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P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread

Posted by gwc2795 
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bitslapper
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 15, 2016 11:21AM
Yup I'm using IDE v1.0.6. Nice that you didn't have to mess with the bootlaoder smiling smiley . It's ok though I wasn't using the direct SD card printing anyway.

I got my sensor all hooked up. It's getting power now and outputting about 4.6v to the sensor pin. I havent connected everythin to the printer yet because im making my mess of soldering and wires look at least decent if not pretty winking smiley .

Are you saying i shouod only connect the positive sensing pin and not the negative/ground wire to connector on the printer?

Again thank you for the help smiling smiley
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Bobyni
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 16, 2016 12:44AM
I connected only the Sig
When open =o
When triggered = high ( 4.6V)

When testing, have your Z up to the middle of the frame, then tray to home all, and have handy a piece of metal ( screw driver would work).
If z is coming down try to trigger the sensor.

I always have my finger on the power off switch, just in case it goes too deep and hit the bed..

Etc....

Good luck
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Bobyni
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 16, 2016 05:58PM
Aluminum Bed Plate....

Dear all,
I believe the new Zonestar P802N has a aluminum plate for the hot bed.

Would you please confirm?

I've tried to contact Zonestar, but no answer yet from them.
basically, our 802M model which is all acrylic and 6mm thickness, would not stand high temp when printing ABS for log/big prints.
Mine was deformed, due to high temp plus electronics failure.

I think it would be a good idea to replace the acrylic bed to a metal one...
11
If you have any info, or has upgraded your bed, please leave your comment... well appreciated!!! Thanks!
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bitslapper
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 17, 2016 01:03PM
I got the sensor working smiling smiley .

Now i just need to get it as close to the head z position as possible as my prints were coming out crappy and not sticking since the head was way too high.

I was messing with the position last night and got way too over zealous as the head smashed into the bed and proceeded to drag in the x dir -_- ... luckily i had blue painters tape on so it softened the blow a little. I really need a power switch as unplugging from the wall takes way too long.

Hopefully tonight ill get it running properly smiling smiley

Edit: Mine came with an aluminum bed but I haven't tried printing in abs yet, only in pla. The heated bed works nice to help the pla stick at about 60c . I haven't seen warping but i haven't been printing for too long and have onpy printed small test items so far...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2016 01:06PM by bitslapper.
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Bobyni
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 17, 2016 06:59PM
Quote
bitslapper
I got the sensor working smiling smiley .

Now i just need to get it as close to the head z position as possible as my prints were coming out crappy and not sticking since the head was way too high.

I was messing with the position last night and got way too over zealous as the head smashed into the bed and proceeded to drag in the x dir -_- ... luckily i had blue painters tape on so it softened the blow a little. I really need a power switch as unplugging from the wall takes way too long.

Hopefully tonight ill get it running properly smiling smileyj

Edit: Mine came with an aluminum bed but I haven't tried printing in abs yet, only in pla. The heated bed works nice to help the pla stick at about 60c . I haven't seen warping but i haven't been printing for too long and have onpy printed small test items so far...

Great! Hehehe that happened to me too, it went deep and scored the blue tape!
Once rou have the good distance of Z end, adjust the z offset from the printer key directly... By default it is set to 0.5.
Cheers!

Them, mine was the first batch of e printer that were sold on Aliexpress! Or we are not talking the same thing!
I am saying the H form support plate that on top, we mount the heated bed and then the aluminum plate...
I need to upgrade my SUPPORT from acrylic to metal
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Steppdroid
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 18, 2016 04:47AM
Hi guys i try to porting last Marlin firmware for Zonestar P802M and others ... some expert might check my config file? Thank you! Sorry for my bad english!
[pastebin.com]
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bitslapper
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 18, 2016 01:46PM
Quote
Bobyni
Quote
bitslapper
I got the sensor working smiling smiley .

Now i just need to get it as close to the head z position as possible as my prints were coming out crappy and not sticking since the head was way too high.

I was messing with the position last night and got way too over zealous as the head smashed into the bed and proceeded to drag in the x dir -_- ... luckily i had blue painters tape on so it softened the blow a little. I really need a power switch as unplugging from the wall takes way too long.

Hopefully tonight ill get it running properly smiling smileyj

Edit: Mine came with an aluminum bed but I haven't tried printing in abs yet, only in pla. The heated bed works nice to help the pla stick at about 60c . I haven't seen warping but i haven't been printing for too long and have onpy printed small test items so far...

Great! Hehehe that happened to me too, it went deep and scored the blue tape!
Once rou have the good distance of Z end, adjust the z offset from the printer key directly... By default it is set to 0.5.
Cheers!

Them, mine was the first batch of e printer that were sold on Aliexpress! Or we are not talking the same thing!
I am saying the H form support plate that on top, we mount the heated bed and then the aluminum plate...
I need to upgrade my SUPPORT from acrylic to metal


Ahh ok. Yea that part on mine is acrylic also. It would be nice to have that part be Aluminum.

So my auto leveling is working now but the prints are pretty terrible -_- . I haven't gone back and changed the offset so maybe that's an issue?

Here's some images of my latest print. It was supposed to be a sensor mount that included a fan duct...






Have you seen this before?

I checked and the nozzle isn't jammed.

I even went through the process of unjamming it just in case.


Edit the imgur links don't work so im attaching the images.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/18/2016 01:47PM by bitslapper.
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Attachments:
open | download - bad_print_2.jpg (56.3 KB)
open | download - bad_print_1.jpg (67 KB)
Bobyni
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 18, 2016 03:35PM
Bitslapper, definitely you would need to adjust the Z off set!!! You are away from the bed and that's way there isn't enough "pressure" from the nozzle to "compress" the extruded plastic.

Eg.02mm resolution, nozzle 0.4mm then the nozzle should start not at Z=o rather Z=0.2 .

But when using the Sensor, the sensor is higher ( further) than the nozzle you would need to let the board to know that info.

So it would start at z=0.2

Make sense?
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bitslapper
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 19, 2016 09:48AM
Quote
Bobyni
Bitslapper, definitely you would need to adjust the Z off set!!! You are away from the bed and that's way there isn't enough "pressure" from the nozzle to "compress" the extruded plastic.

Eg.02mm resolution, nozzle 0.4mm then the nozzle should start not at Z=o rather Z=0.2 .

But when using the Sensor, the sensor is higher ( further) than the nozzle you would need to let the board to know that info.

So it would start at z=0.2

Make sense?

Yea that makes sense. OK I'll try that.

So I need to adjust the Z Offset for the nozzle resolution correct?

Also, is there a base Z position that needs to be adjusted for the distance between the nozzle and the sensor?

Thank you for the help!


Edit:

OK I think I might understand what you were talking about a little better now....

So, if I understand this correctly, the variable Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER in the firmware is the mm offset from the extruder.

Then there is a separate value in the printer settings you manually enter in slicing software later for the resolution of the nozzle?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2016 10:16AM by bitslapper.
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Gatchaman
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 19, 2016 10:55AM
Hmmmm. Looking at the picture it looks like the extruder might be a bit too hot, and slow the print speed down to begin with.

Try to print a Filament Temp Calibration Tower.
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Bobyni
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 19, 2016 07:38PM
Quote
bitslapper
Quote
Bobyni
Bitslapper, definitely you would need to adjust the Z off set!!! You are away from the bed and that's way there isn't enough "pressure" from the nozzle to "compress" the extruded plastic.

Eg.02mm resolution, nozzle 0.4mm then the nozzle should start not at Z=o rather Z=0.2 .

But when using the Sensor, the sensor is higher ( further) than the nozzle you would need to let the board to know that info.

So it would start at z=0.2

Make sense?

Yea that makes sense. OK I'll try that.

So I need to adjust the Z Offset for the nozzle resolution correct?

Also, is there a base Z position that needs to be adjusted for the distance between the nozzle and the sensor?

Thank you for the help!


Edit:

OK I think I might understand what you were talking about a little better now....

So, if I understand this correctly, the variable Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER in the firmware is the mm offset from the extruder.

Then there is a separate value in the printer settings you manually enter in slicing software later for the resolution of the nozzle?

I did not touch the firmware, rather to work with the on screen menu and once I get the value and test print okay I save it in Eepron from the onscreen function.
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bitslapper
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 20, 2016 09:37AM
Quote
Gatchaman
Hmmmm. Looking at the picture it looks like the extruder might be a bit too hot, and slow the print speed down to begin with.

Try to print a Filament Temp Calibration Tower.

Thank you for the suggestion.

The problem turned out to be the extruder gear getting gunked!
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bitslapper
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 20, 2016 09:40AM
@Bobyni

The problem turned out to be the extruder gear getting gunked.

It eventually locked up on me last night.

Seemed that the filament was flowing nicely but all of a sudden there was a clunking type noise in the extruder and eventually filament stopped coming through.

I opened up the extruder and there was hardened plastic stuck in the gears -_- .

I didn't have time to finish fixing it before having to gop to sleep last night so hoipefully I'll have everything up and running again tonight winking smiley .

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/20/2016 09:40AM by bitslapper.
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Bobyni
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 20, 2016 11:18PM
Hum mm
I have never ever got that!
Try to adjust the pressure from the screw that pressure the gear.
It should be strong but not that strong....... The sweet spot

And good luck!
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bitslapper
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 21, 2016 09:09AM
Quote
Bobyni
Hum mm
I have never ever got that!
Try to adjust the pressure from the screw that pressure the gear.
It should be strong but not that strong....... The sweet spot

And good luck!

I'll try that as I'm working on it again tonight.

The wife hinted that I should stop working on the printer for one night and I'm no fool winking smiley .
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Bobyni
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 21, 2016 08:23PM
hahaah.... same here...
I have a 5 years old and my time is "all" about to be 5 mins to 25 mins then after the little one goes to bed....

I totally get that!!!
happyt wife ....happy print

lol

cherrs
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ScottyBoyo
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 22, 2016 02:53PM
im not sure if this belongs here but my machine is a Pursa I3 Pro so ima put it here

I added a bed leveling sensor to my Printer and enabled all the Auto bed leveling code but the safe homing feature doesnt seem to work when homing the machine it just goes to the end of the bed and then goes down and with no end stop it just hits the bed and keeps trying to go down the safe homing code tells it to go to the center of the bed before homing the z axis but the machine doesnt do it im using marlin software and will include the current file uploaded to the printer any help would be appreciated as i have yet to get a successful print from this machine.
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Attachments:
open | download - Configuration.h (32.3 KB)
Bobyni
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 22, 2016 03:06PM
Quote
ScottyBoyo
im not sure if this belongs here but my machine is a Pursa I3 Pro so ima put it here

I added a bed leveling sensor to my Printer and enabled all the Auto bed leveling code but the safe homing feature doesnt seem to work when homing the machine it just goes to the end of the bed and then goes down and with no end stop it just hits the bed and keeps trying to go down the safe homing code tells it to go to the center of the bed before homing the z axis but the machine doesnt do it im using marlin software and will include the current file uploaded to the printer any help would be appreciated as i have yet to get a successful print from this machine.
I think you would need to go to ultimaker to ask, unless you are using the wrong firmware.
This thread is machine specific. You probably could try the general forum to start with..
We all use Melzi board, not ultimaker's

Try to start without the sensor, to see if it works. Contact your seller for updated firmware,

There is no enough info to help you, plus if we do not know what is your printer, I or other might not be able to help!
Hope this help you to narrow down your search for help!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/22/2016 03:18PM by Bobyni.
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Gatchaman
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 24, 2016 12:38PM
Progress so far.

My mr128 bearings came on Friday so fitted them to the z-axis holders. Printed the z resonance test file and apart from a slight ripple on X and Y ( check the pictures) I think the printer is 90% good to go.

Things to print before I think it's 99.99999999....%
Belt tensioners and GT2 idlers for the x and y axis.

When I print a GT2 for the x idler I'll reverse nopheads belt flip trick to see if that makes a difference to ripple.

The major ripple seems to kick in at around 10cm high and I think it's more pronounced when the extruder goes up a level and starts to extrude filament. There's an (energy) wave coming from somewhere that ends up in the printed part as ripple. Lower levels are buttery smooth......ish ;-).

While I'm searching for a printable 20 tooth GT2 idler I think I'll flip the belt on the y-axis then print another z-resonance test just.... to.... see... what...happens....
Wish there was a Sherlock Holmes pipe smoking smiley

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2016 09:31AM by Gatchaman.
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Attachments:
open | download - small-WP_20161024_001.jpg (478.4 KB)
open | download - small-WP_20161024_002.jpg (374.6 KB)
open | download - small-WP_20161024_003.jpg (491.7 KB)
open | download - small-WP_20161024_004.jpg (524 KB)
siblues
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 26, 2016 03:59AM
Hello, I just wanted to ask a few questions before I receive my P802NR in the mail on Friday.I am extremely new to this and I am just trying to read and gather as much information as possible.I have a few questions regarding a lot of the available slicers.The manufacturer of my machine Zonestar is recommending Kisslicer and I have downloaded it and cura and repetier just to get a feel for each one.I am leaning towards Cura and or Repetier.The kisslicer seems a bit basic out of the box and looks like you need a better grasp of how all this works to set it up properly.I just wanted to ask what you would recommend as a slicer for someone like me.I am wondering what printed parts I can make on the printer to fix some of it's known issues like supports , motor mounts , cooling fan mounts or the like?Thanks for the help
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gwc2795
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 26, 2016 07:20PM
Quote
siblues
Hello, I just wanted to ask a few questions before I receive my P802NR in the mail on Friday.I am extremely new to this and I am just trying to read and gather as much information as possible.I have a few questions regarding a lot of the available slicers.The manufacturer of my machine Zonestar is recommending Kisslicer and I have downloaded it and cura and repetier just to get a feel for each one.I am leaning towards Cura and or Repetier.The kisslicer seems a bit basic out of the box and looks like you need a better grasp of how all this works to set it up properly.I just wanted to ask what you would recommend as a slicer for someone like me.I am wondering what printed parts I can make on the printer to fix some of it's known issues like supports , motor mounts , cooling fan mounts or the like?Thanks for the help

I would suggest you start with the most widely used free slicers until you get enough experience to know what you you need for the type of projects you will be printing. I would recommend you install Repetier-host which installs both Cura and Slicer3 by default. Both of these programs are very capable and will allow you to slice moderately complex projects with very good results. I used these two slicers for over a year until my projects became to complex. I purchased Simplify3D slicing software which solved the problems I encountered.
Using the popular free software you will be able to use the web and forums to get support in a timely manner, and they both have a fairly easy learning curve. Kisslicer is not as popular as Slic3r or Cura.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/26/2016 07:21PM by gwc2795.
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siblues
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 26, 2016 10:47PM
Thanks a lot.I was already leaning in that direction and the only reason I even mentioned Kisslicer is because the manufacturer recommended it and I tend to try to keep things as simple as possible in the beginning.What would be some of the most common things to worry about with this printer to start off with.Does it have any design flaws that can cause a first timer like me issues?I have stocked up on wear and tear parts ahead of time and I was recommended using a .3mm nozzle for cleaner prints.I am not too worried about extending the print times right now since I am just doing this for fun and personal use.The printer is in a location that is a little dusty so I am thinking about using some corugated plastic to make a simple and most likely ugly enclosure but the more you read online the more you want to do because of all the horror stories so I figured I would ask in here for what I really should be worried about.
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gwc2795
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 27, 2016 06:33AM
Quote
siblues
Thanks a lot.I was already leaning in that direction and the only reason I even mentioned Kisslicer is because the manufacturer recommended it and I tend to try to keep things as simple as possible in the beginning.What would be some of the most common things to worry about with this printer to start off with.Does it have any design flaws that can cause a first timer like me issues?I have stocked up on wear and tear parts ahead of time and I was recommended using a .3mm nozzle for cleaner prints.I am not too worried about extending the print times right now since I am just doing this for fun and personal use.The printer is in a location that is a little dusty so I am thinking about using some corugated plastic to make a simple and most likely ugly enclosure but the more you read online the more you want to do because of all the horror stories so I figured I would ask in here for what I really should be worried about.

They are dependable printers. The first thing is to print test objects to determine adjustments you need to make in the slicing software as well as the EPROM. I have attached a zip file that contains a calibration object named YACO. Be aware that it is a health danger to print with ABS in an enclosed area, you have to provide exhaust to remove the small particulate matter given off in the printing process, it is very dangerous. I print with PLA.

My advice is to follow the calibration instructions that come with the printer and print the YACO object. Proceed from there until the YACO is 60 mm on all axis.

The size of the nozzle is up to you and affects the print times well as the quality of the finish in a well adjusted printer but in a poorly adjusted printer will not make much difference.
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Attachments:
open | download - Untitled.zip (11.5 KB)
siblues
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 27, 2016 07:43AM
I am going to be printing with PLA and maybe PETG but I have a lot of stuff to get done before I start thinking about that.I saved that test print and thanks for that.I will try to get the printer running as smoothly as possible and I will check back in here if I have any issues.Which I am sure I will.
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ESalamanca
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 29, 2016 02:44AM
Hello Forum, My name is Edgar and I have a Zonestar P802(hits why im here). I have a question on how to change the nozzle position in the firmware? I've changed my hotend to a E3D v6 Bowden from the stock direct drive extruder. By changing the X Carriage for my E3D v6 it has put am offset form the stock nozzle position. and I've been looking around and I cant find anything. Please Help, Thank you
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siblues
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 31, 2016 01:29PM
I also have a problem.I am trying to print that test print you were nice enough to help me with and the nozzle keeps hitting the bed.I have never used one of these so I am lost on what to do.I have everything set up and everything is powering up and seems to be working as it should but as soon as I try to print anything the nozzle just drops on to the bed?
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Bobyni
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
October 31, 2016 09:01PM
try to adjust the hot bed screws to start with.
Follow the instruction given by the mfg on how to level the bed.
Or search in YouTube to see Tom's video.

It is the first thing you would have to learn after you assembled the printer.
Then a lot of reading!
Use the search to find topics of your issue or doubts.

Cheers
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siblues
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
November 01, 2016 03:48PM
Well with a lot of help from a good friend it's up and running.I just wanted to ask about leveling the bed.I have seen a few videos on everyones own version of the right way to do it.I just have one question regarding the sensor on the extruder.The sensor comes in contact with the bed before the actual nozzle.I can adjust the sensor up and down but it will take a little dissasembly to get to one of the screws.I just want to make sure the sensor is what needs to be adjusted and not the actual nozzle?
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Bobyni
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
November 01, 2016 05:37PM
Quote
siblues
Well with a lot of help from a good friend it's up and running.I just wanted to ask about leveling the bed.I have seen a few videos on everyones own version of the right way to do it.I just have one question regarding the sensor on the extruder.The sensor comes in contact with the bed before the actual nozzle.I can adjust the sensor up and down but it will take a little dissasembly to get to one of the screws.I just want to make sure the sensor is what needs to be adjusted and not the actual nozzle?

good to know you got it running...

sensor...? the inductive one that come with your printer?
did you check the installation docs form Zonestar?
usually , well always the sensor is after the nozzle...
if your sensor is lower than the nozzle, then it will hit your prints in no time!!

yes,you would have to adjust your sensor...

take a look the docs tha gwc2795 has built:

Google Drive for P802M
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davidmilunic
Re: P802M Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread
November 02, 2016 10:40AM
It might be helpful to slightly loosen most of the nuts and bolts and allow the entire printer to "relax".
Then tighten the nuts and bolts the way you do on a car tire. Keep checking the motion of the print head while you tighten. The printer should sit flat on the table and the print head move freely.

Afterwards, you should download and print a new part to fix that worn down threaded rod hole...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/02/2016 10:41AM by davidmilunic.
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