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Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice

Posted by brs1701d 
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 04, 2016 08:27PM
Hy Guys , Finally solved the problem with my printer by justing leveling with a manual leveler but i still have a problem... my prusa is doing too mutch noise.... is this a normal problem ?
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 05, 2016 02:44AM
Quote
Lucas Azevedo
Hy Guys , Finally solved the problem with my printer by justing leveling with a manual leveler but i still have a problem... my prusa is doing too mutch noise.... is this a normal problem ?

It's whether or not the noise is normal, these machines aren't that quiet.

How about visiting youtube and listen to some of the printers running? This will give you an idea if what you are hearing is normal or not.
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 05, 2016 11:12AM
Quote
brs1701d
Quote
Lucas Azevedo
Hy Guys , Finally solved the problem with my printer by justing leveling with a manual leveler but i still have a problem... my prusa is doing too mutch noise.... is this a normal problem ?

It's whether or not the noise is normal, these machines aren't that quiet.

How about visiting youtube and listen to some of the printers running? This will give you an idea if what you are hearing is normal or not.


here is my video of my print .... Sorry for the recording ...


Video
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 05, 2016 02:39PM
My i3 seems to sing a little tune when it is printing away.. Thought it might be by design. You know, the signing stepper motors.. YouTube link - (32,000 of them)
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=stepper+motor+music

The Star Wars Imperial March, cool.
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 05, 2016 02:44PM
Quote
Lucas Azevedo
Quote
brs1701d
Quote
Lucas Azevedo
Hy Guys , Finally solved the problem with my printer by justing leveling with a manual leveler but i still have a problem... my prusa is doing too mutch noise.... is this a normal problem ?

It's whether or not the noise is normal, these machines aren't that quiet.

How about visiting youtube and listen to some of the printers running? This will give you an idea if what you are hearing is normal or not.


here is my video of my print .... Sorry for the recording ...


Video

Sounds like its only on the x-axis moves. It's hard to tell, but sound like there may be something hitting the teeth of the belt.
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 05, 2016 05:46PM
Yes is just the x axis but i don't know why is this occurs..... One more thing does anyone applied here the proximity sensor? Can you guys show some print from this printer... Mines aren't soo well
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 06, 2016 12:18AM
Quote
Lucas Azevedo
Yes is just the x axis but i don't know why is this occurs..... One more thing does anyone applied here the proximity sensor? Can you guys show some print from this printer... Mines aren't soo well

The one I got had no mention of a proximity sensor. I assume you mean something for auto-leveling the bed. As I said, that wasn't included in my kit. I just set the z-axis stop to the near left corner, then manually adjust the four corners until I get a sheet of standard printer paper to just fit between the nozzle and bed.

I've made a few changes (added trapezoidal leadscrews to the z-axis, DRV8825 board for extruder, print fan redirector ([www.thingiverse.com], and some others I can't remember) and it makes some pretty good prints:


Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 06, 2016 07:38AM
IMHO but as an engineer:- I would put the brass threaded inserts on the Z screws at the top of X carriage. If they are on the bottom then they are very close to the motor coupling which is constrained in position so you pick up any eccentricity from the couplings and start fighting with the plane guide rods. When they are on top they are further from the coupling so the threaded rod can move a bit more and allow the plane rod to guide the carriage.
Im not saying you will have issues but it could lead to:-
printed carriage failures due to the stress of the guide rod and screw fighting.
Ripples in prints at lower layers.
In extreme cases missed steps at low layers.
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 06, 2016 03:00PM
Quote
hoxsiew
Quote
Lucas Azevedo
Yes is just the x axis but i don't know why is this occurs..... One more thing does anyone applied here the proximity sensor? Can you guys show some print from this printer... Mines aren't soo well

The one I got had no mention of a proximity sensor. I assume you mean something for auto-leveling the bed. As I said, that wasn't included in my kit. I just set the z-axis stop to the near left corner, then manually adjust the four corners until I get a sheet of standard printer paper to just fit between the nozzle and bed.

I've made a few changes (added trapezoidal leadscrews to the z-axis, DRV8825 board for extruder, print fan redirector ([www.thingiverse.com], and some others I can't remember) and it makes some pretty good prints:


Is this pla or abs?
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 06, 2016 03:04PM
Quote
MCcarman
IMHO but as an engineer:- I would put the brass threaded inserts on the Z screws at the top of X carriage. If they are on the bottom then they are very close to the motor coupling which is constrained in position so you pick up any eccentricity from the couplings and start fighting with the plane guide rods. When they are on top they are further from the coupling so the threaded rod can move a bit more and allow the plane rod to guide the carriage.
Im not saying you will have issues but it could lead to:-
printed carriage failures due to the stress of the guide rod and screw fighting.
Ripples in prints at lower layers.
In extreme cases missed steps at low layers.

I'm not English and I will like to understand your point... Try to explain with basics words please (sorry)
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 09, 2016 11:55AM
Quote
Lucas Azevedo
Quote
hoxsiew


Is this pla or abs?

PLA.
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 09, 2016 01:53PM
Quote
Lucas Azevedo
Quote
MCcarman
IMHO but as an engineer:- I would put the brass threaded inserts on the Z screws at the top of X carriage. If they are on the bottom then they are very close to the motor coupling which is constrained in position so you pick up any eccentricity from the couplings and start fighting with the plane guide rods. When they are on top they are further from the coupling so the threaded rod can move a bit more and allow the plane rod to guide the carriage.
Im not saying you will have issues but it could lead to:-
printed carriage failures due to the stress of the guide rod and screw fighting.
Ripples in prints at lower layers.
In extreme cases missed steps at low layers.

I'm not English and I will like to understand your point... Try to explain with basics words please (sorry)

MCcarnan is saying that the brass parts at the top right of your photo should be on top of the yellow parts, not under them.
It's where I put them on my almost identical printer.

Look closely at this pic:-


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/09/2016 01:57PM by WonkoTheSane.
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 11, 2016 05:18PM



But he have too below ... Guys i installed one proximity sensor but the printer isn't making the grid move just the normal mechanical stops ... can anyone help me ?



//===========================================================================
//=============================Mechanical Settings===========================
//===========================================================================

// Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics
// #define COREXY

// coarse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
  // fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
  // #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

#ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

// Disable max endstops for compatibility with endstop checking routine
#if defined(COREXY) && !defined(DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS)
  #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
#endif

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true //disable only inactive extruders and keep active extruder enabled

#define INVERT_X_DIR false    // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true    // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false     // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false    // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true  // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 200
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 165
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_LENGTH (X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS)
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH (Y_MAX_POS - Y_MIN_POS)
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH (Z_MAX_POS - Z_MIN_POS)
//============================= Bed Auto Leveling ===========================

#define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING // Delete the comment to enable (remove // at the start of the line)
#define Z_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST  // If not commented out, Z-Probe Repeatability test will be included if Auto Bed Leveling is Enabled.

#ifdef ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING

// There are 2 different ways to pick the X and Y locations to probe:

//  - "grid" mode
//    Probe every point in a rectangular grid
//    You must specify the rectangle, and the density of sample points
//    This mode is preferred because there are more measurements.
//    It used to be called ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING but "grid" is more descriptive

//  - "3-point" mode
//    Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't colinear)
//    You must specify the X & Y coordinates of all 3 points

  #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID
  // with AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID, the bed is sampled in a
  // AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTSxAUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS grid
  // and least squares solution is calculated
  // Note: this feature occupies 10'206 byte
  #ifdef AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID

    // set the rectangle in which to probe
    #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
    #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200
    #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 200
    #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20

     // set the number of grid points per dimension
     // I wouldn't see a reason to go above 3 (=9 probing points on the bed)
    #define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 3


 // #else  // not AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID
    // with no grid, just probe 3 arbitrary points.  A simple cross-product
    // is used to esimate the plane of the print bed

 //    #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_X 24
  //    #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 164
   //   #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_X 24
    //  #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 24
     // #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_X 164
      //#define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 24 

  #endif // AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID


  // these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)
  // X and Y offsets must be integers
  #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
  #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
  #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 30

 #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_HOMING 10       // (in mm) Raise Z before homing (G28) for Probe Clearance.
                                        // Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case

  #define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 6000         // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min

  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 10    //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.
  #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 10  //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points

  //#define Z_PROBE_SLED // turn on if you have a z-probe mounted on a sled like those designed by Charles Bell
  //#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5 // the extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.

  //If defined, the Probe servo will be turned on only during movement and then turned off to avoid jerk
  //The value is the delay to turn the servo off after powered on - depends on the servo speed; 300ms is good value, but you can try lower it.
  // You MUST HAVE the SERVO_ENDSTOPS defined to use here a value higher than zero otherwise your code will not compile.

//  #define PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY 300


//If you have enabled the Bed Auto Leveling and are using the same Z Probe for Z Homing,
//it is highly recommended you let this Z_SAFE_HOMING enabled!!!

  #define Z_SAFE_HOMING   // This feature is meant to avoid Z homing with probe outside the bed area.
                          // When defined, it will:
                          // - Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still enabled
                          // - If stepper drivers timeout, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing
                          // - Position the probe in a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axis (G28)
                          // - Block Z homing only when the probe is outside bed area.

  #ifdef Z_SAFE_HOMING

    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)
    #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_MAX_LENGTH/2)    // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)

  #endif
/*
  #ifdef AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID	// Check if Probe_Offset * Grid Points is greater than Probing Range
    #if X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER < 0
      #if (-(X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER * AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS) >= (RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION - LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION))
	     #error "The X axis probing range is not enough to fit all the points defined in AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS"
	  #endif
	#else
      #if ((X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER * AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS) >= (RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION - LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION))
	     #error "The X axis probing range is not enough to fit all the points defined in AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS"
	  #endif
	#endif
    #if Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER < 0
      #if (-(Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER * AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS) >= (BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION - FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION))
	     #error "The Y axis probing range is not enough to fit all the points defined in AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS"
	  #endif
	#else
      #if ((Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER * AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS) >= (BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION - FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION))
	     #error "The Y axis probing range is not enough to fit all the points defined in AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS"
	  #endif
	#endif

	
  #endif */
  
#endif // ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING


// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the Cartesian print volume.
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 402 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0}  // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings

// default settings
// delta speeds must be the same on xyz
//#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80.0, 80.0, 2560, 95}
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80, 80, 2560, 96}
//#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {78.74, 78.74, 2560, 800}

#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {400, 400, 3, 45}    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {5000,5000,50,5000}    // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION        1000    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  1000   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 0.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {23.0, 0.00}  // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                20.0    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4     // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5.0    // (mm/sec)

//===========================================================================
//=============================Additional Features===========================
//=================================

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/11/2016 05:44PM by Lucas Azevedo.
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
May 29, 2016 08:12AM
got one of these.. can be a good kit but requires a bit of knowledge, time and effort... really recomend this print as 1 job [www.thingiverse.com] then slowly update / upgrade.. smiling smiley

Quote
hoxsiew
Quote
Lucas Azevedo
Yes is just the x axis but i don't know why is this occurs..... One more thing does anyone applied here the proximity sensor? Can you guys show some print from this printer... Mines aren't soo well

The one I got had no mention of a proximity sensor. I assume you mean something for auto-leveling the bed. As I said, that wasn't included in my kit. I just set the z-axis stop to the near left corner, then manually adjust the four corners until I get a sheet of standard printer paper to just fit between the nozzle and bed.

I've made a few changes (added trapezoidal leadscrews to the z-axis, DRV8825 board for extruder, print fan redirector ([www.thingiverse.com], and some others I can't remember) and it makes some pretty good prints:


Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
November 04, 2016 03:36PM
Quote
hoxsiew
I've made a few changes (added trapezoidal leadscrews to the z-axis, DRV8825 board for extruder

Sorry to necro post, but i'm also interested in replacing the stock z-axis threaded rods, and adding a DRV8825 too; two things if I may?:
* For the Z rods, could you possibly provide links to where you got yours, or an idea of what specification to look for?
* For replacing these two items, are there any settings that need changing? Or are they straight drop-in replacements?

Thanks in advance for any tips!
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
November 05, 2016 12:11AM
Quote
dalgibbard
Quote
hoxsiew
I've made a few changes (added trapezoidal leadscrews to the z-axis, DRV8825 board for extruder

Sorry to necro post, but i'm also interested in replacing the stock z-axis threaded rods, and adding a DRV8825 too; two things if I may?:
* For the Z rods, could you possibly provide links to where you got yours, or an idea of what specification to look for?
* For replacing these two items, are there any settings that need changing? Or are they straight drop-in replacements?

Thanks in advance for any tips!

I got the rods from zyltech's ebay store:

[stores.ebay.com]

As far as modifications, you can either select jumpers on the DRV8825's for 16 microsteps, or use 32 microsteps and then you have use half the steps per unit for the appropriate axis in the firmware configuration. Also, if you replace your threaded rods with an acme or trapezoidal lead screw of a different pitch, you'll need to recalculate the steps-per-unit for the Z-axis.

You can calculate all the changes you'll need here:

[prusaprinters.org]
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
November 05, 2016 03:32AM
Awesome, thanks very much!
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
January 08, 2017 04:44PM
I'm hoping you can help. It sounds like you managed to get your board from this printer to respond to your computer. Do you have the GT2560? I've tried several different versions of the Arduino software and several different Cura versions and I can't get either to recognize the board. I have lead screws and would like to do a firmware update.

Thank you for your time,

Steve
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
January 08, 2017 05:46PM
I've not had any issues connecting it to my PC personally. Ensure you have the arduino software installed (which includes drivers), reboot, and connect the board again, but to a port you haven't tried yet perhaps.
Does anything show up in device manager at all when connecting it? Are you powering the printer via the printer's power supply at the time? Try with/without. Could be insufficient USB power, USB2 vs 3, ground loop from the printer power supply... Or just a broken board sad smiley
Not sure if there's an FTDI or ISP header on the board so you can flash it that way I maybe?
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
January 08, 2017 09:41PM
The only thing I can think of is that the default baud rate is set to 250000 which is an odd-ball baud rate, but I didn't think windows drivers had a problem with it. I use Linux and I had to set marlin firmware with a modified 115200 baud rate. I know that the knock-off boards that are probably used for these machines are likely to have counterfeit FTDI usb<->serial chips and that the latest drivers from Windows will not work with these. Linux uses class compliant drivers so it doesn't care.
Re: Chinese eBay 3D printer - Story so far, and request for advice
January 15, 2017 02:49PM
Hej,

I had an issue where I could print fine to the printer, but there was no way to get firmware up there, or get it recognised by Arduino. Ended up burning a bootloader to the GT2560 board through the SD/LCD pins:
PINOUT

I used an arduino I had lying around with these sketches: burn automatic bootloader

After that, no problem getting Marlin 1.10 RC8 on there grinning smiley, was a bit or trouble setting up the Configuration.h (man that thing is long) but it's running quite nicely now smiling smiley

For me it all started, because I couldn't save my steps for the extruder to EEPROM - woulnd't store, so had to upgrade firmware..

Hope it helps!
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