My build feedback

Okay, so - first time printer owner, avid hobbyist and maker, so I reckon I fit exactly into the target demographic... :-)

I got on pretty well with the instructions, but here's my feedback on the stuff that could have used some more instructions/changes:

• Microswitches - should be cut slightly more than flush, and the bend needs to be reasonably severe
• MIcroswitches - just a tip, scoring the switch leaf with sidecutters/diamond cutters and then using narrow nosed pliers to bend the end worked like a charm to break off a section of the leaf
• No mention of the hex bolts for securing the side panels to the base/lid - hard to retrofit
• No mention of the lid anywhere, unless I missed it - not rocket science, but worth a mention at least
• Hot end ducting etc - it's quite hard to see what's going on with the pictures, especially the rotation of the effector plates relative to the ducting
• Hot end securing bolts - my one major construction gripe, there's just not enough room. The clearance between the nyloc and the hold-down nut is practically nil, so rotation of the nozzle in the heatsink is very hard if it's not fully secured. I noted in some of the later photos, the nuts mysteriously become button head screw heads...
• Commissioning - check for endstop positions should come before homing. Homing with all your microswitches in the "at end" position equals a nasty hot-end first full-speed descent... thankfully with no apparent damage
• Cable routing - quite hard to get everything into that rectangular slot, and the thick bundle of cables collides with the carriage due to the frame panel bowing inwards, even with the hot end cable loose.
• Cable routing - the bowden tube seems happy with the lid on, but the hot end cable certainly isn't and kept getting stuck between carriage and idler. I've just got it loose out the side of the printer, which seems to work fine, but is a bit messy.
• Spool holder - maybe a bearings-on-table stand approach would be better. The bowing of the side panel is significant.

Overall I'm pretty happy with it. Calibration still needs some work, evidently, and I've noticed uneven first layers over prints with a larger footprint, to the point where the plastic is only a very thin layer at one edge where it's ~1mm thick elsewhere, so I've evidently got some way to go before I have a perfect printer, but it's already done a number of good prints and I'm very happy. I think that once some of the seasoned vets start to get their hands on this thing and guide us newbies in properly calibrating and ensuring/validating that our construction is correct, it'll be a very user-friendly printer for first timers....

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2015 05:04PM by winterjames.

I've sent my feedback to RRP, but it has a lot of points in common with yours. I note that they've now modified the effector documentation to show the alignment notches on the three layers that make up the core of it.

Yeah, that was a big help.

One other thing - the microswitch leads needed a bit of crimping with a pair of pliers, and I've also just put a few bits of tape on the inside of the structure to stop the wires slipping off and keep the loom out of the way.

Hi winterjames

Thanks for your feedback. Could you email it to me on support@reprappro.com as well? Then it will go in our notes. Good point about the top and bottom plates extra holes for securing the side panels, though generally we don't bother with them! Fitting the top plate is (sort of) covered here: [reprappro.com]
When removing and/or fitting the side panels, make sure to slacken off the belt tensioners. Other wise, the top idler bracket gets pulled down the rod by the tension in the belt, bending the side panels out.

Ian
RepRapPro tech support

Hi, still building my Fisher, nasty homing incident when one of the steppers refused to move and the effector was sent into the side panel before I got to the emergemcy stop, it had been working fine and as Winterjames mentioned I had the thrill of the full speed decent, took my breath away, turned out it was due to loose wires on the end stops, mine are now soldered in place.