Woops, i use Skeinforge, thanks guysby Hobbes20xx - General
Hey guys, My prints are doing alright now, but at the end of the print, my print head stays at the very corner of the object (or wherever it ends) and cools down. The problem is that the head oozes a bit, so while its cooling down excess plastic is forming on the printed part, which sticks the extruder to the part, and is kind of annoying, is there a setting that makes it so that the head movesby Hobbes20xx - General
additionally, if i cave and order a makergear hotend, can i replace their heatercore (NiCr) with a resistor heater?by Hobbes20xx - General
@nophead, i have been able to print about 75% of the 40mm calibration block until catostrophic failure, it prints pretty well to my surprise... what hotend would you suggest for a beginner? i can get something lathed from a person i know, i just need to know what WILL work. preferably out of some common (aluminum, brass, peek and ptfe) materials (sourcing ptfe sleeve for the inside is difficult,by Hobbes20xx - General
By the way, i forgot to mention im using PLA, beacuse i dont want to mess with a heated bed right now with ABS. I also dont have a lathe, but a decent drill press.. and im located in US.by Hobbes20xx - General
Hey guys, so ive been trying unsuccessfully for awhile now to get my reprap printing, i DO NOT want to buy a hot end but i will if necessary. I have been looking for a decently easy-to-make hotend. As far as i can tell, you want your hot zone to be as small as possible, and it is almost necessary for some sort of heatsink to be attached. Currently, i have a .5 m hole in an acorn nut, attached toby Hobbes20xx - General
Mine does this, so i assume its okay, as long as it returns to the spot its supposed to be in.by Hobbes20xx - General
currently im running 16 feed/flow rate, i just wanted to make sure it wasnt a software issue but a hardware one, sounds like it is, thanks guysby Hobbes20xx - General
Never had this problem until now, whenever i try to print something the second layer of my print is farther back than the first layer, causing a staggering problem, anyone know the cause? someone posted something about this before but i couldnt find the thread...by Hobbes20xx - General
hey guys, my printer finally prints! however, when i try to print a belt clamp (as an example) my first layer doesnt want to stick (pla/yellow masking tape). my questions are when do i need to use a raft? when dont i need to use a raft? is there a better build surface for me to use? do i need a raft on that? thanksby Hobbes20xx - General
IT WORKED! thanks so much sublime! it printed really well, until i ran out of filament, i wasnt expecting it to work hehe... now to duplicate the results..by Hobbes20xx - General
so, now it decided as soon as it got to the middle of my platform to throw my extruder in reverse for a few seconds before printing. which caused a jamby Hobbes20xx - General
yea, changed filament packing density from .85 to 1 and diameter from 2.8 to 3.0...here goes againby Hobbes20xx - General
i did everything both of you said to do, and i remade my gcode. heres the new however, the flowrate seems reaaaaaaaaaaal slowby Hobbes20xx - General
okay i turned raft on and it looks slower already, now i just think i need to tweak skeinforge's heat settings, as i wasnt aware that skeinforge not pronterface controlled the heat setting. i havent changed my feed/flowrates, but looking at them they are feed rate ...16 and flow rate setting (float) 210? is this okay or should that be changed to 16?by Hobbes20xx - General
hmm im a little confused, my thermistor table is correct, what should i do? heres my gcode:by Hobbes20xx - General
FInally figured out why my hot end jams. it seems like my wades extruder is going 10 times faster than it should be? which my hotend cant melt the plastic that fast, so it works for a second then nothing, and the filament gets chewed to crap. my config.h looks like this //Calibration variables float x_steps_per_unit = 80.376; float y_steps_per_unit = 80; float z_steps_per_unit = 1800; float e_steby Hobbes20xx - General
Personally, my prusa is built using all SAE parts except the small (m3,m4) bolts and the m8 threaded rod for the z axis... makes it the same as any other metric mendelby Hobbes20xx - General
Thanks guys, ill try the silicone and ptfe tape and let you know, wildseye might be a possibility but i dont have the brass parts on hand...will let you all knowby Hobbes20xx - General
So, ive been able to print a little bit, when i try to print my calibration block i get about 1/4 of the way (it comes out pretty nice, actually) then my hotend leaks and quits extruding. I need some help on what hotend to make, rather, how to mount it to a wade's. ive been using nopheads green resistor method with good success, but the acorn nut/barrel connection point leaks mid-print.by Hobbes20xx - General
your right nophead :/ hehe woops switched them, recalibrated, now i can print! just did a test block, thanks guys!by Hobbes20xx - General
Well, i just tried recalibrating the prusa to see if that makes diference, before going on to your idea... now that i recalibrated, that gcode makes my motors lock up beacuse it looks as if they are being pulsed to fast. you can see the massive difference after calibration in my new config.h is there a way to stop this in skeinforge?by Hobbes20xx - General
Yep. when i jog them using RepG or pronterface they move in the proper directions..by Hobbes20xx - General
Hey guys, so i feel as if im soo close to actually printing something. When i send the Gcode to the printer however, my y axis shoots 10mm from the print bed, and my z axis wont move! (x works fine though) Im using Sprinter, RAMPS v 1.3, Skeinforge to convert this file to my printer, when i change the .stl to Gcode it doesnt look as if the z axis is being told to move (attached). Im gonna post myby Hobbes20xx - General
anyone wanna tell me the BEST (easiest for now) way to print to my prusa..i want to just print a calibration block, and have replicatorg, skeinforge, python, an pronterface all installed. With these tools, whats the best way to create gcode and send it to my printer?by Hobbes20xx - General
Hey guys, after alot of help i got my printer going, it will walk through all the steps of a print (as far as i can tell) only problem is i cant get the ABS to stick to the print bed (prusa/painters tape) is it necessary to have a heated bed for ABS or am i doing something wrong?by Hobbes20xx - General
alright, i think i calibrated it properly. lets see if this works..by Hobbes20xx - General