P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

@Bobyni
wow, very nice... dont forger to post after you clean everything and insert the printer !
i think ill do the same with the electronic on the back of the box in my setup

@madias
chack this out [octoprint.org]
if you have an rpi laying around ill say go for that (or even buy one..,)
im useing it with the fitst version of the Raspberry Pi and everything work awsome !
it can even give you timelaps video if you connect you usb cam
and it can slice for you (cure plugin) if your not home/near you favorite slicer program and only got stl file

Hi, I was wondering if someone could help me. Big thanks to all the contributors of this thread. You've been a big help to me as I'm tying to get the auto-leveling working for the P802M Zonestar 3D printer. I've downloaded the firmware from the Google Drive link, posted in this thread. When I go to compile the code in Arduino 1.6.6, I get an error message on the #define SDSS line, something about a valid pre-processing token. Has anyone come across this before? Many thanks

@JimsFlight
i had this,, if i remeber correctly (you can go back to page 7 or 8 i thuink) you need to uninstall arduino and install on older version... for me version 1.0.5-r2
and also intall the sanguino board arduino support

Quote
dsol
@Bobyni
wow, very nice... dont forger to post after you clean everything and insert the printer !
i think ill do the same with the electronic on the back of the box in my setup

@madias
chack this out [octoprint.org]
if you have an rpi laying around ill say go for that (or even buy one..,)
im useing it with the fitst version of the Raspberry Pi and everything work awsome !
it can even give you timelaps video if you connect you usb cam
and it can slice for you (cure plugin) if your not home/near you favorite slicer program and only got stl file

Thanks... I will..

I highly recommend OctoPrint. I've been running it on a Raspberry Pi 2 with another printer for a few months. It is a great addition. Control your printer from a web browser interface from any device (pc, phone, tablet) that is connected to it on your network. Add a camera to see a live feed and it will record time-lapse video of your print. It also draws the code paths--if your browser can handle the data. My favorite part, I can send files to it over wifi and it stores them. Handy for reprints.

It has a nice plugin architecture. There is a history plugin that keeps tracks of prints. Also, depending on your firmware (Repetier or now for Marlin) you can read and set the EEPROM. There are two plugins to email or message (through PushBullet) you when a job is complete--even sends an image if you have a camera hooked up. Add the TouchUI plugin and it adds a simplified interface for use on your phone or tablet.

I paid under $40 for the Pi2, under $10 for a 32B MicroSD card, about $15 for a Pi camera, under $5 for the usb wifi, had a few assorted cables, and less than $10 for a USB 2A power supply -- well under $100USD. Really takes a printer to the next level.

im with @rtideas on the octoprint... i had the very first rpi just connected to my tv as a steamer but the octoprint is much better use for it


and !!

i have a print problme

printed with ABS at 230c bed at 120c
0.3 lyaer highet with suppurt.. sliced in Simplify3D

anyone know why this happenes ??

They pics are looking....spooky.
Looks like a support problem (your angle is impossible to print without supports) and too much space between layers. Try 0.2 layers height and a little bit fan
Also - this happend to me: My PTFE (Tefon) tube inside the extruder skrew melted/burnt. This was using excessive temperature (more than 280c) while my thermistor was down. So the end of the tube was very narrow and only a little bit filament comes through. Also look if you noozle is jammed a bit. Extrude some filament and measure it out. If it's less than 0.4 than clean your noozle or examine the teflon tube.

and thanks for the octaprint tip! looks really amazing

when you flashing melzi you have to use lover verzion of arduino software not 1.6 but 1.06 and also driver for melzi you unzip senguino zip file to arduino drivers and use board senguino all you can find on my drive here [drive.google.com]

unscrew the bolt in extruder for minimum so that the gears lead the material down wos tidy enough you must see marks from the gears on your filament and then you have to callibrate extruder google it

i had exactly same problem you need reflash your melzi board you need instal arduino 1.06 software senguino board you have to add senguino board to arduino drivers when you flashing your melzi start arduino sowtware upload then hold reset button on your melzi until arduino sowtware finish compilation after you have to see your led on melzi is off otherwise is not succes you must try again

Hi All

Got my Zonestar P802N printer yesterday after a shipping nightmare with FedEx. Build was ok and completed in reasonably good time. I opted for the autolevel option and it works to a degree but seems it does not fully autolevel. The first test print which they include to do the autolevel test looks pretty rough though not a completely bad. The one issue I saw during this job was that filament was oozing out the top of the extruder and then running down to the tip. Would this be indicative of a clogged tip? Also the filament feed seems to struggle at times but I am not sure if that is because of the reel placement of the extruder gear not feeding smoothly enough.

Thanks for any advice
Ed

If anyone have made an enclosure for the Printer,
you should consider to print this out and add on to your printer!!!
I find it to be a must have thing!!

[www.thingiverse.com]

Cheers

Thanks for the information on page 7 to 9 about adding bed leveling (z probe). Finally after some hurdles I've made progress in that the printer will successfully measure 2 locations. The 3rd point misses the bed, but when I recompile the firmware with new probing locations it doesn't seem to change on the printer? Is this value stored in eprom or something?

UPDATE: Yes I found the EPPROM settings and changed the probe locations, it now succesfully probes 3 locations on the bed but then runs the G28 Home X and the printer hangs or restarts in the middle of the command!?.. Any ideas??

Also does anyone have a configured 0.92 repetier firmware for the zonestar? I have been comparing the differences from 0.91 zonestar vs the default repetier 0.91 to try and decipher the changes made for the zonestar so I can replicate and compile a 0.92 version, but it's taking a while. Differences I see so far are additional code for buttons, custom table for thermistor..

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/06/2016 06:32AM by NorcoT.

Hi, thanks dSol for responding. I got the firmware to compile okay using Arduino v1.0.5 r2, however, I've hit another snag with the updating the firmware. Just to confirm, I've got a board that's got Melzi v_3B written on it. There a quartz crystal on the board with 16 MHz written on it, but I want to make sure. Should I be uploading using the ATMega1284P (16MHz) board. I've used the 8MHz and it's worked, however I can't get the 16 to go. I keep getting this error message.

avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00

Also, I'm having trouble getting repetier host to connect to the printer now. Has anyone ran into this before? I think maybe I didn't install the Sanguino board correctly. Thanks

same happened for me... that not a real melzi board probably...
anyway enen if it is... try playing with the buildrate in the printer or from the repetier host untill you connect
keep in mind that for me, the buildrate is not the same in the printer and in the pc (the printer on 25k or so and the pc is is on 15k i think) and i run like this a few weeks and everything seem to work fine

Serial upload of the firmware never worked on my melzi board, so I decided to do it the ISP way:
Either you have a cheap USBASP dongle at home or you can use an Arduino UNO as programmer (google for UNO as programmer)
This worked every time for me, only drawback is that I've to disconnect the LCD (same pins) while upload. (I'm pretty sure that my melzi board was shipped without a bootloader)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2016 03:28AM by madias.

Hi guys,

Good news, dsol you were right! the baud rate of the printer and the settings in repetier host were different. I don't know why, but it seems to work alright. Repetier Host is set at 500,000 whereas the printer is set at 256,000. I've managed to flash some firmware and the printer menus and everything work a lot quicker. The firmware also has an autolevelling feature. Using some of the settings I found on this board I have gotten to the autolevel script to run. However, that is where the good news ends.

The bad news is that it's not running the positions on the plate. I'd tried editing the Z_PROBE_X1 e.t.c settings but it doesn't seem to change it at all.

The G-code I'm running at the start as the print is as follows;

G1 Z10;
G28 X0 Y0;
G1 X140 Y100;
G28 Z0;
G29;

Does anyone know how to change the Z-probing positions, or have a good configuration file I could use? Thanks very much, feel like I'm almost out of the woods.

Quote
JimsFlight
Hi guys,

Good news, dsol you were right! the baud rate of the printer and the settings in repetier host were different. I don't know why, but it seems to work alright. Repetier Host is set at 500,000 whereas the printer is set at 256,000. I've managed to flash some firmware and the printer menus and everything work a lot quicker. The firmware also has an autolevelling feature. Using some of the settings I found on this board I have gotten to the autolevel script to run. However, that is where the good news ends.

The bad news is that it's not running the positions on the plate. I'd tried editing the Z_PROBE_X1 e.t.c settings but it doesn't seem to change it at all.

The G-code I'm running at the start as the print is as follows;

G1 Z10;
G28 X0 Y0;
G1 X140 Y100;
G28 Z0;
G29;

Does anyone know how to change the Z-probing positions, or have a good configuration file I could use? Thanks very much, feel like I'm almost out of the woods.

try this page [www.repetier.com]
or try useing this tuturial, go down to the "firmware ----z probe" section [translate.google.com] (original link [www.hkepc.com] )

didnt got my the prob i orderd yet so cant help you more then that for now...

Quote
JimsFlight
The bad news is that it's not running the positions on the plate. I'd tried editing the Z_PROBE_X1 e.t.c settings but it doesn't seem to change it at all.

The G-code I'm running at the start as the print is as follows;

G1 Z10;
G28 X0 Y0;
G1 X140 Y100;
G28 Z0;
G29;

Does anyone know how to change the Z-probing positions, or have a good configuration file I could use? Thanks very much, feel like I'm almost out of the woods.

I figured this out last week, the Z Probe parameters such as positions 1,2, 3 and probe speed etc are stored in EPPROM. If you open repetier host, connect to printer and go to Printer > Firmware EPPROM settings (or something like that) you should get a window, here you should be able to set Z Probe positions without reflashing.

I found re-flashing the firmware, the Z-Probe positions you put in the config.h are ignored and the ones in the EPPROM are used, hence changing those values in the configuration.h did nothing. What firmware version are you using out of interest?


I have another problem now though, my Z-Probe correctly probes 3 positions on the plate, and returns the height values, but then the printer hangs or restarts during the Home X command. Anyone help? Heres a video of it.

[www.youtube.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2016 03:47AM by NorcoT.

One question which is the best config for CURA? I'm Using this one:
(FROM A HEPHESTOS MOD CONFIG) (i don´t use hot bed by now)

QUALITY:
Layer 0.2
Shell thichness 1.2
Enable retraction
FILL
Botton/Top tickness 0.6
Fill density 30
Speed and Temperature
Print Speed 60
Printing Temperature 225
Support
Support type Touching Buliplate
Plataform adhesion type Brim
Filament
Diameter 1.75
Flow 100.0
Machine
Nozzle size 0.4

Anyone that use Cura can upload the config file ?


Thanks.

Cheers man, I figured out the EEPROM stuff with a little help from dSol's forum link from the other day. Can't see I've observed mine hanging at all. Mine completes the auto level and everything however does something strange. It seems to auto level okay, but it "forgets" it's Z0 setting. As it goes to 3D print it immediately jumps up about 8mm off the bed and prints too high. Bloody frustrating. Still happy to share my configuration file, so you can verify if it works on your printer without crashing.

---EDIT ----

Just read some stuff about the amount of z steps per mm not being correct for some of you guys. I had noticed that the machine calls for a certain Z distance, however it moves too far up. I think I might be experiencing this issue. I will take a crack at it tomorrow and post back.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2016 07:40AM by JimsFlight.

Yes the configuration variables are a bit confusing! Still figuring out what they all do.

If you could share your firmware and configuration JimsFlight that would be awesome! Any chance you could pop it onto dropbox or google drive?

Quote
JimsFlight
Cheers man, I figured out the EEPROM stuff with a little help from dSol's forum link from the other day. Can't see I've observed mine hanging at all. Mine completes the auto level and everything however does something strange. It seems to auto level okay, but it "forgets" it's Z0 setting. As it goes to 3D print it immediately jumps up about 8mm off the bed and prints too high. Bloody frustrating. Still happy to share my configuration file, so you can verify if it works on your printer without crashing.

---EDIT ----

Just read some stuff about the amount of z steps per mm not being correct for some of you guys. I had noticed that the machine calls for a certain Z distance, however it moves too far up. I think I might be experiencing this issue. I will take a crack at it tomorrow and post back.

yaa.. the firmware update is for threaded rod for some reason and not for drive rod that you probably have...
you need to change that in that eeprom, sould be around 400 for the Z for drive rod, and do some manual mesuring to fine tone this number

I have been working on V0.92 firmware for my Zonestar P802M and I am happy to confirm I have got it working however without the LCD and UI at this time.

Video of it working: [www.youtube.com]

Note that I have not fully tested this yet, and the LCD / Buttons will NOT work with this firmware. I have also configured it using a Inductive proximity sensor (NPN Normally Closed) for z probing and auto bed level running off the Z Min Endstop pin, in series with the Z Min Endstop switch (configured for normally closed). Please do NOT use this firmware if the description I have given does not make sense as you may damage your printer.

My firmware is available from google drive, please only try if you know what you are doing:
[drive.google.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/11/2016 05:49AM by NorcoT.

I am printing the 20mm calibration cube and I am getting 20.4mm on the x and y axis. The Z is almost perfect (with in 0.1mm).

It is also producing little gaps in the outside perimater layers once in a while. I had to replace the throat to the hot end because I accidentally bent it (dumbass). It used to print the same cube with 0.2 accuracy. I would like all axis to be with in 0.1.

Now while I was waiting for the throat to come in I spent a fair amount of time re-enforcing the acrylic structure of this printer with aluminium angle. Although I would have expected that to improve the print quality.

Every so often the Z axis will whine when it moves. Should I lubricate the lead screws? If so with what? I have white lithium grease handy.

Thoughts are appreciated

@jnsbanman
i think 0.1 is a bit much, try getting 0.01-0.05 at max
all you need to do is to change the esteps for the axis from the eeprom
(what you got / what you want) * corent estep = new estep
so... (20.4/20) * axis estep from eeprom = new estep to insert the eeprom
repeat untill you got something you can live with

about the z axis.. had that probleme, its just that for some reason my i cant get my z to be leveld, the lest side is allways need to be higer then the right (that ok,, i ajust the bed to the same angle so the print is level)
i think it has something to do with the printed part that move alonge the Z not being printed very good from the seller, im planing on re-printing it.
anyway, what im saying is that dont force it, if it whine try to move it a bit higher/lower so it wont be under presure, after some time with the forse it can grinde the drive bolt or miss steps in Z mid print (and that will make the prints so ugly)

Quote
dsol
@jnsbanman
i think 0.1 is a bit much, try getting 0.01-0.05 at max
all you need to do is to change the esteps for the axis from the eeprom
(what you got / what you want) * corent estep = new estep
so... (20.4/20) * axis estep from eeprom = new estep to insert the eeprom
repeat untill you got something you can live with

about the z axis.. had that probleme, its just that for some reason my i cant get my z to be leveld, the lest side is allways need to be higer then the right (that ok,, i ajust the bed to the same angle so the print is level)
i think it has something to do with the printed part that move alonge the Z not being printed very good from the seller, im planing on re-printing it.
anyway, what im saying is that dont force it, if it whine try to move it a bit higher/lower so it wont be under presure, after some time with the forse it can grinde the drive bolt or miss steps in Z mid print (and that will make the prints so ugly)

These cheapy printers will get with in .05mm accuracy? I thought under .1 would be impossible. Interesting I will play with those calculations... I will be changing the Z axis to the upgrade on thingiverse for this printer. It is supposed to make things much better.

Just to let everyone know I got this thing to work. Here’s what I did, what I learnt and things I think will help you out to know if you’re struggling.
Hardware: Relatively easy, I used at LJ18A3-8-Z/BX proximity sensor. All that was required here was removing the existing Z- end stop, and wiring this up in its place. The Melzi board has a + - and Signal pin for each end stop. In this case, brown +ve, blue –ve, black Signal. I put a voltage divider in there to drop the signal down to 5v.

Software: I would STRONGLY advise booting up repetier host, pushing Alt+E to review your EEPROM settings and save them in a safe place in case you need them later…seriously do this first.
Firmware: I could only compile this firmware with the Arduino 1.0.5 r2 IDE. Install this.
Sanguino: Unzip this file, place it under Arduino -> Hardware. Then boot up the IDE
Board: For some reason (no idea why). The only processor that works with my printer is the ATMEGA 1284 8 MHz option.

Verify that the firmware can be compiled.

Hold onto your butt and push the upload button to flash the firmware.

When connecting back to repetier host, the host is on a Baud of 500,000, but the printer is set to 250,000. Again, no idea why but this seems to work.

Once you have flashed firmware, most of your settings can be changed in the EEPROM.

The distance from the bed to where the probe first activates should be measured and stored in the EEPROM.

Verify your sensors offset from the Nozzle, as this will make probing easier.

Pick 3 spots to probe on the bed, enter these into the EEPROM.

Run a G28 X0 Y0, then run G32 S2. The probe should zip around to your 3 points and take readings.

Make sure that when the command, G1 X100 Y100 Z0, is given, the probe just touches the bed. If this is the case, you’re finished. Otherwise increase the Z offset in the EEPROM and run another G32 S2

Well done If you have gotten this far. Next you need to verify that the X, Y, and Z steps correspond correctly to the movement the machine thinks it’s making. I used values around 400 steps per mm. Mark a spot, move 50mm then measure the error to increase or decrease the amount of steps per mm. For the extruder mark your material with a pen, move again, 50mm then measure the error to calculate out the steps.
Next print a test piece, running G code (G28 X0 Y0, G29) before the start of the print. I use a 20mmx200mm hollowed out cube. Check your dimensions for accuracy.

Not saying this is a definitive guide or anything, there’s a wealth of information in previous posts, this is just what worked for me. Here is a link to a google drive with everything I used in it. Thanks again to everyone on the forum for helping me out.

hi all

Don't know if this is any help but I bought this Zonestar and it included the Marlin firmware with the auto-level on the SD card. This auto-level does 9 points on the bed and uses G28 to home and then G29 to auto-level. Within the Marlin menu tree you can set your Z offset as required. I had an issue with the autolevel as mentioned before but it is working well now after I got my offset corrected.