For panels, plywood will be a much better solution than the original acrylic, to be coated with solvent base paint to lock humidity exchange and improve stability.
The specific hobbed insert could be found at Think3DPrint3D (or yet at emaker)
Specific bowden brass end may be difficult to found.
And that special hotend, light, small and attached by its bottom.
Then you have parts which may be difficult to supply.
Round standoff could be replaced by hex one, and that works (used on D-Box)
You need 15 balls 6mm diameters, M3 tapped. You could buy them at animation/stop motion shop for 1 £ each, shipping not included. Alternatively, for 1/3 of the total cost, you could buy in China 1 kg of these balls (thats more than 1000) and setup a stop/motion shop… here [
www.alibaba.com]
There are 9 to 10 different screw size. No asortment will have all screws, you will have to place a specific order.
The three bed springs may be found in asortment at 12 Euros the set.
The rest is standard, you may replace the AT belts by GT2 type.
About the hotend.
It is key in the design because of its low weight, compactness and the fact it is attached by its bottom. Replacing it by a traditional metal one (E3D or hexagon) will increase significantly the weight and decrease the usable height by ~30mm.
You may use Kossel like effector with a J-head, which is good because it is lighter than all-metal, but still, you may loose ~25mm in usable height and the ability to print PETG.
And you shall find a solution for part cooling, really needed for PLA.
There is a compact effector for a small delta printer, which is using an hexagon hotend, this is the effector of the micro-delta by e-motion tech. It is heavy, but the micro-delta is not as fast as the Fisher. They supply the STL file somewhere.
[
www.youtube.com]
That may be the simplest solution yet.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2016 10:26AM by PRZ.
