Questions before I begin building

Hi all, new member here. My name is Adam. I have some experience with commercial 3D printers, and I've got it in my head to build a RepRap from scratch. I like the elegant design of the Prusa_i3, so I'll use that.

I have access to a maker space equipped with 3D printers, laser engravers, machine shop and electronics lab. From other projects, I have a large slab of 1/4 inch acrylic and several rolls of PLA. I do have a couple questions before I get started:

Is PLA sufficient for the printed parts of this printer (besides possibly the hot end carriage)?

Is acrylic safe and stable enough for that plate underneath the print surface?

Does anyone have any recommended sources for electrical components such as control boards, power supplies and steppers? Any to avoid?

I'm planning on using an E3D Lite hot end with bowden extruder. I like the drop-in compatibility with the E3Dv6 should I choose to upgrade later. Is there anything I should know?

Is there a reliable, high-quality source for the rods and hardware?

If it is appropriate, I will update this thread with my build progress. Right now, I've just downloaded all the .stl files.

This should be fun. And frustrating.

EDIT: Also, where can I get a .dxf file of the i3's plates? The wiki page has a .png preview, but I can't find the cad file.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/09/2016 12:07AM by av8r1.

''Elegant" design with threaded rods and nuts? You'd be better off buying a kit and then upgrading what you don't like after you get it running. A Folger Tech 2020 is much more 'elegant' than the threaded rod version and their Cloner will get you a look alike of a very popular 3D printer. You'll probably find out a kit is a cheaper way to go when you factor in your search times, shipping costs of each individual part, and the wait time. Just a suggestion. Do what you like but......................

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Hi tjnamtiw!

I'll grant you a RepRap isn't exactly an iMac in terms of sleek, but I meant elegant in an engineering sense. I like the fact that it's not encased in a cube; that the front of the machine is open so you can easily clean the bed/remove parts etc. The machine I have now is a big cuboid gantry setup that seems to be in the way no matter what you do. I actually like the look of the threaded rod version better than the openbeam, but to each his own. And looking like a MakerBot isn't a major selling point for me.

I really like the idea of building my own from scratch. It seems to be in line with the RepRap spirit. That said, it probably is more realistic to buy a kit. As you say, i don't think I could source each individual part for $280. I'll look into Folger and see if I feel comfortable pulling the trigger.

is there anyone who sells a "complete minus 3D printed" parts? That would be ideal.

I have the folger 2020 kit and I like it but I have replaced almost all the stock parts not necessarily because they were bad but just for messing around sake. If you want to build from scratch have you looked at the openbuilds V-slot stuff? I would recommend that over the smooth rods and linear bearings because it is much quieter and easier to get everything aligned. Since you have the acrylic and a way to cut it check out this design from Sonny Lowe.

[openbuilds.org]

If you want to switch to the all metal hotend from the lite6 you just need to get the new cool block and heat break.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

That's an intriguing design. Once again I like the open bed. I've bookmarked that site and I'll keep an eye on it.

I'm still going to build a Prusa, though, at least for my first printer. Sticking with the tried and true designs that have been well established in the community has served me well thus far. I use a popular distro of Linux, I use brand name Raspberry Pis and Arduinos, etc. There's simply more advice out there that way.

What hot end does the Folger kit come with? I can't find any information on it.

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av8r1
That's an intriguing design. Once again I like the open bed. I've bookmarked that site and I'll keep an eye on it.

I'm still going to build a Prusa, though, at least for my first printer. Sticking with the tried and true designs that have been well established in the community has served me well thus far. I use a popular distro of Linux, I use brand name Raspberry Pis and Arduinos, etc. There's simply more advice out there that way.

What hot end does the Folger kit come with? I can't find any information on it.

I selected the Prusa too. It is not the best set up as the bed moves in Y, just a trade off for simplicity. With a few improvements, it can be done to work quite fine, provided you don't buy a pile of junk presented as a kit !
I selected an Al frame, NOT ACRYLIC ! Steel is fine too.
I bought a Geetech Al I3 and managed to make it a lot better; I print PLA with a good quality at 120mm/s and average results at 180mm/s although at that speed, the limit is the hot end and cooling of the parts.
Others could be improved but I can't comment.
Just have a look at the various issues people are having noting that most are due to users. Yet some vendors are offering products I would like to strangle their "designer".

I've been wondering about the acrylic frame. I have experience working with acrylic as an aircraft mechanic, and i know for sure it's not a structural material. I saw a video on youtube where a guy had extended some of the lower threaded rods, made a couple brackets, and made triangular braces for his to improve rigidity.

I must have printed for seven hours today on my makerspace's Fusion3. I'm getting some great experience optimizing a print.

The hotend / extruder the Folger comes with a the cheap chinese knockoff MK8/9 type. It has a ptfe liner and a direct drive extruder. If you want to build from scratch get the lite6 and the titan extruder if you want a kit the cheap kits all seem to have the same hotend / extruder.

I used the Folger one until the liner in the ptfe liner was shot then I used the Folger extruder with the lite6 for a while before buying a wades geared extruder on ebay. Used that extruder for a while then I printed my own wades. I have been using that extruder for a while but I ordered a titan extruder and haven't installed it yet.

I bought the kit because I didn't know anything and wanted to have a good chance at getting something that would work. If you want the best bang for your buck it's going to be better to build your own.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

I just pulled the trigger on a Folger 2020. It should be here in a week or two. Got the display/SD card reader option too. I

I'll see what I can do with the stock hot end until I have a budget for some mods, then I'll stick an E3Dv6 hot end on it. That's where I eventually want to go, so why take the intermediate step?

In the meantime, I'll familiarize myself with the manuals, downloading a slicer or two (I've been using Simplify3D at my maker space, but I'm not shelling out $150 for a personal copy), and otherwise getting ready.

Now go start reading through the mega thread

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

msaeger, do you mean the 160 page "official support thread" or is there one specific to using an Arduino Mega as a controller?

160 pages of miseries, indeed.
Seriously, all these kits will be able to spit plastic blobs, only a few will be able to work properly after some tweaking and become quite acceptable with a few improvements.
So all depends on the ability, knowledge, experience of the tinkerer.
I found the older threads and posts better as the people who started this were (and still are) usually very competent.

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av8r1
msaeger, do you mean the 160 page "official support thread" or is there one specific to using an Arduino Mega as a controller?

Yeah I mean the 160 page thread. There is good info in there but you have to dig.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

160 pages of miseries.

I would anticipate a lot of issues out of a very cheap printer marketed to beginners and whoever else wants to pay $200 for a device that usually costs $2000.

My ability, knowledge and experience: I'm an aircraft mechanic trained and experienced with rigging flight and engine controls, an Arduino and Raspberry Pi hobbyist with several robotics projects under my belt, and dozens of hours of experience using a 3D printer. I also have a few friends who work for printer manufacturers.

I expect to ditch the stock hot end for an E3D unit, since I know they work. And I'll add one or two part cooler fans, per this video: [youtu.be]

Or, are there parts or design problems? If so, I'll cancel the order here and now.

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av8r1
160 pages of miseries.

I would anticipate a lot of issues out of a very cheap printer marketed to beginners and whoever else wants to pay $200 for a device that usually costs $2000.

My ability, knowledge and experience: I'm an aircraft mechanic trained and experienced with rigging flight and engine controls, an Arduino and Raspberry Pi hobbyist with several robotics projects under my belt, and dozens of hours of experience using a 3D printer. I also have a few friends who work for printer manufacturers.

I expect to ditch the stock hot end for an E3D unit, since I know they work. And I'll add one or two part cooler fans, per this video: [youtu.be]

Or, are there parts or design problems? If so, I'll cancel the order here and now.

You're selling the product very short! It's a damn good printer that many people, if they have the knowledge to build and program it and read how to calibrate it, have found it can rival the quality coming out of those $2000 printers you mention. Even the stock extruder/hotend can produce very nice parts if you know what you are doing. Unfortunately, there are many who buy the kit with zero mechanical and electrical aptitude and expect it to print right out of the box. I think you will be pleasantly surprised given your background. Just spend the time to line things up properly, especially the bearings.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

I do find that things are popular for a reason, and sometimes that reason is price.

Watching that video series by Tech2C I linked to, a Prusa seems to be a capable basic printer with plenty of room for improvement. One thing he did was install some diagonal bracing. I'm tempted to do something similar to mine.

3D printing is a skill. I've heard it said that a 3D printer is not a device, it's a person. It's not an Epson where you mash the button and it spits out perfect. Maybe we'll get there, but that's not where we're at.

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av8r1
160 pages of miseries.

I would anticipate a lot of issues out of a very cheap printer marketed to beginners and whoever else wants to pay $200 for a device that usually costs $2000.

My ability, knowledge and experience: I'm an aircraft mechanic trained and experienced with rigging flight and engine controls, an Arduino and Raspberry Pi hobbyist with several robotics projects under my belt, and dozens of hours of experience using a 3D printer. I also have a few friends who work for printer manufacturers.

I expect to ditch the stock hot end for an E3D unit, since I know they work. And I'll add one or two part cooler fans, per this video: [youtu.be]

Or, are there parts or design problems? If so, I'll cancel the order here and now.

OK, you have the ability, then I think you better go with an other vendor. I personally went for the Geetech Al Prusa I3 that after a few minor change could print fine but after some serious improvement I can print good PLA parts at 120mm/s and "proto" at 180mm/s. The stock hot end and cooling set the limits, the only thing I didn't modify yet.

See here: Geetech Al I3

PLA parts are quite sturdy, I made some to better the printer. They can't stand even moderate heat. ABS is better but smells bad and vapors are toxic. So beware.

Speaking of E3D, which I don't have, beware that some chinese copies are real junks from what I read here.

PS: I had some heated debate with a couple of people I consider quack engineers. Anyone can be wrong and make mistakes but to a certain level.
There are a few very competent guys around but even more, self proclaimed genius not unlike the "free energy" crowd one can see on the Internet.

Edited 5 time(s). Last edit at 05/16/2016 03:29AM by MKSA.

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av8r1
I do find that things are popular for a reason, and sometimes that reason is price.

Watching that video series by Tech2C I linked to, a Prusa seems to be a capable basic printer with plenty of room for improvement. One thing he did was install some diagonal bracing. I'm tempted to do something similar to mine.

3D printing is a skill. I've heard it said that a 3D printer is not a device, it's a person. It's not an Epson where you mash the button and it spits out perfect. Maybe we'll get there, but that's not where we're at.

Indeed, the Prusa is neat, not the best (I prefer a setu p where the bed only moves in Z) but a good compromise that makes part easy and cheap. I put braces, it is one of the first thing to do. Two Al profile, brackets and 5cm of M6 threaded rods to bring the vertical "plate", vertical !
You have to install the printer on something flat and sturdy. I use a 40mm thick 50cm by 50cm kitchen table top. No need for a granite slab

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MKSA

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av8r1
I do find that things are popular for a reason, and sometimes that reason is price.

Watching that video series by Tech2C I linked to, a Prusa seems to be a capable basic printer with plenty of room for improvement. One thing he did was install some diagonal bracing. I'm tempted to do something similar to mine.

3D printing is a skill. I've heard it said that a 3D printer is not a device, it's a person. It's not an Epson where you mash the button and it spits out perfect. Maybe we'll get there, but that's not where we're at.

Indeed, the Prusa is neat, not the best (I prefer a setu p where the bed only moves in Z) but a good compromise that makes part easy and cheap. I put braces, it is one of the first thing to do. Two Al profile, brackets and 5cm of M6 threaded rods to bring the vertical "plate", vertical !
You have to install the printer on something flat and sturdy. I use a 40mm thick 50cm by 50cm kitchen table top. No need for a granite slab

If you go to the top of the page, you'll see that he 'pulled the trigger' on a Folger Tech 2020. This is a very sturdy frame design with no need for extra braces. At least mine is that way. There is no wobble anywhere, perhaps because of the power supply being an integral part of the frame. Setting your speeds high doesn't necessarily mean you ever get that high. Most of the time you're in the acceleration phase according to 'Tom".

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

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tjnamtiw

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MKSA

Quote
av8r1
I do find that things are popular for a reason, and sometimes that reason is price.

Watching that video series by Tech2C I linked to, a Prusa seems to be a capable basic printer with plenty of room for improvement. One thing he did was install some diagonal bracing. I'm tempted to do something similar to mine.

3D printing is a skill. I've heard it said that a 3D printer is not a device, it's a person. It's not an Epson where you mash the button and it spits out perfect. Maybe we'll get there, but that's not where we're at.

Indeed, the Prusa is neat, not the best (I prefer a setu p where the bed only moves in Z) but a good compromise that makes part easy and cheap. I put braces, it is one of the first thing to do. Two Al profile, brackets and 5cm of M6 threaded rods to bring the vertical "plate", vertical !
You have to install the printer on something flat and sturdy. I use a 40mm thick 50cm by 50cm kitchen table top. No need for a granite slab

If you go to the top of the page, you'll see that he 'pulled the trigger' on a Folger Tech 2020. This is a very sturdy frame design with no need for extra braces. At least mine is that way. There is no wobble anywhere, perhaps because of the power supply being an integral part of the frame. Setting your speeds high doesn't necessarily mean you ever get that high. Most of the time you're in the acceleration phase according to 'Tom".

The Folger Tech 2020 si NOT sturdy. It will require braces too.
Any way, the same kind of modifications I made for my Geetech will be a great benefit. The way the Z motors are mounted is worse than the Geetech the M5 threaded rods (M5 ? totally INSANE) are hanging from the motor with ELASTIC coupling !!!
True, the Folger can be modified the same way and made a lot better. The small plus is that the Folger is made with extruded profile and the company is located in the US although it is obvious the parts used are mainly Chinese too.
So he didn't lose his money.

As for the speed, don't worry, it really prints faster and my motors run cool. I posted video BTW.
To summarize, the only risk for av8r1 is a heart attack when he will see the poor bearings, rods, bolts, clamps etc... compared to what is used in an airplane

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/16/2016 12:30PM by MKSA.

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MKSA

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tjnamtiw

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MKSA

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av8r1
I do find that things are popular for a reason, and sometimes that reason is price.

Watching that video series by Tech2C I linked to, a Prusa seems to be a capable basic printer with plenty of room for improvement. One thing he did was install some diagonal bracing. I'm tempted to do something similar to mine.

3D printing is a skill. I've heard it said that a 3D printer is not a device, it's a person. It's not an Epson where you mash the button and it spits out perfect. Maybe we'll get there, but that's not where we're at.

Indeed, the Prusa is neat, not the best (I prefer a setu p where the bed only moves in Z) but a good compromise that makes part easy and cheap. I put braces, it is one of the first thing to do. Two Al profile, brackets and 5cm of M6 threaded rods to bring the vertical "plate", vertical !
You have to install the printer on something flat and sturdy. I use a 40mm thick 50cm by 50cm kitchen table top. No need for a granite slab

If you go to the top of the page, you'll see that he 'pulled the trigger' on a Folger Tech 2020. This is a very sturdy frame design with no need for extra braces. At least mine is that way. There is no wobble anywhere, perhaps because of the power supply being an integral part of the frame. Setting your speeds high doesn't necessarily mean you ever get that high. Most of the time you're in the acceleration phase according to 'Tom".

The Folger Tech 2020 si NOT sturdy. It will require braces too.
Any way, the same kind of modifications I made for my Geetech will be a great benefit. The way the Z motors are mounted is worse than the Geetech the M5 threaded rods (M5 ? totally INSANE) are hanging from the motor with ELASTIC coupling !!!
True, the Folger can be modified the same way and made a lot better. The small plus is that the Folger is made with extruded profile and the company is located in the US although it is obvious the parts used are mainly Chinese too.
So he didn't lose his money.

As for the speed, don't worry, it really prints faster and my motors run cool. I posted video BTW.
To summarize, the only risk for av8r1 is a heart attack when he will see the poor bearings, rods, bolts, clamps etc... compared to what is used in an airplane

I am curious as to how/why you think the 2020 needs braces since you have a GEEHAW, not a 2020. Sure you can add braces to anything but is it necessary to make a good print? NO!
As for the hanging rod on the elastic coupling, what difference does it make whether the X carriage is putting the coupling in tension or compression (motor on the bottom)? Either way there is possible flex UNLESS you do the upgrade that most people do early on and print extensions for the Z motors which also incorporates a bearing that the coupling sits on and eliminates any chance of springiness. True that the 5 mm rod leaves a lot to be desired BUT those that are using 4 flight lead screws have an 8 mm pitch, which strains the Z motors and reduces the precision over the lowly 5 mm rods because each step moves it a much greater distance.
AV8R1 isn't buying a Cessna Skyhawk, he's buying a starter 3D printer that won't require an Aviation Maintenance Mechanic. AND if he takes his time and aligns things, he'll be making good parts without modifying anything. It's really funny to read a GEEHAW owner putting down another brand for bearings, rods and clamps.. Thanks for the chuckle.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

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tjnamtiw

I am curious as to how/why you think the 2020 needs braces since you have a GEEHAW, not a 2020. Sure you can add braces to anything but is it necessary to make a good print? NO!
As for the hanging rod on the elastic coupling, what difference does it make whether the X carriage is putting the coupling in tension or compression (motor on the bottom)? Either way there is possible flex UNLESS you do the upgrade that most people do early on and print extensions for the Z motors which also incorporates a bearing that the coupling sits on and eliminates any chance of springiness. True that the 5 mm rod leaves a lot to be desired BUT those that are using 4 flight lead screws have an 8 mm pitch, which strains the Z motors and reduces the precision over the lowly 5 mm rods because each step moves it a much greater distance.
AV8R1 isn't buying a Cessna Skyhawk, he's buying a starter 3D printer that won't require an Aviation Maintenance Mechanic. AND if he takes his time and aligns things, he'll be making good parts without modifying anything. It's really funny to read a GEEHAW owner putting down another brand for bearings, rods and clamps.. Thanks for the chuckle.

If you don't understand, just learn about mechanic and get real experience with real machines. Your ignorance shows in your posts !

The parts used in the Geetech are indeed the same so so quality but I did replace the worst one and made a good use of what is left.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/17/2016 12:56AM by MKSA.

Neither the vanilla Prusa nor the 2020 modification are going to be particularly rigid. You want rigid, you need that triangular frame Mendel. I suspect both models can profit from some simple diagonal braces, either forward or back. Should be easy to fabricate for the 2020 model. I've seen it done on a vanilla Prusa.

As for the motors being mounted up top for the Z axis--It probably doesn't make much of a difference to the motor drive. Where it will make a difference is the CG of the tower, there's more mass at the end of an arm, so vibrations will tend to be lower frequency and higher amplitude. More reason for some diagonal bracing. I guess the chassis of the power supply provides that on the right side.

I spent much of today fighting with the Fusion3, or more accuately, Simplify3D's ideas of what my part should look like. In the words of AvE, "It just doesn't end."

Three things about the Folger 2020:

1. Don't buy this kit from them, buy their normal Prusa i3 kit. 2020 extrusion is okay, but the hardware that comes with it is total wank. I see what they were trying to accomplish with those T-nuts, and it would have been cool if it had actually worked. Thing is, they don't. So I guess I'll have to re-invent that kind of hardware from scratch, since I obviously can't trust other humans to do it right.

2. I will be rewriting the assembly manual for this printer. As I read and write above the fourth grade level, understand the concept of proofreading, and have basic common sense, I will do a better job than Folger did. The manual from Folger is just embarrassing. It's about as professional as the packet of jellybeans I found in the box. Keep an eye on this thread for documentation written by an adult with proper communication skills.

3. I will reprint all plastic parts on this printer, probably redesigning them from scratch. The bolt holes don't line up with the part they're supposed to be bolted to, and the bearings don't fit. I had to hit one with a hammer to seat it. I've always wondered about using 3D printed parts on a 3D printer, now I know for sure it's a bad idea.

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av8r1
Three things about the Folger 2020:

1. Don't buy this kit from them, buy their normal Prusa i3 kit. 2020 extrusion is okay, but the hardware that comes with it is total wank. I see what they were trying to accomplish with those T-nuts, and it would have been cool if it had actually worked. Thing is, they don't. So I guess I'll have to re-invent that kind of hardware from scratch, since I obviously can't trust other humans to do it right.

2. I will be rewriting the assembly manual for this printer. As I read and write above the fourth grade level, understand the concept of proofreading, and have basic common sense, I will do a better job than Folger did. The manual from Folger is just embarrassing. It's about as professional as the packet of jellybeans I found in the box. Keep an eye on this thread for documentation written by an adult with proper communication skills.

3. I will reprint all plastic parts on this printer, probably redesigning them from scratch. The bolt holes don't line up with the part they're supposed to be bolted to, and the bearings don't fit. I had to hit one with a hammer to seat it. I've always wondered about using 3D printed parts on a 3D printer, now I know for sure it's a bad idea.

I'm getting some popcorn and beer and just sit back and watch where this one goes!!!

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

For several parts of the main frame, they say "leave it loose so we can adjust it later." Every single T-nut I left loose turned sideways and fell out of the channel. So effectively, I've built the frame twice.

I'll give Folger this: They've got good layer adhesion. Trying to push one of the linear bearings into the printed mount, I lifted my entire 200 pound weight off the ground, and the part held. As the bearings barely fit into the mounts and the bolt holes are closer together than their mates in the bed plate, I can only assume they failed to compensate for the shrink factor regarding printed ABS.

As for that manual. One step says "Assemble as shown in picture. [insert picture here]" Another one says "Put them together as shown in the picture. Ignore the part on the left, it's not supposed to be there."

D-, see me after class.

Found a possible solution to my hardware gripe on Thingiverse: [www.thingiverse.com] That can't turn in the channel, and would reduce swearing significantly. I'm going to print out about 50 of them and stock up on M4 hardware.

Build session 2: Got the bed heater installed. Went together with no trouble. I like the thumb nuts on the bed corners, the printer I'm used to has normal nuts there. Got the motors installed as well, with some more fussing around with those $@%&! T-nuts.

I would like to take the opportunity to shame whoever came up with the idea for the linear bearing holders used on this printer. The "press fit and then zip tie" design is one of the worst designs I've ever seen. The split-tube used on the carriage ends is better. I'm going to have to redesign those parts. I find myself wondering what kind of crayon the original plans were drawn with. Turns out that making CAD software cheap and easy enough for everyone has a downside.

Also, I'm pretty sure the manual left out a little hardware. The X motor, the one that attaches to the plastic part on the right hand side of the printer is attached by three M3 20mm screws. If you just put the screws in, the screws bottom out in the mounting holes, and the motor slops around on the mount by a good 2mm. The addition of three lock washers solves the problem. The other motors have lock washers, so I'll put some on this one. They are not called for in the "instructions." I'm going to speak directly to Folger on that one.

The part opposite that one--the bit on the left of the X carriage--there's an assembly of two bearings on an M3 screw with a nylock nut. There is a hexagonal recess in the printed part to accept that M3 nylock, but it's too large, and the nut spins in place. It's not critical for the function of the printer for that screw to be tight, but it's just poor design. The recess should either be large enough and round to accept a nut driver, sized appropriately for the nut, or omitted.

When I rewrite the embarrassingly inadequate assembly instructions, I'll be sure to use the phrase "Leave these loose, they'll be adjusted later" a lot less often. Things should be installed just before they'll be finally tightened. For example, why did we install the two Z-motors on the frame, and then assemble the X-carriage?

I'll continue assembly/find some more things to bitch about tomorrow.

Last Build Day: Spoiler alert, she prints.

The instructions are total crap, but the machine works. The first two prints off the bed (calibration cubes) had this interesting wave pattern along the side. Reduced the current to the extruder motor and that fixed that. Similarly adjusted the X motor so it's not so loud/hot. It's printing it's very first non-cube as we speak, a PLA kitty cat from thingiverse. All told, took three days to put together. Still have some minor adjustments to make. The wiring harness is an embarrassing rats nest right now, and the spool holder needs some help, but hey, the $300 pain in the ass is making me a bright red kitty cat right now. How hard can I really complain?

Stick around, I'll have the revised build manual by the end of June.

So you are going to fix the instructions for Folger Tech?