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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: should I make WhiteAnt CNC. - 11 years ago
wow, sorry but I want to help you improve your English. "WhiteAnt CNC is a type of Reprap. It is cheap because it is made from plywood. If you have made a WhiteAnt, can you give me an idea?" Well, I've not made a WhiteAnt, but I've made 3 Prusa Mendels. Now I'm planning to build a Mendel90 because it seems to be very simple and rigid. The problem I have now with my Prusa is the flex happening wby ahbtsang - General
Re: Remove heater block thermistor - 11 years ago
thanks. does exhaust putty conduct electricity? Is there anywhere I can just get a tiny amount? or what other materials will be good for this purpose?by ahbtsang - General
Re: Remove heater block thermistor - 11 years ago
Thanks, that means I need to replace the block (brass block + resistor + thermistor)? Right now, both the thermistor legs came off and leaving just the glass bead inside the brass block with a bit of fire cement. I am thinking whether it is possible to clear it out, otherwise I would just buy a thermistor and drill a hole next to it.by ahbtsang - General
Remove heater block thermistor - 11 years ago
What would be the best way to remove the thermistor which is stuck inside the brass heater block? The 2 connectors from the thermistor both came off and it is impossible to weld them back because they are just too small...by ahbtsang - General
Marlin + Slic3r.. Last few paths not printed - 11 years ago
Hi, I recently upgraded to the latest Marlin.. 1.0 RC2 i guess... but I'm having problem with the print. No matter what model I use, I sliced using Slic3r and printed using Repetier. In the gcode preview, everything looked fine, but in the actual printing, there is always a few lines not printed on the very last layer. Does anyone here know what's going on? I'm sure it has nothing to do with Sby ahbtsang - General
Re: Inkjet UV resin printer?? - 11 years ago
yes, I suppose the printhead has to be piezo electric but we can get our hands on one of these for 400-500pounds (although this is a lot of money). If solvent based printers use UV cure ink, that means there is such thing available on the market. In addition, 3rd party ink manufacturers do produce UV inks in large quantities, I wonder how much differences are there between UV cure resin and UV cuby ahbtsang - General
Inkjet UV resin printer?? - 11 years ago
hi all, I have an idea, not sure if anyone has mentioned this before. Having know that solvent based printers and flatbed printers uses UV ink that cures under UV to print on any materials, has anyone thought of this to be used on 3D printing? I'm aware that some high end 3d printers uses this sort of technology so resin cures as the printhead travels and sprays resin and can create amazing quaby ahbtsang - General
Re: attach a fan - 11 years ago
I would just hack it and connect to a pair of wires to your psu and run full time. But for my RAMPS setup, I connect to the spare MOSFET terminals.by ahbtsang - General
Tips for building a Large printer - 11 years ago
Hi all, To start, I built myself a standard Prusa 1/2 year ago and I loved it, it's been working like a champ ever since. Now I am planning to build a larger printer based on the fact that I print architectural models and the height that Prusa can achieve does not satisfy my need. also I would like to design my own furniture and print objects much larger (well.. not as big as a table!) I am plaby ahbtsang - General
Re: Bed Temp OK, but Heater Temp at 278C?... - 11 years ago
well, that time I was using RAMPS 1.3 and I knew I did a bad job soldering... I figured out that at some points the connectors was crossing hence getting this result. Now I upgraded to RAMPS 1.4and everything works amazing!by ahbtsang - General
Re: gcode and print speed? - 12 years ago
maybe you've set the max steprate too slow in your firmware.. look up config.hby ahbtsang - General
Re: New Ideas to keep the Print Bed level - 12 years ago
how often you need to re-level? I only need to do mine after making changes to the hardware.. which is once every.... 2 months? This is the setup I have for my bed: with this setup, I can get a very even level at 4 corners and almost anywhere on the bed.by ahbtsang - General
Re: Quality Improvement - Longboat Prusa - 12 years ago
i am using marlin and i found out that if i tighten my belts too much, that can also happenby ahbtsang - General
Re: Switching from PLA to ABS - 12 years ago
The reason I want to print ABS is only because of my extruder heating problem.. to be honest, I don't want to spend so much time again by trial and error since I can achieve decent PLA printing quality now.. guys, what other convincing reasons that I should be printing ABS, apart from being able to withstand heat?? thanks.by ahbtsang - General
Re: Switching from PLA to ABS - 12 years ago
thanks guys for your useful info. I made my own heated bed using nichrome wires.. 50ohms/m and I have 10-11 wires running in parallel. With the underside, I am using tin foil in oven bag and a piece of thin wood at the bottom. As far as temp difference, the top is about 70C and bottom about 50C... i am thinking of making another parallel circuit of nichrome wires which is connected in series toby ahbtsang - General
Switching from PLA to ABS - 12 years ago
Hi all, My extruder was made with ABS, it has been working perfectly for the last few months. I always print in PLA, and I tried printing a wade accessible extuder with it. Sadly... probably my hotend was too hot, the heat from the PEEK deformed the joint where it touched the extruder... so now.. I am thinking of switching to ABS for printing extruder. I have a few questions... My heated bed cby ahbtsang - General
Re: 2D raprep - 12 years ago
you may want to check out this open project - DIYLILCNCby ahbtsang - General
Re: BakeLite - 12 years ago
just another idea, bike cable housing also have teflon lining inside. However, as far as I know, the cables are only 1.Xmm in internal diameter, also not sure what is the thermal performance of the housing. However, they are incredibly strong as the housing is wrapped with steel strands!by ahbtsang - General
Re: Z axis movement - 12 years ago
hi nick, sorry that I forgot to reply your post. glad that you solved the problem. also make sure your x and y axes are moving accurately too. you'll need to do the same for your extruder as well. (the last set of value)by ahbtsang - General
Re: My failed Parcan hotend.. 
- 12 years ago
Hi Parcan, thank you very much for your response. right at this moment, I am clearing out the jammed plastic in the PEEK block, as the PLA im using is stuck very firmly to it... I was a little bit worried whether I could just drill out the jammed plastic.. but since you've confirmed it, I'm gonna get fixing now. I'll update everyone how it goes, and very kind of you sending over some PTFE tubeby ahbtsang - General
Re: My failed Parcan hotend.. - 12 years ago
oh. that sounds good. thanks. then I should order some in!by ahbtsang - General
Re: My failed Parcan hotend.. - 12 years ago
thanks for your info guys. So for my situation now, does it mean my hotend is beyond repair? meaning I need to get a new one??by ahbtsang - General
Re: Z axis movement - 12 years ago
looks like you need to adjust the DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT in your firmware... Im using M8 threaded rods and i have 3200/1.25 as the z axis steps. To test, simply go to pronterface, get a ruler out, hold it perpendicular to your bed, then measure a reference point on you x carriage to the bed. then command the z axis to move up by 10, then see if your reference point has actually moved 10mm.by ahbtsang - General
My print bed alignment setup - 12 years ago
This might not be a new thing to some, but after I have changed to use brass rods to support my print bed instead of springs, I get much stronger compression force to work against some slightly warped plastic. this is the idea I've taken from nophead. The bed was kinda leveled when using the brass spacer rods, but sometimes maybe due to the uneven glass or aluminium plate or caused by the bulldoby ahbtsang - General
Re: My failed Parcan hotend.. - 12 years ago
ic... I know the JHead is a popular choice.. but it seems like it also has a PTFE tube inside.. which means it is prone to fail after some time. Also I am a little put off by the length of the support block.. feels like that it will take away a few cms off my Z axis.. has any experienced a failed JHead so far??by ahbtsang - General
Re: T5 pulleys that aren't printed - 12 years ago
I ordered some from them too, i'm thinking the pulleys are essental to be completely circular.. they are the key parts to create a smooth flat print.. I tried printing out the pulleys but I always have a feeling that these crucial parts must be made with a more precise method.by ahbtsang - General
My failed Parcan hotend.. - 12 years ago
I've been using Parcan's hotend for a while and it had been great. I used his version 1 and 2, and there was a huge improvement on his 2nd one already. Anyway, recently, it could not extrude plastic anymore, so I took it out from my extruder assembly, tried to see what was wrong. I realised that the PTFE tube was slowly being pushed upward as I was pushing the filament down by hand. After pushiby ahbtsang - General
Marlin problem? - 12 years ago
I updated to the latest marlin with the combination of the latest pronterface. I followed all the same settings from my older firmware, and did the extruder calibration, then when I got it to home all axis.. once the end stops are triggered, it doesn't do the slow down homing anymore, is this something wrong with my setting? or I forgot to put something on? Also when I send a file to print, it mby ahbtsang - General
Re: Glue - 12 years ago
When I built mine, I use epoxy resin, those come in 2 tubes and you need to mix them by hand. It takes about an hour to dry, but once its tried, it stuck solidly. Glue from model shops also worked well for me. Since model kits are made from ABS, although a bit expensive, but that kind of glue was just perfect. I also managed to stick PLA with it. I tried heating up the PLA parts with a lighterby ahbtsang - General