Cura settings

Hi guys
Can any one help me out with some workable settings for Cura. I keep over extruding the quality is crap so I have to stop the print.
Also the print looks nothing like the drawings. I'm using Sketchup to draw and export them as a STL file which I load in to Cura then upload to a SD card ready to print.

[i1253.photobucket.com]

[i1253.photobucket.com]

[i1253.photobucket.com]

[i1253.photobucket.com]

I have attached the Cura files.
Thanks
Adrian

If the flow rate in cura is set at 100% then the over extrusion is to do with the extruder steps/mm set in your firmware.
Best way to check is Mark the filament 50 mm above where it enters the hotend, then heat the hot end to working temp and tell the printer to extrude 50 mm,
the previous mark you made should be just entering the hot end.Adjust the extruders steps/mm to compensate for any error.

Oh.. forgot to give you my settings!

first. opened the fan.
One part hangs in the air. Its probably one of the problem.
the other part is bearly touching the surface.
Im sure this is a problem.
make sure the first layer goes down well!
Nozzle has to kind of squeeze the filament on to the build plate. Without nozzle touching the build plate.
If pla doesn't come out directly when start print. Try adding brim to the print.

Ok. My cura settings.
(using a 0.4mm nozzle diameter)
0.2 mm layerhight.
wall thickness. 1.2mm
Wall line count. 3
top/bottom thickness 1.2mm
infill density. 15%
printing temp. 205c (pla)
Buildplate temp. 55c (pla)
diam 1.75 (filament diameter)
Flow. (100%) adjust this down if you have overflow. and not calibrated extruder)
Retracton enabled
retracktion distance. 6mm
retraction speed. 55mm/s
printspeed. 45mm/s
infill speed. 60 mm/s
wall speed. 40 mm/s
Top/bottom speed. 35mm/s
Print access. 1000mm/s
infill access 1000mm/s
wall access 450 mm/s
topp/bottom access 1000mm/s
Travel access. 4000mm/s
Jerk is 20
wall jerk 10
travel jerk 30
Combining is off
Z hop when retracted is set to on.
Fan speed 100% (pla)
Regular fan speed at 0.4 mm
print sequence all at once.

Hope it helps!

Edit*
to lazy to rewrite. Access should be Acceleration.. (auto spelling)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/05/2017 03:31PM by SatorCodex.

Hi guys
Thank you for the help. massive help.
Thank you
Adrian

I would change that slightly. If you are overextruding doing what was written below might not help because your mark might just go into the extruder where you cant see and measure it. Mark it at 75mm and ask to extrude 50mm. If it is set right you should have 25mm left. This way works for both over/under extrusion.

Quote
obewan
If the flow rate in cura is set at 100% then the over extrusion is to do with the extruder steps/mm set in your firmware.
Best way to check is Mark the filament 50 mm above where it enters the hotend, then heat the hot end to working temp and tell the printer to extrude 50 mm,
the previous mark you made should be just entering the hot end.Adjust the extruders steps/mm to compensate for any error.

In one of your meany other forum posts you were given good information on how to calculate your E steps, It looks like you have not done this. By the sounds of your comments it looks like you have just assembled the printer and expected it to print. If you wanted this you should have brought a plug and play printer and not a DIY kit.

Follow this commissioning guide to help setup your printer [reprap.org] follow each step and dont skip any because you dont understand, do a google or ask questions (I recommend google because almost every beginner question has been answered at least a hundred times).

Copying other peoples settings will not help you learn, (and no two printers are the same even if they are the same model type) by changing settings one at a time you will learn what setting does what on the slicer and this will help you troubleshoot later if you change filament, or buy a new printer.

Thanks guys for all the info.
I don't know the stepper motor steps per revolution or the teeth on the pulleys and have no info on them.
I will try to commission the printer.
Thank you all
Adrian

Is there a sticker on the motor? if so post a picture. Chances are they will be 1.8° steps per rev. As for the teeth on the pulley, have you tried counting them?????

Thanks Scottybfg
I'll have a look tomorrow once i strip the motors out. Are all the motors going to be the same?
And I'll try and get my counting head on for the pulleys.
Adrian

Yes all the stepper motors should be the same. Its not a big issue if you cant find a label, just calculate the steps for 1.8° and if you find your moments are half of what they should be then you have 0.9° motors. The important thing is the teeth on the pulley, mart one tooth with a marker then rotate the motor by hand counting the pulley teeth till you get back to the mark. They will most likely be 16 or 20 tooth pulleys. The correct steps per mm will insure you get sentimentally accurate prints.

The next part of the calibration guide will take you through setting up your extruder. The E steps are the most important thing here, and will solve most of your issues. Please note that the way the E steps are calculated should only be used for the E and not the X Y Z axis.

I forgot what exact clone of Prusa i3, you are using. [always better to put too much info in top post than too little ]

But if it is anything similar to the FT Prusa i3, then try using therippa's settings. [github.com]
I was lucky to be using the same model as him and it's pretty spot on for me. [I had to change a few things, like the extruder direction since I was a direct drive extruder and he upgraded to a geared extruder]

As far as the Cura part, what is your extrusion speed and filament diameter set at in Cura's 'configuration' page.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2017 01:40AM by VonRansak.

Hi guys thanks for all your help.
The printer is [www.ebay.co.uk]
I tried a print last night and this is what I found this morning.




The step motor is as follows.
Lead style:42SHD0217-24B

Step angle:1.8°

Number of phase:2

Insulation resistane:100MΩmin.(500V DC)

Insulation class:class B

Rotor inertia:57g.cm²

Mass:0.24kg

Rated voltage:3.75V

Rated current:1.5A

Resistance per phase:2.5Ω±10%

Inductance per phase:5.0mH±20%

Holding torgue:500mN.m

Detent torgue:1.5mN.m
Thanks
Adrian

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2017 05:18AM by Bee69.

Why are you still printing and leaving it UNATTENDED?????

Ok so the motors are 1.8° all you need now is to count the number of teeth on the pulley and calculate your steps per mm ( Im just going to assume the belt is GT2 so pitch 2mm). and update that value in the firmware. Right so thats step one of commissioning your printer done

then you can move onto the E steps.

By the looks of these new pics your printer is skipping steps, make sure the built is tight and that the pulley is not slipping on the motor

EDIT:
Im going to say that if you really just want something that is going to print, contact the seller, show them the pics and get your money back or a refund and buy one of these

[www.amazon.com]

Its a good little printer that you can have setup and printing in no time at all, here are the best cura settings for it [johnbiehler.com]

And a youtube video [www.youtube.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/2017 05:45AM by scottybfg.

Hmm.
I think you have several issues.
Have you mesured the hight of the x-axis ends.
They have to be equal.
You might have a (one of them) problem Where one of z axis get out of alignment.

Hi statorcodex ##they are dead level according to my Digital level box.
scottybfg I'm going to stick with this one for now. I want to learn all I can about it.
Guys It's guys like you that help out thickos like me and make us want to learn this stuff.
Thanks
Adrian

I have a detailed Instructable on a Prusa i3 build (from scratch)
It should help you with calibration & Cura
[www.instructables.com]

---

My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

Calibration models are your friend right now. You'll be printing many first layers and many tiny boxes till you get your settings down.

The upside is that most the pieces can be printed in under 30min in cura.

TL;DR: A small print will tell you just as much as a big print, and usually more, because you can spare 20min time increments to watch what is happening. Scale it (the model) down to make calibrations faster, but less accurate.
[www.thingiverse.com]

TL;TL;DR: Once it's calibrated, you can sit back and let it print. But calibration is a needed to get a good print. But you want to print really bad because you just bought this bad-ass piece of technology so you don't want to waste time on the calibration. "The 3dPrinter's Paradox"

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2017 12:17AM by VonRansak.

Thanks guys.

Also, that part in your picture where it separates and starts with a new origin halfway up the piece. Is usually caused by either: skipped steps (loose belt, or speed too high for your equipment [stock cura usually pretty slow, more a problem when you fidget with Slic3r]) /or XY physically hitting some sort of friction/immovable object that causes the missed steps. {I may have missed/skipped transposed? idk}

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2017 03:02PM by VonRansak.

Isnt this dude fixing up the same printer?
[youtu.be]

Looking at the youtube vid SatorCodex linked to....
Wow, he had to add 10mm nuts/washers to the Y frame.
With that printer I would just bin the whole lot and start again and I wouldn't use a clone E3D

Hi guys its the pest again. Im trying to upload the firmware and I keep getting this.?


Arduino: 1.8.2 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

Archiving built core (caching) in: C:\Users\Adrian\AppData\Local\Temp\arduino_cache_930731\core\core_arduino_avr_mega_cpu_atmega2560_0c812875ac70eb4a9b385d8fb077f54c.a
Sketch uses 51240 bytes (20%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253952 bytes.
Global variables use 2660 bytes (32%) of dynamic memory, leaving 5532 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8192 bytes.
avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device "\\.\COM5": Access is denied.


avrdude: ser_drain(): read error: The handle is invalid.


avrdude: ser_send(): write error: sorry no info avail
avrdude: stk500_send(): failed to send command to serial port
avrdude: ser_recv(): read error: The handle is invalid.


avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: ser_send(): write error: sorry no info avail
avrdude: stk500_send(): failed to send command to serial port
avrdude: ser_recv(): read error: The handle is invalid.


avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: ser_send(): write error: sorry no info avail
avrdude: stk500_send(): failed to send command to serial port
avrdude: ser_recv(): read error: The handle is invalid.


avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: ser_send(): write error: sorry no info avail
avrdude: stk500_send(): failed to send command to serial port
avrdude: ser_recv(): read error: The handle is invalid.


avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: ser_send(): write error: sorry no info avail
avrdude: stk500_send(): failed to send command to serial port
avrdude: ser_recv(): read error: The handle is invalid.


avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: ser_send(): write error: sorry no info avail
avrdude: stk500_send(): failed to send command to serial port
avrdude: ser_recv(): read error: The handle is invalid.


avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer
the selected serial port avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer
does not exist or your board is not connected

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.


What's going on.
Thanks
Adrian

avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device "\\.\COM5": Access is denied.

Do you have Cura, repitier host or pronterface connected to the printer while you are trying to upload the firmware?
Do you have the correct port selected in the Arduino IDE?
The Arduino IDE can't access the port

Thanks for the reply.
No nothing else running.
But I can't load the driver my computer (Windows 10pro) says the best driver is already installed.
The com port is set to 5 that's the one that comes and goes when I unplug the USB.
Thanks
Adrian

Sometimes, going through Device Manager and disable/enable the drive works to get it to 'see' the port.


Also, what is the Programmer set at? Mine is usually.

Arduino IDE > Tools> Programmer: USBasp

You can always play around with the Baudrate, too. If you get gibberish, then at least you have a connection, just the wrong baud.

The arduino uses com port 0 for programming.
So in the configuration.h you must set
#define SERIAL_PORT 0

Hi Guys.
I think im getting closer but still no prize.
I get this error message when I try to upload a sketch.

avrdude: Version 6.3, compiled on Jan 17 2017 at 12:00:53
Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, [www.bdmicro.com]
Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch

System wide configuration file is "C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/etc/avrdude.conf"

Using Port : COM5
Using Programmer : wiring
Overriding Baud Rate : 57600
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer

avrdude done. Thank you.

An error occurred while uploading the sketch

Thanks for looking.
Adrian

Are you 100% sure you have the correct board and port selected in the Arduino IDE?

Hi
I've set the com port to 5 whitch is the one that comes and goes as you plug and unplug the USB lead. And selected the right board it's a Geeetech GT 2560 board.
Adrian

I had problems..
OS X. Just gives me time out too..
so a old laptop with windows worked like a charm!

Have you tried different baud rates?
Start with the low numbers. And work you're way upwards.

This can be very frustrating problem..