Try to raise your hotend end temperature a bit too for the first layer, 180 should be safe. Make sure it is degreased really well, I have prints coming off when the glass gets slightly smudged with fingerprints when printing pla. Put some tape on the bed if all else fails.. Groeten, Wauterby Wauter - Reprappers
I've been using oil filters for cooking hoods to insulate the bottom of the heated bed for a while now. They are to be used above the cooker, so should be able to handle a bit of heat. The filters I got indicate they might be used as padding on the ironboard too. I did some very basic testing on it. When putting a soldering iron to it (~230?) the fibers will melt and a a big hole will appear. Whby Wauter - Reprappers
Carignan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have no problem with tall objects with heat bed > at 110°C. > I wait for the heat bed to be at around 90°C > before applying the coating. > > Then I apply the sugar coating with a brush and I > scrub gently until the coating feels dry and not > sticky. That leave the surface a little white. >by Wauter - Reprappers
Hi Print, Not sure if you got your issue fixed already. I came across this topic while configuring marlin myself. I got it running and printing my first calibration object now. Marlin looks pretty solid. These are my end stop settings. I use optical endstops, active high. Only have endstops on the mininum end of my axis. Hope this helps.. Cheers, Wauter //=====================================by Wauter - Reprappers
Have already mounted it with the heater at the bottom, but might try to mount it upside down later.by Wauter - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How do you keep it flat? The Prusa PCB bed rises > in the middle when it gets hot. I've tested the heated bed for the durbee yesterday, which is actually bigger than the one for the portabee and it is square, but i understand the principle is the same. Here are the results: Mounted and levelled the bed on 4 screws anby Wauter - General
richrap Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > nophead Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Where do you buy your mirror glass from? > > The best ones I have used and now have a stock of > are from Ikea, they are called SORLI and are in a > pack of 4 for about £5 > They have nice rounded corners and are 4mby Wauter - General
Andrew Diehl Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > An acetone vapor bath works absolute wonders for > ABS. PLA, not so much. How does that work? Could you elaborate? Wauterby Wauter - General
Using acceleration will help as well.by Wauter - General
Beekeeper Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Although you can purchase the PID controller on > ebay for less, The PID temp control alone retails > for MORE than $250 by itself. How about making a PID temp control using a thermistor (or thermocouple if you wish), a microcontroller and a transistor/triac. Just like its done in.. euhm.. reprap printers?by Wauter - General
I printed PLA to unheated glass for a while while i was figuring out what to do for a heated bed. It's not a lot of fun, but you can manage if you want to. Degrease the glass really well before printing. I used rubbing alcohol for that. Print smaller objects. Big ones will warp and get pulled off. I used bluetack sometimes to secure an object if it started moving during printing. messy. I starby Wauter - General
I bought one of these PCB's yesterday. It looks roughly double the thickness of the PCB heated beds I saw before and it indeed has a copper mesh pattern on the top instead of solid copper. Will do some tests on it soon and post my findings here. btw, have seen the portabee in action and must say that I am pretty impressed. When I saw the pictures on the website, I thought stability might be an iby Wauter - General
Looks good! The carriage looks very interesting.. working on a vertical x axis on my printer and that might be jsut what I need. Where can I find the stl/ openscad files? Cheers, Wauterby Wauter - Singapore RUG
Hi guys, For me it is also very difficult to meet up on week days, but I thought I'd drop a line anyway to share my experiences so far. I've bought the reprap mendel prusa printed parts, and sourced vitamins and electronics and assembled it about 2-3 months ago. I made the hotend myself. Running sprinter firmware on the arduino mega 2560 board. Had a lot of fun tweaking it to improve usability aby Wauter - Singapore RUG
First of all, hi everyone. I'm pretty new here, have been reading a lot here and this is one of my first posts. I have ordered/found almost all of the parts required to build a prusa mendel and am waiting for everything to arrive. The hot end I will be making myself. I've been working on a different method to mount the heater & barrel to each other and to the extruder, by means of a aluminby Wauter - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Hi Mike, Right now, im just plowing through the wiki and as much documentation as possible, to get an idea of where i want to start. I will probably go for a complete unsoldered Ramps DIY kit from ultimachine, and i saw a nice set of plastic parts for the prusa and wade's extruder, including bearings, linear bearings and timings belt on ebay, which should make assembly really straight forward.by Wauter - Singapore RUG
Hi All, I'm about to get building a reprap, and am interested in joining the meet up group to exchange experiences and maybe get some hints. I've had my eye on the reprap project since darwin and finally I have some time to start building one. I have some quick questions, that maybe someone can help me with? Does anyone know a source for PEEK, PTFE, heat insulation tape or ceramics paste/cemenby Wauter - Singapore RUG
Hi geezee, I'm also looking at building a reprap and currently doing my homework. What have you been able to come up with so far? I will probably buy the mechanical parts for prusa and extruder online, with the bearings, belt and springs included, as i have very limited access to tools at the moment and it is the easiest path to have a working printer. Which is very valuable to me, as it shoulby Wauter - Singapore RUG