Fisher heatbed idea

With the bed being 170mm I can see this fit without and problems 12v to. [www.ultibots.com]
They also have 170mm but don't know if would fit without any problems.
[www.ultibots.com]

Yes these work fine. I have one on my Kossel kit. My pad is 160mm tho.. the plate I have is 170mm so you lose a small amount of build area but it's worth it for the ABS factor. I have not put it on the fisher yet but I plan to.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/03/2015 06:20AM by Geoffro.

One problem you face is that the acrylic bed will have to be replaced by something that can take the heat. The obvious choice is aluminium; but you would need either to insulate the balls used to activate the bed switch (e.g. using the insulating kits used to bolt transistors to heatsinks, or else rewire the bed switch connections to detect a break between any two of them.

To run the Fisher from 12V (to suit a 12V bed heater), you will need to replace the fans and heater cartridge by 12V versions.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I am just using a boroscilliate round glass bed I bought off Ebay, it was around $30. I didn't want to mess with the Duet too much so I was going to try an external power supply to run the bed.. basically I'm ripping it off the kossel, still wired up and running both machines, but just heating the bed through the kossel interface, thats the plan anyway for the interim . The only thing I need to figure out is getting the bed leveling balls on the glass plate... would need to make some adapters, but thats what 3D printers are for right

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/03/2015 09:07AM by Geoffro.

FWIW, I'd be hesitant about installing any sort of heat bed on a Fisher without swapping out quite a few of the acrylic parts.
I once fitted a standard 200 mm square heatbed to the acrylic bed on a BFB 3000. Fearing that it might cause an issue even went to the extent of using standoffs to raise the bed off the acrylic. It lasted about a month before the heat cycling caused the bed to crack in hale straight down the centre.

Ahh yeah good point, didn't even think about the heat and the acrylic!

double post sorry.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/03/2015 11:08AM by Geoffro.

You should be able to epoxy or glue some screws on the glass. Just make the sure they are connecting both sides though. If you insulate underneath the floating bed on the acrylic with some kind of heat resistant tape or cork that might keep temps down to not bother the acrylic. on the 12 volts bed you need to get a regulator or make one if you have electronic knowledge. There is also a 24volt bed that will run with 19volts but will take 220watts from your power supply. I still need to research the Duet board on total amount of watts will it handle. 12 volts version on uses 120watts. However, the board does take 12volts to 32 volts.
I know another link but 1.00mm cork will keep the acrylic from feeling the effects you will lose 2 to 3 mm in build high. [modelshop.co.uk]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/03/2015 01:50PM by zaccom.

[www.ebay.co.uk]
Something like this would work to lower to 12 volts 3amps enough to run the bed at 12 volts.

Edit** [www.ebay.com]

Supports 10amp for the 12v heatbed

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/03/2015 05:30PM by zaccom.

Quote
zaccom
I still need to research the Duet board on total amount of watts will it handle.

My advice is not to draw much more than 12A from the heated bed connector, whether you run at 12V, 19V or 24V. The mosfet will certainly take more without overheating, but the heated bed terminal block and the traces on the PCB might not be good for much more than that.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

120watts /12 volts = 10a so it would work. Thanks

I have made a suggestion related to this thread in this post: [forums.reprap.org].

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

What about using a carbon fibre panel to replace the acrylic and then putting whatever heated or not heated build surface on that?

Quote
Theolodian
What about using a carbon fibre panel to replace the acrylic and then putting whatever heated or not heated build surface on that?

Melting point: for carbon fibre: 3500˚C but it will flex with what mixture you made the solid plate out of it. Here is a example but it is not cheap [dragonplate.com] but can take serious heat you want something study still with polycarbonate or metal frame. I am going to try a cork sheet then my heater bed and Printz board (ninja board) combinations. Because once I replace the pressure sensor board out I have more room with this combination. Carbon fiber will work but make sure it not the fake stuff or you might burn your house down. I forgot it be hell to get the print straight off of carbon fiber it so course.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/16/2015 05:57AM by zaccom.

---

ZacCom Corporation Software and Engineering Design. www.zaccom.net
email: zeldridge@zaccom.net

UAV/FPV Drone Designer
Software game developer
AutoCAD and Blender Expert

3D printer hobbyist