y0), the extrudeur go to HOME X and HOME Y, then it go to approximatly X150 and start levelling (But at HOME Y, the probe is out of bed :/ )
I don't understand why the extrudeur doesn't go to X80 and Y80 and then star levelling when i use G29.

Could you please help me, i don't know what i have to do
If you have any question, or want any parameters i have, that can help me to solve this problem, i will copy you here.

PS : Sorry for my bad English !

Damien

I had to add the following:
#define X_MIN_POS 45 //-45
#define Y_MIN_POS 5 //-5

Quote
glimpse79
What are your typical slicer parameters?

Layer Heigh?

Perimeters?

Fill Density?

My goal is to reduce the "aliased" effect

Another goal is to limit or reduce to zero the "not coveded" zone of first layer

Any ideas?

I change the slicer parameters based on filament and the item being printed
Layer Height 0.2 (usually)
Fill density 20 - 100 depending on object
I don't understand the not covered question

I have found I have to match the temperature to the filament and object being printed to get the best result. Most temperatures are in the 200C range.

Hello,
Yesterday I finished building the 3D printer (zonestar P802m). I printed a couple of pieces and all good. But this morning I went to turn the printer on and the display lights up, but nothing comes out, or the version of the firmware or anything. I have disconnected the USB cable and memory card and the printer is not working. What can happen?
voltage is ok
I think the firmware is out. How can i upload the firmware of this post?

Thank you in advance

What are your best quality object you've done?
In attach some tries (PLA).. how can i improve the realization? In my opinion my objects are mid-low quality

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gwc2795

Quote
glimpse79
What are your typical slicer parameters?

Layer Heigh?

Perimeters?

Fill Density?

My goal is to reduce the "aliased" effect

Another goal is to limit or reduce to zero the "not coveded" zone of first layer

Any ideas?

I change the slicer parameters based on filament and the item being printed
Layer Height 0.2 (usually)
Fill density 20 - 100 depending on object
I don't understand the not covered question

I have found I have to match the temperature to the filament and object being printed to get the best result. Most temperatures are in the 200C range.

About the not covered zones i mean the "filament net" leave some spots; look at the Darth Vader mask in attach