btt skr mini e3 v3 + ender 3v2

You have your TX and RX lines swapped over (Black and white cables)

It should be

  /**
   *                  ------                          ------                
   *           (ENT) |10  9 | (BEEP)                 |10  9 |             
   *  white-----(RX) | 8  7 |           white---(RX) | 8  7 | (TX)---black   
   *  black-----(TX)   6  5 |                  (ENT)   6  5 | (BEEP)   
   *            (B ) | 4  3 | (A)               (B ) | 4  3 | (A)       
   *             GND | 2  1 | (VCC)              GND | 2  1 | VCC     
   *                  ------                          ------             
   *                   EXP1                            DWIN         
   *
   * All pins are labeled as printed on DWIN PCB. Connect TX-TX, A-A and so on.
   */

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Oren_Arg
Looks like you didn't switched between RX-TX (black and white according to your scheme)

Correct! After switching White for Black on the LCD, the screen is now working. Thank you very much. Now to figure out why my hotend fan isn't working

So, is anyone using a CR Touch with specifically the Ender 3 V2 and the SKR Mini e3 V3? After solving my LCD problems listed above, I have tried multiple things to get the CR Touch to work but it continues to fail. Plugging it into the mini e3 board wired the same way as the 4.2.2 board, the probe is non-functional. When booting the printer, the probe will drop / deploy and fails to Z-home. I did rewire it since it seems to be upside down (compared to the 4.2.2 board) and now it self-tests correctly on boot (lights up, deploys and retracts), but when I Z-home it fails to trigger and crashes the bed.

I have tried several firmware options (TH3D, Jyers, custom firmware with changes to probe settings) and having no luck. Any ideas?

I didn't find any info on interfacing the CR Touch to anything other than the Creality stock boards.

It sounds like the CR Touch is a clone of the BL Touch as far as Marlin is concerned. You should be able to go to the BL Touch menu on the LCD (under Configuration) and get it to deploy & stow at will.

Another resource is the M43 S servo probe test. M43 must be enabled via uncommenting PINS_DEBUGGING in configuration_adv. M43 S will deploy/stow the probe a few times and then ask you to manually trigger the probe and report if it got a trigger response.

If that doesn't help then post your wiring, pins_xxxxx.h file and your configuration files and I'll see if I can suggest anything.

My current configuration is as follows:



I have now tried to connect the top 2 wires (Blue, Red) into the Z end stop connector. Previously, it was wired into the Z-probe connector as Blue, Red, Yellow, Black, White top to bottom.

My firmware is compiled as follows, with the Blue/Red wires in the Z end stop: #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG, #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN, //#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING, //#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN PC14, #define BLTOUCH, #define Z_SAFE_HOMING.

When I ask the printer the home Z axis, the probe deploys just fine, but once it triggers on the bed, the LED inside the probe flashes RED and continues to move into the bed and crash.

I have attached my Configuration.h, Configuration_adv.h, and pins_BTT_SKR_MINI_E3_V3_0.h files if that helps.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/09/2022 10:12AM by niblem.

Here's a video that's very clear about how to plug in the wires for your setup:

You would need to go back to using the Z probe as the Z end stop.

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[email protected]
Here's a video that's very clear about how to plug in the wires for your setup:

You would need to go back to using the Z probe as the Z end stop.

Great video find. It does clearly show the wiring orientation for the CR Touch and the mini E3 V3.0 board. I have re-wired my CR Touch to match the video and I have re-compiled my firmware to look similar to that of the BTT official firmware on GitHub. Unfortunately, after flashing the firmware and trying to home the Z-axis, the probe will deploy and when it triggers off the bed, it will flash RED and smash into the bed still...

The only thing I can think of is to use the M43 S servo probe test to verify that the probe's signal is getting back to the MCU.

Quote
[email protected]
The only thing I can think of is to use the M43 S servo probe test to verify that the probe's signal is getting back to the MCU.

In the LCD menu, if I choose Deploy Probe, it does in fact deploy and retract as expected.

You've proven that the control signal to the CR Touch is working correctly.

What we don't know is why the endstop signal is not being recognized by the controller. The main possibilities that come quickly to mind:

• Configuration problem
• Cable bad
• Cable not tied to correct pin
• CR Touch bad
• MCU bad

I'm not aware of anything that can be done via the LCD to further troubleshoot the issue. Can you run an USB cable between the controller and a PC? If yes then there are commands that can be sent to get more information.

The command M119 reports endstop and Z probe status. Moving a jumper from the endstop to +3.3V and then to ground should tell you via M119 if the MCU is working correctly.

The command M43 S would be my next step after M119 testing.

https://imgur.com/a/QdVhav9

Here is a clip of exactly what is occurring. I have the CR Touch attached to the Z-probe connector with all 5 wires and the Z-end stop is empty. I am using firmware that is known to work for others with Ender 3 V2 and CR touch and mini e3 V3 (HDDVRN's version). You can see when the probe is trigger, it flashes red but keeps on going and the nozzle will hit the bed.

Please connect the CR touch cable to the standard connector of the board. The printer does not see the sensor response.

Last build [disk.yandex.ru]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2022 03:04AM by hddvrn.

Quote
hddvrn
Please connect the CR touch cable to the standard connector of the board. The printer does not see the sensor response.

Yes, it is already connected all 5 wires to the Z-probe connector on the board. The clip above is using your firmware you have shared. That is the behavior it is displaying.

At the outset, I would like to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. Without you, I would not have been able to activate this screen. Unfortunately I can't compile merlin so I would especially like to thank my colleague hddvrn for sharing these files. I have two questions for my friend hddvrn, could you take a photo when you have a bltouch connected. I have to be connected differently than you because I'm going crazy. The second problem I encountered was the fan control from the airflow to the nozzle. It only works when I set one hundred percent and it also seems to me that it is not full speed. Thank you in advance for any help.

I've had a lot of "fun" trying to get fans to run at less than 100%. Most ran at 100% or nothing. A few run at about 75% and higher. For my nozzle fan I ended up buying a PWM fan which meant I had to supply power, ground and a PWM signal. On one of my printers I just found a fan that moved more than enough air and then blocked the inlet.

I'm surprised that you can't compile Marlin. VSCode with the Auto Build Marlin plugin makes it very easy. None of this fooling around with platformio.ini. Here's a short video on how to install and use this approach.

Very nice instructional video. And returning to the fan, then why was smooth regulation working before ?

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[email protected]
I've had a lot of "fun" trying to get fans to run at less than 100%. Most ran at 100% or nothing. A few run at about 75% and higher. For my nozzle fan I ended up buying a PWM fan which meant I had to supply power, ground and a PWM signal. On one of my printers I just found a fan that moved more than enough air and then blocked the inlet.

@bob.kuhn, here's a cut and paste from Thingiverse on how I solved my part fan issue:

At least on my Predator, the factory part cooling blowers are 24 volt, 0.2 amp Boosfan JD4010M, and they truly suck. They barely move air.

I replaced them with Delta BFB0412HHA-A units, wired in series to just one FAN0 connector. These are 12 volt, 0.08 amp units, and are physically a drop in replacement. I use two in series electrically so that each drops 12 volts, and the pair can run off of the same 24 volt FAN0 connector with the same PWM.

Although it is not considered "best practice" to wire BLDC motors in series, these are locked rotor protected, so that unless one blower fails shorted phase to phase (very unlikely), their low current draw and high impedance will prevent catastrophic results.

Why do this? The original units would barely start at 75% PWM, and barely move air at 100%. The new units actually start moving at about 5%, run smoothly and reliably at 10%, and will lift the printer off the bench at 100%. Just kidding, but the airflow is astounding, and actually having real air speed control over a large range is a huge benefit. And no monkeying with PWM settings in Marlin, either.

Plus, the new Delta blowers have dual ball bearings, so they should last for years. I don't know what the old blowers had for bearings, nor do I care, since they barely worked anyway. I may dissect one to find out.

The Delta blowers are commonly available from many sources, starting at about $7 each. I got mine in 2 days from Mouser for $14 each.

I use the Bakak duct from here on Thingiverse, and highly recommend it. The factory original duct basically just blew on the nozzle with the anemic air flow from the factory blowers, and I got rid of it long ago.

EDIT: I opened one of the old Boosfan JD4010M. It doesn't really have ANY bearings, per se. Just a plastic shaft rotating directly in a hole in the plastic housing. It's a miracle that these things spin at all.

The fan I wrote about is from the new series because it is installed in the extruder from the s1 pro and that's why I do all these modifications. This extruder does not fit the V1 ender version at the factory and some modifications must be made.