I was at the Maker Faire yesterday as well and was pretty impressed with the print quality of the sample prints on display at the QU-BD booth. The printers looked incredibly solid and the new extruder design looked pretty interesting. But the print quality of the form1 blew all the FDM printers out of the water. The detail on the fingers of the zeus figurine was completely amazing. The only dby Wraithnot - General
I ordered a V1 linear Prusa kit from Makerfarm last year (and subsequently printed and built a V2 Prusa with linear bearings). All in all, they were good printers. But they were kind of a pain to transport and there were some ripples in the prints when I tried printing faster that I interpreted as being due to the frame resonating. The Makerfarm Prusa i3 looks like a much better design in teby Wraithnot - General Mendel Topics
I ordered their Prusa i3 kit last night and got a $15 discount for buying a roll of filament and the spool holder. Of course, this didn't exactly take the sting out of the checkout since I had to buy additional stuff to get the discount. But you're going to need filament and some sort of spool holder so you might as well get them now and save some money. I was really happy with the linear bearby Wraithnot - General
Berra Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is possible to use 1,75mm filament to 3mm extruder > ? > > /Bertil If you have a hot end designed for 1.75 filament then it's definitely possible to print with 1.75 mm filament using a Wade's extruder designed for 3 mm filament. I know because I've done it. But I wouldn't recommend it. At least with my setupby Wraithnot - General
I think the Eiffel tower model would make a fantastic printing contest. It is pretty much impossible to print all the details using a standard reprap printer without scaling the model up. The challenge would be to keep all the details with the lowest scaling factor. I'd also suggest ditching the prize and keeping the contest open for a while. Anyway, that's my two cents.by Wraithnot - Competitions
BenitoSanduchi Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I put Sailfish on a Thing-o-Matic I've been > repairing and upgrading for someone. It now runs > circles around my MendelMax and I don't understand > it. One thing Sailfish does is handle retraction > as a part of the firmware and does so very well. > The outer shell of my prints from the TOM sincby Wraithnot - Reprappers
According to an article in wired, the Arduino Due goes on sale tomorrow for $49. "The long-awaited Arduino Due just hit the market, replacing the 8-bit, 16MHz brain of the popular Uno microcontroller prototyping platform with a 32-bit, 84MHz processor, while augmenting inputs and capabilities all around." And an article in hackaday says: "The board looks strikingly similar to the already comby Wraithnot - RAMPS Electronics
Once you get things mostly dialed in, I'd suggest printing some of the models from past competitions in the competition forum (it's in the Fabrication section about halfway down the main page). People post pictures of their prints and after looking at some of the entries I realized that the yoda print I thought looked halfway decent still had a lot of room for improvement. After dropping my extby Wraithnot - Reprappers
Since switching to repetier, I've only had two communication errors in ~100 prints. But that is still 2 too many. I was using the USB cable that came with the RAMPS 1.4 kit from ultimachine so I assumed they would have included a high quality cable with their kits. But the specs don't say anything about it being a shielded cable so I'll probably add a shielded USB cable to my next order from aby Wraithnot - Reprappers
I just came accross the sailfish posting on Thingiverse and decided to look into it a bit. I found a "lively" debate about the topic on google groups. As far as I can tell, sailfish and marlin both use the same basic formula to calculate how to accelerate the print head, but sailfish uses a faster algorithm to perform some of the calculations and this would improve things in situations whereby Wraithnot - Reprappers
I was in a similar situation a few months ago with a deadline looming. I tried a hail-Mary and swapped out both marlin and pronterface for repetier firmware and repetier host. I followed the repetier firmware instructions to the letter and replaced the arduino code for serial communication with the updated version prior to compiling the firmware. I was completely shocked when everything workedby Wraithnot - Reprappers
I've used sprinter, marlin, and repetier. I noticed a dramatic improvement when I switched from sprinter to marlin. But with marlin I noticed the printer would slow down on some portions of models with large numbers of polygons. The printer would also crash intermittently with a line number error and this would occur more frequently the more complex the model I tried to print. I then tried reby Wraithnot - Reprappers
I was plagued by an intermittent "Error:Line Number is not Last Line Number+1" error a few months ago on two separate printers (both with RAMPS 1.4, an older non-gen6 version of Marlin, and two different versions of pronterface). Sometimes I could print again after unplugging the USB cable and plugging it back in, but sometimes it would require a firmware reinstall to get things working again.by Wraithnot - General
I just read the entire thread more carefully. If changing the firmware in your printer is not an option, I bet ttsalo's suggestion of reducing the number of polygons in your model will also help. The easiest way I've found to do this is with Meshlab. Use the Quadratic Edge Collapse Decimation command (I believe this is in Filters > Remeshing, simplification and construction). Meshlab has aby Wraithnot - Printing
I had a similar problem whenever I would print small objects with lots of polygons (3D scans of faces). Whenever the printer got to an especially complicated part of the model, it would pause for a few seconds and then start again. I was using an older non-gen6 version of Marlin (running on RAMPS1.4) and a mid 2012 version of pronterface (running on an old Windows XP Dell laptop) with serial coby Wraithnot - Printing
Almost exclusively 1.75mm PLA at this point. While I'm at it, Makerfarm linear bearing SAE Prusa (with various bits swapped out / upgraded), 0.35 mm Makergear hotend, heated printbed with a piece of cheap glass clipped on, Slic3r 0.93, Repetier firmware, and Repetier host. I started with 3 mm PLA, 0.5 mm nozzle, pronterface, skeinforge, and sprinter. Moved to marlin and finally switched to Rby Wraithnot - General
I'm still a bit new to this, but to my eye that looks more like warping than too much plastic being extruded. What kind of plastic are you using? Do you have a heated bed? If so, what is the bed temp set to? What surface are you printing on? Do you have a fan? What speed are you printing at?by Wraithnot - Printing
I've ordered two different hobbed bolts (one from a seller on ebay and another from ultimachine) and they were completely different. Both worked, but the bolts were different lengths, the hobbing was in a different spot, and the shape and depth of the grooves was completely different. So ordering another hobbed bolt or two from different suppliers might solve your problem. I've also tried anby Wraithnot - Reprappers
I bought 3 spools of 1.75 mm PLA from them and was very happy with both the plastic and the customer service.by Wraithnot - General
Pointedstick Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > bobasp1 Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Ohh wow this is a nice price for the vitamins > 81$ > > for the set or most of it. > > > > > > ct=21 > > > I used that vitamins kit for my Prusa and again, > you get what you pay for.by Wraithnot - General
At least on paper, the azteeg x1 looks like a pretty good deal. But you'll still need to source the stepper drivers. bobasp1 Wrote: > Ohh wow this is a nice price for the vitamins 81$ > for the set or most of it. > > ct=21 > > Thanks everyone! I will keep going through to find > everything. My question now is about the > microcontrollers, is it one board per axis or juby Wraithnot - General
I finally got a heated bed after I had a minor disaster trying to print a plate of prusa parts in PLA on painter's tape. After successfully printing numerous single objects on painter's tape, I decided to upgrade to prusa v2 and starting printing one of the full plates of parts. The first few layers were fine so I figured all was well and went to bed. In the morning, instead of a beautiful pby Wraithnot - Printing
I'm still pretty new to this, but if you have access to a printer and have more time than money then I suggest buying a bare bones hardware kit and source the rest of the parts yourself. I bought my first partial kit from makerfarm (hardware and printed parts) in late January and just ordered my second kit (hardware only) from thingfarm north america. If you don't see exactly what you need on tby Wraithnot - General
Slic3r 0.71 has a drop down menu in the "print settings" tab to specify whether support material is extruded with the "primary" or "secondary" tool. I haven't actually tried this since I only have a single extruder on my Prusa Medel. But it certainly looks like the software is intended to support a dual extruder setup where the second extruder is used for support material (presumably water soby Wraithnot - Slic3r
Hi Ataraxia, I finished building a prusa mendel a week ago (RAMPS 1.4 electronics, sprinter firmware, pronterface) and experienced the same issue when I tried to upgrade to marlin v1.0 beta firmware today. I altered the default settings for the baud rate, end stop inversion, axis steps, etc. to match the settings in my successfully configured sprinter and everything worked except the z axis wouby Wraithnot - General