Hi all,

... i tested with low-temp melting "Roses metal" which melts at 95°C and isn't so toxic as Fields- or Woods-metal.

For my first test i heated the 100 gramm-probe in a half coconut shell with a hot-air gun until it melts and moulded in my "Han Solo in carbonite" silicone form:




... and here some more detail:




The plate is 35mm x 100mm (the figure measures 75mm from knee to head).

The material is hard/strong as aluminium but much heavier, nearly like tin.

... and not really cheap - i ordered the 100 gramm probe for nearly 20 Euros

Actually I found a link where you can make it at home.

[www.angelfire.com]

Hi freds,

... thank you for the link!

In our german CNC-forum we're disputing too make it on pur own - i found out that the components are combined as follows: bismut=50%, lead=27% and tin=23% ...

Viktor

VDX Wrote:
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>
> ... and not really cheap - i ordered the 100 gramm
> probe for nearly 20 Euros

I was going to cook up some Rose Metal up for myself till I found if for sale here in California.

[www.rotometals.com]

At that price, it's not worth the trouble of making up.

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Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something.

Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.

Thomas A. Edison

heh.. yeah, i found out a while back how to make the 59C variant (BiInSb) which flows nicely but is a lot more expensive.

I would advise pre-melting and purifying the raw metals BEFORE mixing, or else you will have problems later on with blockages etc.

I did wonder about using a modified version of a soldering gun, as metal "deforms" when current flows.
this could be used to deposit and steer droplets, providing far more control than a simple solenoid

if anyone wants to chat, please email me on testing_h at [email protected]

(humans, decode address and include the keyword "Unobtainium" )

regards, -A

also, i came up with the idea (based on an HP printer technology) of using an optical mouse chip or small CMOS camera to image the recently deposited metal and calculate the required pattern(s) of overprinter plastic to generate a composite structure. Sort of like changing write laser power "on the fly" used on DVD writers.

-A

Hi! I would like to make a non-tarnishing, polishable rim for a bathroom sink; the rim would then be glued into a teak countertop and the whole countertop set on top of the sink. I am thinking of using either Rose's metal or casting pewter. The advantage of the former would be its melting at 212F, but can I keep it polished, if it is wet intermittently? Pewter would be harder to melt, and also tarnish easily...Any suggestions? thanks D

Once it's cast, have you considered the option of plating the metal to reduce any tarnishing/corrosion possibilities?