How many printing hours did you get from a set of acrylic rods?

Hi,

Eleven hours of printing resulted 0.3xx deviation.
I try not to run auto calibration before each printing.

If I get around 300 hours from a set of acrylic rods, I'll build another custom Fisher.
I made a set of polycarbonate rods for spare.

I'll probably be shot at for this but the acrylic rods are junk, mine starting breaking/cracking within the first couple of days of printing. The carbon fibre rods with mugen ends I made have been in service for 9+ months without any issues.

To be fair I only calibrate after turning the printer on and never between prints so couldn't tell you what the deviation is after a long print.

There's lots of talk in this forum about the carbon fibre rods. I used 3mm carbon fibre rods from a kite shop and the mugen ends, and made a little jig with a block of wood and a couple of drill bits so that I could glue them up all the same length.

One extra benefit of the ends is it makes the printer quieter. I also recently switch to Igus Bushings to replace the LM8u bearings and they make a big difference to noise.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/29/2016 06:51AM by DADIY.

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DC42 Kossel 330mm x 2meters
My Thingiverse Creations

@DADIY

After 20 hours of printing, it developed layer shifting as I expected. I found freeplay in two diagonal rods of Y tower, one diagonal rod of X tower.
I tightened the three diagonal rods and recalibrated.

Failed print. The lower part showed layer shifting.


Layer shifting was everywhere.


Degree of layer shfting got bigger.


Printed part after fixing loose diagonal arms and recalibration.


I made a set of aluminium diagonal rods with igus ball ends. But I didn't put them on a jig during epoxy curing.
The maxium length difference between rods was 0.75 mm. I will have to rebuild new set of diagonal rods.


I

Quote

The carbon fibre rods with mugen ends I made have been in service for 9+ months without any issues.

That sounds promising for Fisher users. Did you use hot and cold technique?
I assembled Tarxxis ball end following the instruction of a well-known Kossel kit company. It turned out just pressing the ball into plastic housing was stupid technique that would develop early failure of ball end. Mine probably lasted a month.

My Fisher is very loud - one blower and one 5V cooling fan for the board. I'm wearing ear plugs while Fisher is running.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/30/2016 09:01PM by janpenguin.

I'm not aware of the hot and cold technique. The mugen end push over the exists balls with a little firm even pressure. I used 5 minute export from the pound shop and they are lasting well.

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DC42 Kossel 330mm x 2meters
My Thingiverse Creations

It turned out that five to six loose balls were the root cause.
I didn't apply Locktight to each ball end intentionally when I install diagonal rods.
I checked the hole diameter of 12 rods. There was no wear out sign.
One end of a pair of rods didn't have firm compression against the ball. I replaced M3 nut (2.30 mm height) with three M3 washers (1.50 mm) to have tighter fitting. It worked out.

Hi all
I have only recently built my Fisher-Delta and replaced the cold bed with a heated one. I have noticed that the sides have become slightly distorted and have thought of replacing which this forum has provided answers.. However, I am very interested in replacement of the rods to carbon with igus ball ends. to aid me could you tell me what diameter and length of carbon rod I need and what changes I need to make to existing rod support mechanisms. I have found that one of my rods are starting to were and vibration has set in. Fortunately I have three replacements but based on the forum they wont last long. Any help is much appreciated.

M3 igus ball end takes M3 bolt and M3 set crew.
You should be fine using carbon tube whose inner diameter is over 3.00 mm.
I recommend a jig and decent glue or expoxy.

I used 3mm carbon fibre from a kite shop and the Mugen h0855 ends which will snap over the existing ball ends. The Mugen needed a little material removed with a 3mm drill bit and I used a simple jig to make sure they were all the same length.

IIRC I used two 5.5mm drill bits to drill the holes at the correct width in some scrap wood and then pushed the drill bit in each hole. The assembled rods can then slide over the drill bits ensuring they are all the same length. I used a little grease proof paper between each rod so any epoxy that dripped would stick.

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DC42 Kossel 330mm x 2meters
My Thingiverse Creations

Thanks janpenguin and DADIY both methods seem ideal so I think I will have to toss a coin to decide.
Many thanks Gary

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/02/2016 06:14AM by DADIY.

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DC42 Kossel 330mm x 2meters
My Thingiverse Creations