CoreXY Jerk settings

What are others using as a jerk value on there corexy printer. I have tried 600 and now running at 300 with better results, but longer print times. Just wondering what others are running.

Taz

M201 X2000 Y2000 Z500 E5000            ; Accelerations (mm/s^2)
M566 X600 Y600 Z30 E1200              ; Maximum jerk speeds mm/minute

That's what I'm using for my corexy built from v-slot. I based my printer on the D-Bot CoreXY by spauda01 on thingiverse, basically changing everything but the frame and motors. I'm using a custom direct drive extruder (HEAVY), DuetWiFi, BigBox Varipower bed, 24V, and some custom printed frame brackets.

As I'm making the frame even stiffer, I've been raising the acceleration. What I need are some diagonal supports instead of the regular corner brackets, and I'll be able to raise x-y acceleration to 4000.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2016 12:26PM by Masterjuggler.

I''m running 800 for Jerk on X and Y - seems to be OK

@Masterjuggler. What speed are you printing at? The reason I ask is that I'm slowly pushing mine up to see what I can get too (just for the hell of it you understand). I'm doing infill at 100mm/s, solid infill at 90mm/s and it's happy enough for largish parts apart from when it starts to get close to the corners. 100mm/s starts to get crazy when the movement is only 30mm or so and really crazy when it's less than that. I've found dropping the acceleration to around 1000 or less has the effect of slowing down these small print moves so I can still set the speed to 90 or 100 because it'll never get that high on small moves but will on longer moves.

My standard is (all mm/s) 60-infill/solid, 45-outline, 250-travel. I can print over 150mm/s, but it looks really crappy. I much prefer quality over speed.

I thought about and experimented a little with high speeds and low acceleration, but that would increase chances of ooze during perimeter crossing. Maybe I'll try it again. What are your retraction settings like for such low acceleration? I'm running 100mm/s with 1mm retraction for a direct drive extruder.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2016 01:40PM by Masterjuggler.

You can really print over 150mm/sec? How on earth do you get the hot end to melt filament that quick? Are you using an E3D volcano or some such?

My "normal" speeds are about the same as yours but for large "functional" objects where the finish isn't super critical, I print faster. My retraction is different to anything you'd use. I have a Diamond (mixing) hot end so I have to retract all 3 filaments simultaneously otherwise all that happens is that filament gets pulled from the unused inputs rather than from the nozzle tip. So I use firmware retraction DC42s branch (G10/11). 4mm at 2400 mm/min is working well for me at the moment - that's with 350mm long Bowden tubes and E3D titan extruders. I've tried pressure advance but it doesn't seem to make much difference.

Your post on low acceleration and high speeds actually got me thinking about trying that again. Last time I tried was when I was running a bowden setup and was having far more issues with ooze. I'm testing right now, and it's looking like I can do 150mm/s @ 1500 acceleration.

I'm using a regular e3d V6 with an mk8 gear. I used to hate mk8 and favored mk7 due to bad experiences with stripping filament, but after trying gears from about 5 different sources, I discovered all are not created equal.

As far as being able to melt filament quickly, it's probably due to running a 24V setup. I have no issues maintaining 150mm/s with PLA @ 205C and a 0.4mm nozzle @ 0.48 extrusion width. Judging by the red leads, the heater is a 25W. And yes, it is the 24V heater.

Strange. I'm using 24V and a 40W heater and I strip filament at 130mm/sec 'cos it can't melt quick enough (also PLA but slightly lower at 195 degC which seems better on my machine). Must be that the Diamond has a shorter melt zone or maybe it's just the mass of the huge brass heater block/nozzle. I might try wrapping it in a silicone boot some time. Not to worry though, 130 mm/sec is way too fast for any sort of decent finish in any case.

Just had a thought - I might be able to push the speed up when using 2 or more filaments simultaneously as each one has it's own melt zone - might try that some time, just for the hell of it.

Like I said, I had a lot of trouble with stripping filament before finding a good drive gear. Now I see nice, clean indentations from the teeth in the filament, and no dust is created no matter how many retractions happen. Now that I can put a crap ton of force behind the filament, I have no issues with high speeds. You may also want to try raising the temperature with the high speeds so it can keep up. Unless your hotend literally can't keep up, in which case you need a better heater or a PID tune.

I'm realizing we are hijacking Taz-dig's thread. Let's try to wrap this up or start a new thread. Sorry, Taz-dig.