Autobed Leveling Problems

I'm using the 9 point autobed leveling on my folgertech I3, and had it working perfectly prior to upgrading the hotend to a E3DV6 and aluminum spacers instead of the metal springs on the heated bed.

Now, the corners are lower than the middle of the bed.
When I print, the hotend isn't touching the glass plate, so there is no adhesion and the prints curl up etc. It's awful.

Why isn't the autobed leveling software doing it's job? The Hotend doesn't go up or down during it's printing to accommodate for the unlevel bed. It's clearly enabled, and to be honest, I didn't change any of the settings of my working system with the folgertech hotend.

I don't remember but I think I had this issue a couple years back, and had to completely delete the marlin software I was using, and redownload new software and reprogram the entire thing.
Is this possible? Or what can I do to sort this all out?

Bump

Hi!

I also have a FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi model) and have been very happy with its performance. Please reply with your configuration.h file (or paste the text inside a code box (fifth button from the right on the toolbar above your reply message...) and I'll take a look.

A couple bits of wisdom regarding eliminating the heated bed springs:

- If you're not using a VERY rigid Y-carriage, the glass and carriage will flex together, and will change its topography during heating, and while printing. (I'll explain more if needed...)
- You lose the ability to fine tune the geometry/level-ness of the printing surface.
- You lose the relief that the springs provide if your printer decides to lower the nozzle into the glass.

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-David

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Check out my FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi) at MindRealm.net

- If you're not using a VERY rigid Y-carriage, the glass and carriage will flex together, and will change its topography during heating, and while printing. I'm using a 1/4" aluminum bed
- You lose the ability to fine tune the geometry/level-ness of the printing surface. Isn't that the point of having an autobed leveling system?

Quote
Now, the corners are lower than the middle of the bed.
When I print, the hotend isn't touching the glass plate, so there is no adhesion and the prints curl up etc.

So, your Y-axis components are (from the top down):

> Glass
> Heated Bed
> Aluminum Spacers
> Aluminum Y-Carriage

Right?

Quote
Isn't that the point of having an autobed leveling system?

Sort of...

You need to have the Y-axis reasonably 'flat' in relation to the other axes. The ABL is meant to measure and compensate for slight differences in the geometry and creates a virtual plane in the software that is flat. During printing, the Z-axis will make adjustments during the motion of the X and Y axes. If not, then either the plane was already completely flat (very unlikely) or the ABL results are not saved to the controller.

---

-David

Find me online at:
Thingiverse
Instructables.com
LinkedIn
Facebook

Check out my FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi) at MindRealm.net

Thanks. I ended up going back to the springs, and have nailed my first layer again. Got a bunch of problems left to deal with with this E3DV6...but so far, I'm not convinced it's better in any way to the hot end the Folgertech shipped with.

Quote
MindRealm

Quote
Now, the corners are lower than the middle of the bed.
When I print, the hotend isn't touching the glass plate, so there is no adhesion and the prints curl up etc.

So, your Y-axis components are (from the top down):

> Glass
> Heated Bed
> Aluminum Spacers
> Aluminum Y-Carriage

Right?

Quote
Isn't that the point of having an autobed leveling system?

Sort of...

You need to have the Y-axis reasonably 'flat' in relation to the other axes. The ABL is meant to measure and compensate for slight differences in the geometry and creates a virtual plane in the software that is flat. During printing, the Z-axis will make adjustments during the motion of the X and Y axes. If not, then either the plane was already completely flat (very unlikely) or the ABL results are not saved to the controller.

I have been using the Mk7 hot end that shipped with my FolgerTech i3 for over a year now. I have insulated the hot end block well and replaced the original extruder with one that I redesigned and printed myself. I'm even using the original 0.3mm nozzle, printing very reliably at 0.15mm layer height. I do have a couple E3D and Mk7 parts that I intend on designing around, but I'm happy with what I have.

---

-David

Find me online at:
Thingiverse
Instructables.com
LinkedIn
Facebook

Check out my FolgerTech Prusa i3 (plexi) at MindRealm.net