Stratasys parts finishing. The printed support structure is to die for. Overall a very nice video.by Pazu - General
Nice to finally see this. I seem to recall that you draw inspiration from the Emaker hotend, which was very good. I think you've taken the idea to greater heights.by Pazu - General
Think I mentioned this before. I'm running a modified ORD Bot Software-wise, Marlin and Pronterfaceby Pazu - Singapore RUG
He is talking about fan on the hotend, not fan blowing on the print usually mounted on the hot end. That's the unique design of the emaker/reprappro printers. The fan limits the heat travelling up the hotend to the stainless steel barrel and below. This makes the hotzone very small which is a good thing.by Pazu - General
@crispy1, quite right you are. I found the some info here Anyway, Synchromesh is interesting enough for me to give it a try.by Pazu - General
crispy1 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How about Synchromesh? > > > I kinda want to try them out in my next printer > project. > > According to an applications engineer at SDP-SI, > synchromesh is not a good choice for our > application because it is not anit-backlash like > GT2 belts are. > > If you want more details youby Pazu - General
How about Synchromesh? I kinda want to try them out in my next printer project.by Pazu - General
Are you using a bowden setup? Is that ABS or PLA? Extrusion temp?by Pazu - Slic3r
I'm all for doing it for fun. Which is what I'm mostly doing now. Just intrigued by your topic as you seem to want to do serious R&D for seriously difficult to solve issues. I thought you had some plans or expertise or tons of money. I think to make any discussion useful, you'd probably need to read up more first? Or maybe have an agenda. Else it'd be a waste of time. Just guys talking coby Pazu - Singapore RUG
OK, do you mind sharing your background? I'm a software engineer but pretty deft with mechanical and electronics stuff. SLS and multi-material printers are totally different in technology and discipline. I don't know if you have any hands on experience with those? Multi-material printing involves a lot more chemistry than anything else. SLS, I presume laser control and getting the right powderby Pazu - Singapore RUG
Hi, You looking at trying to do SLS for metal? AFAIK, there are already commercial machines doing this. I'm from SG and doing some of my own 3D printer design (FDM and DLP based). Admittedly just for fun. How are you looking this R&D project? For large commercial prints? Hobbyist?by Pazu - Singapore RUG
Oh its actually red filament with a short PTFE tube that was part of the old bowden setup. Won't work if it's uncontrained as you had probably guessed. But really it could have just been any form of filament holder.by Pazu - General
Emmanuel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > On my eMaker Huxley I had only two hotend problem > in a year and I use it a lot (not 24/7 but it's > still my main production machine and it printed > most of the 600 parts of the 30 Foldarap I'm > making). The first time the tip of pulling back > the filament after letting it cool down a little > wasby Pazu - General
Actually you can ignore bob too right? If you feel so right about your theory. I think he feel the need to respond because this is a public forum where people come to for information. Sending incorrect information is worse than sending no information at all. I seriously don't get all the prusa hype. They all looked like copied designs to me.by Pazu - General
Funny, I have the original emaker huxley and the hot end does not have a ptfe inserted. I dunno why they decided to change that cos IMHO, that they had an excellent design that is extremely robust. I once had a failed print that stopped for unknown reasons and the hot end was frozen at 230C for 8hours leaving the ABS completely charred. All I had to do was to restart up the machine and manuallyby Pazu - General
I hardly think popularity is a measure of how good something is. But I disgress. I believe you can find detailed documentation of the hot end in their google docs. I believe Dr. Bowyer who co-owns Reprappro is a firm believer of open-source. The PTFE for the collar is just part of the bowden setup. I don't think that adds any complexity to the design. I've never use heater cartridges but I'm sby Pazu - General
Emaker's hotend, which is excellent, is also all metal. Don't quite see the hype of this.by Pazu - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > And to answer the other question. If you can't see > the warping I do not know how to show it to you. > Some people have an ability to see things > spatially that other can not. Its what gives > artisans the ability to make things by hand that > you would swear are machine built. I presume the attached picby Pazu - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Apparently they think there customers are stupid > and will believe anything that is written. > > In this blog post > > -video-and-some-cool-makerware-specs/ they claim > that the object takes up the entire build area and > only takes 24 hours to print and it states that > nothing will take longeby Pazu - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- Have a look at the warping on > the big white blocks in the Replicator 2 page, the > side facing away from us and hidden behind the > ruler is so warped it could be used to hold > bananas. I fail to see where that it's warped like you said. Honestly why the hatred? It's a good enough printer for people willing toby Pazu - General
This is really very nice work. The 'toothpaste' extruded material is very interesting. Love the psychedelic prints!by Pazu - General
What sort of motor couplers are those?! Very interested.by Pazu - General
Just like to report back here that I'm finally getting prints to stay on the bed. I used nophead's method but with my bed at 130C for first layer and 100C after. This seems to be the key. Also, I use moderately thick ABS juice applied on a cold bed. It's still translucent when dried on the bed but you can definitely tell the color of the juice. Thanks for all the help.by Pazu - Reprappers
Thanks for the response. I always thought that the lower one can extrude at, the better? Also, does the extrusion temperature affects bed adhesion? I would think bed temp is more critical. Also, at 200C my bridging is pretty nice and I'm afraid going higher can make my prints go bad.by Pazu - Reprappers
I'm trying this ABS juice method but having mixed result. So far, I'm having the best adhesion with thin juice applied on a cold bed before heating to 90C and printing. It's quite good when the print starts but I can see slight lifting as the print proceeds and gooey strings as the edge lifts. My ABS extrusion is at 200C. I need help. Should I go even higher temp for the bed? I tried 110 but itby Pazu - Reprappers
Do you have a website already? Looking very interesting.by Pazu - General
@snaka I'm very intrigued by this ABS juice method of yours. Since you mentioned that it sticks so well, have you tried it with unheated bed? Just your regular glass without the heat turned on.by Pazu - Reprappers
You need to turn on Dimensions in skeinforge for it to output extruder information. Good luck!by Pazu - Singapore RUG
Thanks again for this. Looking forward to Part 2 and 3. It would be especially helpful if you can point out the bits there it can translate to actual settings used in Skeinforge. You see, I'm a eMaker Huxley owner and didn't go thru the same (hard) calibration like most people here. Things like print speed baffles me.by Pazu - Slic3r
Nice to see so many new people diving into reprapping in SG. The longboat prusa looks like a well-sorted kit. Wish it uses 1.75mm filament though. But if I'm to buy a new reprap kit now, I'll most likely go for the Ultimaker. See the things it can print in Thingiverse! :Oby Pazu - Singapore RUG