P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

Here are a couple of pics of that test print you gave me.The print isn't great and I am guessing the skirt at the bottom can be enabled or disabled in Pronterface?The print looks ok to me with some issues with the characters on the ends of the legs.Let me know what you think?I was going to use the factory settings but they had the extruder temp for PLA at 180 so I bumped it to 195 and I just posted three pics so as to not clutter up the thread if the pictures are not allowed let me know and I will edit my post.I am also having some belt issues they seems to stretch quitea bit this last print the belt stretched so much that it was slipping.Are you guys using any belt tensioners or are there any known issues and solutions for that?








Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/02/2016 03:04PM by siblues.

Quote
siblues
Here are a couple of pics of that test print you gave me.The print isn't great and I am guessing the skirt at the bottom can be enabled or disabled in Pronterface?The print looks ok to me with some issues with the characters on the ends of the legs.Let me know what you think?I was going to use the factory settings but they had the extruder temp for PLA at 180 so I bumped it to 195 and I just posted three pics so as to not clutter up the thread if the pictures are not allowed let me know and I will edit my post.I am also having some belt issues they seems to stretch quitea bit this last print the belt stretched so much that it was slipping.Are you guys using any belt tensioners or are there any known issues and solutions for that?

s650.photobucket.com

s650.photobucket.com

s650.photobucket.com

Measure each of the axis. They should all be 60 mm.

They are all 60mm more or less I need to find my calipers to get a precise measurement.They seem to be really close though.Are the estimated times in Cura and Pronterface usually close to the real times?

The times are pretty close.
You need the calipers to measure the axis.

I am getting pretty consistent prints now but I have a few questions regarding the surface finish on the prints.What would be the setting that most affects the finish on the surface?Here are a few pics of my last print and are any of you guys running a fan on the board to keep it cool.I don't even know if that is a real issue and are you just wiring it up to constant so it is always running?Thanks for all the help so far.


Layer height 0.2
printing PLA at 200 and the bed temp was at 65 and the infill was 40.Any recommendations?

Looks good to me. That is until that last picture showed up!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/07/2016 05:31AM by gwc2795.

Well that's why I am asking. Could this be a bed to nozzle spacing problem or a settings issue.That is only like my 5 or 6 print so I am lost and trying to read as much as I can to get a better grasp of what to do?Any ideas or suggestions would be welcome with open arms?

What were the speed settings for that print profile? Post everything in the speed section. To me it looks like one of your perimeter settings might be off

I know I go on about speed but when I printed stuff and it got a bit like yours I had to learn by slowing things right down quite "a lot" then gradually building up speed to get a feel for the filament temp vs speed. For me the default speed settings from the seller/zonestar are ultra unrealistic.
And yes find and print belt tensioners. Watch this video for tips [www.youtube.com]
Also watch out for your x-axis rods slipping. The only thing holding the rods in place is friction! Search for and print x-axis rods end-stops or a new combined x-axis and belt tensioner combo which these printers should really be sold with, but hey we got what we paid for.....

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/08/2016 08:31AM by Gatchaman.

The speed settings are what Zonestar supplied out of the box.Print speed is 60 mm/s and travel speed is 120 mm/s.I didn't want to touch those since I was unsure if that was something I wanted to change before having a better knowledge of what is going on.I will take some advice from anyone who has much more experience than me and just keep the original settings marked down somewhere in case I need to revert back for some reason.

First things first.

The printer we've bought is actually 75% of a 3d printer, the other 24% is what you're going to print to make it more .....solid.
The last 0.9% is you and your tweaks, and how the printer feels to you. How satisfying is the output of the printer? Only you can be the judge of that.....until you post pictures on here ;-).
The last 0.1% is pure luck that the printer doesn't set your house on fire...... I'm not joking. Triple check everything that you buy from China that plugs into a power socket.

Second.
FORGET EVERYTHING Zonestar set as default and start from a low speed and go up by 5 to 10mm/s in the speed settings till you get to a point where you can get a nice delta between speed vs extruder temp vs retraction. I could have got those three wrong but anyone with more experience can step in.
Create as many slicer profiles as you need to until you get it right. I've got 28 test profiles that I built from 1 profile that printed just right at a slow speed. Tweaking as I've read things on here and watched vids on the tube.

Getting the printer just right will take time. Don't give up. Just..... slow.....down....... and build up a profile that suits your printer nozzle and filament.
I've had this printer on my desk now for a VERY long time. First thing was getting the sensor, then getting it working, and next was waiting for bearings to come from China to build belt tensioners, and sometimes I'm just too busy to play around with the thing. Now I have to re-learn how you use Blender3d or an other stl cad program. It's been 1.5 years or more since I got the printer and I still haven't got it to 99% LoL :-D

hi all,

i have a problem with my P802MA printer.
I tried to upload the firmware to activate the pid-heatbed.
But the printer dont started anymore.

So i thought it lost his bootloader.
I was able to upload the bootloader via Ardunio IDE and a arduino uno board as ISP.
In the same way i uploaded the firmware from this link: [drive.google.com]
After uploading firmware the printer only reacts by navigating via display-buttons.
Sometimes the printer stucks in the start phase and i have to start the printer two or three times to reach the "ready" screen on the lcd.
If i connect the printer with windows via usb (i installed the newest fdi-driver), i see the com-port connection but i cant communicate with the printer trough simplify oder pronterface.
A firmware upload via usb is impossible --> get.sync error.
Have anyone an idea what i can do?

I know my english is horrible, so i am very sorry for it.
Thanks in advance.

Don't worry about your English :-).

What is the baud rate of your com port?

Just looked at your first image again and it doesn't actually show the ' Port Settings' tab where you can change the bits per second value. Strange.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/14/2016 06:37AM by Gatchaman.

I made a screenshot for you with the com port settings.
But i also tried a baudrate with 57600 and 115200 (115200 was the value in configuration.h file) with the same results.
Stil no communication trough the usb port.
If it helps, i installed the ftdi driver from here [www.ftdichip.com] (64bit - 2.12.24)

I found in the inet some other firmware for the p802n with auto leveling (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x4qrnnjwgxl1ces/AAC9fGazj7iPcFAvvaWht1SDa/Melzi?dl=0)

And im thinking about it to upload the .hex file with the codes. I hope the bootloader incl. the firmware is in this .hex file. But i dont know how to upload? I must do it with the Arduino IDE trough the Arduino Uno board (Arduino as ISP).
Is it a try worth? Can you maby guide me with a small how to do?

Thank you for your help.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/14/2016 04:49PM by LuckyLoop.

Luckloop - as well as setting the right baud rate, make sure that the com port is set to auto so that windows can find it via the driver. If the driver is properly installed, the printer connected and turned on, then in device manager you should find an additional COM port under Ports - COM and LPT. Make sure that the correct driver name is set in the printer settings of the slicer.

Quote
LuckyLoop
hi all,

i have a problem with my P802MA printer.
I tried to upload the firmware to activate the pid-heatbed.
But the printer dont started anymore.

ter with windows via usb (i installed the newest fdi-driver), i see the com-port connection but i cant communicate with the printer trough simplify oder pronterface.
A firmware upload via usb is impossible --> get.sync error.
Have anyone an idea what i can do?

I know my english is horrible, so i am very sorry for it.
Thanks in advance.

I think that is your problem right there!
It is well known that Chinese board used a lot of " copy"chips of FTDI, consequently the original
Patent company has updated their drivers to block counterfeit one.

Please find yourself an older version of FTDI driver and it should solve your communication issues. Good luck

Quote
Bobyni

Quote
LuckyLoop
hi all,

i have a problem with my P802MA printer.
I tried to upload the firmware to activate the pid-heatbed.
But the printer dont started anymore.

ter with windows via usb (i installed the newest fdi-driver), i see the com-port connection but i cant communicate with the printer trough simplify oder pronterface.
A firmware upload via usb is impossible --> get.sync error.
Have anyone an idea what i can do?

I know my english is horrible, so i am very sorry for it.
Thanks in advance.

I think that is your problem right there!
It is well known that Chinese board used a lot of " copy"chips of FTDI, consequently the original
Patent company has updated their drivers to block counterfeit one.

Please find yourself an older version of FTDI driver and it should solve your communication issues. Good luck

Use arduino 1.0.6 to compile and upload the firmware. Some later versions do not work.

Hello everyone, I'm wondering if someone can assist me with my, possibly, simple issue. My issue is, is that my Z axis is only going down, in other words, it won't go up. I think the issue is in Marlin, but I don't know where to look, and what to change. If anyone has a solution to my issue, that'd be awesome.

Cheers

Help my printer lcd flashes random messages and will not take commands. If i leave it it will turn on heaters and steppers fire every once in awhile I don't know how to reflash and can't find out what kind of board it is to reflash. Please please please help im so frustrated

Just want to wish everyone a happy 3D printing new year!!!

I had a quick question regarding spool placement.I was able to print perfectly with the spool pretty much in any position as long as the filament had a pretty straight route tp to the printer and a long as it wasn't putting too much stress on where it enters the top.I now am having really bad issues where if I don't sit there and give it slack when it starts getting close to where it needs to pull on the filament to feed the print gets ruined.This is happening with just the weight of the 1kg roll on the supplied holder.I have a wall mounted spool holder on the way to see if mounting above the machine will help any.Any recommendations or experience on how to solve this problem or what may be causing it.I am using Foxsmart filament now and it seems a bit stiffer than my old filament.Tanks for the help

Can Connect but not Communicate with Printer
I have a new Tronxy P802MA printer.I can see the printer stats but it will not respond to my commands, I am using Windows 10 repitierserver and host ( 1.6.2). In repetier I can connect to it and I can see that it is trying to run commands but my printer isn't doing anything and won't communicate. When I try and send a print I get the error "No start signal detected - forcing start" and then “communication timeout - reset send buffer block” when I try and manually control from Repiter Host It says command waiting and gives the same error. I've gone through the setup wizard and it still doesn't work.

Tried all the different baud rates available. Downloaded the FDTI drivers and reinstalled. Looked up the counterfeit FDTI chips and mine seems legit
Tried multiple USB cables
Tried 2 separate W10 machines

Any suggestions or Ideas ?

Where are "all" the places have you changed the baud rate. Surprisingly there are quite a few. Check that they are all the same.
Go through the printer LCD menu until you find the baud rate option and change it there then save the eeprom settings.
I don't own a Tronxy printer so can't help you that much.

I just finished setting up my Tronxy p802m printer a few days back (which is my first 3d printer), and yesterday for hours attempted to get a successful print. Unfortunately I'm running into a strange problem. It seems every time I start a print, it will never heat the extruder nor the heatbed. I've double checked the gcode being sent, and attempted to print from repetier-host and straight from the SD plugged into the printer. I am able to successfully get them to heat by manually sending commands, but once I start a print the printer just turns them both off. I'm a complete beginner to 3d printing so I am completely clueless as to what is causing this, and for all I know the solution could be stupid simple but I just don't know what it is.

CyberQuake,

look again at the gcode files. Early in the file there should be a command M190 Sxxx which is the command to heat the bed to the temperature given by xxx and wait until this temperature is reached. This should be followed shortly after by the command M109 Sxxx which is a similar command to heat the extruder. If these commands are missing or either of the xxx values is zero then either the bed or the extruder (or both) will not heat.

Also check the settings in your slicer. There are settings under printer settings for the default bed and extruder temperatures (these are used if no other temperatures are specified, make sure that they are not set to zero). There is another set under filament settings in the slicer configuration, these set the actual bed and extruder temperatures required for the filament being used, these also should not be set to zero. Look also for a check box "use heated bed" or similar this should be checked if you want to heat the bed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2017 07:27AM by Supermec.

Supermec,
I've already checked the gcode to make sure it has the correct commands (in particular m190 and m109), as mentioned in my earlier post. I even tried adding them manually to the gcode to see if that would fix it. I also have checked the slicer settings multiple times, and both the hotbed and extruder temp settings are set correct based on the filament I am using and the instructions provided with the printer. I've tried reslicing multiple times as well, and rechecking the gcode. It seems when I send a whole print the heating commands just get ignored, whereas when I send them manually it seems to work just fine and heat the bed and extruder.

OK.

If the correct commands are in the gcode file, then the only other thing that I can think of is that there is something very strange with the set-up of the firmware of your printer. It possibly relates to the "wait until temperature is achieved" part of these commands. Sorry I can't be of more help.

I got it working. It seems plugging into USB for some reason borks the printer. I tried exporting it to use on SD (including making it a binary for repetier firmware) and then rebooting the printer with the SD inserted and USB unplugged. I can accurately replicate the problem by plugging it into USB and then starting a print, so I know for a fact that USB has something to do with it. I'll probably look into it later (maybe I can figure out if/how I can update firmware) but for now I can actually get things to properly print.

Hello folks!

As with the Marlin Firmware update (and skynet) I want to upgrade current software which my P802 is running now.
AFAIK i need to tune certain Header to make all Working for intstance the auto-level sensor distance from extruder.
Also during some prints i Have few i suppose logical questions connected to printer behaviour.
Why, on earth, during heating extruder and bed, fans are on full speed? (Extruder fan is preventing from filament spilage, but the "printing" fan? Why it is on full speed?)
Why homing and autoleveling catches AFTER extruder became fully heated? It makes filament spill scross the heating bed and is really nasty.
Why the "wiping across distances" dosen"t work?

I Have to admit that i use the stock pre uploaded on Melzi.

Kind regards!

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/15/2017 04:22AM by Evorowy.

Guys, I´m having the same issue as Evorowy...

There seems to be something very "mystical" about this chip and Firmware.
I also have the Melzi 3.0 V3 with the 1284P chip but it seems that the PIN1 is connected by default and anytime you want to flash something, it resets itself and the flash will be canceled.

Could this be right?

My Printer is a Tronxy P802MA with Marlin 1.0 (as it says in the bootloader)
Anything is working fine, it prints almost perfect with some tweeks but I want to change some things, I can only change in the configuration. Therefore I would need to update the firmware, but it seems to be impossible...

Any Ideas would be appreciated.

Hello folks
Not sure what version of Arduino IDE you all have to upload the firmware.
But my experience is that it has to be an older version of IDE in order to compile the firmware and flash it into the Melzi board.

That would be the first thing to check.

Then, I would assume that we all know that when flashing the firmware, there's a jumper at one end of the Melzi board that has to be On Or Off ( don't remember, Wiki it pls)

Then to change the VCC/USB Kumper so it allows you to connect via USB.

Hope this are the "little "things that you missed to properly flash in the firmware.

Mine was stock purchased on Nov 2015

Uploaded with Auto levelling. Firmware.

Cheers and Happy anew Year