Prints lifting after few layers

I have a CTC i3 with a ultrabase print bed added and having problems with the edges of printing onside warping (See attached picture)
Its fine with small prints no lifting but soon as i go to a bigger print it warps the corner.
PLA
Details of settings
Print heat @ 202C
Bed @ 65C
Brim with 6-9 lines
First layer height: 0.3mm
Print height 0.15mm

Could be a number of reasons.

Try starting with these changes
PLA
Print heat @ 199C
Bed @ 54C
Brim with 6-9 lines
First layer height: 0.2mm
Print height 0.15mm

I also would suggest dropping the temps down.
I use blue tape at 55c for PLA.
If you still have issues at a lower bed temp check the temp with a thermal heat gun - they are around $20.00

I Use Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape, This Transfer Tape is normally use to transfer decal lettering to signs or windows.
I like this because it come in widths large enough to cover bed in one piece. And cheap enough so you can use it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/27/2017 10:56AM by Roberts_Clif.

Early on, the general rule of thumb was, no matter your layer height, always make your first layer 0.3mm for a 0.4mm nozzle. That you got right IMHO. It gives you a thicker bead of plastic that stands a better chance of staying hot longer and sticking better.

I have never seen a reason to use a brim or a raft in two years of constant printing unless the object has a VERY small footprint. I just run 1 or 2 skirts to get the flow going steadily. For me, the key indicator of a good first layer that will stick well and not lift is to measure the thickness of that skirt, or in your case, brim. For a good first layer, it should be about 0.25 to 0.35mm thick. I use a BLTOUCH so I adjust my Z offset to get that. If you use a Z switch then you have to fine tune that. I've used mirror tiles or borosilicate glass and hairspray only and have never had a print lift if I keep that first layer thickness in that range.

Your temperature really depends on the plastic. I run 200 first layer and 195 for the rest. Adjust it in 5 degree increments if you still get lifting after getting your first layer correct. Slow your first layer speed down to 50% of your normal speed of 40 to 50mm/sec as a starting point. Also make your first layer width 125% for more squish. Bed temperature 60 to 70C.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2017 12:10PM by tjnamtiw.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Thank you for the advice I got a BLTOUCH just need to hack the firmware on the printer to install it as china CTC people don't like giving out the configuration.h file with the printer.
I ended up printing the item on a raft with a brim to keep it stuck down as there was a skinny loop inside that feel off without.

OK, good luck and keep 'playing'.

I hate that these Chinese makers don't give out the marlin code. It really helps when you can modify things to solve problems such as changing the times for checking to see if you are up to temperature. Many times they are set too tightly and it will alarm and shut down because the temperature overshoots for even one second more than it's set for.

Let us know how it goes.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2017 02:40PM by tjnamtiw.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

I don't know if you saw this or even if it is for your printer > [www.thingiverse.com]

I found several links to various ways to rewrite the Marlin. I know the printer was super cheap but if you can't adjust anything or add the BLTOUCH, the board is useless. If it were me, I'd put an Arduino/RAMPS combination in there like my Folger Tech i3 2020 has and write good firmware to it.

This might even be more help! >> [www.3dhubs.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2017 03:02PM by tjnamtiw.

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Thanks for help people ended up replacing the motherboard as the china version didn't have the pin outs for BLTouch sensors and all my trys to update firmware failed.

Hi
i have the CTC i3 prusa and i have the bed at 60 and print at 215 and use masking tape works a treat also got the ally heatbed