Fisher heatbed
Posted by jmgiacalone
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Fisher heatbed May 31, 2016 03:23PM |
We have put together a heatbed kit for people to upgrade their Fishers, to allow printing in a broader range of materials, such as ABS, HIPS and PETG. You'll need a 120W PSU, which beta owners will already have, but otherwise the bed is a straight replacement for the standard (un-heated) one.
Files are on github for those who are interested [github.com]
More details on the blog [emaker.io]
Let me know if you have any questions.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
Files are on github for those who are interested [github.com]
More details on the blog [emaker.io]
Let me know if you have any questions.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
|
Re: Fisher heatbed June 01, 2016 05:04AM |
Hello bgkdavis,
I did think about putting a connector above the base plate so the bed could be easily and completely removed from the machine, but decided against it for now as disconnecting it with the machine on will trigger a heater fault.
The wires are long enough to pop the bed out and away form the machine enough to clean, see a couple of photos here.
It would be simple enough to cut the wires and fit connectors on yourself if you wished to use it in this way. Something like the Molex Microfit range should be suitable.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2016 05:04AM by jmgiacalone.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
I did think about putting a connector above the base plate so the bed could be easily and completely removed from the machine, but decided against it for now as disconnecting it with the machine on will trigger a heater fault.
The wires are long enough to pop the bed out and away form the machine enough to clean, see a couple of photos here.
It would be simple enough to cut the wires and fit connectors on yourself if you wished to use it in this way. Something like the Molex Microfit range should be suitable.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/01/2016 05:04AM by jmgiacalone.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
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Re: Fisher heatbed June 01, 2016 06:38PM |
Hello jmg123,
I've been planning to test the Fisher with 24v, and in fact received a suitable power supply in the post today, so I'll let you know how it goes.
We do have bed springs. I'll get them listed on the site over the next couple of days.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
I've been planning to test the Fisher with 24v, and in fact received a suitable power supply in the post today, so I'll let you know how it goes.
We do have bed springs. I'll get them listed on the site over the next couple of days.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
|
Re: Fisher heatbed June 03, 2016 06:18AM |
@Greg_be
Thanks for your order! I'm just waiting for the packing boxes to arrive, so I'll try and get a batch of heatbed kits out today.
@jmg123
You may need a power supply which can provide more current than the one you linked to.
Cartridge heater resistance is 6 Ohms and the bed is 3 Ohms. So at 24v, the hot end will draw 4A and the bed 8A. Your power supply therefore needs to be able to supply at least 12A at 24v, or 288W power. These figures cater for powering all the heaters at full power, which is not necessary except to speed up the warmup time from cold. During printing, the heaters operate at a fraction of their maximum power.
You can adjust the M301 S parameter to reduce the power available for the heaters, but with only 5A available, I fear you may need to reduce the power so much that your heaters will not be of much use.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
Thanks for your order! I'm just waiting for the packing boxes to arrive, so I'll try and get a batch of heatbed kits out today.
@jmg123
You may need a power supply which can provide more current than the one you linked to.
Cartridge heater resistance is 6 Ohms and the bed is 3 Ohms. So at 24v, the hot end will draw 4A and the bed 8A. Your power supply therefore needs to be able to supply at least 12A at 24v, or 288W power. These figures cater for powering all the heaters at full power, which is not necessary except to speed up the warmup time from cold. During printing, the heaters operate at a fraction of their maximum power.
You can adjust the M301 S parameter to reduce the power available for the heaters, but with only 5A available, I fear you may need to reduce the power so much that your heaters will not be of much use.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
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Re: Fisher heatbed June 12, 2016 01:56PM |
Just got round to installing my heated bed kit, works like a charm
, Polycarbonate printing with no warping 
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Re: Fisher heatbed June 12, 2016 03:17PM |
Awesome! I have misplaced my spool of Polycarbonate, so I couldn't test that material, but I'm pleased to see it working for you.
What temperatures are you running?
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
What temperatures are you running?
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
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Re: Fisher heatbed June 12, 2016 06:13PM |
You may find it better to print onto Kapton then. When it cools, parts tend to come off more easily.
If you don't want the airflow across the top of your part from the nozzle ducts, you can easily remove them. There'll still be a downdraft over the part, but it won't be so aggressive. That's what I do when printing with ABS, as otherwise it tends to delaminate during printing.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
If you don't want the airflow across the top of your part from the nozzle ducts, you can easily remove them. There'll still be a downdraft over the part, but it won't be so aggressive. That's what I do when printing with ABS, as otherwise it tends to delaminate during printing.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
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Re: Fisher heatbed July 16, 2016 02:15PM |
Finally, one month later (i'm not using it everyday), some news about my heated bed.
I tried with my worst filament, a red PLA from Prima3D
After some tests with Kapton tape,there was no grip at all.
I installed the BuildTak, bed at 70 and filament 200, the filament is sticking well.
I can finally finish my spool with other things than failed parts!
Here is an example : a reworked part to replace the acrylic arm from the extruder.
This kind of part with small footprint was impossible before
I enjoy it
I tried with my worst filament, a red PLA from Prima3D
After some tests with Kapton tape,there was no grip at all.
I installed the BuildTak, bed at 70 and filament 200, the filament is sticking well.
I can finally finish my spool with other things than failed parts!
Here is an example : a reworked part to replace the acrylic arm from the extruder.
This kind of part with small footprint was impossible before
I enjoy it
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Re: Fisher heatbed September 04, 2016 08:11AM |
Hello Steve,
The homed height in config.heatbed.g was set a little high. It has now been reduced to 161mm and updated on github. See the M665 command to adjust.
Sorry for the trouble caused.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
The homed height in config.heatbed.g was set a little high. It has now been reduced to 161mm and updated on github. See the M665 command to adjust.
Sorry for the trouble caused.
[emaker.io]
[emaker.limited]
|
Re: Fisher heatbed October 20, 2016 11:04AM |
I bought the kit from emaker.io and am very impressed. Very easy to build and easy instructions to follow. Jean-Marc was able to respond very quickly to a quick question I had.
I've made a slight modification to mine and added an EC3 connector and RC servo connector to the wires of the heatbed. This is in case I want to fully remove the bed to remove intricate prints or clean the bed or maybe go back to non-heat bed.
I printed my first 20x20mm cube in ABS this morning and am very impressed it worked first time!
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/21/2016 06:25AM by AndyKay.
I've made a slight modification to mine and added an EC3 connector and RC servo connector to the wires of the heatbed. This is in case I want to fully remove the bed to remove intricate prints or clean the bed or maybe go back to non-heat bed.
I printed my first 20x20mm cube in ABS this morning and am very impressed it worked first time!
Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/21/2016 06:25AM by AndyKay.
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