thanks repetier! I also found this:by discocyborg - Repetier
Hi everyone - thinking about switching to the Repetier firmware from Marlin and I'm trying to define my extruder thermistor. I'm using a Budaschnozzle which comes w/ a Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01. In Marlin, I can select that particular thermistor because all the thermistor values are defined in "thermistortables.h" How do I use those values in the Repetier firmware? are those thermistor tables stoby discocyborg - Repetier
> While taking my weekly stroll through Lowes, I > found some tubing in the plumbing section thats > raised some interest. Any thoughts on whether or > not polyethylene tubing would work for a Bowden. > The smallest they had in stock was 1/4"od x > .17"id. (about 4mm id). Seemed rigid enough, but > I've never worked with a bowden, so I'm not > positive what it takes. Reby discocyborg - General
I just looked at SeeMeCNC - thanks. unfortunately, they only seem to have 2mm teflon tubing (I'm using 3mm filament currently...) maybe in the future when/if I switch to 1.75mm,by discocyborg - General
+1 to the brim. I found out about this technique about a month ago and it's nearly eliminated close to all my warp + curl. would love it if there was a way to include a small brim when printing multiple objects at once.by discocyborg - General
I'm using SketchUp to design my machine... probably a lot more easier options, but I'm a visual artist so it sorta makes more sense + is more synchronous with the way I work than something like OpenSCAD's programming interface. so really, there might be a bajizzillion ways to design your printer - it might be a matter of finding something that works well with your fluencies and the way you thinkby discocyborg - General
I'm implementing a bowden tube for my new fabricator design and I have two questions... first, most people seem to be using PFTE/Teflon for the tubing - are there other options, especially if they're easier to source? someone at my local hackerspace was looking into automotive parts (brake lines I think, but not sure...) - and this could be attractive if it's easier + more widely available. relby discocyborg - General
I've been using this method for a few months now, but I use a pretty heavily concentrated ABS solution. I tried the lighter concentrate, and that seems to work fine - but more often than not, I probably tend to use a way more concentrated solution than necessary (sometimes the glass is nearly opaque w/ a thick layer of dried ABS sludge on it...) there's no rational reason behind it - it's moreby discocyborg - Reprappers
for ABS, you might look into an acetone dip. I've found that if I smooth out the sides + edges w/ 150 grit (or finer) sandpaper and then give the piece a quick dip in acetone, it can give a smooth + shiny finish. you'll have to experiment w/ how long to leave it in the dip (sometimes just 5 seconds is enough) to get the results you're after, but don't leave it in too long or the acetone will sby discocyborg - General
awesome. I just finished my reprap and I've had a real perplexing time getting all the dependencies working on my Mac (OSX 10.7.2) - I couldn't manage to get pronterface + skeinforge/sfact working that well together without some crazy work-around. just a day after making my first calibration print w/ sfact, I found yr post on Slic3r and I have to say I'm really wondering why I should continueby discocyborg - Slic3r
I'd like to add that the Hackerspace Charlotte RepRap group is pretty active. since we started a few months ago, we have about 10 people building Prusa Mendels (2.5 are already printing great) and the second round of the build group (about 5 or 6 people) have decided to build mendelmax's. altogether that's about 15 printers coming out of our hackerspace. if anyone's interested, you're welcomeby discocyborg - North Carolina RepRap User Group
awesome! I'm curious to see the stability + scalability comparisons b/w your design and a mendelmax; there are some similarities between the two (which isn't necessarily a bad thing.) a few questions.... what sort of stable print speeds are you getting? also, a notable difference is yr z-axis motors being mounted on the bottom - have you found that keeping the z-steppers low on the frame helpsby discocyborg - Extruded Aluminum Frames