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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Crimp terminals - 14 years ago
I used this one. Works great on the dupont style terminals:by mikey - Controllers
Re: Teacup Firmware - 15 years ago
I've been dealing with the same issue recently. I'm not sure which one to choose for the ATMEGA2560. Anybody have any input?by mikey - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: ReplicatorG firmware question - 15 years ago
Found the fix. and Just took more looking Now to test it......by mikey - General
Re: Oh joy, and take it apart...error in my build or manual? - 15 years ago
garyhodgson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Guide is updated. Did you look into the Y axis belt rubbing the lower center cross threaded rod?by mikey - General
ReplicatorG firmware question - 15 years ago
OK, so my assembly is (reasonably) complete. I was using Teacup firmware (I have no clue of the version) with ReplicatorG, a RAMPS V1.2 board on a Prusa and I actually got the X-axis to MOVE. OK OK, I know it's not exactly some big earth shattering event to the majority of the users here, but it MOVED and that's a huge leap for me at this juncture. The issue now is this: I open ReplicatorG to jby mikey - General
Re: 2.54mm connector pin crimper review - 15 years ago
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > you are still required to bend the pins for almost > all insertions to be locked securely. > > ... or simply cut that crimp latches off. I've > done this for a few hundred pins now and they > insert just nicely. > > The industry prefers crimping because it's faster > (given the appropriate toolby mikey - Controllers
Re: 2.54mm connector pin crimper review - 15 years ago
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Who says a crimp pin has to be crimped? Soldering > the wire in is simpler and more reliable. Crimping is no less simpler or less reliable. Soldering works, but you are still required to bend the pins for almost all insertions to be locked securely. A soldered wire may not be dimensionally capable of insertion dueby mikey - Controllers
Re: 2.54mm connector pin crimper review - 15 years ago
Only if you can print metal or some high-density material like delrin. Either may, the real work is done in the jaw. You might be able to print a device to HOLD jaws (which are much cheaper), but the tolerances of the jaw, plus the hardness required to bend the pins and compress the barrel are above what we can do with a Mendel and PLA.by mikey - Controllers
2.54mm connector pin crimper review - 15 years ago
I don't know if anybody has reviewed any crimpers yet, but since I couldn't find anything about them, I thought this would be a good idea. The standard header for the Arduino and RAMPS is the 2.54mm (.100") pitch header system. These are readily available as pins, and can be purchased for connectors with a little homework. I recently purchased sets of 4-pin and 3-pin crimpable pin connectors forby mikey - Controllers
Re: Minor Prusa modification - 15 years ago
I really like the design. I thought the achilles heel of the pyramid stance was teh fact that increased size meant an exponential increase in footprint, but an "open box" style would allow for a single plane increase without having the base increase in size in all directions.by mikey - General
Re: Minor Prusa modification - 15 years ago
I pay my bills as a controls engineer and PLC programmer. I used to work in machine design for an industrial cooking equipment supplier. Every day was a struggle to improve within the bounds of what was financially reasonable. I see what is going on in the improvements of the machine as a similar evolution of steady improvements on design deficiencies and real world tests to determine feasibilityby mikey - General
Re: Minor Prusa modification - 15 years ago
Will this make it no longer a Prusa? Is it a PruLan now?by mikey - General
Re: Minor Prusa modification - 15 years ago
I'm on my phone right now and can't see anything.by mikey - General
Re: Minor Prusa modification - 15 years ago
@ lanthan - Really want to see this running in place. Having trouble vizualizing it.by mikey - General
Re: Minor Prusa modification - 15 years ago
Why not just have a printed piece at the rear of the motor that would screw into 2 of the holes in the back of the stepper? It wouldn't have to be very structurally large, it would simply be a piece tying the rear to the cross member for stability. BTW, love the printed spool concept.by mikey - General
Re: Is this forum dead? - 15 years ago
I'm still trying to get my machine finished and working, but it's a great sub forum idea. I'm hoping to try some of these once the printer runs on it's own.by mikey - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Re: Minor Prusa modification - 15 years ago
droftarts Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you remove the nut between motor mount and > bearing, you should be able to reverse the pulley > on the motor shaft, so the flange on the end of > the pulley holds the belt on, and the belt runs > closer to the motor housing rather than on the end > of the shaft. Enough, perhaps, to build yourself a &gby mikey - General
Re: Minor Prusa modification - 15 years ago
Nut removal doesn't solve the belt runoff issue due to a canted gear, as the runoff occurs after several rotational cycles, getting worse every rotation of the gear. The roller also affords me the opportunity to add a small belt tensioner if need be. I followed the assembly instructions to the letter, which was why I had the issue. Reversing the lower rod to under the frame would also require a uby mikey - General
Minor Prusa modification - 15 years ago
During my initail building of the frame I found this to be an issue: and belt runoff from a slightly canted gear when tightened into place: Y-axis extended: Y axis retracted: The runoff continues until the belt pops off the gearing. If you'll look carefully, you can see the gear tilted slightly differently in the 2 pictures. To avoid having the belting drag along the all-thread, I addedby mikey - General
Re: Botmill Axis 2.1 Kit - Help Mounting Heatbed MK1 on Mendel Platform - 15 years ago
Where did you find the pyrex plate at? And how did you get the holes drilled for the mounting posts?by mikey - General Mendel Topics
Extruder assembly - 15 years ago
Hi all. I got my Prusa parts, started assembly when home on weekends, and I'm nearly there. I'm now at the point where I attach the assembled extruder to the unit (Part 9, Step 17, Prusa Mendel Assembly Instructions, V3). Unfortunately, the extruder assembly instructions aren't there, just a "Bolt finished assembly here". Which leads me to 2 questions: 1: What are the recommended hot end/extrudeby mikey - General
Re: Reprap versions - 15 years ago
Neither am I Greg Frost Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > > Not sure about hardware details.by mikey - Reprappers
Re: Reprap versions - 15 years ago
Greg Frost Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > SD printing is already possible with the Sprinter > firmware on RAMPS. Got a link to the firmware and SD reader hookup? I've searched but not much luck. camiel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > mikey Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > &by mikey - Reprappers
Re: Reprap versions - 15 years ago
The sheer volume of information is daunting for a newcomer. I noticed the Orca is planned to print directly from an SD card. How far from reality is that??by mikey - Reprappers
Re: Noob building his first Prusa - 15 years ago
Thanks. I'm still reading through the nophead blogs. LOTS of reading to get up to speed. more than I'd bargained for anyway.by mikey - Reprappers
Noob building his first Prusa - 15 years ago
Hi all. I'm a controls engineer who last used an RP system in college over 10 years ago. I just dove in the pond and ordered a set of Prusa plastics, and I'm starting my build soon. I'm sure I'll be asking gobs of stupid questions, starting with these: When I create a 3D CAD drawing, what is the processs to get it into a format the RepRap uses, and what is the software/hardware chain? I see reby mikey - Reprappers