P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

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phisik

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price00
Thank you phisik, i can't update the firmware from update utility you've provided.
I need to upload the bootloader first? i've a melzi 2/B

Please check if you have set everything as on the picture below. Check if you have all drivers installed and COM port detected correctly. Try different baud rates (-b57600 or -b115200). Try power cycling/resetting the board right before pressing "Write-Erase" button. It should do the trick. If not - take ISP programmer and reflash the boot loader that comes with Arduino IDE package.
[attachment 77645 flashingviaavrdude.png]

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JimsFlight
I think the Melzi board is pretty bricked

Can it be a EEPROM bug? Try executing the following commands in series M502 (Revert to the default "factory settings."), M500 (Store parameters in EEPROM). Try to upload HEX file (Arduino IDE places it in your Windows temp directory in build.xxxx sub-folder) with arvdude with full Write-Erase and Verify it afterwards. Once firmware is OK and EEPROM is cleared it should work, otherwise it is hardware problem.

Hi phisik, i've done flashing bootloader first . thank you for sharing your work.

Hi Guys , any of you been able to use autolevel with Repetier 0.92.9??? if i load the firmware without autolevel enable i'm ok, as soon as i enable it , the keypad does not work anymore !!!

I compiled Repetier with autolevel, keypad was ok. I used there online config tool and just selected Zonestar 5 ADC button keypad and analog pin 1 on "User interface page". Be careful setting up autolevel with Repetier, as opposed to Marlin it not have "safe autolevel" function and things may go wrong if you z-home when probe is out of the bed.

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phisik
I used there online config tool and just selected Zonestar 5 ADC button keypad and analog pin 1 on "User interface page".

did exactely that, but keypad does not work for me . If i simply change this line #define FEATURE_Z_PROBE 1 , to 0 , keypad comes back to life but autolevel is disable !!!

I don't understand what's going on !!!

Hi Guys!
I'm new around here but i found this topic to be extra helpful (why not make it a forum already? ).
I am currently working with CStar P802M

I hope i can get your help with an issue i experienced. i have decided to upgrade my melzi controller board to fastbot bbp1s


The Fastbot controller runs Octoprint which is amazing but also very frustrating because there are so many advanced configuration i dont know how to configure and it damages the prints heavily. here are some things:

1) Extruder is working "too fast" - after 1-2 minute of printing standard pla, every seconds of extrusion the extruder hiccups once (like it cannot push down the filament) and then continues until the next one
2) the printer becomes faster as printing time continues (believe me it becomes very very scary, you could swear things will start flying in the air)
3) there are inconsistencies with the extrusion of the PLA - most probably due to the speed of the system.
4) the 3d printer has a size of 220x220x220 - when i put a file in the middle of the bed, it still starts 30-40% to the left

I know that this tread is not about Octoprint, but what i would like to do is to somehow get all the configuration from the current melza board i have and then put it into the octoprint for example x,y,z speeds.
can anyone the configuration or tell me how to download the firmware from the board so i can test for myself?
I added the pictures from my octoprint


Thanks!!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/20/2016 04:39AM by funkyp.

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mindstorm88
I don't understand what's going on !!!

Have you correctly defined Z_PROBE_PIN? If you use z endstop, have you set Z_PROBE_PIN to ORIG_Z_MIN_PIN? Have you used voltage divider after inductive/capacitive sensor to gain 5v out of 12v?

If nothing helps try my Marlin sources 2 page earlier. I do not have any issues with that.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/20/2016 06:13AM by phisik.

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phisik
I compiled Repetier with autolevel, keypad was ok. I used there online config tool and just selected Zonestar 5 ADC button keypad and analog pin 1 on "User interface page". Be careful setting up autolevel with Repetier, as opposed to Marlin it not have "safe autolevel" function and things may go wrong if you z-home when probe is out of the bed.

What do you think about repetier vs marlin?

Take a look on previous page. It's all there

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funkyp
can anyone the configuration

Anyone hardly can help you in this thread. Your hardware is completely different (32-bit 1GHz Cortex-A8 vs 8-bit 20MHz atmega). You have to compile and flash Octoprint by yourself. Arduino code Marlin/Repetier/etc directly addresses CPU registers for code efficiency and its for sure incompatible with Cortex.

I have attached my Configuration.h from which you can extract steps per mm, starting PID values and other default prusa setting.

I found that it helps to pack a little insulation material under the bed to help the heat remain on the bed.

I have added the latest version of Marlin firmware to the [drive.google.com].
It is a zip file located in the firmware > marlin folder

This is the latest version that supports 5 button display, SD card and auto leveling on the P802MA

enjoy

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/05/2016 04:59PM by gwc2795.

Can someone share a precompiled version of last repetier firmware with ABL?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/07/2016 09:22AM by price00.

Thanks!!!

There is a bug in the thermistor table where they have switched two values around so that when the thermistor hits 240C, it jumps to 250C instead!
It was driving me crazy!

Easy fix now by editing the table to swap around the two values...

Hello.

I bought a 3D printer in China (http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_293805.html). I just receive it and I have a big problem to assemble.

The bed support (H shape) on which are mounted bearings was not well cut. Indeed the bearings are not all in the same place as smooth 8mm bars.

I found on Thingiverse laser cutting plans that exactly match my printer model. By cons how to cut? Because the file format is "DAE" and not in "AI" or "SLG".
[www.thingiverse.com]


I have access to a laser cutter to use but it would take me the file in the right format (SVG or AI).

Help!

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gwc2795
I have added the latest version of Marlin firmware to the [drive.google.com].
It is a zip file located in the firmware > marlin folder

This is the latest version that supports 5 button display, SD card and auto leveling on the P802MA

enjoy

I do not recommend using this code. It was taken from here and is based on first stable version of Marlin 1.0.0. It has some problems pairing with Repetier Host, lacks about 30 Gxxx/Mxxx command (e.g. M851 - Set Z probe's Z offset) and by this moment should be considered outdated. I suggest switching to the latest 1.1.0-RCx releases.

Thanks for the info. I posted this because this is the latest being used by zonestar for their P802MA printer. I don't doubt you are correct; but for someone that wants the firmware shipped with the printers from the factory this is it.

Gerry

DAE (Digital Asset Exchange) is a file extension used by COLLADA (Collaborative Design Activity) as a standard for interoperability between various software that support interactive 3D applications. COLLADA is a freely available standard owned by Sony and by the non-profit association Khronos Group, and it was adopted by a large number of 3D application developers, including Alias, Criterion and Autodesk.

You can convert to AI

[www.reaconverter.com]

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miro_mar
Finally I've ordered a new Melzi board. 3D printing is working fine now. So it seems that the problem was due to the old Melzi.
Once I'll have some free time, I will change the Atmega1284P in the old Melzi, burn bootloader with suggested fuses, load firmware and test to see if the root cause was in the 1284P processor or not

I've changed the Atmega1284P on the defective Melzi board. I've burned a bootloader and now I'm able to upload firmaware on my Melzi.
I want to test a print to ensure that it is working fine, hence confirm that my problem was due to a defective Atmega1284A.
Which repetier firmware .hex should I use ? preferably supporting auto-level

People have used both 0.91 and 0.92 Repetier firmware for auto leveling.

Hi, as a proud owner of a P802m (tronxy variant) I am running into some beginners problems. And looking for some help and guidance.

I detected the same error as described in [forums.reprap.org]; so I started to dig around in things and contacted the seller. Very helpful guy btw. It came down to the need to flash the bootloader and firmware. This had to be done through the little pins at the bottom of the board (next to the usb connector) with an arduino uno. It could be that some part of the controler has died/fried as well. But that is not my first guess.

The test cube with cilinder on top (dia 4cm) was printed very well, from micro usb card. Afterwards the situation as mentioned above kicked in. Any communications with the printer through usb port will hang up the printer.

So I tried to get the thing working of-line. This went well, but a repetier-host created gcode file (with slic3r) will make the printer move, but the extruder motor is not giving filament. The motor doesn't make any attempts to move at all.
I checked and extrusion through the menu is possible, as well as retraction. So hardware things work.

What needs to be set or changed in the repetier-host and slic3r settings to make the printer do as meant instead of do as told?

Any help or new insight is very much appreciated!

Best regards, Kiezel

Did you reset the little pins at the bottom of the board?

Yes, nothing is attached to the 6pins at the bottom. The board itself is powered by USB (with the pinsettings changed accordingly). PSU power is needed to make the motors run. The board doesn't communicate with repetierhost, but accepts gcode through the micro usb.

Have a new Prusa anet a8 i3. Starts up and temp sensors read 24c on extruder and -51c on hotbed for just a second then they both read def. printer seems to be stuck in dry run mode and cannot be switched out. I've tripled check connections, checked voltages, and hit the reset button on board. Any ideas? Please help!

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faroutmm
Have a new Prusa anet a8 i3. Starts up and temp sensors read 24c on extruder and -51c on hotbed for just a second then they both read def. printer seems to be stuck in dry run mode and cannot be switched out. I've tripled check connections, checked voltages, and hit the reset button on board. Any ideas? Please help!

I had the same problem with the hot end thermistor. How many ohms is the bed temp reading? It should be about 100k. Try switching the hot end plug with the bed plug and see if the negative temp moves to the hot end.

I replaced my hot end thermistor in frustration. I also wedged aluminum foil into the hole in the hot end to get it tight again the hot end. Won’t help on the bed... I still get an occasional hot end def but wiggling the connection and restarting has resolved it (the new thermistor has a similar end but not identical-I need to cut the old one off and soldier it to the new thermistor ). Paul...

I've uploaded the followong .hex to the Melzi board :
- repetier 0.91 : print test worked fine but didn't test auto-level
- Marlin V1.0 Tronxy : print test worked fine with and without auto-level

If you encounter errors like :
22:12:32.989 : Warning: Seems like we missed a ok, got a wait - continue sending.
22:12:33.009 : Error:expected line 279 got 285
22:12:33.009 : Resend:279
22:12:33.039 : Error:Wrong checksum
22:12:33.039 : Resend:281
22:12:33.059 : Resend:281
22:12:33.109 : skip 281

most probably your Atmega1284P is dead and needs to be replaced

Hi folk,
I'm new in forum and so I'm a newbie.
I bought a few days ago a Prusa Tronxy P802E from a reseller that sent it me already build and ready for working.
After first adjustment and fix I success to print my first objects.
Now I was going to working to fix some other little stuffs like tension of x axes. To do that I make a simple box to test it.
Before now I had always print from printer using command display. Now I tried repeatier client. But I cannot print the box because hot bed not warming.

Is it possible that client updated firmware on printer?

Is P802M firmware compatible with mine P802E?

Every other parts work correctly: extruder warming, X,Y,Z motor moves.

Thanks a lot, and sorry for my english.

D.

I received a new Melzi board from the online store, connected everything and the printer communicates with the computer. So far so good!

But new question: it seems like the printer is doing a dry run and not excrementing the filament. What setting is off? Where do I have to look to fix this?
Any help appreciated!

Best regards, Kiezel

Zonestar recently open a official discussion group in Facebook

[www.facebook.com]

we can post there, questions and accomplishments

Has anyone removed the stock hotend and added a E3D v6 hotend or similar full metal hotend?

I would like to be able to print materials hotter then 260c so I need a full metal hotend. And seems like the V6 is probably the best. Just not sure if the stock mounting plate can be used or if I need to make something up or find something on thingiverse.

Open to suggestions for other full metal hotends. Would prefer to stay with a direct feed as well.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2016 12:46PM by jnsbanman.

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phisik
I have adjusted the Marlin RC5 code to run on P802M with 5-button ADC keypad. I like it more than Repetier 0.92. It is configured already to use inductor sensor instead of Zmin endstop (I used LJ12A3-4-Z). You are to adjust Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER which is a distance from bed to nozzle tip at the point where sensor switches. Or you may set it later by M851 z-1.23 command (replace 1.23 with your offset in mm). If you don't have auto bed leveling you will have to disable it in Configuration.h and select proper endstop pullups. Just in case I have attached my sensor mount which is a remix from here.

To enable keypad support ADC_KEYPAD should be defined. Configuration.h file also introduces a type 501 100K thermistor B3950 which comes with Zonestar, disable it if you don't need ones.

I have attached a path to official RC5 version, so it should be easier to adapt future Marlin releases.

PS Most credits go to "jfd" from here for ideas and Marlin support for our keypad. However I had some problems with his firmware and Repetier-Host (since it was older Marlin version) and had to move to the latest RC.

Can you show me how you connect the sensor to the board?

THANKS