After talking to the peopleay Berkeley this is the stuff they recommend for 50 pound test
Berkley ProSpec Chrome [www.amazon.com]

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 12/28/2017 04:44PM by delloman.

Quote
3dprintgeek
David,

I will be building and documenting the builds with stock ramps, and motors first, I will also do Silent step-sticks, and Mechaduinos later if they are still in stock when I'm ready. While providing some excellent features to the hang printer I feel they will for a while be the most exotic build. They require more electronics skill and knowledge than the other builds and the greatest cost. They were on back order for a long time. I also have a install made of Ubuntu Mate with remote access setup on the Raspberry Pi, by passing the need for Octoprint. It allows for the use of many more software options, not that there is anything wrong with Octoprint. i just like more options. I like the option to customize. If you wish to have me include the Duet I will work on documenting a build with it second, placing it before the steps-sticks. I feel it will much easier to take advantage of working with TMC2660s by remoting into the Pi.


Thank you

Thanks for responding. A Duet WiFi is on its way to you. I look forward to hearing of your experiences with it in a Hangprinter.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Tobben,

Which is labeled correctly Fig.1 or Fig 2. in the following drawing?



Thank you

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/28/2017 06:59PM by 3dprintgeek.

David,

Thank you for the opportunity. I will be happy to share my work here as I complete stages.

Your help is appreciated

Thank you

Assuming the figures show the mover from above, I try to aim for Fig. 2, but it works either way.

With Fig 2 configuration, ANCHOR_C_X gets a negative sign, with Fig 1 configuration ANCHOR_B_X gets a negative sign...

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torbjornludvigsen.com

Tobben,

Thank you for that information.

I watched the HP build videos. This is where the questions are coming from as I get ready to document things and create standards I hope will make it easier to understand the build. Below is a poorly constructed image of the anchors. This approximates the way things were laid out when you measured for the calibration. I was really unclear on what was getting measured. Can you explain it here?



Thank you

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2017 02:54PM by 3dprintgeek.

Seen from above, I measured this (B and C might be mirrored, I don't remember):



As a sanity check, I measured the hypothenuses to the B and C anchors, and compared:

The sanity check was ca 10 mm off in both cases.

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torbjornludvigsen.com

Tobben,

That helps greatly. Have a great New Year.

Thank you

It's alive! I should be up and printing soon, but everything is mounted and moving.

Hang v3 [imgur.com]



[www.youtube.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2018 05:52PM by brotherchris.

Yeah! Cable sleeves look good

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torbjornludvigsen.com

I just added this part for using the Duet WiFi on the Hang Printer to Thingiverse:

[www.thingiverse.com]

I still need to test print the parts.

Enjoy

Thank you

Torb,

Can you recommend a link to a calc to make the sanity measurements a little quicker?

Thanks,
Chris

You mean like this: [www.miniwebtool.com] ?

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torbjornludvigsen.com

That works, thanks! I was just curious on how you figured the sanity check out, but it looked like on the live stream you just figured out the math yourself.

Hey Torb, please check this video out and let me know if I missed anything. I should have it printing this week sometime. The only thing I am going to change as of now is motor orintation, but that will just be a motor cable swap.

[youtu.be]

Thanks,
Chris

Cool! I just viewed 4 minutes right now, will watch the rest tomorrow morning.

I had an experience with a cheap 12V 10A power supply a couple of days ago. It over heated after 30-40 minutes of printing and rebooted my Mega and Mechaduinos. This has never happened when I've used sanely configured stepstick drivers. Should it happen to you, try decreasing motor currents slightly.

I increased the recommendation in the BOM from 10 A to 12.5 A just now to reflect my new experience.

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torbjornludvigsen.com

Thanks for checking it out.

I have already shelled one of the power supplies. I will give the 12A one a try.

Chris

Hey, I watched through it now. It's very clear and gets an amazing amount of detail just right!

Placing the front of the ABC anchor linerollers flush with the anchor mount edge is a good tip for easier calibration later. I recommend also cutting the PTFE tube flush with the printed part front. It gives a sturdier exit point for the line, and a more defined point to measure during calibration.

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torbjornludvigsen.com

Great, thanks for the tip!

Hi All,
I’ll keep it short. First really great work from Toben with this idea. I built a kit (bfb rapman) long ago and wasn’t very pleased with the overall experience mainly because of the poor design on the extruder and also because the board died. Back then I upgraded the machine with arduino_ramps_marlin and I succeeded. Anyways I’m looking again into 3d printing and I’m really excited since there has been great developments.

I’ve been reading the threat and GitHub before trying to build a Hangprinter. The printer (monoprice select mini) which I’m going to use for the parts has 120mmx120mm bed size so I modified the scad files to make the spool_gear 80 teeth and motor_gear 8 teeth (keeping it 1:10), spool_r 36. Besides writing into the firmware the new spool_r what else do I have to change to keep everything working? I’ll be sacrificing too much quality? Is there anything else I’m missing here?

Thanks

If you use the stock Marlin, you can set exactly those things you have changed (radii and #teeth) See: [github.com]

If you use good old HangprinterMarlin you will get away with only setting radii, since you kept 1:10 teeth.

You risk getting too much line buildup with so small spools. I recommend the 0.36 mm FireLine instead of the 0.5 mm one. Set spool buildup factor accordingly. Mount as short lines as you can, even if this limits your print volume. (And specify mounted line accordingly.)

When mounted, test carefully that the individual axes feed the exact amount of line that you tell it to feed. This can be done with G1 or torque mode (G95). HangprinterMarlin also has G7 which will take spool buildup into account. G6 will ignore buildup, so it can't be used for testing axes' accuracy.

Looking forward to see your build!

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torbjornludvigsen.com

G95 only works if you have Mechaduinos

I'm sitting with the stock Marlin code now and noticed I had implemented "G6 S2" that will take spool buildup into account (like G7 does in HangprinterMarlin). Had just forgotten to document it...

Delloman is right, so if you don't have Mechaduinos, you must use G7 or G6 S2 to calibrate individual axes.

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torbjornludvigsen.com

thanks, great feedback. Once I finish printing I'll post some photos of it.

Torb,

In the Tom live stream the AY and the CX values were negative. Can you explain to me why that is the case?


Chris

Hi Chris,
That is just a convention. It is chosen quite at random, but establishing a convention has been useful. It makes possible a sanity check of anchor calibration value signs at compile time (feature in Configuration.h). It also makes it easier to write auto-calibration code that works for everyone. Putting constraints on the non-linear solver, like here, makes it converge faster and in more predictable ways.

Only if we use computer vision in our auto anchor calibration procedure can we throw away conventions about motor order. In that case, we can even put ABC motors on any of the XYZ motor connectors. Not having to track our ABC spools during build would be nice... Let's cheer for @fredrudolf's computer vision work, using PI + PI Cam to calibrate

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torbjornludvigsen.com

Thanks for the explanation.

Here is a link to the first v3 print vid.

It made it about 130mm before I had a motor skip and I had a layer shift. Probably mis calibration on my part. The first 130mm look way better than I expected, very nice print. In my firmware it looks like line build up is commented out, is that the new default? Or should I turn it on and calibrate it? I am still doing some tuning with the measuring tape. I will keep trying and report back. Let me know what you think.

[imgur.com]

[photos.app.goo.gl]

Chris

Thanks for notifying me. The buildup compensation is now back on by default.

The print looks great! Congrats! So well deserved!

I think your wooden sheet (below the glass sheet in the video) can be a great print bed if you cover it in white glue. It's sometimes easier to distribute a thin layer of glue if you dilute it with a little water first.

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torbjornludvigsen.com

Thank you,

I have never had good luck with glue but with you as my sherpa I will try again.

Howdy all,

Got my hangar assembled, about to start on the ceiling plate.
How do you determine how much line to cut for each one of your rollers?

Additionally, does anybody have any "good to know" type tips for planning and building the ceiling plate?