P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

@Glimps79
I've read that too, but I haven't bothered to try it since it is working fine with the heat on.

I just use blue painters tape, no problem with sticking. Bed leveling is the key.

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gwc2795
I just use blue painters tape, no problem with sticking. Bed leveling is the key.

you have the auto-leveling add on?

What's the way? I use a "spirit level" and check so many times the four angle and the center with the "classic" paper sheet beetween nozzle and the bed but still have issues...

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Gatchaman
@ gwc2795

Thinking about it I think it would be better if instead of posting all the stuff I typed in my previous posts about problems and answers just post a link to it from your very first post #1 but with a short summery of the issue.

Would still be helpful if the final post of the issue with conclusion was in.
Issue:
Possible cause:
Possible fix / solution:

Personally after tweaking the bearings I'm still stuck with

Issue: Cold boot / blank LCD / one red flash of the LED on the Melzi pcb......
[attachment 69826 small-WP_20160115_002.jpg]
Starting to think it would be better to leave it powered up 24/7 but I don't have a power meter to tell me how much juice the P802M sucks up in idle mode all with everything off. Can anyone out there tell us how much power the P802M sucks from the wall?
Possible cause: Dead / corrupt board.
Possible fix / solution: Checked the wiring and it's all good. Maybe re-flash the firmware? Haven't got a clue how though.

All P802M has a faulty back plate for the LCD!!
the LCD has a pot to adjust the contrast.
The back plate is totally wrongly installed, I think to save some screw/nuts.....

there's no spacing nuts that raise high enough to NOT compress the pot when you install the LCD onto the top frame!!
consequently, when you tied the holding screws to secure the LCD onto the frame, you will inevitably compress the back acrylic agaist the pot and causing all sort of issue....

fix:
1- de assemble the back plate and align the location of the pot and drill a hole so the pot is free been touching/compressed.
2- install spacing nuts, so when compressed it won't press the pot

hope this seve of help

Quote
NorcoT
ISSUE: Screen flickering on Zonestar Prusa / Reboot mid-print. When not printing it is fine, as soon as heated bed is on, extruder on and print in progress, my LCD would flicker and sometimes the printer reboots.

POSSIBLE CAUSE: The issue is the 5v step down voltage regulator on the Melzi print control board. When I measured the voltage output of the regulator when not printing it was fine, when measured during a print, the voltage fluctuated a lot and sagged, causing the printer to reboot. I suspect the cause is either a faulty regulator or something consuming excessive current. See my youtube video [www.youtube.com]

SOLUTION: There are multiple solutions, solution 1 is the easiest and its what I do now, printer works perfectly.

1) Change the Melzi jumper switch to power the control board through the USB circuit and not the voltage regulator, and plug in a USB cable to the computer or mains adapter.

2) Unplug the LCD screen and print using USB cable (some people have reported that this works)

3) Replace the voltage regulator on the control board with one which can handle higher current.

a Zonestar rep posted a fix for the flickering by adding a resistor to the Y end stop.
try to find that post in this forum

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Patrisio

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gwc2795
I can not over emphasize that you make sure the power wires from the power supply to the Melzi board are firmly attached at both the power supply the Melzi board. The Amount of power drawn by the extruder and the bed heater will cause rebooting if the connections are not tight. How do I know this? I have 4 of these printers and it drove me partially insane until I discovered a loose connection.
Good Luck

i did check all connections. The problem remains.

[www.dropbox.com] video of the problem
[www.dropbox.com] picture of the problem
[www.dropbox.com] picture of the problem

patrisio,
try to replace your USB cable and also try to change the usb port that you are using.
it looks like the USB/serial tried to connect to the board, but the connection fails.
you did not mention, if the restart would hapen also when the printer is stand alone (meaning un plugged fro the PC)
you need to isolate variables and maybe to uninstall FTDI driver and re install again, or verify the version of the FTDI since the newst version proven to have issue due to the clone chip is unsuported by the FTDI mfg.

hope this helps

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glimpse79

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gwc2795
I just use blue painters tape, no problem with sticking. Bed leveling is the key.

you have the auto-leveling add on?

What's the way? I use a "spirit level" and check so many times the four angle and the center with the "classic" paper sheet beetween nozzle and the bed but still have issues...

Make sure the x axis rods are the same distance from the y axis rods, that way the two axis will be parallel. Then lower the nozzle tip close to a corner of the bed and put a sheet of paper between the bed and the nozzle tip. Continue to adjust the tip lower using the adjusting nuts on the bottom of the bed support frame until you feel resistance when you move the paper, Repeat this procedure at all four corners. Then you have to do it again and again and again ... until you fell the the resistance at all four corners.
Using a level puts the bed level with the surface of the earth but the not parallel to the x axis.
Don't get frustrated this method works. I check for distance between X and Y axis each day before printing starts because skipped steps by the Z axis stepper motors gets them out of parallel.
I have the auto leveling turned on but it will not compensate correctly if the X and Y axis are not parallel.

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
glimpse79

Quote
gwc2795
I just use blue painters tape, no problem with sticking. Bed leveling is the key.

you have the auto-leveling add on?

What's the way? I use a "spirit level" and check so many times the four angle and the center with the "classic" paper sheet beetween nozzle and the bed but still have issues...

Make sure the x axis rods are the same distance from the y axis rods, that way the two axis will be parallel. Then lower the nozzle tip close to a corner of the bed and put a sheet of paper between the bed and the nozzle tip. Continue to adjust the tip lower using the adjusting nuts on the bottom of the bed support frame until you feel resistance when you move the paper, Repeat this procedure at all four corners. Then you have to do it again and again and again ... until you fell the the resistance at all four corners.
Using a level puts the bed level with the surface of the earth but the not parallel to the x axis.
Don't get frustrated this method works. I check for distance between X and Y axis each day before printing starts because skipped steps by the Z axis stepper motors gets them out of parallel.
I have the auto leveling turned on but it will not compensate correctly if the X and Y axis are not parallel.

thanks for all support!

I'll try and let you know.

(p.s. how can i also buy the auto-leveling add-on?)

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Bobyni

Quote
Gatchaman
@ gwc2795

Thinking about it I think it would be better if instead of posting all the stuff I typed in my previous posts about problems and answers just post a link to it from your very first post #1 but with a short summery of the issue.

Would still be helpful if the final post of the issue with conclusion was in.
Issue:
Possible cause:
Possible fix / solution:

Personally after tweaking the bearings I'm still stuck with

Issue: Cold boot / blank LCD / one red flash of the LED on the Melzi pcb......
[attachment 69826 small-WP_20160115_002.jpg]
Starting to think it would be better to leave it powered up 24/7 but I don't have a power meter to tell me how much juice the P802M sucks up in idle mode all with everything off. Can anyone out there tell us how much power the P802M sucks from the wall?
Possible cause: Dead / corrupt board.
Possible fix / solution: Checked the wiring and it's all good. Maybe re-flash the firmware? Haven't got a clue how though.

All P802M has a faulty back plate for the LCD!!
the LCD has a pot to adjust the contrast.
The back plate is totally wrongly installed, I think to save some screw/nuts.....

there's no spacing nuts that raise high enough to NOT compress the pot when you install the LCD onto the top frame!!
consequently, when you tied the holding screws to secure the LCD onto the frame, you will inevitably compress the back acrylic agaist the pot and causing all sort of issue....

fix:
1- de assemble the back plate and align the location of the pot and drill a hole so the pot is free been touching/compressed.
2- install spacing nuts, so when compressed it won't press the pot

hope this is of help

I took the LCD out of the equation by simply pulling the connection from the Melzi board but still no joy from the printer when powered by the psu or the usb. I sent a message to the seller on AliX. They said I'll have to flash new firmware. Waiting for files and instructions for how to flash as I type this message.... The time is 20:59 in China so the seller might have shut shop for now. Guess it might be a good time to hit the shops and see if I can find some felt washers while I wait....

And when I get to work , where my printer is, yes I'll have a look at what you said about the back of the lcd and I too have noticed that when putting the lcd display on the printer the lcd bends when tightening screws.

18/1/2016
Finally received the firmware and instructions from zonestar3d@aliyun.com.
Followed the instructions in the file and all I got was errors.
Looked at the step #5 -b57600 -e
Took a chance and changed the Com port speed to 57600bps. Before updating the firmware I made sure that the PC could at least read the firmware on the board without error after changing the baud speed and it could read the Melzi board after the baud rate change!
So did the Erase-write-verify waited for a minute and........


Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2016 07:13AM by Gatchaman.

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Bobyni

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Patrisio

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gwc2795
I can not over emphasize that you make sure the power wires from the power supply to the Melzi board are firmly attached at both the power supply the Melzi board. The Amount of power drawn by the extruder and the bed heater will cause rebooting if the connections are not tight. How do I know this? I have 4 of these printers and it drove me partially insane until I discovered a loose connection.
Good Luck

i did check all connections. The problem remains.

[www.dropbox.com] video of the problem
[www.dropbox.com] picture of the problem
[www.dropbox.com] picture of the problem

patrisio,
try to replace your USB cable and also try to change the usb port that you are using.
it looks like the USB/serial tried to connect to the board, but the connection fails.
you did not mention, if the restart would hapen also when the printer is stand alone (meaning un plugged fro the PC)
you need to isolate variables and maybe to uninstall FTDI driver and re install again, or verify the version of the FTDI since the newst version proven to have issue due to the clone chip is unsuported by the FTDI mfg.

hope this helps

Hello Bobyni,

Thanks for the reply,

The printer also keeps booting when the printer is stand alone. the re install of the drivers on mij pc i will try that any way. But ia have tried it on my desktop and laptop (both i7 and windows 10). i have even tried to set the jumper to usb power. still no succes.

Even tried to chance the frimware. but the Arduino program says com3 is busy when i am trying to upload.

Patrisio

Here some result.. the keyring in my opinion is good, the plane have some probs, what you suggest? what could be the causes?

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glimpse79
Here some result.. the keyring in my opinion is good, the plane have some probs, what you suggest? what could be the causes?

you still don't have levels bed.
You can see your skirt perimeter is uneven.
The left side is too close to the nozzle and the right side is too far

Quote
Patrisio

Quote
Bobyni

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Patrisio

Quote
gwc2795
I can not over emphasize that you make sure the power wires from the power supply to the Melzi board are firmly attached at both the power supply the Melzi board. The Amount of power drawn by the extruder and the bed heater will cause rebooting if the connections are not tight. How do I know this? I have 4 of these printers and it drove me partially insane until I discovered a loose connection.
Good Luck

i did check all connections. The problem remains.

[www.dropbox.com] video of the problem
[www.dropbox.com] picture of the problem
[www.dropbox.com] picture of the problem

patrisio,
try to replace your USB cable and also try to change the usb port that you are using.
it looks like the USB/serial tried to connect to the board, but the connection fails.
you did not mention, if the restart would hapen also when the printer is stand alone (meaning un plugged fro the PC)
you need to isolate variables and maybe to uninstall FTDI driver and re install again, or verify the version of the FTDI since the newst version proven to have issue due to the clone chip is unsuported by the FTDI mfg.

hope this helps

Hello Bobyni,

Thanks for the reply,

The printer also keeps booting when the printer is stand alone. the re install of the drivers on mij pc i will try that any way. But ia have tried it on my desktop and laptop (both i7 and windows 10). i have even tried to set the jumper to usb power. still no succes.

Even tried to chance the frimware. but the Arduino program says com3 is busy when i am trying to upload.

Patrisio

If you have disconnected your usb cable from the Melzi board and it still reboot by it self, try to disconnect all the connectors one by one to see if any of them would cause the reboot been stopped.
You need to isolate the board from any other cable that is connected to it.

This way, you could see wether the board is defective or something is causing the board to reset.

If the end, if the board is connected only from the power supply and no other cable are connected to it and ONLY the LCD is connected , then, film it and send it to the vendor to ask a board replacement!

Quote
Bobyni

Quote
glimpse79
Here some result.. the keyring in my opinion is good, the plane have some probs, what you suggest? what could be the causes?

you still don't have levels bed.
You can see your skirt perimeter is uneven.
The left side is too close to the nozzle and the right side is too far

Really non easy I'll try more and more..

But also.. what is a good kit to add auto leveling to my printer?

Quote
Bobyni



Patrisio

If you have disconnected your usb cable from the Melzi board and it still reboot by it self, try to disconnect all the connectors one by one to see if any of them would cause the reboot been stopped.
You need to isolate the board from any other cable that is connected to it.

This way, you could see wether the board is defective or something is causing the board to reset.

If the end, if the board is connected only from the power supply and no other cable are connected to it and ONLY the LCD is connected , then, film it and send it to the vendor to ask a board replacement!

Hello Bobyni,

I have disconnected al cables then the board is still rebooting. in this case 14 times and then it halted.
I have contacted my vendor. The are willing to solve the problem but their vendor says we are not taking it back. because the shipped the printer to my vendor in october. They say that my vendor has no warrenty left on the product. The fault came on my printer in Januari. My vendor has no printer left. and is not going to sell 3d printers anymore.

I found out that my printers melzi board is no longer for sale as a part. i have bougt an other replacement. My vendor says when its in and working. The want my bank numbers and the wil refund me that replacement board.

Quote
glimpse79

Quote
Bobyni

Quote
glimpse79
Here some result.. the keyring in my opinion is good, the plane have some probs, what you suggest? what could be the causes?

you still don't have levels bed.
You can see your skirt perimeter is uneven.
The left side is too close to the nozzle and the right side is too far

Really non easy I'll try more and more..

But also.. what is a good kit to add auto leveling to my printer?

The auto bed leveling is nice but it is hard to get it working.
You can contact zonestar3d@aliyun.com for the auto leveling kit. They can also send you the firmware with auto leveling. This is the company that makes the P802M.

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
glimpse79

Quote
Bobyni

Quote
glimpse79
Here some result.. the keyring in my opinion is good, the plane have some probs, what you suggest? what could be the causes?

you still don't have levels bed.
You can see your skirt perimeter is uneven.
The left side is too close to the nozzle and the right side is too far

Really non easy I'll try more and more..

But also.. what is a good kit to add auto leveling to my printer?

The auto bed leveling is nice but it is hard to get it working.
You can contact zonestar3d@aliyun.com for the auto leveling kit. They can also send you the firmware with auto leveling. This is the company that makes the P802M.

It's hard to mount? or to use?

You also know the price?

take a look here
[www.thingiverse.com]
it is my design for the captive sensor.
I did not buy from the seller, and created the holder for my sensor and made it to work.
sensor came from ebay
know how from Tom's Sanladerer
[www.youtube.com]
and then 5 nights of testing frustration and success.....
i use marlin and not the repetier for ABL

Quote
Patrisio

Quote
Bobyni



Patrisio

If you have disconnected your usb cable from the Melzi board and it still reboot by it self, try to disconnect all the connectors one by one to see if any of them would cause the reboot been stopped.
You need to isolate the board from any other cable that is connected to it.

This way, you could see wether the board is defective or something is causing the board to reset.

If the end, if the board is connected only from the power supply and no other cable are connected to it and ONLY the LCD is connected , then, film it and send it to the vendor to ask a board replacement!

Hello Bobyni,

I have disconnected al cables then the board is still rebooting. in this case 14 times and then it halted.
I have contacted my vendor. The are willing to solve the problem but their vendor says we are not taking it back. because the shipped the printer to my vendor in october. They say that my vendor has no warrenty left on the product. The fault came on my printer in Januari. My vendor has no printer left. and is not going to sell 3d printers anymore.

I found out that my printers melzi board is no longer for sale as a part. i have bougt an other replacement. My vendor says when its in and working. The want my bank numbers and the wil refund me that replacement board.

I see, good luck and looks like the the Atmel chip is gone... or the FTDI chip.

in this case, try to order RAMPS 1.4 with 8255 stepper drivers
if not, check Aliexpress.com under the vendor 3D star, they still have the Melzi board for sell.
other thing is, if you are good in electronic soldering, try to google MELZI board in youtube, there was a gentleman who did something to the 3.3 V that bypassed some line and to avoid the resting issue.... not sure if it is for your case, but I think you don't have anything to loose when the refund $ arrives to your account

good luck

Quote
glimpse79

Quote
Bobyni

Quote
glimpse79
Here some result.. the keyring in my opinion is good, the plane have some probs, what you suggest? what could be the causes?

you still don't have levels bed.
You can see your skirt perimeter is uneven.
The left side is too close to the nozzle and the right side is too far

Really non easy I'll try more and more..

But also.. what is a good kit to add auto leveling to my printer?

you could adjust half turns when it is applying the skirt and see the outcome live...
my method is to bring the hot end nozzle to the bed border and adjust the bed so when I push the nozzle to cross from empty space to cross onto the bed it slightly feel that it catch/ bump the bed's border....
hope this helps...
but since then, I have upgraded my printer with ABL

Quote
Patrisio

Quote
Bobyni



Patrisio

If you have disconnected your usb cable from the Melzi board and it still reboot by it self, try to disconnect all the connectors one by one to see if any of them would cause the reboot been stopped.
You need to isolate the board from any other cable that is connected to it.

This way, you could see wether the board is defective or something is causing the board to reset.

If the end, if the board is connected only from the power supply and no other cable are connected to it and ONLY the LCD is connected , then, film it and send it to the vendor to ask a board replacement!

Hello Bobyni,

I have disconnected al cables then the board is still rebooting. in this case 14 times and then it halted.
I have contacted my vendor. The are willing to solve the problem but their vendor says we are not taking it back. because the shipped the printer to my vendor in october. They say that my vendor has no warrenty left on the product. The fault came on my printer in Januari. My vendor has no printer left. and is not going to sell 3d printers anymore.

I found out that my printers melzi board is no longer for sale as a part. i have bougt an other replacement. My vendor says when its in and working. The want my bank numbers and the wil refund me that replacement board.

I accidentally shorted my Melzi board and I ordered this on [www.aliexpress.com]
I asked if they would load the firmware for the P802M and they did, A plug and play replacement with very fast shipping and a great price.

Quote
gwc2795

Quote
Patrisio

Quote
Bobyni



Patrisio

If you have disconnected your usb cable from the Melzi board and it still reboot by it self, try to disconnect all the connectors one by one to see if any of them would cause the reboot been stopped.
You need to isolate the board from any other cable that is connected to it.

This way, you could see wether the board is defective or something is causing the board to reset.

If the end, if the board is connected only from the power supply and no other cable are connected to it and ONLY the LCD is connected , then, film it and send it to the vendor to ask a board replacement!

Hello Bobyni,

I have disconnected al cables then the board is still rebooting. in this case 14 times and then it halted.
I have contacted my vendor. The are willing to solve the problem but their vendor says we are not taking it back. because the shipped the printer to my vendor in october. They say that my vendor has no warrenty left on the product. The fault came on my printer in Januari. My vendor has no printer left. and is not going to sell 3d printers anymore.

I found out that my printers melzi board is no longer for sale as a part. i have bougt an other replacement. My vendor says when its in and working. The want my bank numbers and the wil refund me that replacement board.

I accidentally shorted my Melzi board and I ordered this on [www.aliexpress.com]
I asked if they would load the firmware for the P802M and they did, A plug and play replacement with very fast shipping and a great price.

I have odered that board as wel. I thought it was no longer avalible now i can keep the connectors at mij stepper motors and switches. in the command line ia asked for the frimware.

Many thanks for the input you all

Something different, have any of you managed to print ABS without it warping?
I can only get my bed to go to about 92 max, while the recommended bed temp for ABS is 110.
Every time I print in ABS I start to see warping after a few layers. PLA works fine. I've tried hairspray and tape as adhesive, both without success.
Any tips for printing ABS on this printer?

Quote
woutwoot
Something different, have any of you managed to print ABS without it warping?
I can only get my bed to go to about 92 max, while the recommended bed temp for ABS is 110.
Every time I print in ABS I start to see warping after a few layers. PLA works fine. I've tried hairspray and tape as adhesive, both without success.
Any tips for printing ABS on this printer?

Check the output voltage on the power supply. The PS has an adjustment screw to allow tweaking of the voltage. After you get the voltage set try heating the bed to see if it is better, You can tweak the voltage to 13.5V if you want, it will not hurt the board.

I've also had the same issue with 3d star on the melzi board. They've sent the firmware but the instructions are terrible. Read the reprap and repetier sites as you need to use the correct arduino IDE and board info to load it. If you can I've logged a dispute as I can't re-flash the board.
Any help would be good for me I really don't want to have to buy another board
Any ideas on how to solve the problem on the arduino IDE not connecting I've tried the usual moving com ports.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2016 05:51PM by Scottjar.

Quote
Scottjar
I've also had the same issue with 3d star on the melzi board. They've sent the firmware but the instructions are terrible. Read the reprap and repetier sites as you need to use the correct arduino IDE and board info to load it. If you can I've logged a dispute as I can't re-flash the board.
Any help would be good for me I really don't want to have to buy another board
Any ideas on how to solve the problem on the arduino IDE not connecting I've tried the usual moving com ports.

the info you provide is very limited.
what version of the FTDI driver you used,
did you power cycle every time your PC after disconnecting your Melzi from your PC?
have you moved your jumper on your Melzi to select power type (USB/VCC)?

every time you want to flash your board you would have to use the USB powering the MElsi in order to get connected to your PC.
and the bouad rate to set at 115200 ,,,etc

hope this helps

Quote
Scottjar
I've also had the same issue with 3d star on the melzi board. They've sent the firmware but the instructions are terrible. Read the reprap and repetier sites as you need to use the correct arduino IDE and board info to load it. If you can I've logged a dispute as I can't re-flash the board.
Any help would be good for me I really don't want to have to buy another board
Any ideas on how to solve the problem on the arduino IDE not connecting I've tried the usual moving com ports.

Have you ever been able to connect to the Melzi board?
Did you install the FTDI driver on the SD card that came with your printer?
Are you using a MAC?

Ohh, it is very cool!

thank you !!!

Hello,
I'm also a owner of this printer (sold as "Hesine M505" the black acrylic one - firmware is the same:FIRMWARE_NAME:Repetier_V1.4 [zonestar3d.en.alibaba.com] ).
First some quick fixes of mine (if not already written in this thread):
1) My PSU is rated 15A (on the black hesine). This is much to low, turn the skrew on the PSU to max 13.5V for getting some degrees more on the heatbed and stability reasons. (Meanwhile I exchanged the PSU)
2) Isolate the heatbed on the backside (I have done it with a 5mm styrofoam plate wicked into aluminum foil and double sided heat proof tape)
3) Use thermal compounds between the heatbed and the alu plate. With this 3 fixes I got about 100 degrees on the heatbed without expensive modifications, (nearly) enough for printing ABS!
4) Place the whole printer on a rubber mat (as sold for loudspeaker) Gives me 2/3 less noise and less vibrations.
5) The Melzi board comes with a FAKE FTDI chip. So be careful which drivers (especially on windows) you install! Google for fixes and instructions ("FTDI brick")
6) My melzi board comes without bootloader (so you need an UNO or USBISP for updating the firmware)

And now some questions of mine:
I'll upgrade the printer for several reasons to RAMPS 1.4 and I wanna safe some entries from my original firmware, but I got really strange results out of the EPPROM settings:

EPR:3 3 100.0000 X-axis steps per mm
EPR:3 7 100.0000 Y-axis steps per mm
EPR:3 11 1600.0000 Z-axis steps per mm

These are all non standard values with our common components (M8 rods, pulleys, ....) according to [reprap.org] !
For example: X and Y should be around 80 and the Z-axis should be around 2560.
I'm not at home and I 've not done a big research (measuring all pulleys, belts-ptich,...)

So, can someone read out with repetier host the EEPROM settings and posting the results for those 3 values? Big thank you for this!

edit:
got some of the answers myself (after researching at the sellers aliexpress page)
Z Axis: With the calculator [prusaprinters.org] i got:
Motor step: 200, Driver: 16 steps, Leadscrew pitch (2mm - got this values from the sellers page), = 1600. But I can't believe it's not a metric M8 rod
for X and Y axis there must be "16" pulley tooth counts, I have to check this at home, so I got "100" according to spare parts from the seller he has the "16" teeth variants as standard product.

So the interesting question is - assuming there is only "one" master design for all those printers (afibot, hesine, P802, M505.....) and one master firmware, if all those printers are using (and shipping!) those 2mm rods AND the 16 teeth pulleys? If not, the buyer will have lots of troubles...

regards
Matthias

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2016 11:06AM by madias.

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Bobyni

Quote
Scottjar
I've also had the same issue with 3d star on the melzi board. They've sent the firmware but the instructions are terrible. Read the reprap and repetier sites as you need to use the correct arduino IDE and board info to load it. If you can I've logged a dispute as I can't re-flash the board.
Any help would be good for me I really don't want to have to buy another board
Any ideas on how to solve the problem on the arduino IDE not connecting I've tried the usual moving com ports.

the info you provide is very limited.
what version of the FTDI driver you used,
did you power cycle every time your PC after disconnecting your Melzi from your PC?
have you moved your jumper on your Melzi to select power type (USB/VCC)?

every time you want to flash your board you would have to use the USB powering the MElsi in order to get connected to your PC.
and the bouad rate to set at 115200 ,,,etc

hope this helps

Hi yes I've tried the drivers on the sd card and also used the power jumper via USB. My issue is no led on the board and also arduino IDE is not seeing the board when uploading to the board. I've tried alsorts.
What do you mean power cycle the pc.
I've had the baud rate set to 115200. What else do I need to to. I've been trying for over two weeks with nothing working.
Thanks
Scott