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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: secret to drilling 0.35mm nozzle hole - 12 years ago
It isn't particularly hard to drill nozzle holes by hand using a pin-vice - cheaper than a drill press too. Takes 10 - 15 mins to go through 2mm of brass, so no good if you want to mass produce - but fine for the odd one or two.by CeeThreeEs - General
Re: Help, mendel prusa stops half way every print !?! - 12 years ago
Are you using linux or windows? If on linux, type the following command into a terminal session to see if you are getting usb port resets due to emi: grep -i emi /var/log/syslog For example on my machine I have: Aug 2 19:07:28 laptop-ubuntu11 kernel: [23960.688148] hub 5-0:1.0: port 2 disabled by hub (EMI?), re-enabling...by CeeThreeEs - Reprappers
Re: Help! Occasional Incorrect interpretation of Gcodes - 12 years ago
Sounds very much like one of your end stops triggered during the move. I got a very similar effect when I enabled PID control of the heater - noise from the heater turning off and on was sometimes enough to trigger the end stop detection so that on a diagonal move the head would move just in x or y and then do the other component - making little triangles all over the place.by CeeThreeEs - General
Re: Odd first layer behaviours - 12 years ago
Does the object you are printing have its base at z=0? Have a look at the generated gcode and in particular the z values in it. You should see a bunch of them all the same for the raft (you don't say what your layer height is, but the raft will probably be at about that - depends on your other settings) then you should see a bunch with a slightly higher value for the first layer. The differenceby CeeThreeEs - Skeinforge
Re: Standard mendel Feed/Flow rate? - 12 years ago
I wouldn't have though nozzle size played much of a part. Isn't the max speed you can print at mainly governed by your layer thickness, your extrusion width, the power of the heater and the material being printed, with a decrease in layer thickness, decrease in extrusion width, an increase in heater power (e.g smaller resistor) and using PLA rather than ABS all allowing you to go faster.by CeeThreeEs - General
Re: Print stopping unexpectedly - 12 years ago
Ah - you are right. I've made the auto-reset-on-usb-connection feature switchable on my board. It is usually switched off and I only switch it back on when I need to download new firmware.by CeeThreeEs - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Print stopping unexpectedly - 12 years ago
I added debug into the sprinter linear_move() function. It read the state of each end stop while it was doing the move and built a string with a 1 for end activated and 0 for not activated and then printed it out if any of the end stops were activated. I didn't test with endstops unplugged, but, yes, it could still happen with them unplugged as it was just electical noise in my circuit which wasby CeeThreeEs - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Print stopping unexpectedly - 12 years ago
I was getting random resets - each of which I later found was matched with a usb disconnect due to EMI as reported in the ubuntu syslog. I didn't ever prove it but I think they were the result of glitches induced when the extruder heater switches off. When I enabled PID control of the heater (which makes the problem worse because it switches the heater much more frequently), the resets happened mby CeeThreeEs - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Keeps stopping mid print - 12 years ago
Do you get any errors reported in the log that repsnapper produces? Alternatively are you using ubuntu and getting usb resets due to EMI? To check the latter fire up a terminal window and run: grep EMI /var/log/syslogby CeeThreeEs - RepSnapper
Re: Random movements during printing - 12 years ago
An update to the above. As the arduino mega has 4 serial buffers, the above code change uses up 4k of the available 8 for the serial buffers - which probably isn't such a good idea. I ran out of space when I tried to use marlin with the above settings. I've now turned mine down a bit.by CeeThreeEs - RepSnapper
Re: Printing completely wirelessly - can it be done? (Has it already been done?) - 12 years ago
You can prevent the arduino from resetting when you connect your usb cable by putting a capacitor between gnd and the reset switch (as described here). Not sure whether this is feasible on a RAMPS board as I don't have one - I have built my RAMPS electronics on a solder-pad board so there is room to make such mods. I have it connected via a removable jumper. When the jumper is on, the cap is connby CeeThreeEs - RAMPS Electronics
Re: What's going on here? - 12 years ago
I had something like that at one point but not quite as extreme. Think my issue was a loose x axis - the bushings on the z axis had worn down a bit and that was allowing the x axis to move to and fro a bit on some moves.by CeeThreeEs - Skeinforge
Re: Spike suppression - 12 years ago
Thanks for all the suggestions. Turns out I lied and the TVS diode did do the trick - I just failed to connect it up right. All working much better now - spikes are much reduced so hopefully no more spurious end-stop activations mid-print.by CeeThreeEs - Controllers
Re: Spike suppression - 12 years ago
I've now tried one of those and it didn't make any difference. Maybe I chose the wrong one. What I got was P6KE16CA (breakdown voltage min:14.3, max:15.8).by CeeThreeEs - Controllers
Re: Advice on which printer to build - Prusa, Sumpod or Mosaic 3D? - 12 years ago
I've just started using marlin and I've got it printing from an sd card. Don't think I had to do anything special to get it to work. I'm using a mega based board mind you - which has 8k sram. I had a quick look at the memory map of the firmware file and if I'm interpreting it correctly it indicated that with SD enabled it uses a bit over 4k - so poss there isn't room on a Sanguinololu.by CeeThreeEs - General
Spike suppression - 12 years ago
My electronics is based on RAMPS but put together on a pad board using point to point wiring and some solder traces (connecting the pads). Recently, I've been experimenting with PID heater control in Sprinter. However, the rapid switching of the heater that results put very large spikes into my electronics which can give rise to spurious end stop activations - which makes for interesting prints.by CeeThreeEs - Controllers
Re: Strange behavior, printing a bit random... - 12 years ago
I know you say it is nowhere near your endstops, but is that not the effect you would get if the x endstop was being triggered momentarily during a negative x move? You could try it out by triggering the endstop manually while it was printing.by CeeThreeEs - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: My recent Y Axis issue, detail picture for scrutiny, help please. - 13 years ago
I got a similar effect when the bushings on the x carriage wore down a bit and the x carriage was lifting slightly when moving in one direction and not in the other.by CeeThreeEs - General
Re: PLA Not Sticking to Blue Tape - 13 years ago
If you are using skeinforge, the first layer is printed at 1/2 your layer thickness. If you have raft enabled and have it set to not print out a raft (base layers = 0 & interface layers = 0) then the first layer is at: (operating nozzle lift over layer thickness + 0.5) * layer thickness So if layer thickness is 0.4mm and operating nozzle lift over layer thickness is 1.0 the first layer is pby CeeThreeEs - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Re: Heated bed & Glass - 13 years ago
I was planning on using kapton (which I have) or PET (which I don't at the moment) on top of the glass. Currently I'm using kapton on the aluminium bed and the print outline keeps peeling off in the corners and ruining the print. I think part of the issue is that the aluminium isn't quite flat so some parts of the outline are not as squished into the surface as others. I'll keep trying and maybeby CeeThreeEs - General
Heated bed & Glass - 13 years ago
I've built a nichrome wire/aluminium sheet heated bed which I'm using to print ABS on with the bed running at 120 to 125 C (which is about as hot as it gets). I was wondering whether to top it off with a glass sheet to make sure it is perfectly flat. To those of you using glass on heated beds, what sort of glass do you use, of what thickness, have any of you had any problems with cracking / breaby CeeThreeEs - General
Random movements during printing - 13 years ago
Hi, As this is my first post, first a quick intro: I'm Phil Le Sueur, from Marple, UK and a newcomer to the reprap scene (since March). I've pretty much completed my mendel prusa build and it has just started to produce reasonable quality prints (small things only so far). In terms of software / electronics / firmware I'm using: skeinforge version 41 repsnapper - timschmidt/repsnappeby CeeThreeEs - RepSnapper