Folger Tech RepRap Prusa i3 - General Advice

Hi guys,

I have just ordered a Folger Tech Prusa i3 for a university project. It is due to come next week and I was wondering if anyone had any advice on the assembly side of things.

What is the one thing that would be recommended whilst building one of these things?

Look forward to any suggestions!

Thanks,
Matt

Read the assemble manual online or watch an assemble video for your 3D Printer on Youtube previous to it's arrival, this will prepare you for this Very important real life TEST!

" Can you follow instructions. "

Take your time and it will go smoothly as if you have already assembled one before.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/2018 09:36PM by Roberts_Clif.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

Build on a flat surface to check square and vertical from.
Get a good square and check it's square before trusting it (I have 6, 2 that I can trust for more than lumber)...just sayin'.

Get a plastic container with dividers to separate the bolts, nuts, brackets, bearings and washers. Research the RAMPS D1 diode--I'd recommend desoldering it if you intend to run tethered via USB with a 2004 smart controller as well, since it is very easy to blow the Arduino 5v regulator when display, USB power, and PSU power are on at once. If you did order a 2004 smart controller, also be aware that a common problem with them is backwards cable jacks. You will need a soldering iron, rosin core solder, metric measuring tape, precision screwdriver, normal Phillips and standard screw drivers, and an Allen key pack. I also recommend digital calipers and a rotary tool. The extruder did not mount securely to the X carriage since the kit now comes with larger motors than described in the instructions--It may be worth getting longer M3 bolts, such as M3x50mm ones, in order to cope with such problems (if necessary, cut down to the appropriate size or use shims/washers). Aside from that, follow the directions sequentially, and be flexible when something doesn't quite match the guide due to evolution of the kit over time. And, what you are already doing, seeking help here, you should continue doing if you encounter any problems that seem like show-stoppers.
Good luck!

The first issue I had was getting the Y axis rods positioned correctly so they are parallel and spaced correctly. It wasn't a big deal to do it but in the version of the instructions I had they didn't really cover that.

I would get it working with the stuff in the kit then start upgrading! The best upgrades I did were adding an aluminum plate over the bed pcb heater so the bed it actually flat. I replaced the hotend and extruder with a e3d v6 and titan. And if you are trying to make it quiet
I replaced the led strip power supply with a silent atx one.

If you search on here there is a huge thread of people building and getting these working.

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Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Check and correct your rods for straightness as well. Mine were bent .015 inches/ .4 mm.

May be it is too late but the best advice would be to cancel the order for this piece of junk.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2018 02:03AM by MKSA.

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"A comical prototype doesn't mean a dumb idea is possible" (Thunderf00t)

I had a bend in the 5mm threaded rods. The smooth rods were very high quality. But I was pissed seeing the Z rods wobble. I replaced them with four start lead screws.

What is your experience with this kit? If very fine attention to detail is paid, it can be one's best machine. Its very easy to screw up too, so that attention to detail is required. I have mine set up perfectly and only use it for technical prints requiring precision or artistic pieces requiring fine detail. The lead screw and E3D hot end upgrades are a must.

Thanks for all the advice guys! The printer is just at customs as it was shipped from the US.

I'm looking to add some improvements to the design for my university project. I've seen that the nozzles aren't the best quality, is that something that could be improved in the design?

Thanks!!

I have no experience with this kit. But worked an internship over summer where I did some basic fitting and assembly techniques so I should be able to handle it. I'm anticipating plodding through the assembly and making sure everything is aligned correctly and such.

The nozzles are fine, but the MK8/MK9 extruder paradigm is lacking. Bolts meant to hold the motor together are re-purposed as mounting bolts and holes in the motor are made into mounts for extruder components. However, it will be good enough to get you started. Don't push the speeds too high at first. And once you get everything working, consider E3D and 4-start Lead-screw upgrades. I currently run the original extruder, a clone heat-sink, a genuine E3D hotend, and Lead-screws. With the proper attention to detail, prints with this kit can rival SLA printers.

so how did you make out with your printer? was it the acrylic one?
i bought that one back in 2014 I think it was, and it still works great today.
I added a PLA cooling fan that i can slide in and out of the way when needed.

the build wasnt bad at all.

It's always a good idea to report back in when requesting advise, so folks know how the story ended.

Cheers.

Hey guys sorry for the absence I've had a few deadlines with uni. I'm building the printer at the moment but having some issues with the electronics.

My RAMPS board has come supplied with all the jumpers that I need but 1. Does anyone know the spec of these so I can order one? And where from?

Will be operational by Christmas so I will keep you guys posted

Thanks

you don't need any on the E1 section if you not using E1 stepper driver

you can also drop Z to 1/8 microstepping without issue, freeing a jumper there (presuming a4988 stepper drivers)

its a 2.54mm jumper, found all over the place... on older electronics. (old IDE hard drives had them, as did motherboards)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2018 07:55AM by Dust.

Thanks for that. What do you mean by E1 section?

Cheers

I'm now having issues with the extruder screws not aligning with the x carriage. Is there a way to align the two or will new holes need to be made?

I would have though that they would fit together without re-drilling.
As the Folger Prusa i3 kits are also made with a precision CNC machine.


How far off is the screw alignment ?

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

The screw holes are about 3mm out. What do you advise?

Quote
Roberts_Clif
I would have though that they would fit together without re-drilling.
As the Folger Prusa i3 kits are also made with a precision CNC machine.


How far off is the screw alignment ?

Their precision CNC machine are developed in house with printed parts made with their garbage 3D printers

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2018 12:25PM by MKSA.

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"A comical prototype doesn't mean a dumb idea is possible" (Thunderf00t)

Is the part that is 3mm off on the screw holes a 3D Printed part.

If so it maybe possible you could drill new holes without damaging it.
Could you post a picture of the Parts or link to a picture that will not line up correctly. A picture may make it easier to determine if it is possible to re-drill the holes.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2018 09:29AM by Roberts_Clif.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

The hole distance should measure 30mm from center to center. The extruder mounting scheme is a weakness in the design, but I had no problem with the hole distance. However I did have trouble with the bolt length being too short since the stepper motor given was different than that in the build instructions. Folger Tech is pretty good about sending replacement parts, so if your X carriage is not to the proper scale, they will likely send a new one without you having to jump through hoops. You may be able to drill, dremel, or file the part until it can mount, then print a new one once you get everything up and running.

Hello again guys.

I have succeeded in building the printer but i am now struggling to upload the supplied code to the arduino without errors.
I have found some information online about drivers but have tried the latest ones which do not work for me.

Has anyone had a similar problem?

Many thanks!

The driver and uploading supplied code are 2 different things.
Can you post a copy of the errors you are getting and someone may then be able to help.
Stick with it - it will be worth it in the end.

As an aside, I got my 3d printer for Christmas - a Sintron Prusa i3, so basically the same as yours.
I also had problems getting it to work.
In the end, I followed the instructions given in this guide from NW Reprap [nwreprap.com]
You can also copy the software from their site - instructions in the videos.

The load of the driver is explained and also the setting up of the software - I use Marlin.
Works a treat.
Once you have a working printer then you can begin the journey of upgrading.

That's very helpful thanks. I'll give a screenshot of the errors on Monday when i'm back in the lab.

When measuring the voltages on the potentiometers I had the multimeter set to the wrong unit of voltage and saw smoke appear. Is this something I should be concerned about and replace a fuse or something similar?

Many thanks, I look to have this completed soon!

Here is a copy of the errors I get from uploading the code:

Arduino: 1.8.7 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"

In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

from sketch\cardreader.h:6,

from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:37:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:30:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

__extension__ typedef long long fpos_t;

^

In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

from sketch\cardreader.h:6,

from sketch\stepper.cpp:30:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

from sketch\stepper.cpp:24:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

__extension__ typedef long long fpos_t;

^

In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

from sketch\cardreader.h:6,

from sketch\ultralcd.cpp:6:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

from sketch\temperature.h:24,

from sketch\ultralcd.cpp:1:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

__extension__ typedef long long fpos_t;

^

In file included from sketch\SdBaseFile.cpp:24:0:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

from sketch\SdBaseFile.cpp:21:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

__extension__ typedef long long fpos_t;

^

sketch\SdBaseFile.cpp: In member function 'void SdBaseFile::getpos(fpos_t*)':

SdBaseFile.cpp:298:8: error: request for member 'position' in '* pos', which is of non-class type 'fpos_t {aka long long int}'

pos->position = curPosition_;

^

SdBaseFile.cpp:299:8: error: request for member 'cluster' in '* pos', which is of non-class type 'fpos_t {aka long long int}'

pos->cluster = curCluster_;

^

sketch\SdBaseFile.cpp: In member function 'void SdBaseFile::setpos(fpos_t*)':

SdBaseFile.cpp:1496:23: error: request for member 'position' in '* pos', which is of non-class type 'fpos_t {aka long long int}'

curPosition_ = pos->position;

^

SdBaseFile.cpp:1497:22: error: request for member 'cluster' in '* pos', which is of non-class type 'fpos_t {aka long long int}'

curCluster_ = pos->cluster;

^

In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

from sketch\SdFile.cpp:23:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

from sketch\SdFile.cpp:20:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

__extension__ typedef long long fpos_t;

^

exit status 1
In file included from sketch\SdFile.h:27:0,

from sketch\cardreader.h:6,

from sketch\cardreader.cpp:2:

SdBaseFile.h:38:8: error: using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

struct fpos_t {

^

In file included from sketch\Marlin.h:10:0,

from sketch\cardreader.cpp:1:

c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\avr\include\stdio.h:950:33: note: 'fpos_t' has a previous declaration here

__extension__ typedef long long fpos_t;

^

using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'

If I try connect the printer to Pronterface then the Arduino board flashes a blue led twice and the message: "can't read from printer (disconnected?)" appears.
I've installed the driver and checked my wiring so i'm not certain of the problem.

Does anyone have any ideas? Sorry I am a frequent poster!

I think this is something to do with 'fpos_t' being a reserved term or something. Or already defined in stdio.h file.
I think you need to replace all the occurrences of fpos_t with filepos_t except the one in stdio.h file

What version of Marlin are you using?
Is it an old one?
The latest one does not have this error.

Google is your friend.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/18/2019 09:28AM by Ricky146a.

Mkiernan, you can use this: FT-2020-DISCOUNT-LCD-jefbed-0.patch. I submitted these corrections, but they were ignored. This patch will get Folger Tech's Google Drive firmware working. It will also fix the directional errors in the default configuration (mirrored prints). You will have to put your X end stop on the left side of the axis and put its plug in the X min endstop port (the last port in the row of ports). It is worth learning Marlin configuration and installing the latest Marlin with your own configuration file. The patch I provide just to get you started with a close-to-stock firmware build so you can at least have a working machine.