Thanks papergeek, That's exactly what I needed to know. I knew I could add that stuff to the slicer start code, but I didn't know how to edit the text. I think I need to actually slice an object with the "macro" code in the start part, then edit out everything but my preheat code. So you say I can do that with Notepad+? A quick google search looks like I want to use Notepad++. Is there a diby Purple Kerbie - General
In pronterface I wrote a "preheat" macro that sets the temps, moves the bed forward, and raises Z 0.3 mm. How can I set something up like this on a stand alone printer? I was thinking I could write a gcode file that looks like my macro, but I don't know which software to use. Or maybe modify the Marlin file? What tab would that be?by Purple Kerbie - General
Well I got it figured out. When I mentioned I saw the motors move I didn't realize that they hit an endstop. In addition, I didn't have the endstop connectors properly installed on the ramps board, the trigger disconnect my printer and would not reconnect. So in summary, if you get a code 10 error trying to install the driver, try removing all the hardware connectors.by Purple Kerbie - RAMPS Electronics
Can someone the me what the message "This device cannot start. (Code 10)" means when I'm trying to update my driver for the mega2650 rev 3? Yesterday, I did manage to connect from the com port, flash Marlin, and get the motors to move. Today I can't connect and I don't see the com port in pronterface. Looking in the device manage I see an exclamation point and the above error message next toby Purple Kerbie - RAMPS Electronics
One of the things on my "to design/build" list was some guide wheels for my cheap band saw. This gives me some ideas. Thanksby Purple Kerbie - General
I'm treating it like another tool in my workshop. Whenever I have a problem at the house that needs fixing, I think of the printer. For example, after I recently installed a new sink faucet, I found it was a little to wobbly. This was due to the lower quality of the replacement faucet over the original. But a few measurements and a trip to the printer later, a new custom bracket was made andby Purple Kerbie - General
I was just browsing a few websites, looking for parts for the next printer, and noticed the same thing. Must be a lot of new reprapper's spending their tax refund checks.by Purple Kerbie - General
I put some of those magnet cores around my USB and it seemed to help. I also stopped turning the lights off (during a print) that the share the same circuit as the printer. Could be a coincidence but a good print is a good print.by Purple Kerbie - Mendel90
Thanks Cameron for the quick reply. I was looking back through all my settings and for some reason I had "First layer extrusion" at 130% instead of default 0. After changing it and redoing the extrusion test, I am spot on. I can't believe I was getting good looking prints with being off so much. I was making 1.2 mm walls when it was calling for 0.8.by Purple Kerbie - General
Hey Guys, I just loaded 0.9.8 and starting to play with it. I was using alexrj's extruder calibration page and I got stuck on: - Open the Gcode file and look for the value for single wall width Is this somewhere in the opening lines? Do I need to do some math? ; generated by Slic3r 0.9.8 on 2013-01-23 at 15:48:00 ; layer_height = 0.2 ; perimeters = 3 ; top_solid_layers = 3 ; bottom_solidby Purple Kerbie - General
Thanks richgain, I use Marlin on my Mendel90 so I wasn't sure which one to pick. After trying them all, I got Absolute E to work. Still trying to work out all the settings. I "Z settle" the same as "Z lift"? Then I guess I need to use destring?by Purple Kerbie - Mendel90
Could someone share their _material, _styles, and _printer files. I tried a few prints from the KISSlicer gcode and all I can accomplish is to reverse my filament out of the extruder then just move very slow. Thanksby Purple Kerbie - Mendel90
I don't use this, but I remember Nophead made this basket type device. thing 85 I built a Mendel90 myself. A very stable printer.by Purple Kerbie - General
Hit the link in the above post.by Purple Kerbie - Printing
Have you tried "The Brim"?by Purple Kerbie - Printing
I would take the idler wheel off and pull the filament out. Check to see if it's all chewed up. It probably is, so use a Q-tip and clean out the hobbed bolt grooves and the rest of the space where the bearing sits. Clean your idler bearing also. Before you reassemble, turn on your hot end and wait until its at temp. Clip off the damaged filament and insert into the hot end. You should be abby Purple Kerbie - General Mendel Topics
Bravo IdolCrasher. I've been going nuts trying to print this long, thin, and tall bracket for work and I couldn't get it to stop lifting. After adding "The Brim" it worked on the first try.by Purple Kerbie - General
Are you talking about these things I found in my Allied Electronics catalog?by Purple Kerbie - RAMPS Electronics