Hi Guys, I need help testing new prototype board. It's a 32bit upgrade for RAMPS. I am looking for someone with the following. - Good knowledge of configuring 3D printers/firmware and basic electronics. Might need some soldering work. - Working printer with RAMPS v1.4 - Has experience with Smoothieware - Has either a RRD GLCD, Viki2 LCD or other SPI displays. I only have a few prototype boardby royco - RAMPS Electronics
Hi Dala.Horse Roy here @Panucatt. Sorry that this taken so long to fix. I did send an inquiry to DHL but being considered a remote delivery location by DHL, its taking them a while to locate the package(or declare it lost) since a couple of local mail couriers were involved too i believe. Its my fault though that I have not followed up with them. At any rate, PM me or email me at roy @ panucattby royco - General
I got what your saying, I'll get the latest files out there. Like the X1 I will be posting Diptrace and PDF files. I dont know how to use Eagle or other schematic design program so it would be a real stretch for me converting or recreating at this time. But I do have to clean it up, some parts dont have values or worse incorrect ones. Production BOMs are built on a separate spreadsheet. So a lotby royco - Controllers
@Zangetsu - To measure the resistance of the beds, you have to account the resistance of the leads since the resistance you are measuring is pretty low for a regular voltmeter. Short your leads and record the resistance, then subtract it to the reading you are getting from the bed. Thats your approximate resistance. As for your slow heating problem, you could bump up your PS output to around 14Vby royco - Reprappers
@ Noobman - it is open source, but I do need to spend time cleaning up the schematic/PCB files so it can be easily understood and actually posting it. I do send them out when someone asks for it in its current messed up state. I will update the web page to include those files( and wiki page too). The Azteeg X1 files were posted pretty quickly since thats the only project I have going a that time.by royco - Controllers
Hi Guys, Sorry for coming in late in the game. Just returned from a 2 week business trip in Asia. Thanks for those trying to get firmware working for Viki LCD. Im almost finished with the instructions but here some quick tips to get it working. For SD on the X3 I posted an updated wiring diagram for the X3, it included pin outs for the ICSP header and the 2 pins next to it which can be used fby royco - For Sale
@ybm, The shipping stepper driver is the SD8825 which is based on the Ti DRV8825 chip. Im almost out of the X3, and have a lot of the drivers. Thanksby royco - For Sale
@ Wired1 - I think I shipped yours late last week. I'll resend you the tracking number. @ FlOyd - The Viki shipping coincided with the X3, heatbeds and stepper drivers being is stock. It was an enormous task getting those out as fast as I can. Testing took the most time. Im almost towards the end of the Viki LCD and back order list. 8 hours of sleep is in sight :-) Thanks Royby royco - For Sale
Yeah It has much more stuff. I think I sent you the version with 2 thermocouple inputs ( still needs a bit of firmware tweak right now). Im a bit slow in testing/shipping out the vikis from kickstarter but its picking up.by royco - For Sale
Wired1 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How are the Viki LCD panels coming along Roy? The Chinese Spring festival is messing up schedules, but not too bad as its only 1 week delay for the ViKi. The Helios 200 wasn't so lucky tho, they could not finish it before the factory shuts downby royco - For Sale
Hi Atomhax. You can find the wiring diagram here. Azteeg X3 page I usually use 100k epcos thermistors, altho most 100k thermistors will work. Power supply is not included. Thanksby royco - For Sale
The Allegro A4989 chip would allow you to do this. A4989by royco - Controllers
Hi Nicolaz, You also have to make the buzzer pin active in pins.h as it is only called when the Ultra_LCD/Newpanel is defined. Move this out of the Ultra_LCD definition, say place it next to LED_PIN like below. #define LED_PIN 13 #define BEEPER 33 This would have limited use in its current form without an LCD but you can create your own beep instances in marlin.by royco - RAMPS Electronics
Annirak Wrote: > A more important point, however, is that > heatsinking of exposed pad QFN packages should > NEVER be done on top of the package. Exactly! (see attached) 3M thermal tape works but prefer thermal glue. Hardens in about 4 hours.by royco - Controllers
Here's an awesome tutorial to get bluetooth working with your 3D printer. While it is done on an Azteeg X3, it will work with most controllers that has the TX and RX pins exposed. http://bukobot.com/make-your-bukobot-wirelessby royco - General
As Wired1 mentioned the bed can draw around 11-12 amps when cold and if you are using a PC power supply it may not have enough power on the 12v line and drop the voltage. Also check that you have a good sized wire going into the controller. I would suggest #12-14 AWG for longer than 12inches of wire. If you are thinking of getting a new power supply, get a dedicated 12v switching power supply 20-by royco - For Sale
Replace files on your xloader folder with these. Did you complied Lincomatics GRBL and used Makefile Sanguinololu?by royco - Sanguino(lolu)
If the test code will run the motors fine then there's something amiss with how gcode sender communicates with the board. I tried an X1 and universal gcode sender and it does not work all the time. If I use the G1 CNC controller with GRBL the Gcode sender works perfectly. Do you want to try running GRBL on your X1 instead? I got it running on one using Lincomatics fork of GRBL(ver 0.7) that suppby royco - Sanguino(lolu)
@wired! thanks for your inputs. Make sure your power supply is up to snuff for the heatbed. It might be dropping the voltage when the bed turns on. This could mess up the power supply on the board, also noise from the power supply at this load could be interrupting the serial communication. Check that your USB cable does not criss cross with the power lines of the power supply, a USB cable with fby royco - For Sale
What do you mean having the stepper controller backwards? Reversing the drivers will definitely kill it. I tried the gcode sender and it doesnt seem to work all the time and some variations in steps will not work until you send it the other direction. Have you tried using pronterface to send the gcodes?by royco - Sanguino(lolu)
@LordFrz I'll try to replicate what your getting. In the mean time can you check what current setting you have on the stepper drivers? The test firmware tells you wiring and installation is aok, but having a low current setting with an F15000 will just make the motor whine and not move.by royco - Sanguino(lolu)
That really looks awesome! Can I use that pic on my website?( and wiki page) Thanks Royby royco - For Sale
Hi Guys, I just added the user guide for the helios Heated bed on the web page. Helios User guide Helios Heated Bed webpageby royco - For Sale
Yeah, your diagram wont work with that. The "M" on the model number corresponds to a NO(normally open) relay contact at pins 4 and 5. So you basically need a separate power supply say like +5v going to your SSR, GND goes to 4 and 5 goes to the other SSR pin. Look at the rating of the contact on the manual link below and maybe you can just use the built-in relay contact instead of your SSR. Heresby royco - General
What's the exact model of your C100? The one that I have is for driving an SSR and uses pin 4 and 5, there are different models with different drive output configurations. make sure you are using the correct one.by royco - General
The 12-24v booster power supply is used to power the motors with 24v but leave the bed and hotend at 12 v without using an external supply. I only made a limited run of these and dont have some right now. If you need the same function at a higher current for your nema23s you can use an external 24v power supply and use the secondary power input for the motors. I am working on the documentation foby royco - For Sale
@shocker you can use the expansion pins defined on the wiring diagram then change it on pin.h on marlin or you can wait for this.. @wired1 yours is coming. Thanks for waiting.by royco - For Sale
@Ian You're good with the X1, The connector I use on it is rated for 18Amps per pin. @digikey But like others have mentioned, keep a good contact with the wire, tug it from time to time to check if it has loosened. Thanks.by royco - General
Hi Just adding info on the Azteeg X3, it does accept pololu style drivers including the one I developed. unfortunately the drivers are only available as a bundle right now and produced in limited quantities. That would change tho in the coming days. The boost power supply shield is experimental (but works aok) and again in limited quantities only. You can configure several add-ons for the X3 coby royco - Controllers