Hi I have been building these machines for a long time now and have put together 6 full kits for sale, you can find them here My website is here www.layerlabz.com and you can ask me questions on the phone number on that site. The parts included are the best quality, and the budaschnozzle works great. I will hopefully be selling from my site in the coming weeks.by fredted1234 - General
I have used bothe filaments, and have found no difference in the price where I buy it from, reprapworld.com I used 3mm stuff for ages and found it very very hard to work with. Filament that thick wound on a spool just doesn't come off easily giving you feed problems. Sometimes with different colors the plastic can snap and break when coming off the roll because it is so tightly wound. I have manyby fredted1234 - General
Ye even better cheap and easy to source. You mite have problems with lineing up the teeth on the gears when it switches between extruders. But just an idea, I'm sure someone has the answer!by fredted1234 - Developers
Ye I was thinking a small solinoid like the ones found in some cameras, could have a spring pushing the gear against the solinoid.by fredted1234 - Developers
Oh ok so you think a 30 amp 24v power supply would be needed for 12" x 8" heatbed? Do you know where I could get my hands on some affordable 8mm lead screws and which ones would be useful for 3D printing, just for the z axis? Thanksby fredted1234 - Developers
What if you used a small solinoid to push the gear on the square bar back and forth between two different extruders so you could print two colors with the same motor.by fredted1234 - Developers
I have been using them for a good while now with the standard heated and they work great! Just worried about the larger 12"x 8" beds and what kind of a power supply I would need. If I was to use a 24v power supply with the ramps and 24v heat cartridge and 24v 12" x 8" heat bed would this work better?by fredted1234 - Developers
Hi im looking for a source for an 8"x 12" heatbed? Does anyone know where I can get one? I was going to try Japicabot but they are not selling anymore. I just need 2 or so to test and am looking to spend €30 or so on each one. Got a good price from the US but shipping was 150$ or so. Does anyone know is these beds are any good? they require a lot of power dont they? I have a 12v 20amp power supplby fredted1234 - Developers
Hi im tryin to use SD ramps, iv enabled it in marlin. the software pronterface can pick up the sd card and read the file. when i click on the file it loads the file and starts printing. however when i press the disconnect or pull out the cable from the pc it stops printing. the led is on on the arduino when i plug out the usb and the D1 and D2 is installed on the ramps. Does anyone know where imby fredted1234 - General
Hi im tryin to use SD ramps, im enabled it in marlin. the software pronterface can pick up the sd card and read the file. when i click on the file it loads the file and starts printing. however when i press the disconnect or pull out the cable from the pc it stops printing. the led is on on the arduino when i plug out the usb and the D1 and D2 is installed on the ramps. Does anyone know where imby fredted1234 - Sanguino(lolu)
Two sets of Prusa I3 ready to go (one black and white and one blue) One Rostock in blue ready to go Three Prusa Mendel ready to go ( one black and grey and two black and white) One wades Herringbone nuclear green ready to go Blue Airtripper ready to go Make me an offer!!!by fredted1234 - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
3D CAD PRINTING Make me a fair offer! I can print great quality parts for all machine types; I have a Prusa Air(€60), Prusa I3(€60), Rostock (€60), and Prusa Mendel (€65)all in stock. I also sell GT2 Belts and Pulleys, 12v-24v 40w heater cartridges, 100k thermisters, Linear Bearings and wire wound resistors. Have one set of aluminium couplings left but more will be in stock soon. I have sold manby fredted1234 - Plastic RepRap Parts for Sale
ok i have tried nearly everything i can think of and is sudjested and there seems to be no improvement, the extruder will print fine one minute and the clogg and not extrude untill i put pressure on the filament manually. or with luck sometimes it will start going again. this can happen several times throughout the print? does anyone have any other suggestions i could look at? thanks for the helpby fredted1234 - General
ok yes i will try pulling out the filament at 100, is there any reason why this problem gets worse with the fan blowing on the hotend? thanksby fredted1234 - General
im using a jhead, the original 100k thermister broke for the hotend so i took the 100k glass bead thermister out of the heat bed and replace it. i dont think its the thermister because the problem existed before i changed it. there doesnt seem to be any huge variation in the temp its prity much at the 190 all the time. right now there is no fan on atal during the print, and it seems to be slighby fredted1234 - General
yes it is getting jammed, but only some times. mid print if it stops extruding i will push it down manually until it starts extruding again. I have removed and cleaned the hot end and the bolt a few times. What do you mean look at the power to the e stepper? what could be going wrong there? do you think its the plastic? I dont understand what you mean power enough to stall just before it slips?by fredted1234 - General
I have been trying for the last while to get the printer to work reliably. however it seems to fail a lot of prints. the problem is that it will print perfect for a while and then nothing will come out of the extruder and it will begin to fail, sometimes it will start up again and extrude plastic by its self, or if i push the filament manually it will extrude again? there have many things i haveby fredted1234 - General
I am having the same problem with mirroring, although i cant figure out which axis needs to be changed? I have attached a photo, the hole on the left in the photo is actually ment to be on the right? does anyone know if this is the x axis or the y? and if so how do i change this?by fredted1234 - General
wow they look amazing! how do they perform? any issues with it?by fredted1234 - General
Hi yes here is the link for an stl of the printer, as i said i havnt worked on the properly just did a quick model as to where i would lay out everything. ye cheers the links are very helpful i didnt realise people were using rack and pinions already, i was thinking of driving all the axis using this system, and possible a bowden extruder which would hopefully make the prints better quality.by fredted1234 - General
I havnt designed the rack and pinion yet, i have little experience with gears and designing them, the iges model of the whole printer is available in the link above. I will soon be looking at how to draw it, do you have any experience with gears?by fredted1234 - General
I have had an idea floating around for increaseing the ammount of printed plastic parts in the reprap, It would use a printed plastic rack and pinion to move each of the axis.Im not sure if it would work, but I wanted to share the idea and get peoples opinions of it. The possible flaws and the positive aspects of it? It uses a bowden extruder so this should improve printing quality. The steppersby fredted1234 - General
Im am having a problem with my heat bed. My prints keep failing and coming off the heated bed. The reason why they come off the heat bed is because it turns off itself towards the end of the print? when i try to turn it back on in pronterface it wont heat up again. I have noticed that when the printer turns on and i click print, it firstly heats up the bed to 60 degrees, but doesnt show a targetby fredted1234 - General
i have also just noticed that the resettable fuse is very very hot, i dont know if this is normal?by fredted1234 - General
have also just noticed when i set the target for the bed temp maually it does not heat up? it seems to be on and off. it was working fine?? so its strangeby fredted1234 - General
Having another problem, seems to be one thing after another! ha the prints keep failing and coming off the heated bed. The printer warms up to the right temperature fine at the start. the bed temp target for the extruder is shown at the right temp. however the bed temp target is not shown from the start, the orange target line doesnt show at all? however the bed does show that its at the right teby fredted1234 - General
Hi thanks a million for the help adjusting the layer height to 0.3 has gotten rid of the problem.by fredted1234 - General
layer height is 0.4, and nozzle is 0.4mm, yes i have a fan directed at the good side, but i did try a fan at the bad side aswel and i dont think it made any difference? im using slic3r. im not to sure about some of the figures in the calculater or where to put them in slic3r Although i have just noticed that i should be printing at 0.25 layer height. thanks for your helpby fredted1234 - General
I completed my Prusa and am know trying to fine tune it, the biggest problem i have is when i print is that one side of my print come out in poor quality while the other side comes out perfect? this will happen repeatedly on the same side as you can see in the pictures. one side looks fine and the other has sagging parts that stick out. Does anyone have this problem or know how to fix it? Thanksby fredted1234 - General
got the filament from here yes i mite have a look at the current going into the steppers cheersby fredted1234 - General