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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Seeking V-plotter firmware options - 2 years ago
Marinus I’m in almost the same exact spot as you, but I’m not having brownouts from using the servo because I don’t have it connected currently. Using marlin on ramps I can only get it to move in one direction. Did you ever pin down what the cause of that was? If you have a copy of your marlin config I would absolutely love to see that.by tinyenormous - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Re: Any chance of a meetup in the Boston area soon? - 12 years ago
Kevin, You shouldn't have to manually position any axis once you have your endstops properly configured. It IS possible to not home before printing and manually center and level your printhead, but it's really worth the effort to set up homing so that you can hit print and walk away.by tinyenormous - Massachusetts, Boston RepRap User Group
Re: Advice for my printer design - 12 years ago
I think that bowden actually works better with 3mm because it is easier to push through a tube. I've never used one though, so take that with a grain of salt. People say that the main problem with bowden extruders is that reversal is difficult to properly control. That means that strings between 'islands' of printed material are fairly hard to avoid. Several production machines have bowden extrudby tinyenormous - General
Re: [USA] I will trade 5-7 lb of 3mm Black ABS for your ??? - 12 years ago
As promised, here's a pic of the two spools. 3mm black abs. I'm surprised that no one has expressed any interest. Let me know if you are interested.by tinyenormous - For Sale
Re: Any chance of a meetup in the Boston area soon? - 12 years ago
I emailed molly rubenstein at artisans asylum the other day to ask if we could use their meeting space. She never wrote back. Maybe I'll bug her again. Does anyone have a place we can hold a meeting? If the last one at Jeff's house is any indication, then pick a time and place and people will show. Otherwise it's just guys arguing over the internet.by tinyenormous - Massachusetts, Boston RepRap User Group
Re: I'll trade my 5-7 lbs of low grade 3mm black ABS for... - 12 years ago
As promised, here's a pic of the two spools. 3mm black abs. I'm sadly surprised that no one has expressed any interest. Let me know if you are interested!by tinyenormous - Massachusetts, Boston RepRap User Group
Re: back to crap - 12 years ago
as for the bed - that should be as close to dead flat as possible. Most people use glass because it is one of the best cheap flat surfaces available. Yours looks really thick to be glass. Is it plexi? That probably isn't causing your blobbing though. One cause on my machine of blobbing is if my fan is up too high and it cools down my tip too much. The auto temp shutdown will sometimes kick in. Dby tinyenormous - General
Re: plain aluminium smooth-rod - 12 years ago
Hi Emmanuel! I have two questions: 1-how much do the "RJMP-01-06" cost? I can't find a price for them anywhere. 2-why are you using 6mm rod? I would worry that 6mm steel rod would flex a lot. Aluminum would be even worse. I'm interested in hearing how this works out. I love the foldarap, and I've been thinking of making one!by tinyenormous - FoldaRap
Re: ORD Hadron with PrintBoard and QU-BD extruder? - 12 years ago
Brain: they almost all use nema 17 motors. That is the standard for all of the motors.by tinyenormous - Reprappers
Re: back to crap - 12 years ago
Roger, did your extruder end up jamming up, or did you stop the print? Do you have a fan on your cold end? I have a makergear prusa, and I would get similar results on hot days before I added a fan on the top part of the extruder. At least in my case, heat was climbing up the extruder, making the plastic rubbery higher up. That made it harder to push, so it would slow down, come out in bits andby tinyenormous - General
Re: Banding in prints...??? - 12 years ago
I just reloaded and saw (A) that you are not using acme rod, and ( that you have bottom constraints on it. pull up on your motors and x axis, pop those bearings out of their holders, put everything back together unconstrained and do a test print. I bet you'll be in much better shape. The theory goes: If the top and bottom are fixed and the rod is anything but 100000% straight, then it has to wobby tinyenormous - General
Re: Banding in prints...??? - 12 years ago
I've been going through much the same process in the last week. I think it all has to do with the rods being bent and the rest of the z-drive system not allowing the x carriage to move independently from the wobble. I started out with a makergear prusa with a lower z bearing, a solid motor coupler, and at least one bent z rod. I changed to a flexible coupling and it helped a lot. The coupling caby tinyenormous - General
Re: Banding in prints...??? - 12 years ago
just for fun, put your thin wall print next to your z threaded rod and see if the bumps line up. If they do, then you know the problem is in your rod.by tinyenormous - General
Re: Whats with the "ribbing" on my prints - 12 years ago
Just to throw this out there, I can't really see any way that the "wobble arrestors" could perform as promised. The stiction of plastic on plastic when the weight of the x axis and motor is resting on it must be higher that whatever wobble force is created. That means that the wobble is then transmitted. Just like without the wobble arrestors. If you put some sort of bearing / sliding interfaceby tinyenormous - General
[USA] I will trade 5-7 lb of 3mm Black ABS for your ??? - 12 years ago
*This offer is for us and canada only. International shipping doesnt really make sense for this* I bought 9 lbs of black 3mm abs from 3D ink a while back. I think they mentioned it wasn't super consistent diameter, but I bought it anyways. I used it for a few months before I realized that I was having problems because my .35 mm nozzle and my extruder setup were not very tolerant to filament variby tinyenormous - For Sale
Re: nozzle height from bed - 12 years ago
I actually do a combination of both methods. My endstop is on the bottom, but it is 2mm or so above the bed. I have a homing command, and then a g92 z1.7 command in my startup script. The switch easily has 3 or 4 mm between actuation and the point where it actually gets damaged. That way i can swap beds and only have to change the gcode. I could see this working much better with optos, in fact.by tinyenormous - General
Re: microstepping / layer height relationship - 12 years ago
Yep. Sorry that I have been absent for a bit. I actually think that I was wrong in my assumption. I went back and did a few controlled tests. Believe it or not, I think that the reason why I suddenly had better results is because I turned _off_ my cooling fan. Weird, huh? If it proves anything, it is that there are a lot of variables at play for any given symptom, and something can make it apby tinyenormous - General
Re: microstepping / layer height relationship - 12 years ago
I'm not saying that I understand it, just that I observed it. I'll post some pics when I get home, but the .3mm print looks like it has almost a mm of z wobble in a consistent, repetitive shape rippling up the print. All else being the same, the .2mm print doesn't have that. To me that means that it has something to do with the layer height. This is a complex beast so it could be many other thinby tinyenormous - General
microstepping / layer height relationship - 12 years ago
I recently made the switch from .3 to .2mm layer height on my mg prusa. The difference has been HUGE. What I mean by that was - I thought I had a BIG z wobble issue but it turned out to be some weird artifacting resulting from 1 step not always equalling a z movement. I'm not 100% sure, but I think my ramps z axis is set up for 1/16 step. There must be a mathematical way to figure out what theby tinyenormous - General
Re: Z AXIS CRASHES INTO HEATBED WHEN PRINT START - 12 years ago
I would check the start/end gcode section in whatever you are slicing with. It sounds like you are taking care of manually homing and setting the z height. If that is the case, then you want to make sure that the slicer doesn't add any home commands. G28 is the home command. I think there may be another one that does a similar thing. Look in there and see what's there. Just to ask all of the rigby tinyenormous - General
Re: Quietest reprap? + Ideas on how to make any reprap quieter? - 12 years ago
Here's an update - I greased everything and tightened some loose bolts up. That helped a tiny bit. I moved it from the table to the floor, that helped a LOT. I also have isolated it to mostly the y axis. That is the laser cut axis. I took wood glue to all of the joints on the y carriage, but I doubted that would work, so I halfheartedly applied it, and I didn't take it apart. Needless to say, itby tinyenormous - General
Re: Which one of these features is making my extruder a complete piece of uselessness??? - 12 years ago
I have come to realize that hot ends are the one thing that is just not as easy as it looks. All of your questions kind of point to the same thing. If the plastic gets melted too far up into the hot end, then it will be very difficult to push plastic out. Adding some thermal wrap to the bottom will help keep it hot, and then adding a fan to the entire operation will keep the heat from leaking vby tinyenormous - Mechanics
Re: Quietest reprap? + Ideas on how to make any reprap quieter? - 12 years ago
I have a bone stock makergear prusa. It uses "Precision, Self-Aligning, Press-Fit 8mm Bronze Bearings" for the x and y axis. Would switching to igus bearings help? Side note, when people around here say igus XXXX do they mean bushings, bearings, or something else? I will measure its sound output later this week. If I had to try to explain the noise I would say that the psu fan is about 1/3 the vby tinyenormous - General
Re: Quietest reprap? + Ideas on how to make any reprap quieter? - 12 years ago
@numberSix, Yes, my machine is in a big communal room and it makes it hard to watch tv or relax. My lady doesn't really enjoy the motor whine, so any amount of it is tough. The Igus looks like a good choice. Has the community decided on any specific model? I'm looking at the RJUM-01-10, but I don't know if self aligning matters in this useage. $10 each - wow! I'll definitely be trolling ebay forby tinyenormous - General
Quietest reprap? + Ideas on how to make any reprap quieter? - 12 years ago
I'm looking to build a new printer with an eye (or rather an ear) towards noise levels. I've seen both REALLY loud and quiet prusas, but the quietest printer I have ever seen has been a mendelmax. I think the rigid frame and fewer nut/washer/rod intersections may give for less opportunity for vibrations. I'm probably going to do a few mods to whatever style I choose, but I was wondering if anyoby tinyenormous - General
Re: [project] Heavy mendel, a self replicating 3Dprinter/mill/PCB engraver - 12 years ago
Petrus - so you use braided steel wire? Does that stand up to the constant flexing well? I have seen similar things with solid wire and I have been trying to find out more info on what type of wire works best. Also, I've been looking for some bearings like you have, with either nylon or rubber coatings on them. Can you give me any more info on where you got yours? Thank you for posting this!by tinyenormous - General New Machines Topics
Re: Makerslide Aluminium Extrusions - 12 years ago
go here. Inventables took over production after the initial guy realized he wasn't going to do it full time. In stock as I write this.by tinyenormous - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I'll trade my 5-7 lbs of low grade 3mm black ABS for... - 12 years ago
Sooo.... I went out and bought some crappy plastic. It isn't actually all that bad, but my printer with a .35 nozzle would clog occasionally, and strip occasionally, and it was driving me insane. I finally realized that it all started when I bought the ABS, so I switched filament and was happy again. To make things worse, I've since switched to 1.75mm filament, so I couldn't use it if I wanted tby tinyenormous - Massachusetts, Boston RepRap User Group
Re: Reprap Boston meetup in 2012? - 12 years ago
dave BRING IT!by tinyenormous - Massachusetts, Boston RepRap User Group