Actual printer temps on hot end and bed

Has anyone tested the actual temps with the firmware settings for the thermistors that are provided with the reprapguru i3? I did last night because I was having issues with prints. Hot end set at 210 C was actually 236.4, Bed set at 100 was 119. went into the firmware and the settings for the thermistors for both hot end and bed were 6. After a lot of testing, I found 1 works well for the hot end. Now the hot end is 212.5 at a setting of 210. The bed is 97.8 at a temp setting of 100. 75 is the setting i used for the bed in the firmware. All of the tempatures were checked with a Omega HH51 and a K type thermocouple. To check the hot end temp the thermocouple was inserted into the nozzle and attach right next to the thermistor on the bed.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/31/2018 11:04AM by Krpepe.

I started marlin firmware with a setting of 1 and have tested it with a external temperature probe getting almost the same reading on the 3D Printer and the Multi-meter temperature Probe.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

Have you had any issues with the bed temp? What setting are you using for the bed? i am very new to 3d printing. I have learned a lot over the last 6 weeks!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/31/2018 11:24AM by Krpepe.

This depends on the Filament, different filament different temperatures.

Using PLA I have used nozzle temps from 192C to 208 C with the best results. Printing slower at 192 and faster and 208C
Bed temps form 0 - 60C best results 40- 56C.

What material are you printing.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

Black inland abs. Was typically using bed 90-100 and nozzle 220-230. Was having issues which I can now attribute to the temp reading not being accurate.

When using ABS they Say you need some form of insulation to help keep the bed temp more stable.
It could also help to be inside an enclosure this too would help keep the temperatures constant.

My 3D Printers are inside an enclosure though more for venting the smell outside, it also helps maintain a better constant temperature.

Will be testing ABS soon.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

I have a torch guard I bought at menards under the heater for the bed. That has helped. Also installed a heat sink on the mosfet for the bed heater with a fan pointed at it. Really didn't like how hot it was getting. Plan on building an enclosure within the next couple of months.

Had to print the x axis plastics because the rod holes on the original were to large, by nearly 1.5mm. Shimmed it up as best as I could so I could print them. Also added 2 cable chain roots to the motor side so i didn't need clamps. Decided to go with abs right away since i didn't need a part fan for the prints. Now that the temps I am seeing are accurate it is starting to get easier. Print I am working on now is improved Y axis bearing holders to replace the cheap ones that came with the unit. One has cracked but still holding enough to print.

What software do you use for your projects? I use sketchup and slic3r.

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Krpepe

Had to print the x axis plastics because the rod holes on the original were to large

What software do you use for your projects? I use sketchup and slic3r.

Had to 3D Print a Smooth rod support for the Stepper motor bracket / Z-smooth rod support was too thin and the smooth rod kept jumping around.

I use Cura 3.4.1 though Cura 15.04.6 is the simplest to slice with. Matter Control, Raise 3D, Meshlab, NetFabb and Slic3r.
I Use Fusion 360 Free for hobbyist and ThinkerCad online to design my own 3D Models.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician