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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: What kind electornics in CNC Mill - 11 years ago
Here is rundown of my experience, so far, with each firmware: GRBL: works really well except for bumps in acceleration algorithm which I'm afraid may cause lost steps (this was supposed to be fixed in the latest beta, but it seems to have a simalar but different problem). Supports very fast step rate, up to 30,000 Hz. GRBL would be optimal as it's made for a CNC but it seems the 3d printer firmwby miro87043 - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Re: were will i find info - 11 years ago
I'm sure about torque, but for RPM and feed rate you need to calculate chip load. See here:by miro87043 - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Re: What kind electornics in CNC Mill - 11 years ago
Any work on your CNC mill? I started a CNC router, seen here: For electronics I'm using an arduino, but I'm experimenting with firmwares still. I've tried GRBL on an UNO and Repetier, Marlin, Teacup on a mega (like a ramps 1.4, but the sheild is not needed because I used larger drivers and I don't need the mosfets). So far, I've had the most success with Repetier.by miro87043 - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Re: Repetier for CNC - 11 years ago
Traumflug, I tried your new accel_clock branch and did not achieve an higher steps/second. I maxed out at just over 12,000 steps per second before the firmware locked up. With my settings shown in my previous post this limits my speed to under 100 mm/s or 6000 mm/min.by miro87043 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: Repetier for CNC - 11 years ago
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Have you tried moving X, Y and Z at the same time? > There's a comment in the Repetier source code > which says it can't do such things. I guess this > firmware is pretty thightly coupled to the layered > printing process (and doing well so). > > If you want to speed up Teacup, make sure you set >by miro87043 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Repetier or Teacup for CNC - 11 years ago
Hi, I'm experimenting with using Repetier for my 3 axis CNC router I built. I've chose Repetier because it allows for the fastest and smoothest speeds of all the G code interpreting Arduino firmwares I've tried (GRBL, Teacup, Marlin). I have 2 questions though: CNC routers need a much slower acceleration than 3D printers since they have much greater mass to move. Obviously I can just adjustby miro87043 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: end stops - 11 years ago
I prefer mechanical end stops. I've tried opti ends, but I find them a hasle. Flags get bumped, additional electronics needed and they haven't been any more accurate for me (which I believe is why they're supposed to be better). They're cheaper too.by miro87043 - General
Re: PCB Heatbed not getting hot enough - 11 years ago
I've heard the PCB heat beds can be inconsistent and that has been my experience. Personally I've never had one that would heat to 110 c on 12v. However I haven't checked voltage under load so it's possible my psu is not suppling 12v like Gibbedy shared. On my printers I run higher voltage to my heat bed. They both use RAMPS 1.4 which supports up to 35v if the 1N4004 diode is not used. I use aby miro87043 - General
Re: Different input voltage on RAMPS 1.4 - 12 years ago
I can confirm this works. Make sure there's a heatsink on the MOSFET and your 24v supply can provide enough current. Like you said the input labeled 11amp is for the heat. bed. I've been running my prusa with 15v to the steppers and 24v to the heabed (my Mk2 bed won't reach 110 c otherwise) with RAMPS 1.4 for the last 6 months without any problems.by miro87043 - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Generation 7 Spring Festival - 12 years ago
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A Gen6 doesn't even have spare connectors? Sorry, > I didn't look into that. > > As I don't own a Gen6 I can offer you to solve > this, if you send me yours. Including shipping > time, this should take a week. I should first let you know that my knowledge of reprap electronics is limited to there basicby miro87043 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: Generation 7 Spring Festival - 12 years ago
Traumflaug Your SevenSwitch looks like just what I need. I have a gen6 board running one of my printers and need heat bed control. Could you direct me in how to wire a SevenSwitch to my Gen6. There does not seem to be any easy acsess to additonal pins on it. Thanks!by miro87043 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: power supply - 12 years ago
Elidor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > HI > > > i got a new pc power supply a ATX 2 450 watt > > the one before 350 watts works great ' im trying > to heat the bed faster . =) What kind of heat be do you have? 350 watts should be plenty. If your looking to heat your bed faster you'll need to increase voltage. PCB heatbeds can safely haveby miro87043 - General
Re: Calculating amp usage on >12v setup - 12 years ago
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you increase the supply voltage to the stepper > drivers the current will go down. So at 24V the > supply current will be about half as much. That is > because they are constant current drives so the > power in the motor stays the same and so the > supply power stays roughly the same. I like this answerby miro87043 - General
Calculating amp usage on >12v setup - 12 years ago
I'll start with the question then add my back story. Is there an easy way to calculate maximum amp draw for 5 steppers and a j-head while printing at various voltages? With steppers at the same pot settings does amps x volts = watts directly apply? i.e. if 5 amps at 12v is sufficient to power 5 steppers and my j-head, would I need 10 amps at 24v? I've recently started using >12v to supply myby miro87043 - General
Re: Weird - 12 years ago
I've been curious about how to properly set a pot. I just use trial and error. I'll have to try that. Thanks!by miro87043 - General
Re: Weird - 12 years ago
yngndrw Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > miro87043 Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Is it realy a bad idea to adjust pots while the > > machine is on? I do that regularly while > setting > > up my printers. What's the worst that could > happen > > if doing this? > > It jumps as youby miro87043 - General
Re: Heated bed thermistor - 12 years ago
I've used fire cement which is similar to muffler cement. It worked for a while but it didn't bond very well and came off after a couple weeks. I now just put it under my kapton. If you have glass over heat bed I would put the thermistor on the glass with some kapton to get an acurate temp of what the print will be subject to.by miro87043 - General
Re: Problems With Z wobble? - 12 years ago
I had some Z wobble myself. I used this solution: Z wobble gone.by miro87043 - General
Re: Weird - 12 years ago
Is it realy a bad idea to adjust pots while the machine is on? I do that regularly while setting up my printers. What's the worst that could happen if doing this?by miro87043 - General
Homing Y axis with Marlin on Gen 6 (solved) - 12 years ago
Hello, My problem: I built a new prusa using Gen 6 electronics with optos and Marlin Firmware. I've got homing working on the X and Z axis but not my Y axis. When sending M119, Y does not reflect any change; it always shows "y_min:L" wether theres a flag in it or not. I tried switching optos, with no change. I also tried another Gen 6 board with no change. I'm stumped! Any advice on what to tryby miro87043 - General
Re: Repetier PID settings and thermistor tables - 12 years ago
repetier Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'am extruding PLA with 170°C but I know the > sensor is placed at a bad place returning much > lower values then inside the extruder. A fan may > make it even worse. That's what I'm thinking. It doesn't concern me to much. The difficult part was not being able to reach set temp, but you helped me solve that!by miro87043 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: Repetier PID settings and thermistor tables - 12 years ago
Thanks! I changed to: #define EXT0_PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 220 This works and I got my thermistor table to work with your advice, but I'm still extruding PLA at 150. I think this is a combination of thermistor variability and needing more insulation on my hotend given the fan blowing at it. I'll do some more messing around...by miro87043 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: Heat bed with Gen 6 electronics. Pre-deluxe - 12 years ago
These would certainly do the trick but I'm looking for a cheaper easier solution as I'll be setting up 6 machines on a budget. After some tests with the heat beds I have, MK1 from lulzbot.com, they all seem to max out between 70 and 85 on 12V. I'm no sure if 85 is to hot for PLA but I know 70 will work, so I may just hook them straight to 12V and go. If 85 is to hot I was thinking of adding a resby miro87043 - General
Repetier PID settings and thermistor tables - 12 years ago
Pertinent information: I'm using Repetier firmware, gen 7 electronics, makergear hotend, with honeywell 100k thermistor. 1: I have not been able to successfully add the thermistor table from the wiki to my firmware. I can upload firmware with the needed thermistor table but I get T:0 in pronterface. In the firmware, I added the table to #define USER_THERMISTORTABLE1 I set #define EXT0_TEMPSENSORby miro87043 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Heat bed with Gen 6 electronics. Pre-deluxe - 12 years ago
Hello! Does anybody know if there is any way to add support for a heated bed on Gen 6 electronics? If not, is there an easy way to control heated bed without using the printers electronics. I'm using MK1 Heat bed for Prusa and would like it between 50-70c for PLA. Thanks!!!!!!by miro87043 - General
Heat bed with Gen6 pre-deluxe - 12 years ago
Hello! Does anybody know if there is any way to add support for a heated bed on Gen 6 electronics? If not, is there an easy way to control heated bed without using the printers electronics. I'm using MK1 Heat bed for Prusa and would like it between 50-70c for PLA. Thanks!!!!!!by miro87043 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Re: What's your toolchain? - 12 years ago
I've got: Google sketchup with stl plugin ->netfabb cloud -> Slic3r ->Pronterface ->Marlin This has been working well for me. I'm curious to see how repetier stacks up. I'll be trying it on my new printer I'm building that has gen7 electronics. It's curious to me why all the different stl plugins and exporters don't make a manifold model, but they don't.by miro87043 - General
Re: Switching to Marlin - 12 years ago
Here's my older version of Marlin. I don't have the original and I'm not sure when it was downloaded, so it's configured for my machine and I removed SD support because I could not get it to compile with it. You should just have to change your steps per mm and possibly disable pullup resistors for your optos, but I'm not sure about that. Everything should be the same for our 2 machines. Good lucby miro87043 - General
Re: Switching to Marlin - 12 years ago
I've been running Marlin for a few months and the quality improvment over spinter is worth the effort. For some of the less obvious settings I did trial by error. For the most part I didn't mess with any settings I didn't understand. As for PID settings: I'd leave it enabled as it does a better job of keeping your hot end temp where it needs to be. I would try the 3 available configurations andby miro87043 - General
Re: Gen 7, Repetier, Pronterface, power supply not turning on (solved) - 12 years ago
No load, was the problem. I plugged a fan in and it turned on! Thanks a million!!by miro87043 - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future