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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Here is a part I made for the dashboard of my car to hold an Android tablet - 14 years ago
So this is the main thing I got this 3d printer for. It might not seem like a big deal but good lord it took quite a bit of learning to get this print to look good. mp3carby crutonius - Look what I made!
Re: Cheapest place to buy Sanguino or Arduino boards - 14 years ago
I just got one from Amazon for $45. But that's probably not a great price. I have seen what I believe are Chinese knock offs on ebay for around $25. I don't know if they'd be suitable though.by crutonius - General
Re: belt and puuley vs all thread - 14 years ago
The reason I've read is that a threaded screw isn't nearly as fast as a belt and pulley.by crutonius - General
Re: A (New?) GT2 Timing Belt and Pulley source - 14 years ago
amramsey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm a little baffled by you guys saying that the > shaft size was wrong. Of course it was! The > webpage for that pulley clearly says that the bore > is 3/16th inches (4.7625 millimeters). Stepper > shaft is 5mm. > > Perhaps you should have looked a little further > down the page? Drilling out thesby crutonius - Reprappers
What's everyone's opinion on what the best firmware is? - 14 years ago
I searched for a topic like this and I couldn't find it. Apologies if I missed it. I'm running a Mendel Prusa with Sprinter and I think I'm going to need to make some changes to the firmware with some of the modifications I'm doing(I'm widening the bed from 8 inches to 16 inches). Sprinter seems to be the most popular but I'm seeing Marlin pop up on here a bunch. Has anybody used both? Maybeby crutonius - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: A (New?) GT2 Timing Belt and Pulley source - 14 years ago
The order finally came in. It took them a few days to get it on its way. Unfortunately the pulleys seem to be a little small for the motor shaft. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that yet. Other than that I think these will work quite nicely. The way these fit together seem quite a bit more precise than the original t5 timing belt. Hopefully I get some good result with these.by crutonius - Reprappers
Re: A (New?) GT2 Timing Belt and Pulley source - 14 years ago
Thanks that's pretty helpful actually. I'm about to extend the print size of my Prusa and I was thinking of upgrading the belt system while I'm at it.by crutonius - Reprappers
Re: Could someone tell me the simple thing I'm doing wrong with this PLA print? - 14 years ago
jebba Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Buddaschnozzle 1.1 from Lulzbot. I'm starting to > think Lulzbot hasn't done a whole lot of testing > with PLA. > > We run 2 (or more) PLA printers business days 7am > to 3pm for about 6 months now. Hmm... it might have to do with the fact that I built a wooden enclosure around it. Maybe it's causinby crutonius - Printing
Re: Could someone tell me the simple thing I'm doing wrong with this PLA print? - 14 years ago
Zarquon Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All of my prints are in PLA and I’ve never had > the extruder jam from print speed. What hot end > are you using? Have you tried adjusting the > temperature (I typically do slightly warmer then > you)? Have you considered increasing the current > to your extruder stepper? Buddaschnozzle 1.1 from Lulzbotby crutonius - Printing
Re: Could someone tell me the simple thing I'm doing wrong with this PLA print? - 14 years ago
I tried a few of those cooling options. The print quality got better but the filmanet was extruding so slow that the extruder jammed, I guess it's a PLA thing. I'm going to have to do some experimentation with that thanksby crutonius - Printing
Could someone tell me the simple thing I'm doing wrong with this PLA print? - 14 years ago
So as you can see everything prints beautilfully up until past the base. It's PLA. The extruder is run at 180. The bed is at 75. It was made in Slic3r. Do I need a fan or something to fix this? Thanksby crutonius - Printing
Re: ABS vs. PLA - 14 years ago
Based on my limited experience here's a few things I've noticed. ABS needs higher temperatures to get a good print quality. Those higher temps are going to wear down your printer faster. PLA smells better, whether or not it's less toxic than ABS I don't know. With PLA the filament is more brittle, breakable, prone to temperature issues. Here's an example. Every other print I would make wiby crutonius - General
Re: daz3d offering pro modeling software free - 14 years ago
I got this a while back when it started. Hexagon is nice enough software to use but there's a nasty problem with their boolean tool. Most of the time when I use it to punch a hole in something it completely distorts the object.by crutonius - General
Re: Keeping that darn bed level - 14 years ago
Mazaw Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > crutonius Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Okay so, today's lesson is don't build a > chamber > > and poke a single hole on the top for the > filament > > to feed through. It will drag on the bearings > > enough to wear them down pretty fast. > &by crutonius - General Mendel Topics
Re: Keeping that darn bed level - 14 years ago
Okay so, today's lesson is don't build a chamber and poke a single hole on the top for the filament to feed through. It will drag on the bearings enough to wear them down pretty fast. Hopefully that's the problem. My stupidity is much easier to deal with then design deficiencies.by crutonius - General Mendel Topics
Re: Keeping that darn bed level - 14 years ago
I'm not sure what you mean by those questions exactly. Here's a picture of the bottom. I bought it off Ebay from Lulzbot(heresy, I know). I'll take a look at that link. I saw another similar project too in another thread. thanks for the info.by crutonius - General Mendel Topics
Re: Keeping that darn bed level - 14 years ago
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What is the y - carriage made from? I tried 6mm > MDF and had exactly that problem. I switched to > 3mm Dibond and the problem was solved. Aluminum 3mm. I'm wondering if there's an easy way to make some kind of auto bed levelling feature. Maybe bring the extruder down on every corner and detect when it's hittingby crutonius - General Mendel Topics
Keeping that darn bed level - 14 years ago
It seems like with nearly every other print, I have to make sure that the bed is perfectly level with barely a sheet's of paper thickness between the nozzle and the glass. It's like it drifts or something after every print. Is this normal? thanksby crutonius - General Mendel Topics
Re: Lifting at corners on a large print - 14 years ago
Thanks for the suggestions. The part might be too big for the skirt to go around it but that's definitely an interesting idea. I've built a box out of mdf per droftarts suggestions. It seemed to help with the edges though it still wasn't perfect. Then the spool jammed and derailed the extruder. Here's an interesting fact about a heated build chamber, the pla bearings get hot enough to get flby crutonius - Printing
Lifting at corners on a large print - 14 years ago
Hi, I'm a little new to this so here goes. I have a Prusa Mendel and I'm trying to print this relatively large part. It started off fine but about half way through the corners started lifting. The nozzle is set for 225 and the bed is set for 110 but it only seems to be able to reach around 95. I'm using abs I got from Ultimachine. I believe I'm using the Sprinter firmware and I used Skeinforby crutonius - Printing