Understanding 'Home' ?

When selecting 'Home', all three axis's go to there home position.
Now, the Z axis is depressing the Z end stop.
After leveling the bed and sending a print to the printer, the Z axis once again depresses the Z end stop.
Therefore, only the X and Y axis's are working and the Z axis is grinding away at the heated bed.
No matter how many times the bed is leveled, the Z axis depresses the Z end stop when trying to print.

How is this prevented? What am I doing wrong?

Home sets the axis to a known location.

This can either be Min position or Max position for each axis

If you get the direction of movement for an axis wrong the endstop will be ignored

If you put a endstop configured as max in a min position (and vise verse), it will be ignored

Dust, thanks for replying.
I'm confused.
There are other problems I do not know how to solve.
If you are willing, I will allow you in as a guest to help solve the problems.
Will also pay you via Paypal.

I live on the arse end on the planet... most of the time your awake, i'm asleep (I'm just guessing your in some northern hemisphere place, america probably)

Setting up a printer remotely is quite dangerous. There is no way you can react to something going wrong fast enough to stop the damage.

Also you clearly have a rabbit warren of a problems... no one wants that sort of job, just to many things to do...

I suspect you actually need someone local that can spend a few days with you sorting out your printer.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2018 02:36AM by Dust.

Thanks for the honest answer.
I truly appreciate it.
Will try and find someone local.

dlw

How you getting on DLW.
Whats your process for leveling the bed?
If your z switch is inthe minimum position (close to the bed) then this should be a hard stop. You level the bed to be lower than this point by about 0.2mm.

I'm not!
Selecting 'Home All' works.
Then, the leveling of the bed goes fine.

However, when starting the print, the nozzle grinds in the heated bed.

dlw

Then I would raise the switch on the Z-Axis, why because you are too low if you are hitting the bed.

My Instructions for Auto Home and setting the bed height.
Using the LCD select home after home is complete.
Select move axis
Select Z-Axis : Lower the nozzle slowly with a piece of paper on the bed, Lower until the paper is pinched if the number for Z-Axis is not zero it should be.
This is how much the Z-Axis switch needs to be raised or the value that should be entered into Z-Offset to lift the Nozzle.


Note: Home on my 3D Printer is about center the Bed.
However I have an adjustable screw to raise or lower the Z-Stop so I simple turn the thumb screw to raise or lower the Z-Stop switch.
When I have correctly adjusted the Z-Stop. I lower the nozzle to the height that will allow me to slide a piece of paper under the nozzle (about .2mm).
Disable the Stepper motors move the Bed around so I can measure and adjust the four corners bed leveling wheels and adjust the Bed approximately level.

Now you can start a print. From .15mm to .30mm layer height.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/01/2018 01:32PM by Roberts_Clif.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

As you haven't said how you level the bed i assume its auto bed leveling.
So in the firmware are the home switches set to physical stops? That will prevent the grinding if the bed is lower than the stops.
If they are not physical stops then you can run the nozzle lower than the home switches. In this case we should check the auto level is saving to the firmware and that you have the correct offset set for the sensor to the nozle.
The auto leveling measures relative to the sensor so you must have the correct offset to the nozle.

I have A Proximity Sensor on the Z-Axis. Using Marlin 1.1.5 Bi-Linear bed leveling.
All other switches are mechanical Switches.
____________________________________________
I did use a similar method when I had only a mechanical end-stop switch on the Z-Axis.
(" Had no sliding mount for the Z-Axis or a screw to adjust the Z height for the switch ")
Only difference was used the Z-Offset in Marlin to set my Z-Axis stop point, Then used the four bed leveling screws to basically level the bed.

LCD Main Menu Click
Select Control Click
Select Motion Click
Select Z Offset change to desired height.

Sometimes Would lower the nozzle too low, this would move the Z-Axis end-stop switch and I would Have to reposition the Z-Axis end-stop switch and start again.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/05/2018 11:14AM by Roberts_Clif.

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Computer Programmer / Electronics Technician

Apologize for delay. Went to visit Daughter and family.

My Instructions for Auto Home and setting the bed height.
Using the LCD select home after home is complete. Did this.
Select move axis Did this. However, the nozzle is lower than the glass. Raised the nozzle.
Select Z-Axis : Lower the nozzle slowly with a piece of paper on the bed, Lower until the paper is pinched if the number for Z-Axis is not zero it should be. Did this. Z reads 0.
This is how much the Z-Axis switch needs to be raised or the value that should be entered into Z-Offset to lift the Nozzle.


Still grinding.

What should the height of the End Stop mount be from the aluminum frame?

You are kind of confusing the situation and making it more complex.

Keep in mind I haven't done manual bed leveling in forever since I went to probe leveling.

You have to adjust your bed to its lowest setting ie you have to tighten the bed screws to compress the bed on the springs or bring the bed down to its lowest possible point.

When you home your z axis you want your nozzle to stop above the bed about 1mm or less. To do this you have to adjust your endstop.

After you get the home position (with the bed in its lowest position) heat the bed to 60deg C.

After the bed is heated re-home and check that your nozzle still has a gap between it and the bed.

While the bed is heated, move your nozzle to the 4 corners of the bed and adjust the bed UP to bring the bed to the nozzle until it grips a sheet of paper. You will have to go corner to corner adjusting each corner until all 4 corners are at the proper distance.

After you have adjusted the corners re-home and test print.

If you are wondering why you are leveling at the corners and not the center, well it's because you can't with manual leveling. You have to even out the corners and hope your bed is level enough in the center.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/09/2018 10:38AM by jaded.

Thanks for replying.

Bed is as low as it can go.
OK, adjusted Z stop.
Nozzle, at home is about 1mm.
Bed is at 80c.
Adjusted all corners the same.
Rechecked the corners.
Sent a print to the printer.
Nozzle is at about 1mm.
However, the Z axis is sitting firmly on the Z end stop.
The X and Y axis work properly.
However, there is no way the Z axis can work while it is sitting on the Z end stop.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/09/2018 01:40PM by dlw.

Perhaps it's time to share a video of your situation.

If the firmware and all other mechanics are working on a manual level system the first layer will be sitting on the z endstop.

Assuming a cartesian printer since this is in the i3 section z endstop is considered the first layer and would stay stationary while x and y coordinate the moves. It sounds as though you are saying that a print won't run when the z endstop is triggered which sounds like a firmware misconfiguration.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2018 02:04PM by jaded.

Leveled the bed perfectly.
Then raised the Z axis 4mm.
Sent a print to the printer.
The Z axis moved down perfectly on the bed.
The Z end stop was not depressed.
X and Y axis worked OK.
Z axis never moved.

The Z axis moves when using the menu.

How do you flash the firmware?

this just sound like you have the Z max feed rate to high...

so when a control program or lcd sends a Z move it also send a feed rate, which is quite slow.

but when you move Z in gcode it uses the last set feed rate (which is quite high) or the max feed rate set in firmware. If the max feed rate is to high the axis just buzzes and doesnt move.


send the machine a "M503" (print settings)
what does the line starting with M203 say?

The max feed rate for your Z should be matched to you hardware... if using a m5 or m8 threaded rod it should be no higher than 3

Test it... send the machine a "M203 Z2" makes z axis really slow...
then do your test. Dont reboot or power off the controller between the M203 and the test as the setting will be lost. (its only temporary, till controller is rebooted)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2018 11:56PM by Dust.

Well, this presents another problem that was posted earlier in another post.
The PC accepts the printer when the USB cable is connected, as does Cura.
Control Panel list the printer as COM PORT 14 as does Cura.
However when trying send a print with Cura, Cura prompts to save the print.
Therefor, all printing is sent to a micro SD card.

Also, Arduino says it needs Sanguino installed.
Lauszus Sanguino is installed.
Followed the directions to install Sanguino and did install Sanguino Master.
However, Arduino still does not show a Sanguino listed even though both Sanguino's are listed in 'Hardware'.

Another issue, Arduino will not open now. Reinstalling it did not help.
All it does is show the first screen, then disappears.

I need a few paddles.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/11/2018 02:35PM by dlw.

no idea what you did...

start again...

uninstall arduino

remove the hidden Arduino15 directory
Arduino IDE 1.6.5r5 and previous:
C:\Users\(username)\AppData\Roaming\Arduino15
Arduino IDE 1.6.6 and later:
C:\Users\(username)\AppData\Local\Arduino15

install latest arduino from [www.arduino.cc]

install Sanguino using the board manager url
ie

Start up Arduino IDE

Open up the menu File|Preferences

At the bottom is a field Additional Boards manager URLs:
Enter "https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Lauszus/Sanguino/master/package_lauszus_sanguino_index.json"

Click OK

Open up the menu Tools|Board:|Boards manager...

This will open the manager. Scroll down till you see Sanguino
Click more info, this will reveal an install button.

Hit install.

Close the Board manager.



and its installed.

current marlins will now compile fine, may need to add in glcd libraries if you have a glcd.

old v1.0 marlins will not compile. giving an obscure error "using typedef-name 'fpos_t' after 'struct'" but you should NOT use such old marlins anyways, no safety features

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/11/2018 06:34PM by Dust.

Thanks you, truly, thank you all for your help.

Marlin 1.1.9 is installed.
Arduino is working.
Now to work on configuration.h

Any help appreciated.

dlw

As before W10 and Cura say the com port is 14.
Configuration.h will not accept this.

serial port in firmware configuration.h is the serial port on the printer controller, not the com port on your computer. #define SERIAL_PORT should not be changed from 0 (unless you know what your doing and are trying to implement something like serial over bluetooth or direct serial from a pi not over usb)

computer serial ports <--> Controller serial ports
com1                       0 (usb over serial)                  
com2                       1
com...                     2
com99                      3

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/11/2018 09:06PM by Dust.

The board does not blink when using 'Blink'.
My understanding is it is a port problem.
Current port setting = #define SERIAL_PORT 1

If so, how is this solved.

I presume your just talking about the example program blink?

blink uses an IO port, this has nothing to do with serial ports. (other than the serial ports being specialized IO ports)

In blink It uses LED_BUILTIN, this is defined in the board file, but if your using a generic board file ie Sanguino it may not actually match where you have a led attached.
You can easily change this by adding a line like the following to the top of the file.

#define LED_BUILTIN 13

What IO port depends on your controller
for eg on a ramps there are 4 leds, on D8, D9 and D10 (these also turn on/off the mosfet) and a general purpose led on D13
So you drop the D and just use the number in the define above.

what controller do you actually have? all I know so far is its got a Sanguino on it.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/19/2018 06:10AM by Dust.

What ever came with the printer.

DLW, you are your own worst enemy

I try and help you but you seem to deliberately go out of your way not to help yourself.

"What ever came with the printer." is extremely unhelpful. We cannot see your printer...

You need to know what your controller is if you intend to do anything firmware related.

My apologies! I thought I mentioned earlier that it was an Ender 3.
Same as photo except mine is V1.1.3
If the photo does not come through... I tried.

Cant find a circuit diagram... but it looks like the LED is on pin 27