Thanks for the heads up! I ran into this exact problem. It kept jaming my head/stripping the filament on an unusually thin wall object. I'll try an older slic3r.by Komb' - General
Nevermind. Although the Box says 210-220c I tried running it at the usual PLA temp of 170-180c with a bed temp of 60c and it works fine.by Komb' - Printing
It's been a long time since I had to ask a question here... I've tried other PLA and usually got it to stick to my Heated Kapton bed at the right temprature. However, I am having trouble finding the right temp for this MG Chemicals Red PLA. I have tried 60-95, 40, 0. Zero almost worked. It still lifted around the edges. Could it be I'm printing too hot? 210-220 (sugested) 50% White glue/wateby Komb' - Printing
Sorry for reviving this old thread. However, when I decided to impliment the garyhodgson design (pointed out by Sublime above...) as an actual dual head printer, I was determined to post it here. Unfortnatly, it took me way longer to build & perfect than I had hoped. Plus it took me too long to get around to posting about it and finding the original thread that inspired it. Anyway, Here itby Komb' - Developers
Our Appologies to anyone who attempted to order from our store in the past. Our shopping cart was broken. Shipping options were missing. It's been sorted now. Prusa I2 and 8mm Wallace plastic parts available. And for St. Patrick's Day (rest of the month really ) Green BotFeeder palstic is 5% off. Please try our store again.by Komb' - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
Thanks All! Higher temp did keep the filament from building-up on the nozzle. However, I do think my current extruder is having trouble gripping the filament. Again thanks,by Komb' - Printing
I'm trying out some Flex filament from Torwell. I can get it to print, but it seems to collect some on my print head (Standard J-Head .4mm) and then drop blobs into the print. My working settings are: bed 70c Tip 205c Any advice on flexable filament may be useful. Never used it before. Thanks,by Komb' - Printing
Oops, Should have said $700. CDNby Komb' - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
This is my first printer made for sale to the general public. I would like to sell it locally in the greater Toronto Area for easy Customer Service if nessessary. It's an 8mm Wallace with all my modifications on. This includes my X & Y Rack & Pinion drive mods. (Thingiverse Thing 37787) & Thing 173516) Motor stabiliser feet and Spool hook. (Thing 79392) Eckstruder Wallace Editionby Komb' - Canada, Toronto RepRap User Group
For your Halloween printing fun, We've placed our Orange and Pruple spools of ABS on sale. 5% off Also available Prusa I2 plastic parts. Please visit our store.by Komb' - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
I tried the last one, as it looked more eligant, but it just paused.by Komb' - General
I'm working on my first dual extruder machine... still... Two things I'm woundering. 1. Is there a way to un-retract at the end of a print? My Dual colour prints always end with one or the other extruder in a retracted position. This is a problem when starting a new print. Especially if I forget it happened and don't manually corect it. 2. Is there a way to have both extruders primed, like thby Komb' - General
I had set-up an electric heater as my basement was getting too cold to print in. Unfortinatly, when it cycled the heater on/off sometimes one of my printers would hick-up and go offline.by Komb' - Reprappers
Testing this new build dual head printer. Things are going fine during the Dual extruder test print, when the machine suddenly starts juttering momentarily then stops. Pronter face shows the hotends have now shut down. (getting cold) No indication of a problem on pronterface and all comunications to the printer are ignored. I have to reset printer to regain control. Anyone seen this before?by Komb' - Reprappers
O.K. I was using an older Marlin on the printer. I did have the newer version, but when I was looking for those lines, I compleatly missed them the first few times. Having ruled out the motors, wireing and firmware, I decided to look at the jumpers on the RAMPS board. This was an unusual board for me as all the native jumpers were colourful. Red, Yellow and Blue, rather than the regular Blacby Komb' - Reprappers
I have swapped the motors, and the behaviour goes to the new motor. I did get my Marlin from github. ... Doh! I had the old version arround for an older printer and mistakenly used that. I'm looking at the right one now. Gotta move the changes across... Hopefully that will fix my problem. Let you know when it's tested.by Komb' - Reprappers
Polulus are set the same. Marlin version is the latest. Marlin_v1.zip swapped the polulus, same result.by Komb' - Reprappers
I'm sure I set the pot on each polulu the same, but I'll double check. Can't find those lines in either Configuration.h or Configuration_Adv.h Will double check for newer Marlin...by Komb' - Reprappers
I've set-up a dual extruder machine and am trying to get Marlin configured corectly. Currently I've managed to set it up to recognise it had dual extruders. Each extruder can be selected in Pronterface and heats-up correctly. However, when I press the extrude button, the first extruder runs fast and rough. The second runs smooth and at normal speed. I haven't been able to find a compleate setby Komb' - Reprappers
I made a wood grove mount from 70's wall panneling extras for my original Prusa when I got my J-head. It works like a charm. I also use the two screw mount for my Wallace version of the Eckstruder. No problems there. I suspect the ABS grove mount plates would work just as well.by Komb' - Reprappers
Bubbly Filament has been a problem for me. I started with a .35mm nozzle and bad/bubbly filament. The bubbles would build up in the hot end and cause enough back pressure to strip the filament. When I switched to known good quality filament. Printing went fine. Later I ordered a .5mm nozzle and tried my left over rolls of bad/bubbly filament on that. It sounded like popcorn as the bubbles madby Komb' - General
The Rack is printed diagonaly across the bed. So far the teeth of the Racks look identical.by Komb' - General
@ jamesdanielv Thanks, I'll get to that as soon as I can. @ Anyone building an R&P Wallace. As some had asked me to try printing a rack from my R&P printer, replace the existing one with the new, Rince & Repeat, etc. I tried printing one on the Wallace G1 and the Ecksbot. Ecksbot made my originals. The WG1's was about 2mm longer! So, it re-calibrated the E-steps for x-y and triedby Komb' - General
I've run into some problems printing 1 of the parts, now that I am making another whole printer. Taking some time to make printing part easy. Also replacing the Z end-stop holder with another design. Current one rocks too much. I've been calling the entire Modified Wallace design the Wallce GP or Wallace G1 I'll be putting the entire Modified Wallace design on Thingiverse as soon as I have anby Komb' - General
Quotetheodleif Congratulations. Welcome to the wonderful world of reprap. Not sure where you are going with this... I freely admit to borrowing form those projects. Says so on my first R&P design, referenced from my latest design. However, I must say I really didn't like the bars coming out of the units like that. It seemed a dangerious design to me. Plus I don't have enough space for maby Komb' - General
Quotejamesdanielv this is pure innovation! what speeds are you able to get? can you do a circle 4 inches in size single walled 1 inch up at 60-100mm/s? if so I'm sold on the idea. Not being sure how fast the .4mm J-head could go, I decided on 75mm/s for this test. After the Bottom fill, and the time it took to get my video capture software working... the print took 4 minutes. Probabily 6-7 inclby Komb' - General
@ Yvan Holding the motor out there and placing the Rack on the Carriage is doable. Would take a bit more to keep the motor steady though. I'll give it some thought. How ever, this set up is working just fine. @ Everybody The Pictures I promised: I think I was running a little too hot on her. In the side view you can just notice an artifact from the Y R&P. I have adjusted that anby Komb' - General
jzatopa Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Komb, that is awesome, you've got a big win right > there. > > The prints looks good. > > How is the backlash and wear resistance? Ah, Good question! I put some lithum grease on the Y R&P when I noticed dust coming from my extruder gears. Seen no wear since then. If the gears are meshed properly tby Komb' - General
Mogal Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Great job... > > Whats the advantage with this? > I thought people didn't like this idea cuz it's > 'too slow' ie: leadscrew > Also, with this design, you have the extra mass on > the x axis? > > Please do't beat me up over this, its just a > curiosity question. Less belt tightening. Runs atby Komb' - General
gmh39 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What are the advantages of a eavl and pinion over > the standard belts and pulleys? I'm presuming you mean rack and pinion. I originally replaced the belt under the Wallace bed as: 1. I didn't like the serpentine layout of the original design. 2. When it had gone slack it was a pain to re-tighten So, I replaced itby Komb' - General